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.V 



DAINTY DISHES 



K.OINFCROH : PRINTED BY TFIOMAS CONSTABLE, 
FOK 

ED.MONSTOX AND DOUGLAS. 

LONDON, HAMILTON, ADAMS, AND CO 

CAMTJRIDGK, MACMILLAN AND CO. 

DtUlLIX M'gLASHAN AND GILL. 

fJLA.SOOW, .lAMEfl MACLEHOSK. 



DAINTY DISHES 



RECEIPTS 



COLLECTED BY 



LADY HAREIETT ST. GLAIE 



/S 



\ FIFTH EDITION. 



'A- 

PHILADELPHIA 
J. B. LIPPINCOTT AXD CO. 

1866 



\p''^ 



# 




PREFACE. 

QUAND LA CORNE]f>njSE EST PLEINE ON EN CHANTE MIEUX. 

IT may seem superfluous, if not presumptuous, to 
offer to the public a book on Cookery, when 
there are already so many extant, and of which several 
are the works of really great " Artists ;" but this 
little volume presents itself without any pretension, 
as being merely a collection of receipts, many of 
which the Compiler believes to be original, and all of 
which she knows to be good. And if the jaded appe- 
tite of one sick person is stimulated, or one healthy 
appetite gratified, her object v/ill be attained, and 
any trouble she may have had in the compilation of 
the book amply rewarded. It is often very difficult 
to prevail upon cooks to follow the directions of a 
receipt ; they think they know as well, or better, and 
if they condescend to employ the ingTedients, pay no 
attention to the instructions for their proportion, or 
admixture, or the time they may take in cooking, in 
order to bring them to the right point, as the French 
say, " cuit au point:" the result is probably a nasty 
mess, in no way resembling what was originally in- 



VI PREFACE. 

tended. For this it is difficult to find a remedy ; but 
there is one when practicable — i.e. make it yourself; 
and the ^vriter hopes that the directions given are 
sufficiently explicit to enable the veriest tyro to do 
this without fear of failure, and consequent disap- 
pointment. A near relation of the Compiler's, and 
one who thoroughly understood and enjoyed good 
living, and from whom she acquired many receipts 
and much culinary lore, once said to her, — " Original 
English, or what is called plain cooking, is the worst, 
and the most ignorant, and the most extravagant, in 
the known world I" There is no doubt considerable 
truth in this ; but she is not sure that the word plain 
should not be omitted, and questions much if there 
is or ever was original English cookery. The obser- 
vation would then resolve itself into — " English 
cookery is the worst," etc. etc. ; and this she thinks 
few will be inclined to dispute. What can be more 
unpalatable than the horrible attempts at entrees, 
dignified with some high-sounding French name, made 
by the general run of English cooks ? the sodden pieces 
of meat, soaking in a mess of flour and butter, com- 
monly called roux, which, with the addition of a little 
melted glaze, forms the English cook's universal idea 
of a sauce, and which they liberally and indiscrimin- 
ately bestow on fish, flesh, and fowl — proving, indeed, 
most painfully, how very little there is in a name ; 
a theory, by the way, which the writer has often felt 



PREFACE. Vll 

inclined to dispute. Now, by what is called plain 
cooking, per se, she understands Eoasting, Broiling, 
Baking, and Boiling; and if these are well done, 
nobody can justly complain of having a bad dinner. 
How much rather would not any one prefer a well- 
broiled mutton-chop — brovm^ tender, and succulent — 
tempting you, by its appearance, to eat, even as much 
as that of the other deterred you from the attempt ! 
So with a joint of w^ell-roasted beef, or mutton, and 
well boiled or baked potatoes ; if not appetising, they 
at least satisfy your hunger without nauseating, and 
you cannot say you have dined badly, though your 
dinner has not been very recherche But there are 
occasions when even a good appetite palls, upon the 
too frequent repetition of such heavy viands, and 
when that of the delicate invalid will turn with 
loathing from such solid, though wholesome food. It 
is then, the writer hopes, reference will be made to 
this little volume of " Dainty Dishes," and that the 
good appetite may be gratified, and the delicate one 
renovated. 

DRRKr,i5ur.G, Ainil 10, 18GG. 



CONTENTS, 



PAGE 

Soups . . . ... 1 

Sauces— Cold Sauces . , . .20 

Cold Sauces to keep . . .29 

Hot Sauces . . , .32 

Fish Sauces . . . .48 

Fispi ...... 55 

Meat, Poultry, Game . . . .79 

Vegetables, Salads, etc. . , .128 

Eggs, Cheese, Entremets, etc. . . .160 

Puddings, Jellies, Pastry, etc. . . .175 

Pudding Sauces . . . .208 

Pastry ..... 209 

Baking — Bread, Biscuits, Cakes, etc. . .235 

Liqueurs, Cups, etc. . . . .252 

Pickling and Preserving . . .265 

Diflferent metliods of making Marmalade . 272 

Cookery for the Sick and Poor . . 285 

Dairy — Cheese, Butter, etc. . . .305 

Various Receipts for making Coffee . . 316 



SOUPS, 



O OUPS, properly so called, are made from stock which 
may be made some days beforehand ; and this, by 
the addition of different vegetables, or very often the 
same merely cut in another shape, or the flavour varied 
by herbs, becomes Soujpe a la Julienne, Frintaniere, Bru- 
7ioise, etc. etc. For the making of stock, and its subse- 
quent metamorphosis into these various soups, there are 
so many directions given in divers excellent French 
cookery-books that it would be superfluous to introduce 
them here : the following receipts would be therefore 
more correctly termed Broths, as they require to be 
fresh-made, and have each an individual character of 
their own. 

1. Pot au Feu. 

Put in a saucepan six lbs. of beef (bones included) 
cut into two or three pieces ; three-quarters of a lb. of 
mixed vegetables, such as onions, carrots, turnips, leeks, 
white cabbage, and celery with its leaves left on, all cut 
in good-sized pieces ; three small spoonfuls of salt, one of 
pepper, and one of sugar ; add eight pints of water ; let 
it boil gently three hours ; remove the fat ; add crusts 
of roll or slices of bread, either previously toasted or 
plain, and serve. 

B 



SOUPS. 



Beef 


. 


6 lbs. 


Vegetables, 


mixed 


fib. 


Salt 


. 


3 small spoonfuls. 


Pepper 


. 


1 


Sugar 


. 


1 


Water . ^ 


. 


8 pints. 


Bread . 




ad wl. 



To boil gently three hours. 



3. Scotch Mutton or Barley Broth. 

Soak a neck of mutton in water for an hour ; cut off 
the scrag, and put it into a stew-pot with two quarts of 
water : as soon as it boils, skim it well ; let it simmer 
for an hour and a half, then take the best end of the 
mutton, cut it in cutlets, trim off some of the fat, and 
add as many to the soup as you think proper ; skim the 
moment the fresh meat boils up, and every quarter of 
an hour after ; then add four or five carrots, the same 
number of turnips, three onions, and some celery, all 
cut, but not too small ; four large spoonfuls of barley, 
previously washed in cold water. Tlie broth should 
stew altogether three hours tw^enty minutes j before 
serving, some chopped parsley may be added. 
Neck of mutton . 1 



Carrots . 


5 


Turnips . 
Onions 


5 
3 


Celery heads . 
Barley 
Water 
To boil slowly three houi 


3 

4 large spoonfuls. 
2 quarts. 
s ; season to taste. 



sours. 3 

3. Sir Egbert Preston's Mutton Brotil 

Two pounds and a half of mutton boiled in two pints 
of water, with a little barley, very slowly for three or 
four hours ; then strain it off and remove the fat ; add 
three turnips and carrots, and two leeks or onions, cut 
very fine ; put them, with three mutton chops, into the 
broth, and boil till tender ; when nearly done, add some 
greens, previously blanched and well drained ; boil for 
about ten minutes more, season with salt, and serve. 
The vegetables should appear quite thick in the broth, 
and be cut very small. 

Mutton . . 2 J lbs. 

Water . . 2 pints. 

Turnips . . 3 

Carrots . . 3 

Leeks or onions . 2 

Mutton chops . 3 

Greens. 

Barley, say . . 3 spoonfuls. 

4. Sheep's Head Broth. 

Take a large breakfast cupful of barley, a sheep's head 
and trotters previously prepared, and, if the broth should 
be wanted stronger, a neck of mutton ; put them into a 
pot with two quarts of cold Avater ; as soon as it comes 
to the boil be careful to skim it well. Cut down some 
carrots and turnips small, a little parsley and two 
onions ; before you add the roots skim it again. Boil 
slowly till the head is quite tender ; take the pot off the 
tire and stand it near, covered closely, for a quarter of an 



4 SOUPS. 

hour before serving. The head and trotters should be 
served separately with whole carrots and turnips. 

To Prepare the Head and Trotters. 

They should be well singed, which is best done at the 
blacksmith's. Split the head down the middle of the 
skull ; take out the brains, and rub the head all over 
with them ; lay the head and trotters to soak in water 
all night ; scrape and wash well before using. 
N.B. — Sheep's head is excellent eaten cold. 



5. HOTCH POTCH. 

Take a neck or breast of mutton ; cut it into small square 
pieces, put them into a pot with two quarts of cold 
water ; when it boils sldm it well, and add the vegetables 
and a little salt and j)epper ; carrots, turnips, celery, 
young onions, and a quart of shelled peas (they should not 
be very young) ; let them boil very slowly till done. Half 
an hour before serving add a pint of young green peas. 
Almost any vegetables that are in season may be added 
to liotch potch with improvement, and it m.ay be made 
with lamb instead of mutton. It cannot be boiled too 
slowly ; eight hours is not too much. 

I^eck or breast of mutton or lamb 1 



Water . 
Old peas . 
Young peas 
Carrots 


2 quarts. 
. . 1 „ 
1 pint. 
6 


Turnips 
Celery 
Onions, young . 


6 
3 

7 



sours. 



6. Clear or English Mutton Broth. 

Take a neck of mutton ; cut off it as many chops as you 
wish to serve in the broth ; put the remainder into a pan 
with carrots and turnips, stir it to prevent its getting 
thick, and skim carefully ; let it boil four hours, then 
strain it through a sieve, and add the cutlets and carrots 
and turnips cut into dice or any shape you fancy, and 
boil till they are tender ; season with pepper and salt. 
A little raw parsley chopped very fine may be added 
just before serving. 

7. Beef Broth, or Broth a la Mode. 

Put into a soup-pot twelve lbs. of the sticldng piece of 
beef from a young ox, with the kernels and sweetbreads ; 
pour on sufficient cold water to cover the meat ; set the 
pot over a quick fire, and carefully attend to the scum 
rising, so that it may all be removed before it can boil 
into the broth. After the first scum is removed, imme- 
diately throw in some cold water, which will cause more 
to rise. When this is removed, place the pot by the side 
of a stove to boil slowly for four hours ; then strain the 
broth through a napldn, which should be kept for the 
purpose ; take care of the kernels and sweetbreads, which 
you return to the broth, together with four carrots and 
turnips, a head of celery and two onions ; these should 
be cut in good-sized pieces with a round cutter. Con- 
tinue boiling the broth till the vegetables are quite 
tender; season and serve. Be careful to remove any fat 
that may rise in the second boiling. 



SOUPS. 



Sticking piece 


of beef 12 lbs. 


Carrots . 


4 


Turnips . 


4 


Celery . 


1 


Onions 


2 


Salt. 




To boil foui 


' or five hours. 



8. Cock-a-Leekie. 

Truss a cock as for boiling, put it into a stew-pan with a 
piece of lean beef, about 4 lbs. ; two dozen of leeks cut in 
pieces about an inch long, rejecting the coarser green 
part ; a little pepper and salt, and five quarts of water. 
Cover the stew-pan up closely and allow its contents to 
stew slowly four hours ; then place the cock in a tureen ; 
remove the beef, and pour the soup and leeks over it, and 
serve. 

Cock . . 1 



Beef . 




4 lbs. 


Leeks . 




2 doz. 


Pepper 




1 spoonful. 


Salt . 




1 


Water . 




5 quarts. 


To 


boil 


four hours. 



9. Another Cock-a-Leekie. 

Put four lbs. of beef and an old fowl in a gallon of water, 
and when it boils throw in a good quantity of sliced 
leeks with plenty of the tender green part left on, a 
teaspoonful of ground pepper, and half a one of salt. 
Let all boil for four hours, then put in half a lb. of prunes, 



SOUPS. 7 

and let it boil an hour longer ; take out the meat and 
fowl ; cut off some of the best parts of the white meat 
from the breast of the fowl, and add it to the soup ; the 
prunes should be left in. The leeks are improved by 
being soaked two hours in cold water before they are 
used. This is an excellent receipt. 

Beef . . 4 lbs. 



Fowl . 


'± 1U». 

1 


Water . 


1 gallon. 


Leeks . 


4 dozen. 


Prunes . 


Jib. 


Pepper . 


1 spoonful 


Salt 


. J „ 



To boil five hours. 



10. Friar's Chicken, Lie or thick. 

Take a knuckle of veal, two carrots, two turnips, two or 
three onions, and a few sweet herbs ; boil^ all these 
together to a good stock and strain it. Have ready a 
pair of chickens boiled tender and cut in pieces, a quart 
of cream and six yolks of eggs beaten together ; add these 
to the broth and heat them up together, and send it to 
table. Some like a little minced parsley added just before 
servin.s:. 

' ^ 1 

2 i 

I \ 

I 

4 sprigs. J 
1 quart. 
6 



Knuckle of veal 
Turnips . 
Carrots . 
Onions . 
Sweet herbs . 
Cream . 
Yolks of eggs 
Chickens 



These ingredients 
are removed 



8 SOUPS. 

11. Friar's Chicken, clear. 

Take two or three chickens cut in quarters, as for a 
fricassee, and a small piece of lean beef; put them in four 
quarts of boiling water ; when nearly done enough, w^hich 
will be in about two hours, add some finely-minced 
parsley. Do not leave it on the fire more than ten 
minutes after this ; the minute before serving stir in 
quickly two eggs previously well beaten together. Atten- 
tion should be paid to skimming, and it is more delicate 
if the skins of the chickens are removed. 
Chickens ... 3 



Lean beef . 
Water 
Minced parsley 

Eo:.2:s 



2 lbs. 
4 quarts. 
Quant, siiff. 
2 



To be boiled 2^ hours ; seasoned to taste. 

12. Knuckle of Veal and Eice Soup. 

To a knuckle of veal well scalded add three quarts of veal 
stock, three ounces of rice, a blade of mace, and a sprig 
of thjrme ; when it has boiled two hours and a half put 
into it one onion and two heads of celery cut fine ; let 
it boil half an hour longer ; season with salt, take out 
the large bones, and serve. A fowl and rice may be 
done in the same way, but will not take so lon^ 



"O* 



13. Potato Soup. 

Grate off the skin of as many potatoes as will make the 
quantity of soup required, and which will partly de^^end 
upon their size, they should be of a mealy kind ; wash 



SOUPS. 9 

tliem well in tepid water, add them to your stock pre- 
vionsly prepared from roast beef bones ; four or five 
onions, and some salt and pepper. Let it simmer very 
slowly till tlie potatoes are quite dissolved. 

14. Another Potato Soup. 

Cut a breast of mutton into small square pieces ; put it 
on to boil ^vith some good stock ; let it stew gently, 
skimming it meanwhile carefully, for two hours ; then 
add two dozen of potatoes peeled and washed (they 
should not be large ones), and two dozen button onions, 
or five large ones sliced. Season with salt and pepper, 
and stew slowly till the potatoes are nearly dissolved. 

Breast of mutton 1 

Potatoes . , 2 doz. 

Onions . . 5 large or two dozen buttons. 

Salt and pepper. 

To stew three or four hours. 



15. Hare Soup 

Should be made with a perfectly fresh hare. When 
skinned, take care to save all the blood. If a larger 
quantity of soup is required, or it is wished very strong, 
take two fresh hares, but on no account use any other 
meat. Cut the hare in pieces, and put into a dish with 
the quantity of water required for your soup. Let it 
stand an hour ; then add the blood of the hare ; strain 
it through a sieve into the soup-pot, and put all on the 
fire ; stir it constantly till it boils, to prevent its curd- 
ling, and skim it a little ; then put in a carrot, a piece of 



10 SOUPS. 

celery, two whole onions, and an ounce of black pepper 
tied up in a bit of muslin ; a buncli of herbs, salt, and a 
little chopped onion. Boil it slow for three hours ; take 
it off an hour before dinner ; strain it through a sieve ; 
take out the onions, carrot, pepper, etc., and put in some 
of the best pieces of the hare which you had previously 
kept back, cut as for jugged hare ; return it to the sauce- 
pan, and let it boil. Take a tablespoonful of ground 
rice, and, shortly before serving, stir it well into the soup; 
continue stirring till it is removed from the fire. 



Hares 


1 cr 2 


Carrot 


1 


Celery 


1 


Onions 


3 


Pepper 


1 oz. 


A bunch of herbs. 




Salt to taste. 




Ground rice 


1 tablespoonful. 



To stew four hours. 

16. Sportsman's Broth. 
Take a grouse, a blackcock, a ptarmigan, a woodcock, 
and any other game you have ; cut them in small joints, 
reserving some of the best pieces ; put them into a pot 
with water and plenty of vegetables whole. Let it stew 
very slowly four or five hours ; then take the best pieces, 
season them and toss them in a httle flour ; brown them 
over a very quick fire, and add them to the strained stock, 
with two dozen very small onions, two heads of celery 
sliced, and half a white cabbage shred fine ; to stew 
slowly till tender. Half an hour before serving, add six 
potatoes cut in slices. This is excellent. 



sours. 1 1 

17. MooRFOWL Soup. 

Remove the backs of six moorfowl ; cut tlie best parts of 
the legs, wings, and breast from four of the birds ; if you 
have any pieces of pheasant or partridge, you can add 
them. Stew them till quite tender, then add about three 
pints of veal stock, and set it on to boil very slowly for 
one hour. Strain it through a tammy, and skim the 
fat off as clean as possible ; remove all but the best pieces 
of moorfowl ; give one boil more, and skim it again ; add 
a small lump of sugar and a glass of white wine. 

1 8. Mulligatawny. 

Take a good veal stock, flavoured with carrots, turnips, 
onions, celery, and a little white pepper ; strain it through 
a fine sieve ; be particular in removing the scum when it 
.first boils up. Then take two chickens, or the best part 
of three rabbits ; put them into a stew-pan with a little 
butter ; set it over a slow fire to stew till they become 
tender : take them out and wash them clean in warm 
water. In another stew-pan put a little butter and flour ; 
stir it over a slow fire for five minutes, then add your 
veal stock ; let it boil up for a quarter of an hour ; now 
put in your chickens or rabbits, cut as for fricassee ; 
curry powder, the quantity of which you must regulate 
according to taste ; two large spoonfuls of rice, a little 
cayenne pepper, and a little salt. Let it boil till the rice 
is tender ; skim it clean ; and before serving stir in care- 
fully a pmt of good cream. 

19. Soup 1 la FLA^LV^^)E. 
Take two quarts of good veal stock, put in a small hand- 



1 2 SOUPS. 

ful of sliced spinach and sorrel, and let it boil till this 
is tender ; season it with salt, and while it is boiling, but 
about two minutes before serving, stir into it a pint 
of cream previously well mixed with the yolks of six 



20. Turnip Soup. 

Slice six yellow turnips, two large onions, a carrot, and a 
piece of celery; stew them till tender in a quarter of 
a pound of butter, then add a little boiling soup, and 
let it boil till the vegetables are thoroughly done; rub 
them through a sieve, return them to the stew-pan, and 
add as much soup as you require for your tureen ; let it 
boil ; beat up the yolks of six eggs in a pint of cream, 
and just before serving stir it into the soup. Season with 
white pepper and salt. 

21. POTAGE 1 LA PuRlilE DE LeNTILLES. 

Take six heads of celery, three onions, two turnips, and 
four carrots ; put them into a stew-pan with one pound 
of lentils, a large slice of ham, and a quarter of a pound 
of butter; set it upon a stove to stew slowly for one hour, 
then add two quarts of soup and let it stew for two hours ; 
strain the soup into a dish, and put the vegetables and 
lentils into a mortar and pound them ; then iiib through 
a sieve with a little of the broth by means of a wooden 
spoon ; put it again into the stew-pan with a little salt 
and the crust of a French roll toasted, and let it simmer 
for a quarter of an hour longer, and serve. It may be 
made without the French roll, and fried bread served 
with it. Wlien celery cannot be procured, the seed, as a 
substitute, is almost as good, the same with chervil. 



sours. 13 

22. White Celery Soup. 

Tvro quarts of veal stock boiled with six heads of celery 
till done very tender ; strain it and add six more heads 
of celery cut very fine, and two ounces of hutter mixed 
with three tablespoonfuls of flour. Stew till the celery 
is quite tender, and just before removing from the fire 
add half a pint of good cream previously scalded. Season 
with salt, a small piece of sugar, and a very little cayenne. 

23. Puree of Green Peas. 

Take three pints of green peas, two turnips, two onions, 
a small bunch of mint, and one head of celery cut in 
pieces, and put them into a stew-pan with two ounces of 
butter and one quart of soup ; let them stew till tender 
enough to rub through a tammy; when this is done add 
two quarts more soup. Season with salt and a small 
piece of sugar ; let it come to the boil, and add one tea- 
cupful of spinach juice to make it a fine green colour. 

Spinach Juice for Greening. 

Pound some spinach in a mortar, squeeze it through a 
tammy or sieve ; put the juice in a stew-pan on the fire 
till it curdles ; then pour the water ofi" through a fine 
lawn sieve, and rub the green residue through with a 
little broth. 

24. Soup Maigre. 

Put three pints of green peas in a gallon of water, a 
bunch of sweet herbs, a French roll, a blade of mace, a 
few cloves, and some pepper. Let these boil till it comes 
to three quarts ; strain it, and put in a pint of young pea ;. 



14 SOUPS. 

Then take some lettuces, some parsley, young leeks, and 
celery ; chop them small and fry them in brown butter, 
drain them, and add them to your soup. A small piece 
of bacon may be used to season it. 

25. White Soup Maigre. 

• 

Take a large handful of chervil, four heads of celery, two 
onions, three lettuces, a little sorrel, thyme, and tarragon ; 
boil these in a quart of water upon the stove till quite 
stewed down. About a quarter of an hour before dinner 
take it off and strain it from the herbs, and let it stand 
till it is cool ; then add to it a pint of good cream, 
thickened with the jolks of three eggs ; stir it well in, 
and put it on the fire to heat, but do not let it boil. 
Green peas or asparagus, sorrel or rice, may be added. 

26. Another Soup Maigre. 

Six cucumbers, four lettuces, two onions, a good handful 
of spinach, a sprig of mint, and a pint of shelled peas, a 
small piece of ham, and a quarter of a pound of butter; put 
these into two quarts of water and boil for four hours, and 
then pass it all through a sieve. When done, put in a 
pint of green peas well boiled, and a few slices of cucum- 
ber or any other vegetable you like. The vegetables 
should be well washed, and the cucumbers and lettuces 
cut before being put in. 



SOUPS. 15 

FISH SOUPS. 
27. Stock for Brown or White Fish Soup. 

Take a pound of skate, four or five flounders, and two 
pounds of eels ; clean them well, and cut them into pieces ; 
cover them with water, and season with mace, pepper, 
salt, an onion stuck with cloves, a head of celery, two 
parsley roots sliced, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Simmer 
all together in a stew-pan closely covered for an hour and 
a half, then strain it oif for use. If for brown soup, first 
fry the fish brown in butter, and then proceed as above. 
It ^dll not keep more than two or three days, and is best 
used quite fresh. 

28. Salmon Soup. 

Take a fowl or an equivalent piece of veal, a piece of lean 
ham, a few anchovies, and half a pound of salmon ; put 
them all together in a stew-pan, with a piece of fresh butter, 
on the fire ; let it stew for half an hour, taking care it 
does not brown ; add three quarts of water, and skim 
well ; add to it a head of celery, two or three onions, a 
little parsley, two or three cloves, and a little allspice and 
white pepper ; let it boil an hour and a half, and strain 
it through a lawn sieve ; then take a pan with a bit of 
butter and a spoonful of flour, stir them together tiU it 
comes to a light brown, then add the stock and stir till 
it boils ; take care and skim off all the butter ; now stir 
in a piece of salmon, previously boiled, pounded, and 
rubbed through a tammy with a little cream, and if you 
have it, some lobster spawn, which gives it a fine colour. 
Have ready a slice of salmon, boiled quick in water ; 



1 6 SOUPS. 

cut it in .small pieces, and add it to the soup before you 
serve it up. 

29. Soup a la Melton Mowbray. 

Fillet two middling-sized haddocks with the skin on ; lay 
them on a buttered saute-pan on which you have previously 
sprinkled six finely-chopped eschalots, a tablespoonful of 
minced parsley, and a pinch of finely-powdered mace. 
Take the heads, bones, and trimmings, and set them in a 
saucepan over the fire for a few minutes, and then add 
two quarts of good stock ; simmer for half an hour. 
Blanch and beard fifty oysters ; add the liquor to the 
stock, and the oysters to the fillets ; thicken the soup with 
roux, and, when well skimmed and clarified, add it to the 
fillets previously slightly fried. Let it boil five minutes ; 
add half a pint of Madeira or dry sherry, the juice of 
half a lemon, and season with cayenne to taste. When 
haddocks cannot be procured, soles or whitings do as 
well. It is also excellent made with cod-sounds, well 
soaked and blanched, instead of fillets of fish, and cod-fish 
used for the stock. 

30. Cod's-Head Soup. 

Make half a gallon of strong stock as follows : — Take two 
pounds of beef, half a knuckle of veal, and a pound and 
a half of lean ham, two large onions stewed in butter, 
with a little gravy to keep them from turning brown. 
Let it boil up, then add a bunch of sweet herbs, mar- 
joram, thyme, and basil, two bay-leaves, a small handful 
of parsley, and the peel of half a lemon. Let it stew 
gently till the herbs are tender, then pass it through a 
tammy. Now take half a bottle of white wine, the eighth 



sours. 1 7 

of an ounce of cloves, and the same quantity of black 
pepper, the eighth of a pound of anchovies, and a quarter 
of a pint of mushroom ketchup ; stew all these together 
slowly for a quarter of an hour, strain it, and add the 
liquor to the stock. Season with a little cayenne pepper 
and salt, and thicken with a little roux. Have ready a 
large cod's head stewed in a pan with a little stock till 
all the meat comes from the bones. Add this fish and 
the gravy it was stewed in to your soup, and let it boil 
up, with forced-meat balls and little eggs thus prepared : — 
Take half a pound of cod, six large oysters, three 
anchovies, and a quarter of a pound of suet ; season 
highly ; add a few bread crumbs and one egg, and make 
into balls. The little eggs are made by beating three 
hard-boiled yolks of eggs in a mortar to a paste with 
the yolk of one raw egg. Eoll into small balls, and throw 
them into boiling water for two minutes. 

31. Scotch Fish Soup. 

Take four haddocks, skin them, and take out all the 
bones ; cut them into pieces about two inches long ; then 
put the heads, skins, and bones, after being well washed, 
into four cjuarts of good beef-stock, with three onions, 
and let it boil for an hour ; then strain the soup into a 
clean saucepan, into which put two onions, chopped very 
small, a turnip and a carrot, which latter are to be taken 
out. Let it boil five minutes, then put in your pieces of 
fish with a handful of minced parsley, and let it boil 
eight minutes. Season with pepper and salt. Some add 
two tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, but the com- 
piler disapproves of it. 



18 sours. 

32. A Marseilles Eeceipt for Bouillabaise. 

Almost any sort of fish may be used in making bouil- 
labaise, and the more kinds the better. Those generally 
used, because caught in the Mediterranean, are whitings, 
red mullets, soles, gurnet, turbot, lobsters, and cray-fish. 
Slice two large onions, place them in a wide but deep 
stew-pan made of thin metal ; add four or five spoonfuls 
of the best ohve oil. Fry the onions of a pale brown 
colour. Next place the fish, previously washed and cut 
in small pieces, in the pan, and cover them with warm 
water, but not more than equals the depth of the con- 
tents ; add salt in moderation, half a bay leaf, and the 
flesh of half a lemon without rind or pips, two tomatoes 
cut in dice and the seeds removed, a small tumbler of 
light white wine, a few peppercorns, and four cloves of 
garlic. Set it on a very hot stove, and let it boil for 
twelve minutes. By this time the liquor should be 
reduced to a third of its original quantity ; add a small 
pinch of saffron, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and 
allow it to boil a minute longer ; taste and correct the 
seasoning if required. Have ready your tureen or deep 
dish with two dozen slices of light French roll or bread, 
cut half an inch thick, laid in the bottom ; pour some of 
the soup over, and turn the bread, so that it may be 
thoroughly soaked ; then pour in the remainder, keeping 
back the inferior parts of the fish, and serve very hot. 

This is sometimes varied by adding a liason made 
of the yolks of six or seven eggs, added to some 
of the soup, which is to be stirred quickly over the fire 
till it comes to the consistency of custard, and then 
poured over the slices of bread. 



SOUPS. 19 

33. BOUILLABAISE A l'AnGLAISE. 

As the preceding receipt is often considered too strong for 
the English palate, this is in a milder form ; it is excellent, 
and exceedingly nourishing and wholesome for an invalid. 
Take cod, mullet, whiting, turbot, or any other fish 
you like ; cut them cross ways, in pieces of from about 
two ounces to a quarter of a pound each. Slice two 
good-sized onions, place them in a stew-pan large enough 
to contain all the fish at the bottom, — a shallow pan is 
best. Add two tablespoonfuls of olive-oil ; fry the onions 
a light brown ; put in the fish with as much warm water 
as will cover them well, a teaspoonful of salt, half a one 
of pepper, half a bay leaf, the flesh of half a peeled lemon 
cut in dice, two tomatoes cut in slices and their seeds 
removed, two small glasses of sherry or other white 
wine, a few peppercorns, and half a clove of garlic. Set 
on a fierce fire, and boil very fast for twelve minutes, or till 
the liquor is reduced to one-third. Then add a tablespoon- 
ful of chopped parsley, let it boil one minute longer, and 
pour it into a deep dish over slices of bread the same 
as the other. This is also very good made with all sorts 
of fresh-water fish, and the garlic may be entirely 
omitted. 

34. Oyster Soup. 

Take eighty oysters and their liquor; place them in a pan 
with salt, cayenne pepper, and a teaspoonful of chopped 
chervil ; when boiling add three yolks of eggs beat up in 
half a pint of cream, and serve. This is enough for five 
persons. If the oysters have not sufficient liquor, a little 
water and salt may be added, and parsley may be used, 
if prefen-ed, instead of chervil. 



SAUCES. 



COLD SAUCES. 

35. Balbirnie Sauce for Cold Pheasant. 

A SMALL sliallot chopped as fine as possible, one 
spoonful of mustard, one tablespoonful of oil. 
Mix thoroughly and add a little salt, one tablespoonful 
of vinegar, and two of ketchup. This is excellent. 

36. Sauce Piquante. 

One large spoonful of mustard, one of sugar, worked 
smooth together with a few drops of olive-oil, one table- 
spoonful of shallot or tarragon vinegar, or half a one of 
each, one of ketchup, and two of Harvey sauce. 

37. Hanoverian Sauce for Boar's Head, etc. 

The outer rind of a lemon (a Seville orange is better) cut 
in very thin small slices, one tablespoonful of pounded- 
sugar ; squeeze the juice of a lemon over the two together, 
add half a tablespoonful of mustard, two of oil, and two 
of port wine. This is an excellent sauce for wild duck. 

38. Sauce PROVENgALE. ■ 

Put into a bason two raw yolks of eggs, a good pinch of 
salt and two spoonfuls of mustard, and a teasjDoonful of 



SAUCES. 21 

tarragon vinegar. Take a spoon and beat it well and 
quickly. When it is well mixed add a few drops of com- 
mon vinegar and the same of oil ; beat them well in as 
you add them, taking care never to put in too much oil 
at a time. Continue to add till you have enough sauce, 
and have worked it quite smooth and thick ; then taste 
and season as it may require with salt, pepper, or more 
vinegar, and stir in some finely-chopped chervil, parsley, 
and tarragon. 

39. Sauce for Cold Meat or Fish. 

Shred parsley, a little shallot, and half a clove of garlic 
very fine. Rub them down iu two spoonfuls of good oil 
and five yolks of eggs well beaten ; add a little salt and 
pepper, one spoonful of mustard, two of tarragon vinegar, 
or elder if preferred, and one of white wine. Continue 
beating till of a good consistence : it takes three-quarters 
of an hour to make it well. 

40. Dutch Sauce for Cold Meat. 

Beat up the white of an egg with a little white pepper 
and salt, a dessertspoonful of minced parsley, a small 
shallot and onion, a teaspoonful of mustard, and two 
tablespoonfuls of olive-oil. Whisk it well together, and 
add a spoonful of tarragon vinegar ; grated horseradish 
may be added if liked. 

41. Sauce for Cold Game, etc. 

Rub the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs through a sieve ; 
add two tablespoonfuls of salad oil, two of tarragon 
vinegar, one of cliili, half a spoonful of walnut ket- 



TJ SxVUCES. 

fchup, and three of common vinegar, a small quantity 
of minced parsley and shallot, some pepper and salt. Add 
enough cream to make the consistence of thick custard. 

42. Sauce a la Tartars. 

Take two anchovies, wash them well ; two yolks of hard- 
boiled eggs. Mince separately some parsley, shallot, or 
onion, and tarragon. Put all into a small bowl with a 
spoonful of French mustard, one of olive-oil, and one of 
vinegar, a little pepper and salt ; beat with a wooden 
spoon till it is smooth. It is good with meat, fish, or 
game, with or without salad. 

43. Sauce Piquante. 

Pound together two hard-boiled yolks of eggs, one ounce 
grated horseradish, half an ounce of salt, a tablespoonful 
of mustard, a little minced shallot, one teaspoonful of 
celery and one of cress-seed, a small quantity of 
cayenne. Add gradually a wine glassful of oil, and two 
of tarragon, horseradish, or cress-vinegar. Set it over a 
gentle fire, and stir with a wooden spoon till it is like 
thick cream, then let it cool. 

44. Cold Sauce for Grouse, or other Game. 

Mix the yolks of two raw eggs with a spoonful of salad- 
oil very smooth ; then add three spoonfuls of vinegar, 
one of sugar, and three of finely-chopped parsley, green 
onion, and a little shallot ; add some pepper and salt. 
Cut up your game, and just before serving, pour this 
sauce over it. 



SAUCES. 23 

45. German Sauce for Boiled Beef. 

Take six ordinary sized potatoes, boil them in salt and 
water, skin them and let them cool, grate them with a 
sugar-grater ; add the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs, mix 
them well together ; then take four spoonfuls of fine olive 
oil and two of vinegar, and pass all through a hair sieve ; 
add a little finely-minced parsley. This sauce should be 
pretty thick, but if it appears too much so, more vinegar 
may be added. This is enough for a large quantity. 

46. Mustard Sauce. 

A teacupful of mustard to be put into a dish with a 
tablespoonful of sugar, one of olive-oil, and a little salt ; 
to be well mixed with the yolk of a hard-boiled egg 
rubbed down ; add as much vinegar as will make it suf- 
ficiently liquid, and strain it through a sieve. 

47. Sauce a la Tartare. 

Chop one onion, two shallots, a little parsley and tar- 
ragon, and a few capers, very fine ; two yolks of eggs 
boiled hard, rubbed down, and dissolved by a little 
drop of water. Mix all these well together, and add a 
spoonful of tarragon and one of plain vinegar ; beat it 
well with a wooden spoon, adding by degrees a spoonful 
of olive-oil and mustard to your taste. This is a very 
good receipt, and is excellent with broiled fowl, or grouse, 
or eels, or salmon, and with cold meat of all kinds. 

48. Sauce a la Eavigote. 

Take capers, burnet, chervil, tarragon, a few stalks of 
celery, and two balm leaves ; pick and v/asli them ; also 



24 SAUCES. 

two anchovies. Mince the whole very fine, add a little 
fine pepper and salt, put all into a marble mortar, and 
beat till it is thoroughly mixed. Wliile beating, add the 
yolk of a raw egg and a little olive-oil, and at intervals 
moisten it with a little white vinegar till it is of the con- 
sistence of thick cream. Mustard may be added, if liked, 
and chopped green chilis. 

49. Indian Sauce. 

Three apples, one large cucumber with the seeds taken 
out, two onions, eighteen fresh green chilis, and three 
tomatoes ; to which add one small spoonful of cayenne. 
Mince all very fine, mix well together, put in a little salt, 
and cover with vinegar. It is ready for immediate use, but 
will keep a long time, and is excellent with cold meat. 

50, PoivRADE Sauce to Keep. 

Half a pint of the best vinegar, half a pint of water, two 
large onions, half a handful of horseradish, and a little 
pounded white pepper and salt. Boil all together for a 
quarter of an hour, strain it clear, and bottle it. This 
may be added to gravy when used. 

51. Mayonnaise. 

Take three spoonfuls of sauce aHemande (see I^o. 86), 
six of aspic ; add a spoonful of tarragon vinegar, a little 
pepper and salt, and some finely-chopped herbs, such as 
tarragon, chervil, burnet, etc., or minced parsley alone. 
. Add these, and then set the sauce on the ice to freeze 
till it becomes quite stiff". This may be used with fish 
or meat. 



SAUCES. 25 

52. Sauce Remoul-Ade or Vinaigrette. 

Put into a sauce-boat a shallot, a clove of garlic, some 
parsley and green onions, all minced very fine; add a 
little pepper, a spoonful of mustard, three tablespoonfuls 
of oil, and two of vinegar. This is very good with all 
cold meats. 

53. Mayonnaise. 

Choose two very white yolks of eggs, add to them a little 
fine salt, and two teaspoonfuls of tarragon vinegar ; beat 
this quickly in a mortar or dish with a wooden spoon. 
Wlien well mixed add by degrees a wineglassful of olive- 
oil and a little more vinegar. Work it well against the 
sides of the dish, as this makes it creamy and thick. You 
may add more oil or vinegar — either elder, tarragon, or 
shallot — as your sauce makes, and a spoonful of aspic jelly. 
It must be made very quickly in a dry cool place or it 
will curdle. If you have no ice to freeze it, and wish it 
to look very white, rub in a few drops of cold water. 

54. The Saj^ie 1 la Eavigote. 

Blanch a ravigote of tarragon, scallions, and chervil for 
five or six minutes in boiling water ; let them cool, 
squeeze and pound them ; add a spoonful of mayonnaise. 
When it is well incorporated strain and mix by degrees 
with the above mayonnaise. 

55. Beurre a la MaItre d'H6tel. 

Put on a plate a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a 
quarter of a spoonful of salt and one of pepper, two of 



26 SAUCES. 

chopped parsley, the juice of a middle-sized lemon (if 
you have no lemon you can use vinegar), and a very little 
cayenne. Mix all well together and keep it in a cool place. 
This is good with kidneys, and all broiled meat and 
fish. 

5G. Anchovy Butter. 

Take six anchovies, scrape and wash them, bruise them 
on a board, and mix six ounces of fresh butter with 
them; pass through a sieve, and keep in a cold place for 
use. 

57. Pimento Butter. 

Two ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of chilis chopped 
fine, one of parsley, a piece of garlic the size of a small 
pea scraped, half a spoonful of salt, a little pepper, and 
the juice of half a lemon — all well mixed. 

58. Shallot Butter. 

A quarter of a pound of butter, a teaspoonful of chopped 
shallot, a little cayenne, salt, and pepper, half a teaspoon- 
ful of mustard, and the juice of a lemon ; mix all well 
together. These butters are all good for cold or broiled 
meats and salads. 

59. Beurre de Montpellier. 

Take a handful of chervil, tan-agon, burnet, and green 
onions or chives ; wash them very clean and blanch them 
in boiling water with a handful of salt, which keeps them 
green ; let them boil six minutes, and put them into cold 
water to cool; have ready eight hard-boiled yolks of eggs; 
drain the herbs, and squeeze all the water out of them ; 



SAUCES. 2 / 

put them into a mortar, and pound them to a pulp ; add 
the yolks of eggs, ten anchovies (washed and boned), two 
spoonfuls of capers, a very little bit of garlic (this may be 
omitted if not liked), some salt, a little cayenne, and a 
small quantity of mustard. Pound all this together till 
quite smooth, then add half a pound of very fresh butter, 
a spoonful of olive -oil, and one of elder or tarragon 
vinegar. Taste if it requires more seasoning, and rub it 
all through a sieve. None of the herbs should predomi- 
nate ; and if not green enough, add some spinach or 
parsley juice. Put it on the ice, and use it for anything 
cold, such as salads of fish, game, etc. 

To make the greening of spinach or parsley, pick and 
wash two large handfuls of spinach or parsley ; pound 
them in a mortar ; squeeze them through a tammy, and 
pour all the juice into a small stew-pan ; set it on the fire, 
but take care it does not boil ; and when it just begins 
to curdle, strain it through a silk sieve, and use as re- 
quired. 

60. Salad Sauce. 

Tlie yolks of three raw fresh eggs, a teaspoonful of salt, 
and the same quantity of mustard ; beat it well together 
one minute, then add and mix, by little at a time, three 
tablespoonfuls of the finest olive-oil, and one of the best 
vinegar. 

61. Salad Sauce. 

Yolks of two hard-boiled eggs v/ell bruised, two table- 
spoonfuls of oil well mixed, the same of vinegar, a tea- 
spoonful of chili vinegar, and the same of salt and 
mustard. 



28 SAUCES. 



62. Balbirnie Salad Sauce. 

Tv70 eggs boiled twenty-five minutes and well bruised, 
two spoonfuls of salt, two yolks of raw fresh eggs, eight 
tablespoonfuls of oil, mixed slowly in a cup with a wooden 
spoon. Wlien half the oil is mixed in, a little at a 
time, add half a teaspoonful of mustard, and then the 
remainder of the oil — by so doing it will become as thick 
as a paste ; then add two tablespoonfuls of French tarra- 
gon vinegar, and mix well. This is excellent to eat with 
beetroot. 

63. German Salad Sauce. 

Six tablespoonfuls of oil, and eight of the best vinegar, 
two of tarragon vinegar, and one of chili, and a small 
quantity of cayenne pepper ; stir together and mix well 
with the salad. The red wine vinegar of Germany and 
olive-oil, mixed in the proportion of one tablespoonful 
of vinegar to two of oil, and a little salt and pepper, 
makes the best possible summer salad sauce. 



64. Salad Sauce. 

The yolk of one hard-boiled egg mixed with one raw one 
and a little water, a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful 
of mixed cayenne and black pepper, and one of mustard, 
a tablespoonful of vinegar, one of anchovy sauce, and five 
of either oil or thick cream. Cream may generally be 
substituted for oil in salad sauces. 



SAUCES. 29 

COLD SAUCES TO KEEP. 

65. A USEFUL Sauce for Cold Meat, etc. 

Half a pint of mushroom ketchup, three anchovies, a 
gill of walnut ketchup, four fresh green chilis, two shallots 
or cloves of garlic — pound them together ; if you have 
no chilis, use a large pinch of cayenne ; mix it well, 
bottle, and stop it close. 

66. A Chutnee Sauce. 

Pulp five or six roasted apples, colour them with turmeric 
and beetroot juice till they are the colour of a tomato, 
add a tablespoonful of chili vinegar, a clove of garlic, a 
shallot, a small quantity of cayenne and salt ; simmer 
gently for some time. It ought to be of .the consistency 
of thick cream. When cool, put into half-pint bottles, 
and cork it down. 

67. A GOOD Sauce. 

Haricots one quart, vinegar and water of each half a 
pint, three heaped spoonfuls of grated horseradish, a 
sliced lemon, a few chilis, twenty cloves, a few bits of 
nutmeg; simmer gently till the water is evaporated. 
When cool, add half a pint of walnut or mushroom ketchup, 
and the same of essence of anchovy. 

68. Fish Sauce to Keep. 

Dissolve six anchovies in a glass of port wine, bruise six 
shallots and boil them in a quart of walnut ketchup, 



30 SAUCES. 

with a few cloves, a couple of blades of mace, and some 
whole pepper, for about half an hour ; let it cool, mix in 
the anchovies, add half a pint of port wine. 

69. Another. 

Port wine one bottle ; sherry, walnut, and mushroom 
ketchups, of each half a bottle ; the juice of four small 
Seville oranges ; shallot and horseradish, of each haK" a 
pound; two ounces of made mustard, and a quarter of an 
ounce of cayenne. This is an excellent sauce. 

70. Sauce " Yolage." 

Pound well in a mortar six anchovies, six shallots, four 
cloves of garlic, half an ounce of cayenne pepper, and 
add one pint of vinegar. Put altogether into a jar, let 
it stand ten days, strain it through muslin, and bottle 
for use. It is much improved by keeping. 

71. Gunner's Delight. 

Half a pound of sharp apples, half a pound of onions, 
both raw, to be chopped fine and well mixed ; add two 
or three chilis, cover the whole entirely with best white 
vinegar. 

72. Camp Vinegar. 

One head of garlic cut in slices, half an ounce of cayenne, 
a large glass of soy, one of mushroom or walnut ketchup, 
a pint of the best vinegar, and a little spirit of cochi- 
neal to give it a fine colour. Shake it often for five or 
six weeks ; filter, and bottle it in small bottles. 



SAUCES. 31 



73. Shallot Vinegar. 

Split six or eight shallots, put them into a quart bottle, 
and fill it up with the best vinegar, stop it close, and in 
a month it will be fit for use. 

74. Tarragon Vinegar. 

Fill a wide-mouthed bottle with fresh-gathered tarragon 
leaves ; they are best between Midsummer and Michael- 
mas, just before flowering, and should be gathered on a 
dry day. Pick the leaves off the stalks and dry them a 
little before the fire, cover them with the best vinegar ] 
let them steep fourteen days, then strain, bottle, and 
cork it well ; keep it in a dry place. Elderflower, 
chervil, basil, burnet, and many other herbs, may be 
made to flavour vinegar in the same way. 

75. An excellent Vinegar for Salads. 

Take tarragon, savory, chives, and shallots, each three 
ounces; a handful of the tops of mint and balm, all dried 
and pounded. Put them into a wide-mouthed bottle with 
a gallon of the best vinegar, cork it close, set it in the 
sun, and in a fortnight strain it off and squeeze the herbs. 
Let it stand to settle, then strain through a filtering-bag 
and bottle it. 

76. Mushroom Ketchup. 

Chop two pecks of mushrooms small, add a pound of 
salt ; let it stand four days, then strain and pass it through 
a cloth ; let the liquor settle and pour it off into a stew- 
pan ; add half an ounce of allspice, the same of whole 



32 SAUCES. 

pepper, and a piece of ginger. Boil all together for half 
an hour ; when cold strain and bottle. 

77. Tomato Ketchup. 

Half a bushel of tomatoes boiled till they are soft ; rub 
them through a fine hair sieve, and add a quarter of a 
gallon of the best vinegar, half a pint of salt, one ounce 
of cloves, one of cayenne pepper, two ounces of allspice, 
two heads of garhc skinned and separated. Mix all to- 
gether, and boil three hours, or until the quantity is re- 
duced one half. Bottle without straining. 

78. A GOOD Sauce. 

Black pepper, pounded allspice, and salt, of each an ounce ; 
half an ounce of minced shallot, one pint of mushroom 
ketchup, a tablespoonful of port wine, and a teaspoon- 
ful of chili vinegar. Set the bottle for twenty-four hours 
in 90° of heat ; let it stand for a week, then strain and 
bottle it. It is excellent added to gravy for cutlets. 



HOT SAUCES. 

Eoux, OR Thickening for Sauces. 

This is of two kinds, brown and white, and is the founda- 
tion of many sauces, and although very simple requires 
the greatest attention in making, and should always be 
kept in readiness for use. 



SAUCES. 33 



9. Brown Eoux. 



Melt some butter very slowly, stir into it browned flour — 
which is easily made by laying a quantity of fine flour on 
a dish before the fire, or in a moderate oven, till it is of 
a fine even brown, not too dark ; add as much to the 
butter as will make it the thickness of paste, stirring 
well with a wooden spoon for fifteen or twenty minutes 
till it is of a yellomsh brown colour. This must be done 
gradually, with care and patience ; if the fire is too hot it 
will become bitter and spoil everything it is put into ; 
when cold it should be thick enough to cut with a knife. 
It will keep a fortnight. 

80. AYhite Eoux. 

Melt some good fresh butter slowly and stir into it the 
best sifted flour till like a thin firm paste ; stir it well 
Over a slow fire for a quarter of an hour, taking care it 
does not brown. This is used for thickening white 
sauces. Pour it into jars to keep for use. 

81. Clear Gravy of Veal for Sauces. 

Lay in the bottom of a stew a small slice of fat bacon ; on 
that place four pounds of leg of veal, a slice of raw ham, 
two onions, two carrots, and some parsley ; add three 
spoonfuls of stock, cover it close, set it upon a slow fire, 
till it becomes dry and brown. Take the greatest care it 
does not burn, and move the pan round frequently that 
it may not colour more in one part than another. Pour 
in four quarts of stock, and let it simmer for half an 
hour, and strain through a lawn sieve. It should be a 
fine amber colour, and as clear as possible. 



34 SAUCES. 

82. Brown Gravy for Sauces. 

Cut eight pounds of the lean part of a knuckle of veal 
into small pieces, with two pounds of lean ham, and if 
you have an old fowl you may add it. Put all in a stew- 
pan, with one ounce of butter, three onions, two carrots, 
eight mushrooms, one head of celery, one parsnip, a blade 
of mace, and a quarter of a pint of water or stock. Let 
it stew slowly, with the cover on the pan, till it catches 
at the 'bottom, then add four quarts more water or stock, 
let it boil gently, and strain it. 

83. CuLLis, OR Brown Sauce. 

Put six pounds of lean veal, cut in slices, and two 
pounds of raw lean ham into a stew-pan, with two 
ounces of butter, a handful of chopped mushrooms, 
three onions, one carrot, a bunch of sweet herbs, the 
rind of a lemon, and a teaspoonful of mixed allspice, 
clove, and mace. Let it just broAvn at the bottom, then 
add four quarts of good brown gravy, and let it boil 
three or four hours ; strain it off, thicken it with brown 
roux, and boil it well for ten minutes, stirring all the 
time, then pass it through a tammy. 

84. Bechamel, or White Sauce. 

Chop two pounds of veal and one pound of ham in 
small pieces, a dozen of mushrooms and two onions 
sliced, four cloves, two blades of mace, a sprig of thyme 
and marjoram, and a quarter of a pound of butter ; add 
three pints of white gravy, and let all stew gently one 
hour and a half. Mix some of the gravy with two tea- 



SAUCES. 3J 

cupfuls of flour, and add it to a quart of cream. Put this 
into your stock, let it boil a quarter of an hour, stirring 
it well that it may not burn at the bottom ; strain, and 
season with salt. 

85. Sauce Tournee 

Is made of the same ingredients, and in the same pro- 
portion, as cuUis. When boiled three hours, strain it ; add 
half a pound of butter and two teacupfuls of flour ; boil 
well together for half an hour, stirring that it may not 
brown. This sauce is used in fish or vegetable salads. 

86. Sauce Alleslande. 

Put a little minced ham into a stew-pan with a few trim- 
mings of poultry either dressed or raw, tlu-ee shallots, 
half a small clove of garhc, a bay leaf, two tarragon 
leaves, and a few spoonfuls of stock. Let them simmer for 
half an hour, strain it off", and add some cullis ; squeeze 
in a lemon. Season to taste mth pepper, salt, cayenne, 
and sugar. 

The above are all stock sauces, the foundation for 
others. 

87. Sauce Yeloute. 

Heat in melted butter one pound of veal and any bits 
of fowl you may have, together with a dozen good-sized 
mushrooms : do not let them brown ; then put them into 
a saucepan, with two carrots and onions, a large table- 
spoonfal of flour, salt, pepper, a little mixed spice, and 
as much veal gravy as will cover them. Let it boil up, 
skim off the fat, and let it simmer for an hour and a 
half ; strain, and keep it covered for use. 



36 SAUCES. 



88. Sauce a l'Espagn6le. 

Put about a pint of cullis in a stew-pan, with a largish 
glass of white wine, the same of good broth, a bunch of 
parsley, a few small onions, a clove of garlic, two cloves, 
a bay leaf, a small pinch of coriander-seeds, an onion, a 
carrot, and a parsnip cut in slices ; add two spoonfuls 
of oil. Boil for two hours over a very gentle fire, remove 
the grease, and pass through a sieve ; season with salt 
and whole pepper. This sauce is good with all sorts 
of meat. 

89. White Sauce for Chicken, Veal, or 
Vegetables. 

To a pint of good veal grav}^ add a spoonful of lemon- 
juice, half an anchovy, a teaspoonful of mushroom- 
powder, a few button mushrooms, potted or fresh. Give 
them a gentle boil, then put in half a pint of cream and 
the yolks of two eggs beaten very smooth. Shake it over 
the fire, after the cream and eggs are added, but do not 
let it boil, as it would curdle the cream. 

90. HAiki Sauce. 

When a ham is nearly done, pick the meat that is left 
clean from the bone, leaving out any part that does not 
appear good ; beat the meat and the bone to a mash 
with a rolling-pin ; put it into a saucepan with three 
spoonfuls of gravy, set it over a slow fire, and stir it all 
the time or it will stick to the bottom. Wlien it has 
been on about half an hour, add to it a small bundle of 
sweet herbs, some pepper, and half a pint of brown 



SAUCES. 37 

gravy ; cover it up, and let it stew over a gentle fire. 
WTien it has a good flavour of the herbs, strain it oflf. 
A little of tliis improves most gravies and sauces. 

91. Sauce Hachee. 

Take a large taLlespoonful of chopped onions, the same 
of parsley, and a little gravy. Boil them together five 
minutes, then add a tablespoonful of minced pickled 
cucumbers, another of boiled carrots choj)ped small, and 
a third of capers ; add half a pint of cullis. Boil 
all together for a few minutes, season with salt, a 
little sugar, and the juice of half a lemon. Good for 
cutlets, etc. 

92. Sauce Poulette. 

Beat up six yolks of eggs with two spoonfuls of cream, 
the juice of one lemon, and half a pint of bechamel or 
white sauce. Heat all together, add some shred sorrel ; 
season with salt and a little cayenne. Good for boiled 
fowls and chickens. 

93. Sauce Piquante. 

Boil a tablespoonful of chopped onion, parsley, and 
mushroom together in a little butter for five minutes ; 
add a quarter of a pint of cullis, two tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar, and season with salt and cayenne. Let it boil 
one minute, and serve with cutlets, broiled fowl, etc. 

94. Sauce a la Dusselle. 

Put a little butter into a stew-pan Avith an equal quantity 
of rasped bacon, some fine herbs, parsley, a little shallot. 



38 SAUCES. 

and some mushrooms, all minced fine ; season with pepper 
and salt, and stew over a slow fire. Beat the yolks of 
four eggs with the juice of a lemon, aud when the herbs 
are just done pour them in to thicken the sauce, which 
it will not do if the herbs are too much stewed. This 
is used for cotelettes a la Maintenon, sweetbreads, fat livers, 
etc. 

95. Sauce 1 la MaItre d'H6tel. 

Chop six shallots, one teaspoonful of parsley, one of 
fennel, and a dozen mushrooms fine. Let them boil 
together for five minutes in two ounces of butter ; add 
half a pint of cullis, boil ten minutes more ; season with 
salt and pepper and the squeeze of a lemon. If for 
a white Maitre d'H6teI, use the same quantity of be- 
chamel instead of cullis. 

96. MaItre d'H6tel Maigre 

Is nothing more than melted butter with a little chopped 
parsley, and a little shallot if liked, seasoned with salt, 
pepper, and lemon-juice. 

97. Truffle -Sauce. 

Pare eighteen truffles and slice them, boil them together 
in two ounces of butter till tender, add half a pint of 
bechamel or cullis, according as you wish your sauce 
white or brown ; season with salt and the squeeze of a 
lemon. Mushroom-sauce may be made in the same 
way. 

98. Italian Sauce. 

Chop four cloves of garlic, six shallots, five mushrooms, 



SAUCES. 30 

and a teacupful of parsley fine ; add two tablespoonfuls 
of sweet oil, and boil them together for five minutes ; 
add half a pint of cuUis (or bechamel if for white sauce), 
and a glass of white wine ; season with pepper and salt. 
The wine may be omitted. 

99. Tomato-Sauce. 

Eemove the seeds from a dozen tomatoes ; put them in a 
stew-pan, with an onion, a few pieces of ham, a clove, and 
a sprig of thyme. "Wlien quite boiled down, rub them 
through a tammy ; and to the puree add a few spoonfuls 
of cullis, a little salt and pepper, and boil it for twenty 
minutes. 

100. To]\iato-Sauce to Keep. 

Take tomatoes when quite ripe, bake them till tender, 
skin them, and rub them through a sieve ; to every pound 
of tomatoes add one quart of chili \^negar, a quarter of 
an ounce of white pepper, half an ounce of salt, one ounce 
of garlic, and one of shallot, with the juice of three lemons. 
Boil the whole together till it becomes the consistency of 
thick cream ; strain it through a very fine sieve ; let it 
stand till cold, and bottle it for use in wide-mouthed 
bottles. This is excellent for fish, cutlets, etc.,«and may 
be used merely heated up, or a few spoonfuls of cullis 
added to a sufficiency of it. 

101. Spanish Eeceipt for a Tomato-Sauce 
to Keep. 

Boil white sugar, in the proportion of an ounce to eacli 
tomato, until it becomes candied ; add a fourth part of 



40 SAUCES. 

the quantity of tomatoes you have of onions, and when 
they begin to colour put in the tomatoes ; season with 
salt, pepper, a few cloves, and a little nutmeg. Boil the 
whole over a very quick fire ; when sufficiently thick, 
strain it through a hair sieve. Set it on the fire again 
immediately, and boil till it is very thick. Put it into 
jelly-pots ; cover with two papers, the first one oiled, 
and keep in a cool dark place. This may be made in 
the same manner, but omitting the onions. 

102. Sauce Piquante. 

Put into a stew-pan three or four slices of ham, three 
shallots cut small, a few peppercorns, and four wine- 
glasses of sherry. Let it simmer for twenty minutes, 
then add about half a pint of cuUis. Let it stew a quarter 
of an hour longer ; skim it well ; season to your taste 
with salt and pepper, and strain through a fine sieve. 
Good with various entries, kromesldes, etc. 

103. Eelishing Sauce for Broiled Bones, Chicken, 
OR Fish. 

Put a tablespoonful of chopped onions into a stew-pan, 
with one of chili vinegar, one of common vinegar, three 
of water, two of mushroom ketchup, two of Harvey's 
sauce, and one of anchovy. Add to it a pint of melted 
butter ; let it simmer till it adheres to the back of the 
spoon ; add half a teaspoonful of sugar, and it is ready 
for use. 

104. Sauce au Jus d'Orange. 

Put half a glass of good stock in a stew-pan, and the 
same of brown gravy, a Seville orange peel grated, a piece 



SAUCES. 4} 

of butter mixed with flower about half the size of an 
egg, and a little salt and pepper. Set it on the stove, 
and when it thickens, squeeze in the juice of a Seville 
orange. This is good for wild duck, game, and poultry. 

105. Sauce for Wild Ducks. 

Four tablespoonfuls of gravy, two of Harvey sauce, two 
spoonfuls of mustard, a quarter of a lemon squeezed, four 
small wineglassfuls of port wine, half a saltspoon of 
cayenne pepper. Make it very hot, and serve. 

106. Sauce for Teal or Wild Fowl. 

A small onion and a shallot chopped fine, four or five 
leaves of sweet basil, and the peel of a lemon shred small, 
put into half a pint of gravy. Let this boil five minutes ; 
strain, and add a spoonful of salt, half a one of cayenne 
pepper, a few drops of shallot vinegar, the juice of a lemon, 
and a glass of port wine. Serve it very hot. 

107. Sauce Eoyal. 

Boil for four or five minutes six shallots in a table- 
spoonful of sweet oil ; add half a pint of sauce tournee 
(No. 85), a glass of white wine or champagne ; strain it.^. 
and stir in two tablespoonfuls of cream. 

108. Sauce 1 la Eeine. 

Pound the breast of a fowl very fine ; add to it a pint of 
bechamel (No. 84) and half a pint of cream, a little salt, 
and a few drops of lemon-juice. 



42 SAUCES. 



109. Lemon Sauce for Boiled Fowl or Eabbit. 

The inside of one lemon peeled, and the pips removed, 
cut in dice ; the liver of the fowl or rabbit minced, half a 
pint of bechamel or melted butter. Season with salt ; 
add a little minced parsley for rabbit, or tarragon for 
the fowl. Boil on a slow fire. 

110. Green Sauce for Ducklings. 

Mix a quarter of a pint of sorrel-juice with a glass 
of broth or gravy ; scald some green gooseberries, rub 
them through a sieve ; add a little sugar and a small 
piece of butter. Set it on the fire and make it very hot. 
This is also very good for green goose. 

111. Apple-Sauce. 

Pare, core, and slice as many apples as you require for 
your sauce ; put them into a pipkin with two or three 
spoonfuls of water, and set them on a hot hearth, till 
they fall to pieces. Or they may be done au bain maree — 
i.e., set the pipkin in a vessel of boiling water to boil 
till they are done ; then mash them well, and add a little 
brown sugar. 

112. Bread-Sauce. 

Boil a good-sized onion cut in four, and some black 
peppercorns, in milk, till the onion is quite a pap, then 
strain the milk on to grated white stale bread-crumbs ; 
cover it close, and let it stand for an hour ; put it into a 
saucepan with a piece of butter rolled in flour ; beat it 
well together over the fire, and serve. 



SAUCES. 43 

113. Bread-Sauce. 

Boil the crumb of a French roll and a whole onion in 
half a pint of cream ; add one ounce of butter and 
twelve peppercorns. When done take out the onion, beat 
up your sauce, and season with salt and pepper. 

114. Sauce Poivrade. 

Take a bit of butter about the size of half an egg, two 
or three onions according to their size ; cut in slices also 
carrots and parsnips ; shred two cloves, a bay-leaf, a 
sprig of thyme and sweet basil, and a little flour. Put 
all together in a saucepan, and set it on the fire to 
brown ; then put in a glass of red wine, a glass of water, 
and a spoonful of vinegar. Let it boil half an hour, 
strain through a sieve, and add a little salt and whole 
pepper. This is good for all game. 

115. Sauce au Petit MaItre. 

A glass of white wine, half a lemon cut in slices, a 
piece of crumb of bread chopped small, two teaspoon- 
fuls of salad oil, a bunch of parsley, two or three small 
onions, two cloves, a few leaves of tarragon, a clove of 
garlic, a little salt and pepper, and a glass of good 
broth. Put all in a stew-pan, set it on a gentle fire 
to boil for a quarter of an hour ; remove the grease, 
strain through a sieve, and serve. This is good for 
either poultry or game. 

116. Sauce a la Marquise. 
Take a handful of chopped bread-crumb, a piece of 



44 SAUCES. 

butter the size of half-a-crown, a tablespoonful of the 
best olive-oil, a shallot minced fine, some salt, whole 
pepper, and as much vinegar as will cover all. Put it 
into a stew-pan, and stir with a spoon over the fire till 
it boils. Good with all sorts of meat. 

117. Green Sauce for Boiled Chicken. 

Take a teacupful of spinach-juice, add the juice of one 
lemon, two yolks of eggs beat up, and a teaspoonful of 
sugar. Just heat, and serve. 

118. A Good Gravy for Game or Fowl. 

Boil some veal gravy with pepper and salt, and the juice 
of a Seville orange and a lemon. 

119. Onion-Sauce. 

Peel the onions and boil them tender ; squeeze the water 
from them ; chop, and add to them butter that has been 
melted rich and smooth with milk instead of water. 
Boil it up once. For boiled rabbits, shoulder of mutton, 
etc. 

120. Onion-Sauce Brown. 

Eoast four large onions, peel and pulp them into a rich 
stock with salt, cayenne, a glass of port wine, a little 
vinegar, or the juice of half a lemon ; simmer and stir 
into it a small piece of butter. Good for cutlets, etc. 

121. Puree of Sorrel. 

Wash and pick some sorrel, and put it in a stew-pan 
with a little water; keep stirring to prevent its burning; 



SAUCES. 45 

when tender lay it on a hair-sieve to drain ; then chop it 
fine, and put it back in the stew-pan with a little butter. 
Let it fry, stirring it often till all the water is absorbed 
out of it. Mix into it four spoonfuls of cullis, or more if 
you require a large quantity, and let it boil for an hour ; 
then rub it through a tammy; if it should be too thick 
dilute with a little broth. If plain sorrel is thought too 
acid, some lettuce may be mixed with it. Endive may 
be done in the same way. For sweetbreads, frican- 
deau, etc. 

122. Celery-Sauce. 

Choose some good stalks of celery, wash them well, but 
do not let them soak, in water ; pare instead of scrape 
any parts that may require it ; cut it into small pieces 
and boil in a little water till quite tender. Strain off the 
water and simmer it for a few minutes, with the addition 
of half a pint of cream, a small piece of butter rolled in 
flour, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Be careful that your 
fire is not too hot, or the cream will burn, and stir it all 
the time it is on gently. Good for boiled poultry and 
game. 

123. TarPwAGON-Sauce. 

Chop a handful of the green leaves of tarragon ; boil them 
for five minutes in a little water; add half a pint of 
bechamel. Season with salt and cayenne. For boiled 
fowl, fillets of chicken, etc. 



124. Curry-Sauce. 
Peel and cut two good-sized onions in slices, an apple 



46 SAUCES. 

and a carrot iu dice, and an ounce of bacon. Put them 
in a stew-pan with two ounces of butter; let them stew 
gently five or six minutes ; add three tablespoonfuls of 
flour, a large one of curry-powder. Moisten with a pint 
and a half of milk, a teaspoonful of salt, and one of sugar. 
Boil till rather thick, pass through a sie ve, and it is 
ready to use as desired. 

125. Sauce for a StExIK. 

Take equal parts of red wine and ketchup, a small piece 
of butter, and a little pepper, with a teaspoonful of 
shallot vinegar; stir together in a small saucepan on the 
fire, and pour it very hot over the steak. It is also 
good with mutton-chops. 

126. Sauce a la Tripe. 

Peel and cut six onions in slices ; put them in a stew-pan 
with ten ounces of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one of 
sugar, and half a one of pepper. Set it on a slow fire to 
simmer till it becomes a pulp, stirring now and then to 
prevent its getting brown ; add a tablespoonful of flour, a 
pint of milk, and boil till it is rather thicker than melted 
butter. For eggs, etc. 

127. Sauce for Veal Cutlets, etc. 

Put in a pint saucepan two yolks of eggs, a pound of 
butter, a quarter teaspoonful of salt, half that of pepper, 
and the juice of a small lemon. Set it on the fire, and 
stir round quickly till it forms a rich thick sauce ; two 



SAUCES. 47 

minutes should be enough to do it. If too thick, add 
a few di'ops of milk. 

128. Mushroom Gravy. 

Clean your mushrooms carefully ; put them into a stew- 
pan with a piece either of bacon or butter ; brown them 
over the stove till they stick to the bottom of the pan, 
then put in a little flour, and let that also brown; add a 
pint of broth, let it boil for two minutes, take it off the 
fire, and season with the squeeze of a lemon and a little 
salt. 

129. Horseradish Sauce. 

Grate a stalk of horseradish very fine ; to each table- 
spoonful of this add a teaspoonful of mustard, one of 
white sugar, and a httle salt ; add vinegar, a teaspoonful 
at a time, working it well till it comes to a proper 
consistency. The yolk of a hard-boiled Qgg worked in 
is considered an improvement by some cooks. For 
roast beef. 

130. Sauce Appetissante. 

Mustard one large spoonful, a tablespoonful of sugar 
worked into it ; two tablespoonfuls of Harvey sauce ; a 
teaspoonful of shallot, elder, and chili vinegars, and a 
tablespoonful of claret or port wine. French mustard 
may be added or other vinegars, or the proportion of 
each varied to taste. Put the whole in a silver dish 
over a lamp. Put in your slices of meat of any kind, or 
hot or cold game ; let it cook till very hot. This is 
excellent, and will revive and stimulate the most jaded 
appetite. 



48 SAUCES. 

131. Sauce for a Grill. 

Half a pint of gravy, one ounce of butter well rubbed 
together with a tablespoonful of flour, a tablespoonful of 
mushroom ketchup, two teaspoonfuls of lemon-juice, one 
of made mustard, one of capers, half a one of whole 
back pepper, a very little grated lemon-peel, a teaspoon- 
ful of shallot vinegar, and one of essence of anchovy, and 
a few grains of cayenne pepper. Stir well together, 
simmer till very hot, and pour over your grill. 

132. Sauce for Venison. 

To a pint of port wine add two pounds of moist sugar 
and a quarter of a pint of white wine vinegar. Boil it 
about twenty minutes. Good with stewed venison or 
hash. 



FISH SAUCES. 

133. Fish Sauce without Butter. 

Simmer very gently a pint of vinegar with half a pint of 
soft water, an onion, half a handful of scraped horseradish, 
and the following spices lightly bruised — four cloves, 
two blades of mace, and half a teaspoonful of black 
pepper. Wlien the onion is quite tender take it out, and 
chop it small, with two anchovies, and set the whole 
again on the fire to boil for a few minutes, adding a spoon- 
ful of ketchup. Have ready well beaten the yolks of 
three eggs ; strain ; then mix the liquor by degrees with 
them ; when well mixed set the saucepan over a gentle 



SAUCES. 49 

fire ; toss the sauce to and fro from the saucepan into a 
bason you will hold in your hand, and shake the pan over 
the fire; do not let it boil. The sauce should be of the 
consistency of melted butter. 

134. Lobster-Sauce. 

Pound the spawn and two anchovies, pour on them a 
little gravy, add a small bit of butter; when pounded 
very fine rub it through a hair-sieve, and cover it till it 
is wanted. Break the lobster carefully, cut all the fliesh 
into dice, but not too small ; dilute some of your prepared 
spawn in some melted butter, and if you have no 
anchovies to pound with it, you may now add two tea- 
spoonfuls of essence of anchovies, a Httle salt, and cay- 
enne pepper, two spoonfuls of double cream, and mix it 
all well before you add the meat to it. Let it simmer on 
the fire taking care it does not boil. A squeeze of lemon 
may be added. It should look very red and smooth. 

135. Oyster-Sauce. 

Beard three dozen good-sized oysters ; put them in a stew- 
pan with their own liquor, six ounces of butter, and a 
tablespoonful of flour. Let them just boil one minute all 
together, then add a teacupful of cream. Season with 
pepper, salt, the squeeze of a lemon, and a very little 
cayenne. 

136. Sauce for Carp. 

Put half a pint of Lisbon wine in a small stew-pan, to 
which add a little minced parsley, thyme, and a small 
onion, four anchovies, the liver of the fish, two spoonfuls 
of vinegar and one of ketchup. Let them boil ten minutes ; 

E 



50 SAUCES. 

then put in three spoonfuls of gravy, a quarter of a 
pound of butter and a little flour; set it on the fire again 
and keep stirring till it is ready to boil ; then strain it 
through a hair-sieve. This is also good for mullets, etc. 

137. Sauce Holland aise (a real Dutch receipt). 

The yolks of six eggs beat up with a very little flour and 
about the size of half a nutmeg of butter; add a little 
pepper and salt, and a blade of mace, two tablespoonfuls 
of vinegar, and four of water. Put it on the fire and stir 
all the time till it just begins to boil; then take it off", and 
put in a good lump of butter; stir it well together, always 
going round the same way. It should never be put on 
the fire again, and therefore should not be made till the 
fish is ready to serve. All boiled fish is good with this 
sauce. The quantity here given is sufiicient for six 
people. 

138. Dutch Sauce. 

Boil some sliced horseradish, a blade of mace, and two 
anchovies in some good stock; strain, and thicken it with 
the yolks of four eggs well beaten and mixed. 

139. Sauce a la Grillon. 

Put about two ounces of butter in a stew-pan to melt ; 
then rub in a spoonful of flour ; stir it about, and add 
two tablespoonfuls of cream and one of milk ; stir till 
quite smooth, then add about a tablespoonful of minced 
parsley and shallot ; season with white pepper and salt ; 
keep stirring it over the fire till quite hot, but do not 
let it boil ; and serve. This sauce is good for fillets of 



SAUCES. 51 

turbot, sole, or whiting ; it should be of the consistence 
of tliick cream. 

140. Good Sauce for Fillets of Sole. 

Two hard-boiled eggs, one raw yolk, and a little cream ; 
mix very smooth with a tablespoonful of tarragon or 
elder \dnegar. Put it into a stewpan, heat without boiling, 
season with pepper and salt, and pour over the fillets. 

141. Melted Butter. 

This, however simple, is rarely well done. Mix in the 
proportion of a teaspoonful of flour to four ounces of the 
best butter as much as you require on a plate, then put 
it into a small saucepan with three tablespoonfuls of hot 
water or milk ; boil it quick for a minute, shaking it all 
the time. Another way is to cut two ounces of butter 
in small pieces, put it into a very clean saucepan mth a 
large teaspoonful of flour and two tablespoonfuls of milk; 
hold it over the fire, and shake it round constantly the 
same way till it begins to simmer, then let it stand 
quietly and boil up. Care must be taken that the 
butter does not oil. The yolk of an egg is a great 
improvement. 

142. Sauce Holland aise. 

Four tablespoonfuls of elder vinegar boiled with a little 
salt, a teaspoonful of flour, and a blade of mace. Beat up 
the yolks of five eggs ; cut about a quarter of a pound 
of butter into thin slices ; put these into the hot vinegar, 
shake and mix well, stirring continually. It must not 
be put on the fire after the eggs and butter are added. 



52 SAUCES. 

143. Sauce Italienne. 

Put into a saucepan a little parsley, a shallot, some 
mushrooms and truffles, all minced small, with a piece 
of butter the size of a walnut. Let it stew a few minutes, 
and add a wineglass of white wine and a little pepper 
and salt. Let all boil together slowly for half an hour, 
pass it through a tammy, and add a tablespoonful of 
olive-oil. This is the sauce for maqueraux a I'ltalienne, 
but it is excellent with other fish. 

144. Sauce aux CEuts (Flamande). 

Put four yolks of eggs beaten, three or four slices of 
lemon, a little grated nutmeg, a tablespoonful of vinegar, 
and a good-sized piece of butter, into a saucepan ; set 
it on a gentle fire, stir it well, and do not let it boil. It 
is good with all sorts of fish. 

145. Sauce for Salmon Trout. 

Take a piece of ham, one onion cut in four, four cloves, 
a little j)epper, a shallot, and a piece of butter. Put them 
into a saucepan, and set over a slow fire for a few 
minutes, then add a tablespoonful of flour and some good 
stock. Eeduce — i.e. boil till it thickens — some red wine ; 
add about a glassful to your sauce, and a small lump of 
sugar; a little salt and pepper, and six anchovies, 
previously washed and scraped. Let your sauce boil, and 
pass it through a tammy. This is also good for eels. 

14G. Newcastle Sauce for Flsh. 
Take three spoonfuls of vinegar, three of strong gravy. 



SAUCES. 53 

three or four anchovies. Boil them together till reduced 
to one spoonful ; strain it ofif, and add half a pound of 
butter beaten to a cream, and one spoonful of ketchup. 
Boil altogether just before you serve. 

147. Sauce ron Fillets of Sole. 

Sweet basil, thyme, and parsley, and a shallot all minced 
very fine ; add a ladle of clear gravy, a tablespoonful 
of white wine or vinegar, the juice of a lemon, pepper 
and salt to taste. Serve very hot. 

148. Sauce aux Capres. 

Take three ladles of cullis, three large spoonfuls of 
capers, some parsley minced fine, the juice of two 
lemons, and a little minced shallot. Set it in a saucepan 
on the fire, and let it boil. This is good for pike, 
barbel, etc. 

149. Sauce for Turbot or John Dorey. 

A pint of good gravy, two mneglasses of Rhenish wine, 
two spoonfuls of oil, the juice of two lemons, an anchovy, 
half a shallot, a small bunch of green onions and parsley, 
a spoonful of cullis, pepper and salt to taste. Cover it 
down very close. Set it upon a slow stove to simmer 
gently for about an hour. Take a large ladle of cullis, 
and strain to it about the same quantity of the liquor 
the fish was boiled in ; add this to the sauce v/ith a 
large spoonful of whole capers, or minced olives, and a 
little minced parsley. Let it boil, and pour it boiling over 
the fish. 



54 SAUCES. 



150. Beurre Noir. 

Boil till it is reduced to half the quantity, half a pint of 
the best vinegar with a little salt, pepper, and half a 
bay-leaf. Put into a frpng-pan seven ounces of fresh 
butter ; heat it on the fire till it begins to blacken ; then 
add a few picked parsley-leaves. Let them fry for a 
second or two, skim the butter, let it settle for a minute, 
and pour it into the vinegar, after having removed the 
bay-leaf. For skate, etc. 

151. MaItre d'H6tel Sauce. 

Melt a quarter of a pound of fresh butter in a saucepan 
with a good pinch of flour and a glass of milk. Let it heat, 
stirring it constantly ; add some finely-chopped parsley, 
and squeeze in the juice of a lemon. 



FISH. 



152. Whitings or Sole a la Prevoyante. 

Cut your fisli into fillets and marine it thus : — Lsij them 
two hours before cooking in a flat dish, and pour over 
them one spoonful of vinegar, one of oil, six or eight 
onions sliced, a few sprigs of thyme, a little parsley, and 
four or five bay-leaves, pepper, and salt. Set the dish 
in a cool larder. To prepare the batter in which they 
are to be cooked, put into a bason two tablespoonfuls of 
flour, equal quantities of small beer and water, and one 
tablespoonful of oil ; beat it well up, keeping it quite 
thin. It should be about the consistency of thick cream. 
Wliisk the white of a raw egg to a froth, and add it to 
the batter just as you are ready to use it. Have your 
hot lard ready ; take up the fillets of fish separately, and 
dab them about in the batter till they are covered with 
it ; as each is done, drop them into the hot lard and fry 
of a fine golden colour. It is a good guide to know if 
the lard is of the proper heat, to put in a few parsley 
leaves, and if it immediately crisps it is right. Tomato- 
sauce should be served with this, but separately. 

153. Whitings a l'Italiennk 

Having cleaned the whitings, lay them on a silver or 
metal dish with a small piece of butter, two shallots, and 



56 FISH. 

some parsley minced very fine ; put tliem to cook in a 
moderate oven. While they are doing pour over them 
a glass of white wine and one of stock. When they are 
nearly ready, put them carefully, so as not to break them, 
into a saucepan ; add to the sauce a spoonful of cuUis, a 
piece of butter, a very little essence of anchovy, and the 
squeeze of a lemon. Keep them on the fire a few 
minutes and arrange them on the dish they are to be 
served on. 

154. Whitings as in Scotland. 

Choose small perfectly fresh fish, rub them in flour till it 
adheres ; lay them in a fryingpan with a good bit of 
butter ; saute them very slowly. They should not be 
dry or coloured. Mince some parsley and green onions 
or chives very fine ; put them into some good broth and 
about two tablespoonfuls of cream ; mix it well together 
and pour it over the whitings before they are quite 
finished cooking ; move them about very gently, not to 
break them, till they are done. They are very delicate 
and excellent done in this way, which, though simple, 
requires great care. N'o butter should be used but 
what is required to fry them. 



155. FiiiED Fillets of Whiting. 

Cut about six small whitings in two from top to bottom, 
take the fillets, lay them to marinade for about an hour, 
in equal proportions of vinegar, white wine, and water ; 
add salt, green onions, a few blades of mace, and some 
whole pepper ; dry them ; toss them in a heap of fine 
flour. Have ready a pan of hot lard, and fry all together 



FISH. 57 

on a brisk fire. Fry some parsley crisp and green, and 
serve your fish upon it. They should be eaten with the 
following sauce : — To a large spoonful of the best vinegar 
and the same quantity of water add a little salt, some 
shallot and parsley minced fine, and the juice of an orange 
or lemon. 

156. Whitings in Sauce. 

Clean ycur fish, and lay them in salt and water. Take 
as much fish stock (or stock made from a fowl will do) 
as you require for the quantity of sauce, season it with 
salt, whole white pepper, two or three cloves, a blade or 
two of mace, and a bit of lemon-peel ; let it boil five 
minutes ; strain and return it to the pan ; thicken with 
a piece of butter rolled in flour. Wlien it boils add 
some parsley and chives or green onions minced fine ; let 
it boil a few minutes, and put in your fish. "VATien 
nearly done add the yolks of two eggs, a little cream, a 
glass of white wine, and the squeeze of a lemon, pre- 
viously well mixed with soii^e of the sauce. Do not let 
it boil after this is added, but shake it well over the fire. 



157. Haddocks with Broavn Sauce (Scotch). 

Take the largest haddocks you can get ; clean them, cut 
off the heads, tails, belly, and fins ; lay them in as much 
small beer and vinegar (half of each) as will cover them ; 
let them remain an hour or two. Take the trimmings 
and one f.sh cut in pieces ; put them into a saucepan with 
as much w^ater as you wish sauce, two onions, a sprig of 
savory, thyme, and a little lemon-peel. Boil slowly till 
all the substance is oul of the fish ; strain ofi" the stock ; 



58 FISH. 

thicken with brown roux; add two tablespoonfiils of 
ketchup, a little mixed spice, some salt, and half a 
glass of claret. When it boils put in your fish. If you 
can get oysters, add them with some of their juice. Let 
it boil about ten minutes, when it will be ready to serve. 



158. Fillets of Haddock 1 la MaItre d'HOtel. 

Take the two sides of a haddock off the bone ; lay them 
in a sautepan ; boil in broth, for five minutes, a spoonful 
of chopped onion, parsley, and mushroom. ; then pour it 
over the fillets ; add a little pepper and salt, and fry 
them. When done serve under them a maitre d'hotel 
sauce. (See Fish Sauces.) Whitings may be done in 
the same way. 

159. Haddocks aux Capres. 

Cut a haddock into two or three pieces ; set it on to boil 
in water with a little salt, an onion, and some parsley ; 
let it boil half an hour ; strain it and add to the stock 
some beef broth. Then take a bit of butter the size of 
a walnut, and a spoonful of flour ; set it on the stove to 
melt, add the stock to it, and stir till it boils. Let it 
boil gently half an hour, skimming it all the time, then 
add a teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, two of soy, one 
of vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, and a little cayenne ; 
strain it through a tammy into a clean saucepan, and put 
into it a good quantity of capers. Prepare two haddocks 
by boiling them for a quarter of an hour with very little 
water covered close on the stove. Keep them in the dish, 
and pour the sauce very hot over them just before serving. 



FISH. 51) 



160. Filets de Sole a l'Orlie. 

Clean tlie soles and cut them entirely open by the back 
from head to tail. Make each into four neat fillets, and 
steep them in lemon-juice, salt, parsley, and sliced onions. 
Shake them occasionally in this marinade, where they 
ought to remain an hour. AMien ready to serve, drain, 
dip them in flour, and fry till they are firm and of a 
£:ood colour. Serve under them an Italienne or tomato 
sauce. (See Fish Sauces.) 

161. A Good Way to Dress a Turlot. 

Lay the fish you are to boil in a pint of vinegar seasoned 
with salt, pepper, sliced onion, and a faggot of thyme, 
marjoram, and parsley. Leave it in an hour ; then put 
the fish and pickle carefully into a fish-kettle of boiling 
water ; add to it a few cloves, some mace, four or five 
anchovies, and a bit of horseradish. AAHien done enough, 
take out your fish and let it drain ; be careful it is not 
boiled too fast, and in only just enough liquor. For the 
sauce take half a pint of the well-strained liquor of a 
quart of oysters, half a pint of white wine, the flesh of 
the body of a lobster, a little mixed spices, a bit of lemon- 
peel, and two anchovies. Let it stew about twenty 
minutes, then strain and add a pound of butter, and as 
much flour as will make it a good thickness ; then put 
in the oysters, and the tail and claws of the lobster, 
previously boiled and cut in dice. Put the sauce on the 
stove again for a few minutes, and serv^e very hot. Cod 
and other fish are good dressed in the same way. 



GO FISH. 

1G2. Watee Souche. 

Stew two or three flounders, some parsley leaves and 
roots, thirty peppercorns, and a quart of water, till the 
fish are boiled to pieces ; then pulp them through a sieve. 
Set over the fire the pulped fish, the liquor that boiled 
them, and the perch, pike, or whatever fish you wish, 
and some fresh parsley leaves and roots. Simmer till 
the fish is done enough. Serve in a deep dish. Tliin 
slices of bread and butter should be eaten with it. 

1G3. Smelts aux Anchois et Capres. 

Eight large smelts are enough for a small dish. For the 
sauce boil a couple of anchovies in a glass of Rhenish or 
other white wine till they are dissolved, and strain it 
into a ladleful of cullis or gravy ; season with a bunch 
of onions and parsley, a blade of mace, a bay-leaf, and 
some pepper and salt. Put your fish in and let them 
stew gently a quarter of an hour. Take out the onions 
and parsley, and add a spoonful of capers. Make it 
boiling hot, and squeeze in the juice of an orange or 
lemon. Take out the fish very tenderly to dish. Put 
a li'ttle finely-minced parsley into your sauce, and pour it 
over them. You cannot name a fresh-water fish that is 
not good dressed in this way. 

1G4. Eels a la Poulette. 

Turn the eels upon hot cinders till the skin is com- 
pletely grilled. AVipe and scrape them. Cut off the 
fins and skin. Cut off the head and tail, and gut them. 
Cut in pieces of an equal length ; wash and leave to 



FISH. 61 

blanch ; scrape and clean the blood well out ; put them 
in a stew-pan with a bit of butter and some mushrooms ; 
set them for a minute on the fire, and dust them with 
flour ; then add a glass of stock and one of white wine ; 
stir with a wooden spoon till it boils. Put to it a little 
parsley, two shallots, half a bay -leaf, one clove, salt and 
pepper to taste, and twenty or thirty button onions; let 
it simmer, and reduce ; sldm off the fat ; thicken with 
two or three yolks of eggs well beaten ; add the juice 
of a lemon, and serve. 

165. Eels 1 la Tartare. 

Prepare the eels as above ; put the pieces in a stew-pan 
with slices of onions, carrots, parsley, two or three 
scallions cut in two, a glass of white wine, salt, a bay- 
leaf, two cloves, and a sprig of thyme. When done 
enough drain, and roll them in bread-crumbs; dip in egg^ 
roll them again in crumbs, and put them on the gridiron 
till well browned. Serve with sauce a la tartare. (See 
Cold Sauces.) 

16G. Spitchcocked Eels. 

Clean them well; rub them with salt, and sldn them; slit 
open the belly and take out the bone ; wash and dry 
them; cut them in pieces about four inches long; dredge 
them with flour, and wipe it off so that they may be 
quite dry. Make a batter of melted butter thickened 
with yolks of eggs, a little minced parsley, sage, and a 
very little shallot, some pepper and salt. Poll the pieces 
of eel in finely-grated bread-crumbs ; dip them in the 
batter, and roll them again ; then broil them over a clear 



62 . FISH. 

fire of a fine liglit brown. If the eels are small they 
may be dipped and broiled whole. Serve with a 
remoulade a tartare, or a Dutch sauce. (See Sauces.) 

167. A Good Way to Boil Tench, Perch, etc. 

Clean them well and scale them, and put into the pan 
with a pint of water a teaspoonful of salt, an onion 
sliced, three sprigs of thyme, a bay-leaf, some parsley 
and celery, a little pepper, and a wine glassful of vinegar. 
If the fish weigh a pound boil for half an hour, and more 
or less according to their size. Serve with Dutch or 
other sauce. 

168. Stewed Trout, Carp, or Tench. 

Clean the fish very well. If large they may be cut in 
pieces. Rub them inside with salt and mixed spices ; 
lay them in a stew-pan with as much good stock as will 
cover them, two onions with four cloves stuck in each, 
some Jamaica and black peppercorns, and a bit of mace. 
AVhen the fish have stewed a few minutes, add two 
glasses of white wine, a boned anchovy, the juice of a 
lemon, and a little cayenne pepper. When the fish is 
sufficiently stewed, take it out carefully and keep it hot ; 
thicken the sauce with some brown roux. Add a tea- 
spoonful of mushroom ketchup, skim, strain, pour over 
the fish, and serve. 

169. Matelote of Carp or Eels, etc. 

One large or two small carp, cut in seven or eight 
pieces. Fry them in a httle butter, then add to them 
about a pint of red wine, a ladle of gravy, a bunch of 



FISH. C3 

green onions, herbs, and parsley, a few cloves, three or 
four bay-leaves, pepper and salt. Stew all together 
gently about three-quarters of an hour. Strain it into 
another stew-pan, in which put as much cullis as will 
make up the quantity of sauce you require for your dish. 
Place your fish in it, with a spoonful or two of capers ; 
an anchovy cleaned, boned, and minced fine ; and the 
juice of a lemon. The capers may be omitted and 
button onions substituted. Tench and eels are excellent 
done in this way. 

170. Un Brocket Farci. 

Prepare your pike thus : — Gut it without cutting it 
open, but take care it is well cleaned. Cut a notch 
down the back from head to tail, put the tail in the 
mouth, and lay it to marinade for an hour in vinegar 
and oil, sliced onions, parsley, and baj^-leaves. For 
your stuffing take the udder of a leg of veal, or the 
kidney fat of a loin of lamb, some fat bacon cut in dice, 
some green onions, a mushroom or two, or truffles, 
parsley, salt and pepper, and a morsel of butter. Chop 
it all well, add the crumb of a French roll soaked in 
cream or milk ; pound all together in a mortar, try if 
it is seasoned enough, if not add more. Fill the belly 
of the fish, close up the cut in the back, egg it well 
over, strew bread-crumbs on it, and bake in a gentle 
oven. Serve with a caper sauce. (See Fish Sauces.) 

171. To Fry Whitebait. 

The sooner they are cooked the better. Keep them in a 
pan of salt and water. When you wish to cook them, 



G4: FISH. 

lift tliem out with a skimmer, for they should never be 
handled. Put them into a cloth on which there is 
plenty of flour, toss them about in it till they are well 
coated, place them on a sieve and sift off all the flour 
that will come. Have ready your hot lard, and fry 
immediately from one to two minutes. Lift them out 
with the skimmer, drain from the frying fat, and serve 
them instantly. Thin slices of brown bread and butter, 
cayenne and lemon, should be eaten with them. 

172. To Saute Soles, Flounders, etc. 

Clean and trim the fish, dip them in a couple of eggs 
previously well beaten. Put six tablespoonfuls of olive- 
oil in a frying-pan, place it over the fire ; when quite 
hot put in the fish, let it remain five minutes, turn it 
over and fry the other side. Ten or twelve minutes 
should be sufficient to cook them. 

173. Soles a la Menuisiere. 

Cut the fins off a sole, and with a knife make four inci- 
sions across it on each side, then rub well into it half a 
tablespoonful of salt and chopped onions, dip it in flour, 
and broil over a slow fire. Have ready two ounces of 
fresh butter, mixed with the juice of a lemon and a little 
cayenne pepper, which rub over the sole, previously laid 
in a very hot dish without a napkin. Turn the fish 
over once or twice that it may be well covered. Put it 
into the oven for a minute, and serve very hot. 

174. Soles Saute 1 la Eavigote. 
Scale and wash the soles, but do not empty them ; run 



FISH. 65 

a knife between the bone and the flesh, and remove the 
fillets ; skin them, cut them in two, put them into a 
saute-pan, and cover them with melted butter, and dust 
them over with pepper and salt ; fry them on both sides 
over a brisk fire. "When done drain them on a sheet of 
white paper, dish them, and pour over a sauce Eavigote 
a la creme. (See Sauces.) 

175. Soles au Gratin. 

Cut off the fins of a fine fresh sole, and make an incision 
in the back ; then butter a sautc-pan, and put into it a 
teaspoonful of finely-chopped onions and a wineglassful 
of white wine ; then place the sole in the pan, cover it 
with six spoonfuls of cuUis, and sprinkle fine bread- 
crumbs over it, and stick a few small pieces of butter 
about it. Put it now into a moderate oven for twenty 
minutes or half an hour. Remove it carefully from the 
saute-pan and keej) it hot while you make the following 
sauce : — Put into the saucepan four spoonfuls of stock, 
let it boil five minutes, stirring it all the time ; add the 
juice of a lemon, a teaspoonful of chopped mushrooms, 
one of minced parsley, one of essence of anchovies, a 
little sugar and cayenne pej)per ; beat all together, and 
pour it round the fish in the dish in which it is to be 
served, and which should be a silver one. Put it again 
into the oven for a quarter of an hour, pass the sala- 
mander over it, and serve very hot. 

176. Macqueraux a l'Italienne. 

Clean the fish well, cut off the heads and tails, and put 
them into a saucepan to stew, with as mucli white wine 



GQ FISH. 

as will cover them, a few slices of onions and carrots, a 
bunch of sweet herbs, some salt, and a little nutmeg. 
When done enough, pour over them a sauce Italienne 
(see Fish Sauces), and serve. 

177. Whitings a l'Italienne. 

Wash, clean, and skin them ; cut off the tails and fins, 
and lay them in a marinade for four hours, made with 
oil, lemon-juice, slices of onion, and whole parsley leaves. 
Strain them, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry them 
of a fine golden colour — this is best done with oil. 
(A real Italian recipe.) 

178. Mackerel a la MaItee d'HOtel. 

Choose large, fresh, soft-roed mackerel ; cut off the fins, 
point of the tails and heads, and make an incision an 
inch deep down the back ; lay them in a dish, strew 
salt and pepper over them, also half a pint of sweet oil, 
an onion cut in rings, and some whole parsley. Leave 
the mackerel to marine in this for about two hours 
turning them over from time to time. Half an hour 
before serving rub a gridiron with oil, take out the fish 
and wipe them, sprinkle them with a little salt, and lay 
them an inch apart on the gridiron over a slow fire. 
Do them on one side till they are of a good colour, then 
turn them over and do the other. Lay them on their 
backs for five minutes, when they will be ready to dish. 
Open when dished the backs with a spoon, and intro- 
duce a piece of butter, mixed with salt, pepper, minced 
parsley, and the juice of a lemon. The marinade may 
be served with the mackerel. 



riSH. 67 

179. Filets de Macqueraux. 

Cut the mackerel into fillets, and cook them in a frying- 
pan with a little butter over a slow stove. Make your 
sauce with a piece of butter, the yolks of two eggs 
beaten, a little broth, some cayenne pepper, and finely- 
minced fennel and parsley, salt to your taste, and the 
squeeze of a lemon or a Seville orange. Do not let 
your sauce boil, but make it very hot, and pour it over 
the fillets. 

180. Cod a la Ck£:me. 

Put into a stew-pan a good bit of butter, half a spoonful of 
flour, a clove of garlic minced fine, and some whole pepper ; 
moisten with milk or cream; tliicken your sauce on the 
stove. Put in the fillets of cod; heat, and serve very hot. 
If you wish to serve it with bread-crumbs put in a little 
more butter and the yolks of three eggs. Lay the fish in 
the dish you mean to serve it in, with the sauce round 
it; cover Avith bread-crumbs, and put it for a minute 
or two in the oven, and brown it with a salamander. 
Cod or salmon that have been previously dressed are 
good in this way. 

181. Salmon au Court Bouillon or au Bleu. 

Having drawn and cleaned your salmon, score the sides 
of it pretty deep ; lay it on a napkin, and season it with 
salt, pepper, a few cloves, a little nutmeg, some sliced 
onions, chives, parsley, sliced lemon, two or three bay- 
leaves, and some basil. Work up a pound of butter in 
a little flour, and put it in the belly of the fish ; then 
wi'ap the salmon in the napkin, bind it about with a 



68 FISH. 

packthread, and put it into a fish-kettle of a size 
proportionate to your fish. Pour over it equal parts of 
wine, water, and vinegar, in quantities sufiicient to boil 
it, and set it over a quick fire. When it is done enough, 
which will be in from fifteen to twenty-five minutes, 
according to its size, take it off, and keep it simmering 
over a slow stove till you are ready to serve. Then 
take up the salmon, take it out of the napkin, and lay it 
on another in the dish you intend to serve it in, and 
garnish it with parsley. 

182. To Boil Salmon as at Berwick. 

Cut the salmon across into small slices, wash them twice 
in hard water, or pump water over them. The water 
must be boiling when the salmon is put in, and plenty 
of salt in it (as much as will float an egg). If a small 
salmon it will take fifteen minutes ; if a large one 
twenty to twenty-five. Hard water must be used in 
boiling. Serve in a deep dish, with some of the water 
the fish was boiled in poured over. 

183. To Broil Salmon with a White Sauce. 

Having cut the salmon in slices, melt some butter in a 
pan, and add a little salt to it. Eub the slices of fish 
with this, and broil them on a gridiron over a slack fire. 
Make a white sauce as follows : — Put a piece of butter 
and a pinch of flour into a saucepan, two anchovies, 
previously washed and boned, some capers, and a whole 
leek. Season with pepper, salt, and a very little nutmeg. 
Add a little water and a few drops of vinegar. Keep 
stirring the sauce over the stove till of a proper thickness. 



FISH. 

then take out the leek, and pour it into the dish you 
intend to serve the sahnon in. Lay the slices of broiled 
fish in, and serve very hot. 

184. Salmon with a Brown Sauce. 

Broil your slices of salmon as above. Put into a sauce- 
pan a piece of butter the size of an egg, and set it on a 
slow stove. AYlien the butter is melted, put in half a 
spoonful of flour, and shake it about till it is brown. 
Then put in some good fish stock and a glass of white 
wine. Season with pepper, salt, an onion stuck with 
cloves, a bunch of herbs, and a little shred parsley. 
When the slices of salmon are broiled put them into this 
sauce, and let them simmer in it till the sauce is reduced 
enough. Then take out the fish and lay it in a dish. 
Add to the sauce a thickening of one or two yolks of 
eggs, beat up in a little vinegar. Let the sauce just 
come to a boil, stirring it well, and pour very hot over 
the salmon. 

185. Saumon en Caisse. 

Take two good slices of salmon ; put them to marinade 
for an hour in a dish with as much sweet oil as will 
cover them ; parsley, onions, a little mushroom, and a 
shallot, all minced very fine ; half a bay-leaf, a little 
thyme, and sweet basil, reduced almost to powder ; salt 
and pepper. Make a paper-case large enough to hold 
your two slices of salmon. Oil the paper. Put in the 
fish v/ith the seasoning on it, and place it in the oven. 
When done enough, pour a little lemon-juice on it, and 
serve. 



70 FISH. 

186. Salmon Collops. 

Cut the salmon in thin collops. Season with pepper 
and salt, and fry them in a saut6-pan with a little butter. 
Place them in a dish, and serve with the following sauce : 
■ — Take a spoonful of fennel, mint, and parsley, boil them 
five minutes, and chop them fine. Mix with them half 
a pint of bechamel, and a little glaze. Season with salt, 
a little cayenne, and the squeeze ot half a lemon. 
Mackerel are very good done in the same way. 

187. Irish Pickle for Salmon. 

Equal parts of vinegar, white wine, and water. Boil it 
with mace, cloves, ginger, pepper, and horseradish. Take 
out the latter when sufficiently boiled, and pour the pickle 
over salmon previously boiled in strong salt and water. 

188. Yorkshire Recipe to Dress Dried Salmon. 

Pull some dried salmon into flakes. Have ready some 
hard-boiled eggs, chopped large. Put both into a pint 
of cream, with two ounces of butter, rubbed up with a 
teaspoonful of flour. Skim it and stir till it boils. Make a 
wall of mashed potatoes round the dish, and put the fish in 
the centre. 

189. Baked Herrings. 

Scale, wash, and dry them weU in a cloth ; lay them on a 
board, pound some black pepper and cloves together, and 
mix them with four times the quantity of salt, and rub 
the fish all over. Lay them straight in an earthenware 
disli (a deep one is best). Cover them with vinegar and 



FISH. 71 

a few bay-leaves. Tie strong paper over the top of the 
dish, and bake them in a moderate oven for about half 
an hour or more. They are good eaten either hot or 
cold, apd will keep a long time if well covered. Mackerel 
and trout may be dressed in the same way. 

190. Baked Herrings in a Crust. 

Make a shape of good paste just the length and the 
breadth of a herring. Then lay a fresh herring, previously 
scaled, washed, and cleaned, in it, with a piece of butter, 
some minced onions, pepper and salt. Cover with paste, 
and put them in the oven for about twenty minutes or 
half an hour. They are excellent. 

191. To Boil Herrings. 

Scale, clean, and wash them ; dry them thoroughly in a 
cloth, rub them well over with salt and vinegar. When 
the water boils, put them in ; about ten or twelve minutes 
will do them. Then take them up; drain them well, and 
put them on the dish. Serve with grated horseradish, and 
horseradish sauce, or parsley and butter made very green. 
Mackerel may be boiled in the same way, and served 
^ith fennel or green gooseberry sauce. 

192. Pickled Herrings, Mackerel, Sprats or 
Smelts. 

Cut two onions in thin slices, mix with salt and pepper 
and a little mixed spice, two or three bay-leaves, and a 
small faggot of sweet herbs. Clean the fish, and cut off 
the fins and gills. Put a Httle of the onion inside them, 



72 FISH. 

and rub the outside with the same. Put them into a 
deep dish, with the onions, herbs, and seasoning, half a 
pint of vinegar, and a gill of water. Bake in a slow 
oven one hour. Serve cold. They keep a long time 
good. 

193. Fish Pie. 

Clean and scale some trout, whitings, or other small fish ; 
cut off their heads and tails ; put a few bits of butter in 
the bottom of a pudding-dish ; lay in the fish, sprinkle 
with pepper and salt, and a good quantity of chopped 
green onions and parsley ; then put in another layer of 
fish, seasoning in the same way. When the dish is full, 
pour over a glass of vinegar and a little mushroom- 
ketchup ; cover the top of the dish with mashed pota- 
toes, and put it to bake in the oven for an hour. 

194. Fish Pudding. 

Pound some cold fish in a mortar with a few spoonfuls of 
broth ; add a small lump of butter and some crumbs of 
bread ; mix it with the yolks of four eggs, pre\dously 
well beaten, and rub it through a sieve into a bason with 
the whites of the eggs also well whipped ; put it into a 
souffle-mould and bake it in the oven. 

195. Cod Pie. 

Take a piece of the middle of a small cod and salt it well 
one night ; next day wash it, season with pepper and 
salt and a little cayenne ; place it in a pie-dish with a few 
bits of butter and a little good broth ; cover it with crust 
and bake it. Make a sauce of a spoonful of broth, a 



FISH. 73 

quarter of a pint of cream, a small piece of roux, and a 
little grated lemon-peel ; give it one boil, raise the crust, 
and pour it over the fish when it is baked enough. 
Oysters may be added and also minced parsley. Soles 
and turbots may be dressed the same way. 

190. A Yarmouth Recipe to Cook Bloaters. 

" There was never a herring spake but one. 
And he said, Toast my back before you toast my bone." 

197. RizARD Haddocks. 

Rub them with salt inside and out ; hang them up in the 
open air for twenty-four hours, which is best done by 
running a skewer tlirough their heads which you support 
on two nails ; skin them, dust them with flour, and broil 
over a clear fire. They are excellent for brealvfast. 

198. Red Herrings 1 la Bruxelloise. 

Take a large sheet of the thickest white paper double, of 
which make a case large enough to contain eight her- 
rings ; butter it well inside and out that it may not 
bum ; then take eight of the best herrings, cut ofi' their 
heads and tails, skin them, take out the backbone, and 
divide them longitudinally into two fillets ; place them 
side by side in the case, and put between each a bit of 
butter mixed with fine herbs, some chopped mushrooms, 
parsley, a little shallot and green onions minced fine, a 
little pepper, and just a sprinlding of olive-oil ; powder 
them over the top with fine bread-crumbs, and lay the 
case on the gridiron over a very clear fire, taking every 



74 FISH. 

precaution to prevent their burning. When they are 
sufficiently done, which will be in about ten minutes, serve 
them in the case with a squeeze of lemon over them. 

199. Eed Herrings. 

Take off their heads and tails ; di^ade them from end to 
end ; take out the bone ; put them on a dish, and baste 
with oil. When ready to serve, turn them for a minute 
or two on the gridiron, and send to table immediately. 

200. Lobster au Gratin. 

Chop a middle-sized onion and put it in a stew-pan with 
two ounces of butter ; fry of a hght brown ; mix with it 
a small tablespoonful of flour ; pour over half a pint of 
milk, a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter one of pepper, and 
half that of cayenne, a little sugar, a very little nutmeg, 
and some chopped parsley. Boil a few minutes till rather 
thick ; put in your previously boiled lobster meat cut in 
pieces. Let it boil up ; add the yolk of an egg and a 
little cream, mix quickly ; fill the shells, egg and bread- 
crumb them ; put in an oven for ten minutes, pass a hot 
salamander over them, and serve. 



201. Crab au Gratin (American). 

Prepare the crab as usual, lay in the empty shell a layer 
of the soft part, then a layer of grated American crackers 
or biscuit ; over this lay the fleshy part of the crab, on 
which pour a spoonful of mushroom -ketchup ; add some 
chopped hard-boiled yolks of eggs. Season with a little 
salt, pepper, and cayenne ; cover all with the remainder 



FISH. 75 

of the soft part of the crab ; make it even -with a knife ; 
egg and bread-crumb it over, or grated biscuit may be 
used instead of bread-crumbs ; stick a few bits of butter 
on the top ; set it in the oven for twenty minutes or 
half an hour, and serve very hot. 

202. Partan Pie. 

Pick the meat after boiling out of the crab ; clean out 
the shell and mix the meat with a little salt, pepper, a bit 
of butter, and, if too liquid, a few bread-crumbs ; add 
three spoonfuls of vinegar, and put all into the shell 
again ; strew a few bread-crumbs over, and set it before 
the fire or in the oven. Brown with a salamander ; add 
a Httle cayenne, and serve. 

203. Curry of Lobster. 

Take them from the shells ; cut them in medium-sized 
pieces, and lay them in a saucepan with a small piece of 
ham, a blade of mace, cayenne pepper, and salt to your 
taste, four spoonfuls of veal gravy, and four spoonfuls of 
cream. Eub smooth together two teaspoonfuls of curry 
powder, a teaspoonful of flour, and a little cream. Add 
it to the sauce. Simmer an hour, and squeeze in the 
juice of half a lemon before serving. 

204. Curry of Cod 

Should be made of sliced cod that has either been crimped 
or sprinkled for a day with salt, to make it firm. Fry 
it with some onions in a pan till it is of a fine brown ; 
then put it in a stew-pan with some good veal gravy, a 



76 FISH. 

spoonful or two of curry powder, a bit of butter rolled 
in flour, and four spoonfuls of rich cream. Season to 
taste, with salt and cayenne. Stew it slowly till done. 
Serve with rice, or in a rice border. 

205. Kedgeree. 

Boil a breakfast-cupful of rice twenty minutes, and four 
eggs ten minutes. Take any kind of cooked white fish ; 
pull it in pieces ; take care there are no bones left ; 
chop the eggs very fine ; add three or four ounces of 
fresh butter ; season with salt and cayenne pepper 
(fresh green minced chilis are better). Beat the whole 
together, and serve as hot as possible. A little chutnee 
sauce eaten with it is a great improvement. 

206. Oysters Stewed (American Way). 

Take a dozen large oysters in their own liquor ; let 
them just boil ; add salt, pepper, a piece of butter the 
size of a nutmeg, and half a teaspoonful of chopped 
chervil. 

207. Another Aimerican Way. 

Open a dozen oysters ; put them in a small stew-pan 
with two grains of black pepper, a pinch of sugar, a little 
salt butter, and cayenne. Set them on the stove for 
three or four minutes ; give them just a slight boil, and 
put in a bit of butter the size of a walnut, which you 
have previously mixed with half a teaspoonful of flour. 
Shake the stew-pan round till it is melted ; put the pan 
again on the fire to simmer for a minute or two. Serve 
very hot on toast. Any quantity may be done in the 
same way. A little cream is an improvement. 



FISH. 77 

208. Oysters Stewed in their own Juice 
(Scotch). 

This is an excellent method of dressing them. Take the 
largest you can get ; wash them clean through their 
own juice ; lay them close together in a frying-pan ; 
sprinkle them with a little salt. Do not put one above 
another. Make them a fine brown on both sides. If 
one panful is not sufficient, do off more. Wheu they 
are all done, pour some of their liquor into the pan, 
mixing it with any that may be left from their cooking. 
Let it boil a minute or two. Pour it over the oysters, 
and serve very hot. 

209. To Pot Char or Trout. 

Three teaspoonfuls of black pepper and allspice mixed, 
two of mace, one each of cloves and nutmeg. Keep them 
well corked up in a small bottle ; when used add a little 
salt. This is a sufficient quantity for fourteen pounds of 
fish. Cut open the fish; clean them well with a dry cloth, 
bub do not wash. Remove the heads, tails, fins, and 
backbone ; then rub the spices well into them. Put 
them with the spices into a baking dish ; cover well 
with fresh butter, and place the dish in a slow oven, to 
remain till the bones are dissolved, which will take about 
five hours. Drain off the butter, and put the fish into 
pots ; press it down firmly, and pour a thin layer of 
fresh butter over the top. The trout should be red- 
fleshed, and not exceeding three-quarters of a pound in 
weight. Other fish, such as eels, sprats, etc., or shrimps 
and prawns, may be done in the same way. The spices 
must all be ground. 



78 FISH. 

I 

210. Method of Kippering Salmon. 

The largest fish are best. To twenty pounds of salmon 
put one and a half pounds of salt, one pound of raw 
sugar, and two ounces of saltpetre. Mix all well together. 
Wash the fish well in salt and water ; split it up the 
back, cut off" the head, and take out the backbone. Eub 
it well inside with the mixture ; lay it in a deep dish 
with the inside uppermost ; leave it in the pickle 
twenty-four hours ; then put a heavy weight on it ; 
press it for two days, or three if a large fish. Take it 
out of the pickle and hang it to dry in the sun. 



MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 



211. Salt Beef. 

To salt beef for immediate use, common salt, previously 
well dried at the fire, is better than any other pickle. 
The kernels should be carefully extracted, then sprinkle 
the meat well with salt, and six hours afterwards hang 
it up to drain. After it has drained, rub it thoroughly 
in every part with salt, and lay it in a salting-tub. 
Cover it over with a cloth saturated with the brine, and 
then with the cover, which should fit close to the tub. It 
must be turned and rubbed every day with the brine. 
A round of beef, of twenty-five pounds' weight, will 
require one and a half pound of salt, to be all rubbed 
in at first. Turned and rubbed every day, if not wished 
very salt, it may be eaten in four or five days. If you 
wish it red, rub it first with saltpetre, in the proportion 
of half an ounce and the same quantity of moist sugar 
to one pound of common salt. 

212. Baked Eound of Beef. 

If about fifteen pounds, hang it two or three days ; then 
rub in, being previously well pounded together, three 
ounces of saltpetre, one ounce of moist sugar, a quarter 
of an ounce each of black pepper, allspice, cloves, and 
mace, and a nutmeg grated, some minced sweet and 
savory herbs, and three quarters of a pound of common 



80 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 

salt. The bone should be taken out, and it should be 
turned and rubbed every day for a fortnight. When 
you dress it, put it into a pan with a quart of water ; 
cover the meat with three pounds of suet, shredded 
rather thick, and an ounce or two minced small ; then 
cover the whole with a flour crust to the brim of the 
pan, and bake in a moderate oven six hours. 

213. To Boil Beef. 

The slower it is done the better ; if boiled too quick at 
first, no art afterwards can make it tender. Half a 
round, of about fifteen pounds' weight, will take about 
three hours. Put plenty of cold water in with it, and 
carefully remove the scum as it rises. Let it boil till 
no more comes, then set the boiler on one side of the 
fire, and keep it simmering slowly till done. 

214. Sportsman's Beef. 

Take a large round of beef, three ounces and a half of 
saltpetre, one ounce of allspice, and a good pmcli of 
cayenne pepper ; rub it well in, and let it stand twenty- 
four hours. Then rub in thoroughly several handfuls of 
salt. Put it by for ten days, turning and rubbing in 
the salt every day. Then put it into a pan, with four 
pounds of shred beef-suet, dredge it lightly with flour, 
and bake in a slow oven for four or five hours 
according to the size. This will keep good in moderate 
weather as long as any remains of it. 

215. Beef Bouilll 
Take the sliort ribs of a breast of beef, and put them on 



MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 81 

to stew with a few turnips, carrots, onions, a head of 
celery, a clove of garlic, a few slices of leg of beef, a 
small piece of mutton or veal, and a little spice. Cover it 
with boiling water, and let it simmer slowly four or five 
hours, till the meat is as tender as possible. For sauce, 
take some cuUis or good rich gravy, a dessert-spoonful 
of chili vinegar, four or five gherkins minced fine, a 
tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, a little soy, and 
pepper and salt to your taste. Simmer all together a 
few minutes. When ready to serve, take the top skin 
off the bouilU, glaze it with a dark-brown glazing, and 
serve the sauce under the meat. 

216. Collared Beef. 

Choose the thin end of the flank of fine mellow beef, but 
not too fat. Lay it in a dish with salt and saltpetre ; 
turn and rub it every day for a week, keeping it in a 
cool place. Then remove all bone and gristle, and the 
skin of the inside part, and cover it with the following 
seasoning : — Cut small a large handful of parsley, the 
same of sage, some thyme, marjoram, pepper, salt, and 
allspice (and, if hked, a little garlic). KoU the meat up 
as tight as possible, and bind it first with a cloth and 
then with tape or packthread. Put the beef on in 
plenty of water, and let it boil gently seven or eight 
hours. ^Vhen done, put a heavy weight on while it is 
hot, without undoing the cloth, etc. It will, when cold, 
be of an oval shape. It should then be glazed on the 
outside. 

217. Dutch Beef. 

Take a lean piece of beef, rub it well with treacle or 
G 



82 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 

brown sugar ; let it lie three days, turning and rubbing 
it often, then wipe it ; salt it with salt and saltpetre 
beaten fine together, the salt having the largest propor- 
tion ; rub it well in every day for a fortnight, roll it tight 
in a coarse cloth, and press it under a heavy weight. 
Hang it to dry in wood smoke, turning it upside down 
every day ; when smoked enough, boil it in pump water 
and press it. To be eaten cold, cut, or grated. 

218. An Excellent Mode of Dressing Beef to 
EAT Cold. 

Hang three ribs of beef three or four days ; take out the 
bones and rub it well with salt, a little saltpetre, and 
bay salt, brown sugar, pepper, cloves, mace, and allspice, 
in fine powder. Let it lie for a fortnight, turning and 
rubbing it every day ; then put it into a baking-pan, and 
put some butter or suet on it ; cover it with a coarse 
crust, and bake slowly till as tender as possible. Tongues 
to eat cold are excellent done in the same way. 

219. Collared Ox Cheeks. 

The cheeks must be well washed and wiped dry. Salt 
them well with common salt for twenty-four hours ; take 
off the salt and lay them in a pan with the following 
mixture over them : — One ounce of saltpetre, the same 
of salprunella and of brown sugar. Let it remain three 
days, then take it off and stew the cheeks for three hours 
till the bones will draw out. Chop it while warm into 
small pieces; season it well with chopped herbs, pepper, 
and salt ; put it into a tin mould, which fill till it comes 
a little above the top ; put the cover on with heavy 



MEAT, POULTKY, GAME. 83 

weights over it, and press it down close. When quite 
cold turn it out, and it is ready to eat. 

220. Beef en Saucissons. 

Take two pieces of beef about double the size of your 
hand, and one finger thick; beat them to make them flat, 
trim them even ; take the parings and another bit of 
beef and mince very fine together with some parsley, 
a few sweet basil leaves, some small onions, two shallots, 
some mushrooms, salt, and whole pepper. Mix this 
forcemeat with four yolks of eggs, spread it upon the slices 
of beef, roll them up in the form of sausages, tie them 
and put them into a stew-pan on a slow fire, with a little 
broth, a glass of white w4ne, a little salt, some pepper, 
an onion with two cloves stuck in it, a carrot, and a 
parsnip. When well stewed pass the sauce through a 
sieve, take off the fat, reduce it till it is thick and rich. 
Put in the beef again, just bring it to a boil, and serve. 
It is good to eat cold. 

221. Beef en Papillotes. 

Take a rib of beef, shorten and trim it so that it is a pro- 
per size for your dish. Put it on a gentle fire with a 
pint of broth, a little salt, and wiiole pepper ; reduce it 
over a very gentle fire till it begins to stick to the beef ; 
then put it in a marinade of oil, parsley, a very little 
sweet basil, small onions, one shallot, and some mush- 
rooms, all minced very fine. Let it lie an hour, then put 
the beef and marinade into a large sheet of white paper ; 
plait it up all round the edge so that it may be entirely 
covered ; oil the paper on the outside ; place it on a 



84 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 

gridiron with another piece of oiled paper under it ; broil 
on both sides over a gentle fire, and serve in the paper. 



222. Shoulder of Mutton Marinade. 

Lay it for three days in a quarter of vinegar, with four 
ounces sliced, a handful of sweet herbs, and a small 
quantity of mace and cloves pounded ; lard it with bacon 
rolled in Jamaica pepper ; put it to bake with some of 
the liquor round it. When done serve with a rich gravy. 

223. Leg of Mutton a la Perigord. 

Take some truffles and bacon, cut them into pieces fit for 
larding, roll them in a little salt, spice, an onion, and a 
clove of garlic minced and well mixed together ; then 
lard the mutton with the bacon and truffles, wrap it in a 
paper, and keep it from the air for two days that it may 
acquire a good flavour of truffles. Stew it on a gentle 
fire v»^ith some slices of veal and bacon in its own gravy. 
When done enough skim the sauce, add a good spoonful 
of cullis, and serve. 

224. To Make a Haunch of Mutton eat like 

Venison. 

Mix two ounces of bay salt with half a pound of brown 
sugar; rub it well into the mutton, which should be 
placed in a deep dish for four days, and basted three or 
four times a day with the liquor that drains from it ; 
then wipe it quite dry, and rub in a quarter of a pound 
more sugar mixed with a little common salt, and hang 
it up haunch downwards; wipe it daily till it is used. In 



MEAT, rOULTRY, GAME. 85 

winter it should be kept three weeks, and roasted in 
paste Hke venison. Serve with currant jelly. 



225. EoAST Leg of Mutton. 

Cover it well with water, and bring it gradually to a 
boil ; let it simmer gently for half an hour, then lift it 
out and put it immediately on the spit ; roast it an hour 
and a quarter or a half, according to its size. Dressed 
in this way it is particularly juicy and tender, but there 
must be no delay in putting it on the spit after it is 
taken out of the water. It may be garnished with 
roasted tomatoes or potatoes, or served with haricots 
a la Bretonne round it. 



226. To Dress Eoedeer or Hare. 

Take the two haunches and the back ; take off the hard 
skin, lard the upper sides of the haunches with good fat 
bacon ; then put into a pint of vinegar some carrots, 
turnips, and onions sliced, parsley minced, pepper and 
salt. Mix all together, and boil for ten minutes. Wlien 
it is cold, lay the meat in a dish, and pour the pickle 
over it. Let it remain in the pickle for four days, 
turning it every day, and rubbing it well into the meat. 
When roasted, butter a large sheet of paper and tie it 
over the larded side. Three quarters of an hour is 
sufficient, with a good fire, to roast the haunches. For 
sauce, take a little of the pickle, a piece of butter rolled 
in flour, a teaspoonful of currant jelly, and a little good 
gravy. Boil all up together, and serve either round or 
in a sauce-boat. 



8Q MEAT, POULTEY, GAME. 

227. Cutlets of Mutton a la Mariniere. 

Cut your cutlets thick and short, put them in a stew- 
pan with a piece of butter about the size of half an egg; 
pass them on the fire till a little browned ; wet them 
with a glass of white wine, the same quantity of broth; 
add a dozen little white onions ; stew over a gentle fire 
for half an hour ; then add a pound of bacon, a carrot, 
and a parsnip, a small piece of savory, and parsley, all 
minced, a little salt and pepper, and a dessert-spoonful 
of vinegar. Stew till the cutlets are very tender and 
the sauce reduced. Lay the cutlets on the dish, the 
sauce and onions round, and the minced bacon and roots 
over them. 

228. COtelettes de Mouton en Eobe de Chambre. 

Stew them with broth, a very little salt, and a bunch of 
sweet herbs, quite slowly. When done tender, skim oif 
the fat, pass the broth through a sieve, set it on the fire 
again, and reduce to a glaze. Glaze your cutlets, and 
leave them to cool. Take a piece of veal, some beef- 
suet, two eggs, a little salt and pepper, parsley, onions, 
and mushrooms. Mash all fine together, moisten with a 
little cream ; roll each cutlet in this forcemeat, cover 
them with bread crumbs, lay them on a baking-tin, and 
place them in the oven till they are of a fine brown ; 
the oven should not be too hot. Serve with shallot 
gravy or other clear sauce. 

229. Beef-Steaks or Mutton-Chops. 
It is absolutely necessary, to make them good, that they 



MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 87 

should be cooked over a sharp red fire. The gridiron 
should be on the fire about two minutes before the chop 
or steak is laid on. They should be beaten a little 
beforehand, to set the meat and prevent it from shrink- 
ing, well seasoned with pepper and salt, and turned 
often to keep the gravy in the centre. Ten minutes 
will do a steak of half a pound weight, and about six 
minutes a chop. 

230. Mutton or La]\ib Chops au Feu. 

Cut them rather thin, mince an onion and some parsley 
leaves very fine, add some oil; rub the chops well with 
this, leave them to soak in it two hours, season with 
pepper and salt. Broil over a sharp fire, and serve 
immediately. 

231. Eelishing Cutlets or Steaks. 

Chop fine a tablespoonful of green pickled chilis, mix 
with two ounces of butter a little mustard and a spoon- 
ful of grated horseradish. The cutlets or steaks should 
be cut rather thick. Season them with salt, and spread 
the above mixture on both sides. Put them on a grid- 
iron over a sharp fi.re, turn them three or four times. 
Serve on a very hot dish, with the juice of half a lemon 
and a dessert-spoonful of walnut ketchup, 

232. Lamb Chops a la Boulangere. 

Cut and trim neatly cutlets enough for a small entree — 
say ten or twelve — season highly with salt and pepper 
and a little cayenne, dij) them gently in olive-oil and 
then in flour. Broil them over a slow fire. While they 



88 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 

are doing, put a gill of cream in a stew-pan, set it on tlie 
fire, and when boiling add two ounces of fresh butter, 
a tablespoonful of chopped chervil, the juice of half a 
lemon, and a little pepper and salt ; stir quickly till it 
forms a nice smooth sauce ; pour it over the cutlets 
when done, and serve quickly. Fillets of veal or 
rabbits are good done in this way. 

233. Mutton Cutlets aux Concombres. 

Take a neck of mutton, cut it into chops, and trim them 
nicely. Chop some parsley and shallot very fine, and put 
them in a little melted butter; dip the chops in this and 
then into bread-crumbs. Put them in the frying-pan, 
and fry of a fine light brown. Prepare two cucumbers 
by cutting them in four quarters, removing all the seeds ; 
cut them in oval shapes about an inch long ; boil them 
in half vinegar and water till tender. Make a sauce with 
the trimmings of the cutlets, some minced shallot and 
herbs; put the cucumbers into the sauce and make 
them very hot. Serve in the centre of the dish with the 
cutlets arranged round. 

234. Irish Stew. 

Four pounds of potatoes, and a pound and a half of 
mutton, six or seven good sized onions, and one carrot. 
Cut the meat in moderate sized pieces, if the breast or 
scrag end of the neck, or in cutlets. Add three pints 
of water ; stew very slowly till the potatoes are nearly 
done to a pulp ; a few more potatoes should be added about 
half an hour before it is ready to serve. Season with 
pepper and salt. This is enough for six or seven persons. 



MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 83 

235. Lamb Chops a l'Africaine. 

Cut a lamb chop or cutlet, broil over a very sharp fire, 
turning it continually ; when nearly done season highly 
with salt and pepper, and rub a spoonful of chutnee on 
both sides of each cutlet, put them again on the gridiron ; 
broil for another minute and serve. 

236. Lajmb's Head Stove. 

Wash and trim the head carefully, then put it on to stew 
in some good stock. When nearly done enough add a 
good quantity of spinach well washed and coarsely 
chopped ; tliicken the sauce with a little flour, and sea- 
son with pepper and salt. It will take rather more than 
an hour to stew ; two or three young onions minced and 
added is an improvement. Serve all together in a dee23 
dish. 

237. Lamb's Head and Fry. 

Skin the head and split it, take out the tongue and brains, 
wash and clean it, and the liver, heart, and lights, and 
lay the whole to soak in boihng water for half an hour ; 
then put on the head to boil, it will require a little more 
than three hours. While it is boiling take the fry and 
mince it very small, put it on to stew in a quart of veal 
broth ; add some minced parsley, a little ketchup, a 
spoonful of cream, a small piece of butter rolled in flour, 
and season with pepper and salt. When the head is 
sufficiently boiled brush it over with the yolk of an egg ; 
sprinkle it with chopped herbs and bread-crumbs, baste 
it with butter, and brown it in a Dutch oven or before 
the fire. Keep the mince hot while it is bro^vning, then 



90 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 

lay it in the dish with the head over, and garnish with 
the brains, and the tongue cut in half lengthways. They 
should be separately stewed in broth, and a little lemon- 
juice squeezed over the brains just before serving. 

238. Queues de Mouton. 

Take five mutton tails, j^ut them on a gentle fire with 
some broth, a bunch of parsley and small onions, half a 
clove of garlic, a bay-leaf, thyme and sweet basil, two 
cloves, and a little pepper and salt ; when thoroughly 
done take them out to drain and cool. Take six ounces 
of rice, wash it in warm water, strain what broth may be 
left from stewing the tails, if not enough add a little 
more broth, put in the rice and stew till it is quite tender ; 
when ready make a foundation of the rice on the dish 
you mean to serve it in, lay the mutton tails quite 
separate on the rice, cover them over with the remainder 
of the rice ; glaize the outside with an egg, put the dish 
into the oven with a tin cover over till the rice forms a 
crust, tilt the dish that any grease may drain off. Wipe 
the dish clean and serve very hot. 

239. Langues de Mouton. 

Blanch them, cut them longituiinally through the middle, 
and put them on the gridiron over a clear fire. When 
done enough serve with a sauce piquante. (See Sauces.) 

240. Emince of Mouton. 

Mince the meat of an uncooked loin of mutton with half 
a pound of the fat ; add a spoonful of salt, a teaspoon- 



MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 91 

ful of pepper, two large onions cut in dice, a pint of green 
peas, four cucumbers cut in dice, a lettuce, a sprig of 
thyme, and a quarter of a pound of butter, with four 
spoonfuls of water ; let all stew together for three hours, 
and serve with rice round. Celery or asparagus may 
be used instead of peas. 

241. Hashed Venison or Mutton. 

For gi'avy boil a part of the bone and trimmings of a 
cold haunch in a little water, season with peppercorns 
and salt. Strain and thicken it with a bit of butter 
rolled in flour ; add a glass of port wine, a tablespoonful 
of mushroom ketchup, and one of currant jelly. When 
hot add the venison cut in thin slices, heat it thoroughly 
and serve with sippets of toasted bread. Cold haunch 
of mutton may be dressed in the same way. 

242. Hashed Mutton 1 la Nell Gwyxne. 

Half a pint of mushroom ketchup, half a pint of white 
wine vinegar, half a dozen shallots sliced fine and stewed 
for two hours in this liquor; then put in a pound of 
previously parboiled collops of mutton, and stew gently 
till ready to serve. 

243. Beef k la Vinaigrette. 

Cut a slice of underdone boiled beef three inches thick, 
see that some fat is with it. Stew it in half a pint of 
water, a glass of white wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, an 
onion, and a bay leaf. Season it with pepper and three 
cloves pounded; let it stew till the liquor is nearly 
wasted, turning it occasionally. Strain off" what may be 



92 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 

left, to which add some vinegar, anl when the beef has 
become cold serve it with it for sauce. 

244. Hashed Mutton. 

Eub a little flour and butter in a stew-pan till brown, 
then add as much more butter as will make it the con- 
sistence of good cream, put in some chopped onions, let 
them stew till tender. Cut three slices of mutton lean and 
fat about an inch in size, put them into the sauce v/ith 
some pepper and salt, a spoonful of ketchup or Harvey, 
some chopped gherkins, or hot pickles. Make very hot 
and serve. 

245. touete de cotelettes de mouton a la 
Perigord. 

Take a neck of mutton, cut into short thick cutlets, and 
arrange them in your pie dish, or in a raised crust. Take 
as many middle-sized truffles as cutlets, peel and place 
between each cutlet ; season with a little salt and mixed 
spices, cover it with thin slices of bacon, and over that a 
layer of good butter about the thickness of a shilling, 
cover the whole in with pie crust, and bake for three 
hours. When done raise the top of your crust and pour 
in a glass of wine warmed, with two tablespoonfuls of 
cullis. Skim off" any grease with a spoon, and replace 
the crust. 

246. Perdreaux au Celery Blanc. 

Take three partridges, make a forcemeat of the livers 
and stuff* them with it; blanch them in a hot marinade 
for a few minutes. Spit them across, lay on them slices 



MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 93 

of bacon, cover them with paper, and roast them gently 
about twenty-five minutes. For your sauce take the 
white part of six or eight heads of C3lery, split them two 
or three times, and cut in pieces about an inch long, 
blanch them a few minutes in water, then boil them in 
good broth for an hour ; put in a bit of butter mixed 
with flour a liaison of four or five eggs beaten up with 
some cream, a little pepper and salt ; pour it into the 
sauce when it is boiling hot ; move it about for a minute 
on the stove, squeeze in a little lemon-juice. Take the 
partridges off the spit, and serve with this sauce over 
them. It is also excellent with boiled partridges, 
chicken, or pheasant. 

247. PouLETS Aux Petits Pois. 

Cut your chickens into pieces, put them into a stew-pan, 
with a pint of green peas, a bit of butter, a bunch of 
parsley, and some small onions ; set the pan for a minute 
or two on the fire, then add a good pinch of flour, and 
moisten sufficiently with half broth half gravy. Stew 
slowly till quite tender and reduced to the proper 
quantity. Just before serving, season with a small 
quantity of salt and a little sugar. 

248. Fricassee of Chicken. 

Parboil your chickens, skin them, cut them in pieces, 
and put them in a stew-pan with some strong broth, 
whole pepper, a blade of mace, a little salt, two anchovies, 
and a green onion. When nearly done, add half a pint 
of cream, a very little bit of butter mixed very smoothly 
in flour, and a teaspoonful of mushroom powder. Stir 



94 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 

over the fire till it thickens. Beat up the yolks of two 
eggs, mix them in carefully, add the juice of an orange 
or lemon, strain it oif, dish the chicken, and pour the 
sauce over. 

249. Another Fricassee. 

Skin your chickens, cut off the shanks and pinion bones, 
separate the legs, wings, and breast, break the leg bones 
with a rolling pin, remove the bones, put all the flesh 
into water, and blanch over a stove. AVhen this is 
done, put them again into cold water. When they have 
soaked a little while, take out and drain them, put them 
into a stew-pan, with a little melted bacon, a small piece 
of fresh butter, a bunch of herbs, an onion stuck with 
cloves, and some mushrooms. Season with salt and 
pepper. Toss all this up together over a stove, then 
moisten with half broth half water, and set it over a 
gentle fire. Beat up the yolks of four eggs in cream, 
and mix in it a little shred parsley, peas, or as23aragus- 
tops, or use it plain. Wlien the liquor is diminished 
enough, thicken it with the eggs and cream without 
removing it from the stove, and serve when sufficiently 
done. 

250. PouLETS A l'Estragon. 

Boil for a quarter of an hour a large pinch of tarragon 
leaves, throw them into cold water, press and hash 
them. Mix about a quarter of this with the chickens' 
livers minced, a little salt and pepper, and a bit of 
butter. Put this kind of forcemeat inside the chickens, 
cover the breasts with a slice of fat bacon or lard, and 
roast them in paper about twenty-five to thirty minutes. 
Put tlie rest of the hashed tarragon into a stew-pan, with 



MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 95 

a bit of butter the size of a large walnut rubbed in a 
little flour, two yolks of eggs, half a glass of gravy, two 
spoonfuls of good broth, a few drops of vinegar, some 
whole pepper, and salt. Thicken your sauce on the fire 
without letting it boil, lest the eggs should turn. Take 
the paper and bacon off your chickens, place them on a 
dish, and pour the sauce hot over them. 

251. Capilotade of Chicken. 

Cut up two chickens that have been either roasted or 
boiled previously, skin them, and put them into a stew- 
pan, with a piece of butter rolled in flour, set them on 
the fire for a few minutes, then pour a brown Italienne 
over (see Sauces), and let them simmer a quarter of an 
hour over a slow fire. Take care the sauce does not 
stick to the pan. Add to the sauce either capers or 
minced gherkins. Fry some thin slices of bread of a 
light-brown, glaze; then arrange them round the dish, 
with the chicken in the centre, and pour the sauce over. 

252. Matelotte de Petits Poulets. 

Cut up your cliickens as for a fricassee, legs and wings, 
pinions, and the breasts and backs, into two, put them 
into boiling water on the fire for two or three minutes, 
then place them in a stew-pan with a slice or two of 
ham, a ladleful of mixed veal gravy and cuUis, a bunch 
of onions and parsley, a little sweet basil, half a shallot, 
some pepper and salt ; stew all together gently for an 
hour. Then strain the sauce, add some more cullis, a few 
button mushrooms or sliced truffles, a squeeze of orange 
or lemon-juice ; dish the chicken, pour t]ie sauce over 



96 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 

and serve. This may be varied with peas or asparagus 
tops, instead of mushrooms or truffles. 

253. Cold Minced Chicken aux Fines Herbes. 

Mince some mushrooms and sweet herbs, add mace, 
pepper, lemon zest, and a little salt, two tablespoonfuls 
of cream, and a piece of butter. Stew them together 
till the whole are well cooked, then remove the herbs ; 
add the white meat of a cold chicken previously minced, 
some finely minced chervil and parsley, and the squeeze 
of a lemon. Just heat it thoroughly and serve with 
fried croustades of bread round it. 

254:. To Dress Cold Chicken, Veal, or Game. 

Cut them up and put them into a good well-seasoned 
stock, let it come to a boil, and then set it to simmer for 
half an hour ; add a small piece of butter rubbed in flour, 
a boned anchovy, a minced onion, and a small piece of 
shallot, a little salt and cayenne, and a tablespoonful of 
port wine. Let it stew together about ten minutes 
longer ; shake it frequently and it will be ready to serve. 

255. For an Aspic of Fillets of Chicken. 

First put a little aspic into the mould to acquire a sub- 
stance. When it is set cut some shapes of hard-boiled yolks 
and whites of eggs, truffles, gherkins, and beetroot ; when 
you have arranged all these decorations pour in some 
liquid aspic gently to settle all together, and put it in the 
mould on the ice to freeze, then arrange the fillets of 
chicken previously cooked, skinned, and cut in a good 



MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 97 

shape, neatly all round, pour in as much more aspic as 
will set the chicken, then put round and over the chicken 
some mayonnaise or Beurre de Montpellier, over this as 
much cold aspic as will cover it, otherwise the butter or 
sauce would dilute in the jelly and cause it to look 
muddy. Fill the mould now with the liquid aspic as 
full as it will hold and let it freeze. When ready to 
serve dip a cloth in hot water, ■svrap it round the outside 
of the mould, which will loosen it, and turn it out on the 
dish. 

256. L'Aspic FOR THE Above. 

Take a handful of aromatic herbs, such as burnet, chervil, 
and tarragon, boil them in white vinegar ; when the 
vinegar is well flavoured pour into the stew-pan some 
reduced consomme of fowl Season with salt and 
pepper and a little spice, then break the whites of four 
eggs into a pan, and whisk them well, pour the aspic on 
them, and put the whole again in a stew-pan on the fire, 
keep beating and stirring till the jelly gets white, it is 
then very near boiling, put it on the corner of the stove 
with a cover over it and a little fire on the to]) ; when quite 
clear and bright strain it through a jelly bag or sieve, 
and it is ready to use when wanted. 

257. Another Aspic. 

Put a knuckle of veal, a small part of a knuckle of ham, 
and some trimmings of fowl or game into a small stock- 
pot, with onions, carrots, a bunch of sweet herbs, pepper 
and salt ; pour over half a bottle of white -vvine and 
some good broth ; let it boil gently for four hours, then 
skim off all the fat and strain it through a silk sieve ; 

H 



98 MEAT, POULTRY, GAIMK 

put it into a stew-pan with two spoonfuls of tarragon 
vinegar, four whites of eggs, and if you think it requires 
it, some more pepper and salt. Stew it on the fire till 
it becomes very white, then set it on one side with 
a little fire over the cover, when you find it clear drain 
it through a jelly bag. If this is required for garnishing 
raised pies or galantine, the vinegar may be omitted. 

258. Mayonnaise de Perdreaux. 

Eoast three partridges, leave them to cool, cut them in 
pieces, put them in a pan with four shallots, a little tarra- 
gon and burnet minced, four spoonfuls of oil, three large 
ones of broken aspic jelly, a little pepper and salt, and a 
large spoonful of tarragon vinegar. Mix all well together, 
dish the partridges, putting the breasts and backs at the 
bottom, and the other pieces round, cover with a good 
mayonnaise (see Sauces), and garnish with aspic jelly, or 
beurre de Montpellier. Chicken can be done the same. 

259. Scollops of Fowl 1 l'Essence de Concombres. 

Take the white-meat of three fowls, and cut it into 
scollops the size of a half-crown piece, put them into a 
frying-pan with a little butter, and fry them on both 
sides over a brisk fire for a few minutes, taking care 
they do not brown. Cut four or five cucumbers into 
slices, the same shape and size ; put them into a basin 
with a little salt and half a glass of vinegar, let them soak 
in this one hour, then drain them on a napkin, and put 
them into a stew-pan with a small piece of butter ; let 
them fry a little w^ithout colouring, sprinkle a spoonful 
of flour over them, add sufficient broth to cover them 



MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 99 

\vell, a small bit of sugar, and a bundle of parsley and 
green onions. When the cucumbers are sufficiently- 
done, lay them on a dish covered over till you want them. 
Take the parings, fry them in a stew-pan with a little 
butter, add the sauce in wliich you have boiled the 
cucumbers, skim off all the butter and fat, reduce the 
sauce till it is quite thick, add all the juice that may 
have escaped from the cucumbers in stewing them, and 
three spoonfuls of bechamel ; rub the whole through a 
tammy. Now put into the same the scollops of chicken 
and the cucumbers, add a little salt, and, if the sauce is 
too thick, a spoonful of double cream. Heat all 
thoroughly, and serve, garnished with small forms of 
light pastry round the dish. 

260. Turkey aux Trutfes. 

Put two dozen peeled truffles into godiveau or forcemeat, 
and fill the breast of the turkey ; let it remain in for 
a week before it is roasted ; serve with sauce aux 
trufifes. Pheasants or fowl may be done in the same 
vray. 

261. Une Dinde Eotie Parfaite. 

Cover the turkey with slices of bacon and white paper ; 
just before it is quite done take off both bacon and 
paper, that it may get a nice brown. Stuff it with fifty 
chestnuts, a little sausage meat, and two pounds of 
truffles. A turkey requires about forty-five minutes to 
roast. 

262. Turkey Legs. 
Take a sweetbread, clean and scald it, cut it in square 



100 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 

pieces the size of dice, cut some mushrooms as nearly as 
possible the same shape ; put them into a saucepan, with 
some grated bacon, parsley, small onions, shallot, and 
sweet basil, minced fine, some coarse pepper, and the 
yolks of two eggs ; shake them well together. Take 
two raw turkey legs, remove the bones, leaving just a 
little bit at the end for show. Stuff the legs with 
the sweetbread, etc. ; sew them up, so that nothing can 
come out. Put them to stew in a glass of good broth, 
one of white wine ; add a bunch of parsley and small 
onions, and a little salt. Cover with slices of bacon, and 
stew over a gentle fire. When done, and but little sauce 
remains, skim it, take off the bacon and the bunch of 
parsley, add two spoonfuls of cullis, and thicken with 
yolk of an egg, and serve just before sending to table. 
Squeeze over the legs a little orange-juice. 

263. Pigeons a la Tartare. 

Singe your pigeons, truss them as for boiling, flatten 
them with a cleaver on the dresser as thin as you can 
without breaking the skin of the breast or back ; season 
them with pepper and salt, dip them in melted butter, 
and dredge them with grated bread-crumbs. Broil them 
on a gridiron half an hour before you want them, turning 
them often, and broiling them thoroughly. Make the 
sauce as follows : — Mince a spoonful of parsley very fine, 
a shallot or a piece of onion, two spoonfuls of pickles, and 
a boned anchovy ; mince all separately very fine, then 
squeeze over them the juice of a lemon, add half a 
spoonful of water, six spoonfuls of oil, and a little pepper; 
mix all these ingredients together, and just as you are 



MEAT, POULTRY, GAI\IE. 101 

going to serve, rub in a spoonful of mustard. Put the 
sauce into the dish and the pigeons over it, and serve. 

2G4. POULETS A LA TaRTARE. 

Cut the chicken in half, singe it over the fire, marinade 
it with a little melted butter, one clove of garlic, two or 
three small onions, some parsley and mushrooms, all 
hashed together, a little pepper and salt. Cover it with 
bread-crumbs, and boil over a sharp fire. Serve with a 
tartare or piquante sauce (see Sauces). Grouse is excel- 
lent dressed in the same way. 

265. To Stew Old Partridges. 

Put them in a stew-pan, with a little salt, pepper, a 
bunch of parsley, small onions, thjTiie, two bay leaves, some 
sweet basil, a clove of garlic, and as much broth as will 
cover them. Stew gently over a slow fire till all the broth 
is exhausted ; let them brown just a little, and cerve with 
a sauce poivrade (see Sauces). 

266. Salmi of Grouse or Partridge. 

Cut them in joints, put the trimmings with some stock 
into a stew pan, boil it an hour, strain and skim off the 
fat, thicken with brown roux, put in a little onion and 
shallot minced fine, put it on to boil again. A little be- 
fore serving put in the game ; season with salt and 
pepper, and make it very hot ; if for boiled duck add a 
glass of port wine, and the squeeze of a lemon. 

267. Fillets of Turkey. 
Cut the breast of a turkey in collops, put some broth of 



102 MEAT, POULTRY. GAME. 

veal into a stew-pan, with an onion and a bunch of sweet 
herbs. Let it boil rather more than half an hour; strain 
and thicken it with white roux and a little cream ; beat 
up the coUops in this ; add salt and pepper, and the 
squeeze of a lemon. A little finely-minced parsley may 
be added. 

268. Jugged Hare. 

Cut the hare in moderate-sized pieces, wash it and put 
it into a stone jar, just large enough to hold it, with a 
bunch of sweet herbs, some lemon-peel, a large onion 
with five cloves stuck in it, a quarter of a pint of port or 
claret wine, and the juice of a lemon ; tie the top of the 
jar down with a bladder, so that no steam may escape ; 
put the jar into a saucepan of boiling water sufficiently 
deep to cover it ; keep the water boiling nearly three 
hours. Take it out, strain the gravy from the fat, and 
thicken it with flour and give it a boil up ; lay the hare 
on the dish, and pour the sauce over it. Serve with 
currant jelly. 

269. Canard a la Bearnoise. 

Stew a duck in a little broth, half a glass of white wine, 
a bunch of parsley, thyme, sweet basil, and small onions, 
two bay leaves, and two cloves. Put into another stew- 
pan seven or eight large onions cut in slices and a bit of 
butter ; pass them on the fire, turning often till they get 
a colour ; then add a good pinch of flour ; moisten with 
the liquor the duck was stewed in ; stew the onions and 
reduce the sauce ; skim off the fat, and add a squeeze of 
lemon or a few drops of vinegar, pour it over the duck, 
and serve. 



MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 10* 



270 Canard a Puree Yerte. 

Take rather more than a pint of green pease, boil them 
in a little broth, and rub them smooth through a sieve ; 
stew a duck in broth, with salt, whole pepper, half a 
clove of garlic, some small onions, parsley, thyme, basil, 
and bay leaves. AVlien done enough, pass the sauce 
through a sieve, and add it to the puree of peas ; re- 
duce the whole to a good consistency, about that of thick 
cream. Serve the duck with the puree over it. 

271. Kagout of Duck. 

Half-roast the duck and cut it into joints, put it into a 
stew-pan with a pint and a half of broth, a large onion 
with four cloves stuck in it, a little whole allspice and 
black peppercorns, and the rind of half a lemon cut 
thin ; when it boils, skim it well ; then put the lid on the 
saucepan, and let it simmer an hour and a half Put 
into another stew-pan two ounces of butter, and work 
into it as much flour as will make a stiff paste ; strain 
the sauce from the duck to this, mixing it by degrees ; 
when it boils, add a glass of port wine, a squeeze of 
lemon, and a spoonful of salt. Put the duck, which you 
will have kept very hot, into the dish, and strain the 
sauce over. Serve with sippets of fried bread. 

272. Salmi de Lecassines. 

Take three woodcocks or four snipes, divide them, cut 
them in joints — the breast and backs in two pieces — lay 
them aside on a plate, and in the dish on which the birds 



104 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 

were cut, and which ought to he of silver, hreak up the 
livers and trail of the birds ; squeeze over them the juice 
of four lemons ; add the peel of one minced very fine ; 
then place the birds on the dish, seasoned with a few 
pinches of salt, a little white pepper, nutmeg, and cay- 
enne, two spoonfuls of French mustard, and half a glass 
of white wine. Put the silver dish over a spirit lamp ; 
keep moving each piece that the seasoning may penetrate 
and mix properly. Do not allow it to boil, but just as it 
comes to it put out the lamp, sprinkle with a little good 
olive-oil, keep stirring it for a minute or two, and serve 
instantly that it may be as hot as possible. All sorts of 
game is good dressed in this way. 

273. Salmi of Woodcock. 

Cut in pieces two woodcocks, previously half roasted ; 
put them into a stew-pan, with three quarters of a pint 
of gravy, an onion with two or three cloves stuck in it, 
an anchovy, a piece of butter rolled in flour, a little cay- 
enne, and salt to taste ; simmer for about a quarter of an 
hour, but do not let it boil ; then put in a glass of red 
wine and a squeeze of lemon. The livers and trails 
should be bruised in the sauce. Serve very hot. 



274. Salmi of Duck. 

Cut off the fillets of roasted duck, and the rest of it in 
pieces ; mix salt and cayenne pepper together : sprinkle 
it over them ; add half a wine glass of olive-oil, a glass 
of claret, and the juice of two Seville oranges ; shake it 
vv^ell over the fire till very hot, and serve. 



MEAT, rOULTRY, GAME. 105 

275. Salmi of Partridge. 

Prepare three partridges, lard and roast them, let them 
bo underdone; when cold cut them m pieces, take off the 
skin, pare and arrange them in a stew-pan with a little 
good broth ; set the pan on hot cinders, do not let it 
boil immediately; add six shallots and a little lemon-peel, 
also four large spoonfuls of reduced espagnole. Let it 
stew down to half the quantity, pass the sauce through 
a tammy, drain the partridges, and dish with a slice of 
fried bread between each piece ; pour the sauce round, 
and squeeze over them a little lemon-juice. 

27G. Salmi Chaud-frgid. 

Prepare the salmi as above. A quarter of an hour be- 
fore serving take the partridges out and add to the sauce 
a large spoonful of aspic jelly. Put the stew-pan in ice 
and shake it well till it takes, then dip each piece of 
partridge in separately that the sauce may adhere all 
over ; dish them, pour the remainder of the sauce over, 
garnish with aspic and serve. Fricassee of chicken 
treated in the same way makes chaud-froid de poulet. 

277. Salad of Grouse. 

Eoast a young grouse ; when cold cut it in eight pieces ; 
put into a deep dish or salad bowl some fine white lettuce, 
celery, mustard, and cress, etc. ; lay the grouse on it, and 
four hard boiled eggs cut lengthways. Put into a basin 
a tablespoonful of finely-chopped shallot, one of parsley, 
one of pounded sugar, the yolks of two raw eggs, a tea- 
spoonful of salt, quarter of a one of pepper, two table- 



106 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 

spoonfuls of cliili vinegar, and four of oil. Mix all well 
together; whip half a pint of cream, which add by degrees 
to the sauce, and pour over the salad; do not mix it till 
you help it. 

278. Salmi de Chasseur. 

Eoast three partridges as for other salmis ; put into a 
stew-pan three spoonfuls of oil, half a glass of claret, or 
other red wine, salt and pepper, cayenne, and the juice 
and zest of a lemon ; put in the partridges previously 
cut up, toss them over the fire in this sauce till they are 
very hot, and serve. 

279. Salmi a l'Ancienne. 

Prepare three partridges, lard and roast them, let them 
be underdone ; when cold cut them in pieces, take off 
the skin, pare and arrange them in a stew-pan, pour over 
a little stock, and set them to simmer ; add six shallots 
and a little lemon-peel, also four large spoonfuls of re- 
duced espagnole (see Sauces), let it reduce half, pass the 
sauce through a tammy. Take the trimmings and parings 
of the partridges, moisten them with a little of the sauce, 
pound them in a mortar as fine as possible, and rub 
through a tammy ; pour this puree over the partridges 
in the stew-pan, heat it in a bain toarie, arrange the 
salmi in a dish with fried croutons of bread between 
each piece, and pour the sauce very hot round. 
Pheasant is excellent dressed the same way, but should 
have the addition of a glass of red or white wine, 
the juice and a small bit of the peel of a Seville 
orange. 



MEAT, POULTllY, GAME. 107 

280. Lapereaux aux Fines Herbes. 

Cut two rabbits or leverets in pieces, trim and put them 
into a stew-pan with some butter, salt, and pepper; some 
parsley, shallot, and mushrooms all minced. Pass them 
over the fire for a quarter of an hour, squeeze a lemon over 
them, and serve. 

281. To Roast Gaj\ie. 

No game can be good that is not carefully roasted and 
thoroughly well basted. It is more tender if cooked imme- 
diately than if kept a night ; burying it in the ground for 
a few hours if required to eat immediately makes it more 
tender ; about three days is the best time to keep it. 
Ducks should be roasted but a short time, and basted 
Avith their own drippings, a little butter, and port wine. 
Partridges will require about twenty minutes, grouse 
twenty-five, snipe and woodcocks fifteen ; the latter 
should have buttered paper over them till they are nearly 
done, it is better than bacon, which spoils their flavour ; 
a hare requires about an hour, and should be basted with 
cream and dredsred with flour. 

o 

282. To Roast Grouse. 

Two brace of birds will require a pound of fresh butter 
to baste them ; the butter should be put in a basin and 
allowed to melt before the fire. The birds should not 
be placed too near the fire at first, and should be basted 
soon after they are put down, and this should be con- 
tinued without intermission till they are ready to serve. 
If you wish to serve them English fashion with a gravy, 
you must make it from grouse, as all meat gra\y would 



108 :\IEAT, POULTRY, GAxME. 

spoil this bird ; while they are roasting thin slices of 
crisp toast should be placed to receive the drippings, and 
a piece placed under each bird when served. In the 
Scotch fashion make some toast like buttered toast, crisp 
it before the fire, place it under the birds, and serve with 
thin melted butter. All should be very hot. 

283. The Admiral's Curry. 

Put about an ounce of butter into a stew-pan, and as 
soon as it is hot slice into it four onions, some carrots 
and turnips ; let them brown over a sharp fire, and rub 
through a tammy. Wlien done sufficiently, then add 
some good veal stock to the sauce, a teaspoonful of curry 
powder, and one of curry paste, also a dessert-spoonful 
of chutnee. Mix all this well together with a wooden 
spoon for about ten minutes ; now put in whatever meat 
you choose — rabbit, fowl, or fish — cut in rather small 
pieces ; stew over a smart fire, adding occasionally a 
little weak broth or milk that the curry may not get 
too dry. Let all simmer together, and an excellent cun y 
wiU be the result. Milk is considered a great improve- 
ment to curry, either sweet or butter milk ; if the 
former is used, a little lemon-juice should be added to 
it. In India fresh tamarinds are used with it. The 
sauce from pickled mangoes is a great improvement ; it 
should not be put into the sauce, but eaten with the 
curry. 

284. To EoiL THE Rice. 

Throvv^ the rice, having first well washed it, into boiling 
water ; there must be enough quite to cover it. Let it 
boil exactly sixteen minutes, but not too fast. A^Hien 



MEAT, POULTKY, GAME. 109 

done sufficiently, and while still boiling, dash some cold 
water into the pot, and immediately remove it from the 
fire, tlirow the rice into the colander to drain ; cover 
it with a napkin, and w^ien all the water has completely 
drained from it serve. 

N.B. — The dash of cold water has the effect of sepa- 
rating the grains of rice. 

285. The General's Curries. — A Dry Curry. 

Two or three common-sized onions to be sliced and fried 
brown in a little butter, and then worked into a paste 
^vith water, a tablespoonful of curry powder, and a little 
salt. Cut up the fowl, meat, or fish, add it, and stir up 
the whole without ceasing till the meat is thoroughly 
cooked. 

286. A Wet Curry. 

Cut the meat, fowl, or fish into small pieces ; put them, 
with a piece of butter and two or three onions sliced, 
into a stew-pan ; fry them till brown. "When nearly 
done, add a tablespoonful of the curry powder and some 
salt, and simmer the whole gently, with a little water or 
broth, until it is sufficiently cooked. Eemember to keep 
constantly stirring. 

287. To Boil the Eice. 

Put two quarts of water in a stew-pan, with a table- 
spoonful of salt ; when boiling add half a pound of rice, 
well washed. Boil for about ten minutes till the grains 
become rather soft. Drain into a colander. Slightly 
grease the pot with butter, and put the rice back into it. 



110 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 

Let it swell slowly for twenty minutes, either near the 
fire or in a slow oven. Each grain will then swell and 
be well separated, when it is ready to serve. 



288. Curry Powder. 

Coriander seed, well washed - - - 8 cz. 

Turmeric - - - - - -9„ 

Dried ginger - 8 „ 

Black pepper - - - - - 6 „ 

Dried chilis - - - - - - 2|- „ 

Cardamoms - - - - - -4„ 

Cinnamon - - - - - -4„ 

GarHc - - - - - - -1„ 

289. Bengal Curry Powder. 

Black pepper -, - - - - 5 oz. 

Cayenne pepper - - - - - 1 „ 

Coriander seed - - - - -13 „ 

Fenugreek seed - - - - - 3 „ 

Cummin seed - - - - - 3 „ 

Turmeric - - - - - -10 „ 

290. The Professor's Curry. 

Take a good handful of onions sliced, and put them, with 
two ounces of butter, into a stew-pan ; let them stew 
till quite soft, then fry them very brown and take them 
out of the butter. Cut whatever meat you intend to 
curry into small pieces, put them into the butter, and 
fry them brown also. Then take them out, and put in 
two teaspoonfuls of curry powder, and fry it till all the 



MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. Ill 

butter is absorbed. Now put back the onions and meat 
into the pan with the curry powder, and pour sufficient 
milk over the whole to cover it, squeeze m a little lemon- 
juice, add a spoonful of salt, and let the whole stew very 
gently till all the liquid is absorbed, and like a paste 
over the meat. It is essential that this curry be cooked 
in a stew not a frying pan. Buttermilk may be used if 
preferred ; in that case leave out the lemon-juice. 

291. To Boil the Rice. 

It should first be weU washed, and then put into plenty 
of water, not less than a quart to a quarter of a pound 
of rice. This may be either hot or cold. It must be 
boiled as fast as possible, and will require about twenty 
minutes. When the water assumes a white appearance 
it is usually done enough ; but the rice should be tried 
to be sure it is soft. Pour the water off, and lay the 
rice on a sieve to drain, covered over with a cloth. As 
soon as all the moisture is absorbed it is ready to serve, 
and should be quite soft, and each grain separate. 

292. The Baronet's Curry. 

Take a young fowl and divide it as for a fricassee, re- 
moving all the skin and fat; mix a teaspoonful of cayenne 
pepper with two tablespoonfuls of curry powder ; rub it 
well into the fowl. Cut eight large-sized onions into 
shreds ; put a quarter of a pound of butter into a clean 
frying-pan, and set it over a clear fire ; take great care 
that the butter neither burns nor oils. As soon as it is 
well browned, put the fowl into it, keeping it on the fire 
and turning it frec[uently with a fork till it is well 



112 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 

browned on both sides. Have ready a stew-pan which 
has been previously heated ; place the fowl in it, and put 
the onions into the frying-pan till they are browned ; 
then add them to the fowl in the stew-pan, with a quarter 
of a pint of new milk, twenty almonds blanched and 
pounded, the juice of one lemon, a little salt, and a wine- 
glassful of fresh sorrel-juice ; put the stew-pan on a gentle 
fire, and let it simmer, but not boil, for an hour and a 
half, frequently shaking it. Serve very hot. 

293. Curry Powder for the Above. 

The best turmeric six ounces, coriander seed ten ounces, 
cummin seed two ounces, well pounded and sifted to- 
gether. Cayenne and black pepper to be added to taste 
when the curry is made. 

294. To Boil the Rice. 

Wash the rice thoroughly in cold water ; have some water 
boiling very fast (there should be plenty of it), and throw 
the rice in ; boil about a quarter of an hour. To ascertain 
if it is done enough, rub a grain in your fingers, if it goes 
quite down, it is done enough ; strain it into a colander ; 
pour a cup of cold water over it, and put it back into a 
covered saucepan near the fire till ready to serve. 

295. RiJBBITS A LA PROVENgALE. 

Cut the rabbits in pieces ; put them in a stew-pan with 
some good olive-cil, salt and pepper, and some onions cut 
in slices ; fry them of a light brown ; take them out and 
dry them on a cloth. Then return the rabbits and onions 



MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. ] 13 

to the stew-pan with the addition of a clove of garlic 
minced fine, a small spoonful of espagnole, and some 
tomato sauce, and stew until sufficiently done. 

296. Hare or Rabbit Hashed or Stewed. 

Cut them in pieces (the stew-pan should be flat, so that 
each piece may touch the bottom) ; heat the pan, then 
put in about half a spoonful of lard ; place the pieces of 
hare or rabbit in the pan, so that each piece touches it; 
as soon as they begin to brown sprinkle them with two 
handfuls of flour (they should be browned on both sides) ; 
add a few small onions ; let the pan remain five minutes 
over a moderate fire, then pour over a pint of boiling 
water ; season with salt and pepper, two cloves, three 
allspice, and a bit of garlic about the size of a pea, two 
bay leaves, and a small bunch of parsley. Let the whole 
simmer slowly nearly an hour and a half ; now add to 
the whole, half a bottle of good claret, and continue to 
simmer for two hours longer, when it will be ready to 
serve. Care must be taken not to have too much fire, or 
it will become dry. 

297. Filets de Lievre en Poivrade. 

Take a hare that has been already roasted, cut the meat 
into fillets ; if you have not enough to fill your dish you 
may leave the bones in, otherwise the meat alone is best. 
Place it in a stew-pan with some sauce poivrade (see 
Sauces) ; make it very hot, but do not let it boil, and 
serve with sippets of fried toast. 



114 MEAT, POULTKY, GAME. 

298. BOUDINS OF Eabbit. 

Boil the rabbit well ; pick the meat from the bones ; 
pound it very fine in a mortar with a small piece of 
butter; add a little good gravy, a little parsley, and 
sweet herbs ; season with pepper and salt ; add a few 
bread-crumbs and three eggs ; beat it up well. You 
may cook them in cups or timbale moulds. Butter and 
flour them first. Put in the boudins, and steam them 
about three-quarters of an hour. Turn them out, and 
serve with a rich bechamel. If you have rabbits enough, 
use only the white meat. 

299. Quenelles of Chicken. 

Take the breast of a fowl and scrape all the meat from 
the sinews, the same quantity of suet and shred it very 
fine. Put it in the mortar and pound as smooth as pos- 
sible ; then take the crumb of a penny roll, wet it in milk, 
add it to the meat in the mortar, and pound a little 
more ; rub it through a fine sieve, return it to the mortar, 
and mix it thoroughly, first with one whole egg, and then 
with the white of another; season it with salt and pepper 
to taste, take it out with a tablespoon, smooth it over 
the top, and put each into a stew-pan with as much broth 
or water as will cover them. Ten minutes is sufficient to 
cook them. Serve with a bechamel sauce. 

300. Quenelles aux Trufees. 

Boil a young fowl, skin it, scrape all the white meat clear 
from sinews, pound it very fine in a mortar, soak some 
crumb of light bread either in broth or milk, boil a calf's 



MEAT, POULTKY, GAME. 115 

udder and pound that smooth also ; mix all well to- 
gether ; season it with pepper and salt ; add three eggs 
and some minced truffles ; mix well. Have ready some 
boiUng water ; take up a tablespoonful of the mixture, 
smooth it over, throw into the water, and poach Hke an 
egg. Serve with a strong clear gravy. 

301. Veal Cake (Cold). 

Take a breast of veal ; bone it and cut it into three parts ; 
season it with cayenne pepper, white pepper, nutmeg, 
mace, cloves, and salt ; mince a good quantity of parsley 
with two anchovies fine, and strew it over. Boil four 
eggs hard, cut them in halves ; cut some lean bacon half 
an inch thick ; put a large slice of butter in a basin, then 
a piece of veal, stew it with the parsley, and lay over half 
the eggs, then sHces of bacon, and so on till the basin is 
full. Lay the bones on the top to prevent it from get- 
ting dry; put it in a moderate oven for four hours. AVhen 
you take it out, remove the bones, and lay a weight on 
to press it ; make it solid ; garnish with aspic-jelly and 
parsley, and eat it with any cold sauce you like, or vine- 
gar, mustard, and sugar. 

302. Blanquette of Yeal a la Paysanne. 

Roast a neck or loin of veal ; when cold, cut it into 
collops ; season well, and put it into a stew-pan with 
some sauce tournee (see Sauces), some finely -chopped 
parsley, and the juice of half a lemon. Reduce the 
sauce, and thicken with the yolk of an egg. Serve very 
hot. 



116 meat, poultry, game. 

303. Tendons de Yeau a la Eavigote. 

Stew the tendons very tender in broth ; let them cool, 
turn them, arrange them neatly in your dish, and pour 
over a cold ravigote. Border the dish with beurre de 
MontpelKer or aspic. 

304. Veal Cutlets. 

Take a leg of veal, cut the cutlets a neat size and shape, 
and beat them flat ; strew over them a little black pepper 
and salt ; beat up an egg with a little minced parsley and 
shallot ; dip the cutlets into this, and then into bread- 
crumbs, and fry them a good brown. Serve with shallot- 
gravy or sauce piquante. 

305. Macaroni Pie. 

Bone a fowl and cut it into quarters ; blanch it, boil it 
tender with a few onions, thicken the gravy with the 
yolk of an egg. Wash the macaroni clean ; boil it for a 
quarter of an hour ; have about two ounces of Parmesan 
cheese grated ; mix all together with pepper, salt, and a 
little good butter ; then put it into a raised paste, and 
bake in a sharp oven for one hour. 

306. Chicken Pie aux Feuilletages. 

Cover the bottom of the dish or pattypan with a light 
paste ; cut your chickens as for a fricassee ; lay them in 
and season with pepper, salt, and a bit of mace ; put in 
a little bundle of green onions and parsley tied, and two 
spoonfuls of broth ; cover with thin slices of bacon ; put 



MEAT, rOULTKY, GAME. 117 

the lid on neatly, and bake it about an hour and a half. 
Before serving, take off the top, remove the bacon and 
herbs, and skim off any fat. Have ready a ladleful of 
cullis, with some asparagus points or peas boiled ; add 
the juice of a lemon, make it boiling hot, pour over the 
chickens, and serve. Young rabbits are good dressed in 
the same way. 

307. Yeal Pie. 

Take the middle or scrag of a small neck, cut it into nice 
pieces, season with pepper and salt. Lay in the bottom 
of the pie-dish some slices of ham or bacon ; then the 
veal and some hard-boiled yolks of eggs, a little minced 
parsley and green onions, and two spoonfuls of veal stock. 
Cover with a good puff paste, and bake about an hour 
and a half. 

308. Partridge Pie, raised. 

Bone as many partridges as you will require for the size 
of the pie. Put inside a whole peeled raw truffle, and 
enough forcemeat to fill each. Make your raised pie- 
crust in a mould, lay a few thin slices of veal at the bottom 
and a layer of forcemeat, then the partridges ; fill up the 
corners with truffles, cover over with slices of fat bacon, 
then with paste, and bake for four hours. It should be 
eaten cold. The forcemeat in the following receipt should 
be used. 

309. Perigord Pie. 

Take eight small fat chickens, bone them; make forcemeat 
of half a pound of liver — fowl's, calves', or lamb — a piece 
of veal and a small bit of ham, a little salt, some pepper. 



118 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 

two boned anchovies, a very little allspice, and some cay- 
enne pepper, a little fresh chopped suet, and the yolks of 
eight eggs. Pound them all very fine in a stone mortar ; 
stuff the chickens quite full, put them in the pie, and fill 
up all the spaces above and below with the stuffing. 
Truffles are a great improvement, and should be added 
both whole and minced with the forcemeat when they can 
be procured. All sorts of game make a good pie in this 
way. It should be eaten cold, and baked in a raised pie- 
crust between four and five hours 

310. Lark Pie. 

Season the larks with pepper and salt, fill them with 
forcemeat, put them in a raised paste with forcemeat 
under and over, bake them one hour. Pour culHs or 
brown sauce over them when done. 

311. Sheep's Head Pie (Scotch). 

Take a sheep's head and feet with the skin on ; singe them 
till quite black, put them into warm water and scrape 
them clean ; open the head, take out the brains, and put 
the head and trotters in a saucepan with a little water, an 
onion, a bay leaf, a little parsley, two cloves, and some 
salt. Stew six or seven hours. Take out the bones, and 
put the meat in a pie-dish ; reduce the liquor they were 
stewed in ; strain and pour over the meat. Let it get 
quite cold, then cover it with a puff-paste, and bake it till 
the crust is well browned. It is best eaten cold. 

312. Hare Pie (Scotch). 
Cut a hare in neat pieces ; put it into a saucepan with 



MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 119 

3nougli water to cover it, two or three onions, a carrot, 
and a bay leaf ; stew it till tender, then place it in a pie- 
dish with its o"\vn liquor strained, and two glasses of port 
wine ; season with pepper and salt, cover with a good 
puff-paste, and bake about an hour in an oven that is not 
very hot. 

313. Calf's Head Pie (Scotch). 

Scald and soak the head, and simmer for half an hour in 
a little water, with a knuckle of veal, the rind of a lemon, 
two onions, a faggot of parsley and winter savory, a few 
white peppercorns, and two blades of mace. Take up the 
head, and, when cold, cut into bits of different shapes. 
Skin and cut the tongue into square pieces. Boil the 
broth in which the head and knuckle was simmered with 
a few bits of isinglass till it is reduced to a strong jelly 
gravy. Place a layer of thin shces of lean ham at the 
bottom of the pie-dish, then some of the head and tongue, 
a little forcemeat made from the Imuckle, hard yolks of 
eggs cut in two ; season with white pepper, salt, a very 
Uttle nutmeg, and a little grated lemon-peel. Fill the 
dish thus with alternate layers, pour in as much as it mil 
hold .of the gravy jelly, cover it with pufF-paste, and bake 
an hour. This is to be eaten cold. 

314. Calf's Feet Pie (Scotch). 

Clean and boil two feet till tender, but not too soft, 
mince the meat when cold with suet and pared apples in 
the proportion of a third part apples and suet to the 
calves' feet. Put into a pie-dish with a little strong 
gravy and a glass of white wine ; season with a little 
pepper and salt ; cover the dish with puff-paste, and bake 



120 MEAT, POULTRY, GAME. 

it rather more than half an hour. This is very light and 
nourisliing. 

315. Pigeon Pie. 

Put in the bottom of the pie-dish a good beef-steak, not 
cut too thick ; truss and prepare six young pigeons, ar- 
range them in the dish, between each place the yolk of a 
hard-boiled egg \ season with a quarter of an ounce of 
mixed salt and pepper, a sprinkle of minced parsley, and 
a very little cayenne pepper ; add a Avineglassful of veal 
stock, cover with a puff -paste not too thick, and bake one 
hour. 

316. Chicken Pie. 

Cut the chickens in joints j blanch them ; season with 
pepper and salt, a mixed spoonful of chopped mushrooms, 
parsley, and onions ; add a few slices of ham or bacon. 
A layer below and one above the chicken arranged in the 
pie-dish is best. Fill it up with veal gravy in which 
you have previously boiled a few mushrooms ; put in also 
the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs. A little lemon-juice 
may also be added. Cover with puff-paste, and bake 
rather more than an hour. 

317. Casserolles of Rice. 

Boil the rice well, and let it stand till nearly cold ; then 
make it into round rolls with a small shape about the 
depth of a pattie. Cover them with egg and bread- 
crumbs, and fry them of an even light colour. AVhen 
cold scoop out the inside, and fill them with either 
minced veal or chicken, well stewed with parsley and 
shallot, and mixed with a bechamel sauce. Make them 
hot, and serve with fried parsley. 



meat, game, poultry. 121 

318. Petits Patties. 

Cut some chicken in dice, put it into a saucepan with 
some bechamel sauce, well seasoned with shallot. Reduce 
it a little and let it get cold. Line your pattie-pans 
with puff-paste, rather thin, and put a little of the meat 
in each. Stew them well. Sprinkle them over with 
bread-crumbs and some bits of fresh butter. Bake 
them twenty minutes in a quick oven, and serve hot. 

319. Larks en Ragout. 

Take a dozen larks, put them in a stew-pan with a bit of 
butter, a bunch of sweet herbs, some mushrooms, and 
sweetbread cut small, a good pinch of flour, a glass 
of white wine, one of gravy, and some broth. Reduce 
the same, skim it well, take out the herbs, season with 
pepper and salt, and serve hot. 

320. Roast Sweetbreads. 

Trim a fine sweetbread (it cannot be too fresh) ; blanch 
or parboil it for five minutes, throw it into a basin of 
cold water ; when cold dry it well on a cloth, run 
a lark spit or small skewer through it, tie it on the 
spit, and roast it either plain or egged with a brush, and 
well powdered with bread-crumbs. Serve with a clear 
sauce piquante. (See Sauces.) 

321. RoGNONS de Bceut, etc. 

Cut two kidneys in slices, put them into a stew-pan with 
two ounces of butter at the bottom, a spoonful of minced 



122 

parsley, onion, and mushroom ; cover them with fat 
bacon, and let them stew one hour. Strain the liquor 
off, and thicken with a spoonful of flour. Season with 
salt and pepper, half a glass of white wine, and the juice 
of a lemon. 

322. Kidneys 1 la Brochette. 

Divide two or more kidneys, put them on a silver 
skewer, melt some butter, and with a paste-brush butter 
them well all over ; set them upon the gridiron as near 
the fire as possible, for they cannot be done too quick. 
Turn them every minute, and when half done season 
with salt, pepper, and a little cayenne. Put them, 
skewer and all, on a hot plate, squeeze a little lemon 
juice over them, and serve. You may garnish them 
with beurre a la maitre d'hotel. 

323. Kidneys Saute. 

Cut three kidneys each in five pieces ; put an ounce of 
butter in the saute-pan ; when very hot put in the 
kidneys, stir round for a few minutes with a spoon till 
they are set. Add a teaspoonful of flour, quarter of a 
one of salt, and the third part of that of pepper. Mix 
well ; add half a gill (about two tablespoonfuls) of 
broth, and a small wineglassful of either sherry, port, or 
champagne, and a few mushrooms. Do not let them 
boil ; a few minutes is enough to do them. 

324. A Haggis. 

Boil a sheep's lights and head, then mince them fine, 
add about the same quantity of suet, season with salt 



MEAT, GAME, POULTKY. 123 

and pepper, a good handful of chopped onions, and two 
handfuls of oatmeal. Fill the bag (or paunch) half full, 
put into it about a pint of broth, sew it up, and boil 
gently between three and four hours. Some put in the 
liver minced, and sweet herbs and spices. 

325. Scotch Minced Collops. 

This is simply a piece of lean raw beef minced very fine. 
They require about twenty minutes to cook. Put them 
in a saucepan, with a bit of butter to prevent their 
sticking. When they are hot add a teaspoonful of 
flour and a little gravy or water. They should be 
stirred often to prevent their getting lumpy, and are 
very light and nutritious. Onions may be added, or a 
little minced hot pickle, if liked. 

326. Hare Collops 

Are dressed in the same way, with the addition of a 
little claret. 

327. Caparata. 

Cut down a cold fowl, mince all the white very small, 
break the bones and the back, and put them, with the 
rest of the trimmings, a little water, a bit of lemon-peel, 
and a blade of mace, in a saucepan. Let it boil till all 
the substance is out of them ; strain it off, thicken with 
a bit of butter rolled in flour and a little cream ; chop 
some hard-boiled yolks of eggs, put them with the fowl 
into the sauce, give it two or tliree good boils. Just 
before dishing add a squeeze of lemon, a little salt, and 
cayenne pepper. Pepper and salt the legs, broil, and 
lay on the mince. 



124 meat, game, poultry. 

328. Stewed Tripe. 

Select two pounds of double tripe well cleaned and 
blanched, cut in pieces of rather less than a quarter of a 
pound each ; put in a clean stew-pan with a pint of milk 
and one of water, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, 
eight middle-sized onions carefully peeled. Set it on to 
boil, which it should do at first rather fast, then simmer 
till done, which will be in rather more than half an hour. 
Put it into a deep dish or tureen, and serve with the 
milk and onions. 

329. Tripe 1 la Lyonnaise. 

When any cold tripe remains, cut it in thin slices about 
an inch square and wipe it very dry. Mince two onions, 
put some butter (in the proportion of three ounces to a 
pound of tripe) into a frying-pan with the onions ; when 
they are about half done put in the tripe and let all fry 
for about ten minutes, season with pepper and salt, and 
three table-spoonfuls of vinegar to each pound of tripe. 
Serve very hot. This is a favourite dish in Lyons, both 
with the "gourmet" and the "gourmand." 

330. Gratin of Tripe. 

Cut each half pound, previously boiled, in four pieces. 
Stew it slowly in a pint of bechamel, in which you have 
mixed two teaspoonfuls of curry paste or powder, for 
half an hour. Add the yolks of two eggs, mix and stir 
quickly ; place it in the dish it is to be served on, strew 
it with bread-crumbs. Stick a few bits of butter on the 
top, and place it for a minute or two in the oven. Pass 
a salamander over the top, and serve. 



aiEAT, GAME, POULTRY. 125 



331. Black Puddings. 



When a large pig is killed, catch the blood in a basin, 
to each quart of blood put a large teaspoonful of salt, 
stir incessantly till it is cold ; simmer, in the smallest 
possible quantity of water, a pint of Emeden groats till 
tender, but not the least reduced to gruel. To each 
quart of blood add one pound of the inside fat of the 
pig, chopped, but not too small, a quarter of a pint of 
bread-crumbs, a tablespoonful of sage, a teaspoonful of 
thyme minced fine, a quarter of an ounce each of 
allspice, salt, and pepper, and a teacupful of cream. 
When the blood is cold strain it through a sieve and 
mix it with the fat, then the groats, and lastly the 
seasoning; mix well, and fill the largest guts, previously 
well cleansed, tie in lengths of about nine inches, and 
boil gently for twenty minutes ; when they have boiled 
a few minutes take them out and prick gently with a 
fork 

332. White Puddings. 

Boil a pint of good milk and a handful of bread-crumbs 
on the stove, turning often till the bread has absorbed 
all the milk and it is quite thick ; leave it to cool. Cut 
six middle-sized onions in small pieces, brown them in 
a frying-pan with a good bit of butter. Then take half 
a pound of fat of the inside of the pig chopped, and mix 
with the onions on the fire, let it cool a few minutes, 
then take it off, put in the boiled bread-crumbs, six 
yolks of eggs, beaten up with about half a pint of cream. 
Stir all together. Season with salt, pepper, and some 
fine spices, and stuff the previously prepared gut, but 



126 MEAT, GAME, POULTRY. 

not more than three parts full for fear of bursting. Tie 
in lengths of about six inches, put them gently into 
water which is quite boiling, and let them boil a quarter 
of an hour; take them out with a skimmer, and put 
them into cold water. Dry them. Broil in paper cases, 
and serve hot. 

333. Pork Sausages. 

The trimmings from the hams and part of the grisken, 
an equal quantity of fat and lean should be cut small 
with a knife, carefully removing any sinew or hard part, 
then chop it very fine with a chopper. Season with 
pepper, salt, and a little fine spice. Add a little finely- 
minced sage. Mix thoroughly, and fill the skins. They 
may either be boiled, fried, or broiled, and take about a 
quarter of an hour to do. 

334. Veal Sausages. 

Chop equal quantities of the lean of veal and fat bacon, 
a handful of sage, a little salt and pepper, and three or 
four anchovies; beat all in a mortar, and when used, roll 
in balls or the shape of a sausage and fry ; serve on 
mashed potatoes with fried sippets. 

335. Beef Sausages. 

Chop two pounds of lean beef and one pound of suet 
very fine, a teaspoonful of powdered thyme, one of sage, 
and one of allspice ; season with pepper and salt ; put 
them in skins, previously well cleaned and washed. 
They may be fried or broiled, and are good served with 
stewed red cabbage. 



MEAT, GAME, POULTRY. 127 

336. GoDivEAU, OR Yeal Forcemeat. 

Scrape one pound of veal, half a pound of fat bacon, 
pound it fine in a mortar ; add the crumb of a French 
roll, a teaspoonful of mace, and the same of nutmeg ; a 
table-spoonful each of chopped onions, parsley, and 
muslirooms, or truffles, some pepper and salt ; mix all 
this together, with two whole eggs, and rub it through a 
sieve. It is used on all occasions; for pies and forcemeat 
stuffing. 



VEGETABLES, SALADS, Eia 



337. To Boil Potatoes. 

They should always be boiled in their skins, and are best 
served in them ; but for those who dislike this, the skins 
can easily be removed before serving them. Choose 
them as much as possible of a size, that they may all be 
equally done ; put them into a pot with barely sufficient 
water to cover them, and plenty of salt. As soon as the 
skins begin to crack, lift the pot from the fire, and drain 
off every drop of water ; then either lay a cloth over the 
pot or put the lid on, not quite close, so that the steam 
may escape, and return them to the fire or set the pot 
close to it, till they are thoroughly done and quite dry. 
Some people, when the potatoes are boiling, drain off 
half the boiling water and replace it with cold, which is 
supposed to make more mealy at the heart. 

338. Broiled Potatoes. 

Wlien your potatoes are boiled, skin them, and lay them 
on a gridii-on over a clear brisk fire, and turn them till 
they are brown all over. 

339, Boasted Potatoes 

Should be first parboiled, then skimmed and dredged 
with flour, and put in the dripping-pan, under the joint 



VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 129 

that is roasting, about an hour before it is ready to serve. 
They should be browned all over, and carefully drained 
from the dripping. 

340. Baked Potatoes 

Are best done in a Dutch oven ; choose large ones ; 
wash them very carefully, and put them in the oven in 
their skins. They require a long time doing ; if large, 
about two hours. They should be eaten with cold 
butter, pepper, and salt. 

341. Potato Fritters (Scotch). 

Parboil half a dozen, or more if required, large kidney 
potatoes, cut them in slices about the thickness of a 
crown piece, beat up a couple of eggs with a table- 
spoonful of finely-grated bread-crumbs, and an equal 
quantity of lean ham grated. Dip each slice of potato 
in this mixture, and fry in plenty of good olive-oil. 

342. Mashed Potatoes (Indian). 

Mash well boiled potatoes, taking out all defects ; boil 
one or tw^o onions tender, chop them smaU together with 
a few chilis or capsicums. Mix the whole well together ; 
make it into a neat shape with a spoon, or put it into a 
mould, and bake for a short time in a moderate oven. 

343. Fried Mashed Potatoes. 

Roast twelve fine potatoes in the oven. When done, take 
out the insides and form them into a ball. When cold, 
put them into a mortar with a piece of butter half the 

K 



130 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 

size of the ball ; pound tliem well together ; season with 
a little salt and pepper, and a little minced shallot and 
parsley. Mix them with eight yolks and two whites of 
eggs. Form them into balls about the shape and size of 
a small egg. Bread-crumb them twice over ; and fry 
them of a light brown colour in a stew-pan of hot lard. 
This is good to garnish roast meat, etc. 

344. Potato Snow. 

Choose the whitest potatoes you can, and free from spots. 
Put them on to boil in cold water with plenty of salt. 
When they begin to crack, drain the water from them, 
and put them into a clean stew-pan by the fire till they 
are quite dry and fall to pieces. Then rub them 
through a wire sieve on the dish they are to be served 
on, and do not touch them again. 

345. Potatoes a la Lyonnaise. 

You may either boil potatoes on purpose, or take the 
remains of cold ones. Cut them in slices about the size 
and thickness of half a crown. Put three ounces of 
butter into a frying-pan ; slice three onions into it ; fry 
them of a light colour; then put in the potatoes, and turn 
them about till they are a nice yellow. Add a spoonful 
of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon ; 
toss them well over the fire, that all may be thoroughly 
mixed, and serve very hot. They are very good to eat 
with cutlets. 

346. Potatoes a la Maitre d'HOtel. 
Wash the potatoes clean, and boil them in salt and 



VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 131 

water in their skins. When they are done, let them 
cool. Trim them round and cut them into moderately 
thick slices, and stew them a few minutes in a maitre 
d'hotel sauce (see Sauces). If you should have none ready 
you can melt some butter, using milk instead of water ; 
mix with it a little minced parsley, pepper, salt, a small 
bit of glaze, and the juice of a lemon. 

347. Fried Potatoes. 

Cut raw potatoes into the shape and size of large corks, 
and then into thinnish slices ; throw them into hot 
clarified butter, and fry till they are crisp and of a good 
brown. Drain all the grease from them on a cloth, and 
serve very hot on a napkin, and sprinkle them over with 
a little fine salt. 

348. Mashed Potatoes. 

The potatoes should be first thoroughly well boiled, 
carefully remove all defects or hard bits ; mash them 
very small with a wooden spoon, adding as much 
cream as will make them the right consistence, and 
season with pepper and salt ; or, instead of cream, you 
may use butter and boiling milk, and they can be 
browned after they are dressed in the dish they are to 
be served on in the Dutch oven. 

349. Potato Souffles. 

Roast eight potatoes in the oven ; when they are quite 
done scoop out the insides and mash them up with a 
little bit of butter and a small quantity of cream, some 
pepper and salt ; mix thoroughly. AVhip four whites of 



132 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 

eggs to a froth, and mix with the potatoes ; then fill 
the skins, having cut them low enough to be of a good 
shape, and put them into the oven for eight minutes ; 
after which, serve them up as quick as possible. Large 
even potatoes should be chosen. 

350. Potato Chips. 

Cut raw potatoes into neat round slices rather more than 
an inch thick, and then into thin spiral shavings, going 
round and round in the way jon peel an apple ; throw 
these carefully into hot lard or oil ; fry them very crisp 
of a light brown, and serve as hot as possible. A little 
salt should be sprinkled over them. 

351. Potato Salad (German). 

Cut cold boiled rather waxy potatoes into moderately 
thick slices, put them in a bowl, and add to every pound 
a table-spoonful of vinegar, two of oil, half a teaspoonful 
of salt, a quarter of a one of pepper, and a little minced 
parsley. Slices of beet-root and Portugal onions are a 
great improvement to the salad. 

352. To Stew Peas. 

The peas should be young. Put them, with a bit of 
butter, a sprig of mint, and one of parsley, tied together, 
and a lump of sugar, into a stew-pan, and cover them up 
close. Stew them till they are soft ; take out the 
mint and parsley; add a little stock and a pinch of 
flour ; mix well together, and stew till they come to a 
boil. 



VEGETABLES, SALA.DS, ETC. 133 

353. Peas a la Cr£me. 

Take two quarts of very young green peas, toss them uj) 
with a bit of butter, and let them stew over a gentle 
fire ; add a little bunch of parsley and chives. When 
they are nearly ready, season them with a little salt and 
pepper ; remove the parsley and chives, and mix about 
a wine-glassful of cream, sweetened with a little sugar, 
with them. 

354. Peas a la FRANgAisE. 

Wash the peas, which may be rather old ones ; put them 
into a stew-pan with a piece of fresh butter the size of a 
walnut, a faggot of parsley and green onions, two cloves, 
a small slice of raw ham, a large white cos lettuce cut 
into slices, and a little salt. Put all on the fire to stew 
in its own liquor ; then put in a little boiling water, 
and allow it to stand for a quarter of an hour ; add a 
lump of sugar and some small bits of butter rolled in 
flour; mix well; let them have one more boil to thicken, 
and serve. 

355. Pease Pudding. 

One pint of peas and one potato ; boil till they are 
quite soft ; then rub them through a sieve ; tie them 
tight in a cloth, and boil ten minutes. Some salt should 
be added before the pudding is tied u]). 

356. Les Haricots a la Bretonne. 

Boil half a pint of haricot beans till they are quite 
tender ; slice four large onions very thin, and fry them 
in a little butter till quite brown ; then dry them in a 
cloth. Put the haricots and onions together in a stew- 



134 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 

pan, and add a small ladleful of reduced cullis, a little 
good broth, a small bit of glaze, pepper and salt, and a 
little finely-niinced parsley ; make very hot, and serve. 

357. AYhite Beans a la Maitre d'Hotel. 

White beans when new and fresh must be put into 
boiling water, but if they are old and dry they should 
be soaked for an hour in cold water before you boil 
them. Put them on to boil in cold water, and if more 
is required before they are done, replenish also with 
cold ; boil them very tender, and put into a stew-pan a 
quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little finely-minced 
parsley, some pepper and salt, and then the beans, 
previously well drained ; keep shaking the stew-pan, but 
do not touch the beans for fear of breaking them ; 
squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and serve very hot. 

358. Haricots Blancs au Jus. 

Steep them a 'night in cold water ; stew them slowly for 
two hours in broth, and serve them with a clear gravy ; 
about half a pound is enough for a dish. Be sure they 
are stewed till quite tender. 

359. Haricots Stewed for Eoast Mutton. 

Soak a pint of white beans in water for a few hours ; 
let them boil gently till quite tender, but not broken, 
strain the water off, and add to the beans two ounces of 
butter, two minced shallots, pepper and salt, and a pint 
of either bechamel or cullis, according as you wish them 
white or brown ; let all stew a few minutes, and serve 
with roast les: of mutton. 



VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 135 

360. French Beans 1 la Poulette. 

Choose the beans small and tender; wash them and 
take out the fibre, and throw them into fresh water. If 
any are larger, cut them to the general size of the rest. 
Put them in a stew-pan with plenty of water, and a 
handful of salt, and set them over a strong fire. When 
they are done enough, throw them into cold water ; 
then drain, and put them in a stew-pan with a bit of 
butter, and an onion or two cut in little dice, and 
previously fried white in butter. Sprinkle in a little 
Hour; let them stew a few minutes, but do not allow them 
to brown ; add a spoonful of soup, some minced parsley 
and scallions, or green onions, salt and pepper. Let 
them come to a boil, stirring them well, and thicken the 
sauce with the yolks of two eggs, beaten in a little cream. 
Just before serving add the juice of a lemon. 

361. French Beans Stewed. 

Cut off the stalks and remove the fibres, shred them 
fine, and wash them in salt and water ; put them on to 
boil in a good deal of water, with plenty of salt in it, 
which preserves their greenness. When they are about 
half done, drain them, and put them into a stew-pan with 
three spoonfuls of good broth, some cream, a piece of 
butter rolled in flour, salt, and pepper j stew gently till 
quite tender, and serve hot. 

362. Broad Beans au Jus. 

Take a sufficient quantity of young beans ready shelled, 
and put them on to boil with a great deal of salt and 



136 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 

water ; when nearly done, drain tliem, and put them 
into a stew-pan with a bit of butter, some minced parsley 
and scallions ; toss them well in the butter ; add three 
spoonfuls of espagnole ; let them simmer ; skim off the 
fat ; reduce the sauce, dish, and serve. 

363. Garottes au Sucre. 

Cut a pound and a half of carrots into rather thin slices ; 
blanch and drain them ; put them into a saucepan with 
a pound of white sugar, and as much boiling water as 
will cover them. When the water is reduced to half, 
add the rind of a lemon ; and when only about three 
spoonfuls are left, squeeze over them the juice of two 
lemons ; make very hot, and serve. 

364. To Stew Carrots. 

Half boil and carefully scrape them ; then sKce them 
into a stew-pan ; add half a teacupful of broth, the 
same of cream, and some salt and pepper ; simmer till 
they are very tender, but not broken ; ten minutes be- 
fore serving add a small piece of butter nibbed in flour, 
and some minced parsley ; the latter may be omitted 
if not liked ; a little sugar is a great improvement. 

365. Carrots au Jus. 

Parboil and scrape them ; cut them into moderately 
thick slices, and put them into a stew-pan with a pint of 
good broth, a little salt and pepper, and a spoonful of 
sugar ; let them stew gently till very tender ; a few 
minutes before serving add a squeeze of lemon to the 
gravy. 



vegetables, salads, etc. 137 

366. Mashed Turnips, Carrots, or Parsnips. 

Peel some turnips ; wash and boil them in salt and 
water. When done enough, press all the water out and 
pound them well in a mortar j then put them into a 
stew-pan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a 
little salt, half a pint of cream, and a teaspoonful of 
Hour ; mix thoroughly ; make it very hot, and serve. 
Proceed exactly the same for carrots and parsnips. 
Never rub through a sieve, for then it becomes a puree 
not a mash. 

3G7. Turnips Glace au Sucre. 

Trim about two dozen turnips in the shape of small pears ; 
if quite young, which is best, leave them their own shape ; 
put them into a stew-pan with a small piece of butter, 
two ounces of pounded sugar, a very little salt, and half 
a pint of good broth ; set them on to simmer very 
gently over a slow fire for about forty minutes. When 
they are nearly done, place the stew-pan over a brisk fire 
to reduce the sauce to a glaze, rolling the turnips about in 
it at the same time, but with great care to avoid breaking 
them ; dish, and pour the glazed sauce over them. 

368. Carrots a l'Allemande. 

Trim four or five dozen spring carrots ; wash them and 
parboil them in water with a little salt for ten minutes ; 
then put them into a stew-pan with two ounces of butter, 
the same of pounded sugar, and a pint of good broth ; 
boil the carrots in this, very gently, for half an hour : 
then set tliem on to boil briskly, till the sauce is reduced 



138 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 

to a glaze ; dish them ; pour allemande sauce round, and 
the glaze over them. 

369. Eacines 1 LA Creme. 

Take some good carrots, scrape and wash them ; put 
them on to boil for half an hour, then cut them in long 
slices, and put them in a stew-pan with a piece of fresh 
butter, a bunch of parsley and green onions, sweet basil, 
a clove of garlic, and two shallots. Pass them over the 
fire, add a pinch of flour, and a little good broth ; let 
them simmer ; reduce the sauce, take out the bunch of 
herbs, etc., put in three yolks of eggs, beat up with a 
little cream ; thicken the sauce, but do not let it boil 
again. Just before serving add a little vinegar. 

370. Eacines en Menu Droits. 

Cut some onions into slices, brown them in butter with 
a pinch of flour. When they are almost done enough, 
moisten with broth, and stew till quite tender. Have 
some carrots, parsnips, celery, and turnips ready boiled 
and cut in slices, and add them to the onions ; season 
with salt, whole pepper, and a few drops of vinegar. 
Make all very hot, and just before serving mix a little 
mustard into the sauce. 

371. Puree de Navets. 

Take ten or twelve good-sized turnips, cut them in small 
pieces, scald them in boiling water, and drain them ; put 
them in a stew-pan with a bit of butter, and turn them 
often till they acquire a colour ; then put in a pinch of 
flour, a little salt and pepper, two minced shallots; moisten 



VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 139 

with broth, and stew over a gentle lire till the turnips 
fall into a sort of thick cream ; then rub them through a 
sieve, and they are ready to serve. Under mutton cut- 
lets, etc. 

372. Chartreuse of Vegetables. 

Blanch three dozen pieces of carrots ; three dozen pieces 
of turnip, cut with a cutter ; boil two dozen button 
onions, all of a size ; boil and chop a good quantity of 
spinage, one cauliflower, and a dozen asparagus heads ; 
line a mould with slices of fat bacon ; cut them ; arrange 
the roots, etc., round the bottom and sides into any pattern 
you fancy ; then press the spinach all over them, and 
till up with all sorts of chojjped vegetables, which should 
be stewed in broth, thickened with a little brown roux, 
and seasoned with salt and pepper; boil it in a bain 
marie, that is, set the mould in a pan of hot water, 
taking care there is not enough water to boil into the 
mould ; boil for one hour ; or it may be baked for the 
same time ; serve with a brown sauce. This chartreuse, 
instead of being filled wdth vegetables may be served 
as an entree, putting forcemeat next the spinach, and 
filling up with a ragout of sweetbread, etc. 



373. Macedoine of Vegetables. 

Boil two dozen asparagus tops, twelve button onions, 
half a cauliflower, two turnips, and two carrots, cut with 
a cutter twelve new potatoes and twenty French beans; 
put them all together into a stew-pan with a pint of 
bechamel, a Kttle salt and pepper ; make very hot, and 
serve. 



140 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 

874. A Dutch Macedoine. 

Brown four or five onions sliced and chopped in some 
butter ; then add previously boiled vegetables of any 
kind you can get, also chopped; stew all together in the 
butter, stirring continually; when nearly done, add some 
sliced tomatoes and two or three minced chilis, also a 
little salt, and either two tablespoonfuls of vinegar or a 
handful of sorrel. 

375. Chou en Surprise. 

Take a whole cabbage ; put it on to boil in boiling 
water for a quarter of an hour ; put it into cold water ; 
then press it dry with your hands, but without breaking 
the leaves ; draw the leaves backwards ; take out the 
stalk and centre ; and in its place put sausage meat and 
boiled chestnuts ; replace the leaves so as to give the 
appearance of a whole cabbage ; tie it up with pack- 
thread and put it on to stew in broth, with a little salt, 
whole pepper, a carrot, an onion, and a bunch of sweet 
herbs ; when done sufficiently, drain, and serve with 
either a cullis or a bechamel sauce. 

376. Chou 1 la Bourgeoise. 

Boil a whole cabbage, well cleaned, for a quarter of an 
hour ; lay it in cold water ; when cold, take it out, and 
squeeze it dry ; open the leaves carefully, and between 
each put a little veal forcemeat ; tie all together with 
packthread, and stew it in as much broth as will cover 
the cabbage, mth salt, pepper, sweet herbs, a bay leaf, 
an onion, carrot, and parsnip, and two or three cloves ; 



VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 141 

when stewed enough, press it gently with a clean cloth, 
remove the packthread, cut it in half, and serve with a 
sauce espagnole poured hot over it. 

.377. COLCANNON. 

Chop an equal quantity of boiled cabbage and potatoes, 
add two ounces of butter, pepper, and salt, and fry them 
together ; some onions or carrots may also be added, if 
liked. Cabbages should always be boiled in two waters, 
and the water skimmed, and take about an hour to cook. 

378. To Stew Eed Cabbage. 

Split a red cabbage, cut it across in thin slices, throw it 
into salt and water, then put it into a clean saucepan, 
with some broth and a piece of butter rolled in flour : 
add pepper and salt, a glass of vinegar, and a little bit 
of bacon. Let it stew till tender, take out the bacon, 
and serve. It is good with sausages, stewed partridges, 
etc. 

379. A Dutch Eeceipt for Eed Cabbage. 

Cut it in slireds, and boil in water till tender; then 
drain as dry as possible, put it into a stew-pan, with some 
pure olive-oil, a piece of fresh butter, a small glass of 
vinegar and water, an onion cut small, some pepper and 
salt. Let it simmer till all the liquor is wasted. It is 
eaten in Holland either hot or cold, and considered very 
wholesome. 

380. Brussels Sprouts au Jus. 

Boil them a few minutes in water, and then stew them 
till tender in some good gravy, with a little salt and 



U2 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 

pepper. Tliey may also be served with a white sauce 
or pass6 au beurre. Boil them first, and then toss them 
in a frying-pan, with a little butter. Do not let them 
brown. 

381. To Boil Onions. 

Peel and soak them in cold water, put them into boiling 
milk and water, and boil till tender. Eoast onions 
should be done with all the skins on, and parboiled 
before putting them in front of the fire or in a Dutch 
oven to brown. Portugal onions should be parboiled, 
and then stewed in good broth till it comes to a demi- 
glaze. 

382. Stewed Portugal Onions. 

Peel four large onions, and put them into a quart of 
strong broth, with three-quarters of a pound of fine 
white sugar and a pinch of salt. Put this into a stew- 
pan, cover it close, and set it in the oven. They will 
require from six to eight hours' cooking. The broth 
should be reduced to quite a glaze. 



383. Stewed Cauliflower. 

Pick and clean them well, boil them but only partially ; 
set them to drain, then put them into a saucepan 
with some veal stock, and let them simmer till tender. 
Now set the saucepan on the stove over a brisk fire ; 
thicken the sauce with a piece of butter the size of a 
walnut rolled in flour, add a squeeze of a lemon, and 
serve. 



vegetables, salads, etc. 143 

384. Choufleurs au Gratin. 

Prepare and boil a cauliflower, drain it, and put it on 
the dish in which it is to be served ; prepare a sauce 
with grated parmesan cheese, a piece of butter, some 
pepper and salt, a little lemon-juice, and the yolks of 
two eggs beaten in cream; beat and mix all well 
together, pour it over the cauliflower, grate parmesan 
cheese over the top, put the dish in the oven, and bake 
for twenty minutes. Brown the top with a salamander. 

385. Choufleurs a la Bechamel. 

Eemove all the green leaves and divide it in good-sized 
pieces, parboil, and then stew it till tender in a little 
veal broth, with salt, pepper, and a little bit of mace. 
When done, take it out, pour a rich bechamel (see 
Sauces) over it, and serve. 

386. To Stew Cabbage Lettuce. 

Wash the cabbage lettuces clean in several Avaters, put 
them into a saucepan to boil for half an hour with only 
as much water as will barely cover them ; then take them 
up with a skimmer and lay them in cold water ; squeeze 
the water from them with your hands, each lettuce 
separately, and place them in a small saucepan, with a 
quarter of a pound of butter mixed with a quarter of a 
spoonful of flour, a blade of mace, a bit of bacon as big 
as a thumb, stuck with cloves ; add as much veal broth 
as will quite cover them, also a little pepper and salt. 
Set them to stew over a clear fire. Winter lettuce will 
require an hour ; for summer, half that time will suffice. 



144 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 

When the broth is boiled clown quite thick, and sticking 
to the lettuce, pour over a little clarified butter, and 
shake the saucepan till it unites with the broth and 
lettuce, but do not toss it for fear of breaking them. 
You may turn it out and serve it thus, or, just before 
removing it from the fire, add the yolk of an egg beaten 
up in a little cream. Celery and endive may be done 
in the same way. 

387. To Stew Endive. 

Choose the whitest endive, pick it and blanch in boiling 
water, then put it in cold water ; take it out and squeeze 
it well. • Lay it on a table, and hash it a little with a 
knife, place it in a stew-pan with as much veal broth as 
will cover it, and a small bit of ham. Let it simmer 
over a slack fire till it gets quite thick; remove the 
ham. If the sauce, when it is stewed sufficiently, is not 
thick enough, add a little cullis. 

•388. To Dress Sorrel. 

Pick the sorrel carefully and nip off the stalks ; set ever 
a stove a saucepan half full of water. When it boils put 
in the sorrel and scald it ; take it out again at once and 
drain it ; squeeze it as hard as you do spinach, then put 
it into a saucepan with a little veal broth, and simmer 
tiU smooth and thick over a gentle fire. When nearly 
done, add a very little ham sauce. (See Sauces.) 

389. Stewed Sorrel. 

Wash any quantity you require of the leaves clean ; boil 
them tender in water and rub through a tammy into a 



VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 145 

Stew-pan ; add a slice of fresli butter and a spoonful or 
two of bechamel sauce, a little salt and sugar ; stew for a 
few minutes, and serve. 

390. Stewed Celery. 

Wash and trim off the outer leaves ; put it on to boil ; 
when it is tender take it out and squeeze it well ; then 
place it in a stew-pan with some good veal broth, and 
simmer it over a gentle fire. When reduced enough, 
thicken the sauce wdth a bit of butter the size of a wal- 
nut rolled in flour, add a few drops of vinegar or a 
squeeze of lemon, and serve. 

391. Celery a la CrMe. 

Trim and wash ; if the heads are large, halve them and 
cut them into lengths to suit your dish ; put them into 
a stew-pan with a cup of weak broth or veal gravy ; stew 
till tender ; add two tablespoonfuls of cream, a piece of 
butter rolled in flour, salt, pepper, and a little white 
sugar. Simmer together a few minutes, and serve. 

392. Asparagus a la CrIime. 

Cut the green part of the asparagus in pieces an inch 
long, and blanch them in boiling water ; then toss them 
in a stew-pan in a little butter or lard over the fire, but 
take care not to make them greasy. Add to them some 
cream, a bunch of herbs, a little pepper and salt ; let them 
stew till tender. Before serving beat up two yolks of 
eggs in a little cream with a teaspoonful of sugar ; add it 
to the sauce ; mix well, make it hot, and serve. 

L 



146 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 

393. Asparagus au Jus. 

Cut tliem in pieces, as above ; cut some parsley and 
chervil small and toss them together in a little melted 
lard ; put in also a whole leek, which you afterwards take 
out ; do not let them brown. Season with salt and 
pepper, and then put them in a stew-pan with a little 
good broth, and set them to simmer over a gentle fire. 
When done enough, skim off all the fat, add some beef 
gravy, squeeze the juice of a lemon over them, and 
serve. 

394. To EoiL Asparagus. 

Scrape the stalks clean, wash them in cold water, tie 
them up in bundles of about twenty-five each, cut off the 
stalks even at the bottom about four inches from the 
green part ; put them into a stew-pan of boiling water 
with a handful of salt in it ; let it boil rather quick, and 
skim it. From twenty to thirty minutes should be enough 
to do them ; but observe as soon as they are tender to 
take them out of the water, or they will be spoilt. WTiile 
they are boiling toast a round of a quartern loaf, about 
half an inch thick, brown on both sides ; lay it in the 
middle of the dish and the asparagus over it ; serve 
melted butter in which you have beaten up the yolk of 
an egg with them, but separately in a boat. In France 
asparagus is much liked cold as salad, and eaten with 
the following sauce : — Vinegar, one tablespoonful ; oil, 
two ; quarter of a teaspoonful of salt j half that of 
pepper. Mix well together, and add a little minced 
parsley. 



VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. ] i7 

395. To Dress Spinach. 

Boil the spinach tender without putting any water 
to it in a bain marie — /. e., stand the saucepan in boiUng 
water. When it is done squeeze it between two plates, 
pound it in a mortar, roll it into balls, and throw them 
into cold water. When you want to use it, put it into 
a stew-pan with some cream and a very little salt and 
pepper, or a small piece of butter and a few spoonfuls of 
soup. Let it stew quickly that it may not turn yellow, 
and stir it well. 

396. RoTiES aux Epinards. 

Cut some slices of bread about two fingers in length and 
the thickness of a crown-piece. Take some spinach that 
has already been served stewed ; mix two yolks of eggs 
with it, lay it on the toast, pass a knife dipped in ^gi^ 
over the top bread-crumb, and fry them. French beans 
are good dressed in the same way. The grease that runs 
from a goose when roasting should always be kept,, as it 
is particularly good to dress spinach with. 

397. Stewed Water-Cresses (Cornlsh Receipt). 

Lay the cresses in strong salt and water ; pick and wash 
them well, and stew in water for about ten minutes ; 
drain and chop them ; return them to the stew-pan, with 
a bit of butter, some pepper and salt ; stew till tender. 
Just before serving put in a little vinegai' ; serve with 
fried sippets. It is good with boiled cliickens. 

398. CUCUIUBERS AND OnIONS. 

Peel the cucumbers and cut them into quarters ; take 



148 vfXtEtables, salads, etc. 

out all the seeds, and cut each quarter mto three pieces, 
and pare them round. Peel as many small onions as 
you have pieces of cucumber ; put them all to marinade 
for two hours in vinegar and water (half of each), some 
pepper and salt; then pour off the liquor, add as much stock 
as will barely cover them, boil them down to a glaze, 
add as much cullis as you think they require, boil a few 
minutes, add the juice of a lemon and a little sugar. 
This is good either alone or with cutlets. 

399. Stewed Cucumbers. 

Pare some cucumbers, cut them down the middle in 
two, remove the seeds, and trim them into oval -shaped 
pieces ; put them to marinade for two hours in vinegar, 
with two or three sliced onions, some pepper and salt ; 
then squeeze them dry in a linen cloth, put them in a 
saucepan, and toss them in a little melted bacon or lard. 
When they begin to grow brown add some good gravy, 
and set them to simmer over a stove. Wlien nearly 
ready to serve, skim the fat from them, and thicken 
with cullis. 

400. Vegetable Marrow. 

When full grown cut them in four lengthways, remove 
the seeds, stew them in vinegar and water and fat bacon 
or butter. When tender, pour over them a bechamel 
sauce. If small and young, boil them whole. Serve 
them on toast with a bechamel round them, and a 
squeeze of lemon-juice over. 

401. Artichokes a la Creme. 
Boil them in water ; when they are done enough, diain 



VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 149 

tliem well. About half an hour is sufficient to cook 
them if they are young. Toss them in butter in a 
stew-pan, add to them some cream and a bunch of chives 
and parsley. Let them stew a little, thicken the sauce 
vrith the yolk of an egg ; season with salt and a little 
cayenne. 

402. Artichoke-Bottoms au Blakc. 

Trim them neatly round, leave on the tender leaves at 
the heart ; blanch them in salt and water. A^Tien they 
are so far done that you may remove the leaves and 
choke without breaking the bottoms, take them out and 
lay them in cold water. Then prepare the following 
" blanc," which is also good for all sorts of vegetables: — 
Cut about half a pound of bacon-fat into large dice, 
also a little beef-suet ; add two ounces of butter, a 
little salt, and half a lemon cut in thin slices, and as 
much water as will cover the vegetables you wish to stew 
in it. Let it simmer half an hour, then put in the 
artichokes and stew them till they are quite tender, 
which will be in about half an hour. Take them out, 
drain them, and serve with a sauce espagnole. (See 
Sauces.) 

403. Jerusalem Artichokes. 

Cut one or two onions into half rings, brown them 
lightly in oil ; trim the artichokes, and put them into 
the pan with the onions a little minced, and scallions, 
salt, and pepper. Toss them two or three times ; a,s 
soon as they are tender dish them. Put a spoonful of 
vinegar in the saucepan, boil it up, and pour it over 
them. Jerusalem artichokes are also good plain boiled, 



150 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 

and served with a bechamel sauce or fried in butter, like 
salsifis (which see), or roasted, and served on a napkin. 

404. Salsifis en Salade or Aspic. 

Take enough salsifis to fill a mould the size of the dish 
you require ; boil them in water enough for them to 
swim in, with a little salt, a bit of butter, and the juice 
of a lemon. Before boiling you must scrape off the out- 
side skin, and throw each bit as you prepare it into 
vinegar and water, which prevents their turning black. 
They will take three-quarters of an hour to boil. Be 
sure that they are tender. Drain them and cut them in 
pieces to fit the mould ; arrange them as for a chartreuse, 
dipping each piece into aspic to make it stick round the 
mould ; fill the centre with a salad of small bits of sal- 
sifis cut of the same size ; season with salt and pepper ; 
add oil, vinegar, some aspic, and parsley chopped veiy 
fine ; mix well together, fill up the mould with aspic, and 
set it on the ice. When you wish to serve, wrap a cloth 
dipped in hot water round the mould and turn it out on 
the dish. 

405. Fried Salsifis. 

Make a batter as follows : — Six spoonfuls of flour, a small 
pinch of salt, a spoonful of oil ; beat the whole together 
with as much beer as will make it into batter, but not 
very liquid ; then whip the whites of two eggs, and when 
well beaten pour them into the batter, which keep stir- 
ring gently. Boil the salsifis as in the preceding recipe. 
Dry them well on a cloth ; dip each piece separately into 
the batter, and throw them into hot lard ; fry them crisp 
and of a golden colour ; sprinkle a little salt over them 



VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 151 

and serve, garnished with fried parsley. Jerusalem 
artichokes and artichoke-bottoms are excellent dressed in 
the same way. 

40 G. To Dress Beetroot and Small Onions with 
A Sauce Piquante. 

Take two or three beetroots, wash them clean, and be 
careful not to break any of the fibres, otherwise they will 
lose their colour in boiling. Boil them till tender, with 
two or three dozen button onions. AA^ien they are done 
take off the skins and the outside fibres of the beetroot 
and slice it down ; stew it in the following sauce for ten 
minutes : — Take an ordinary-sized onion, mince it small, 
and fry it brown in a little butter ; add a little flour and 
brown that also ; then put in a ladleful of soup, the juice 
of a lemon, and some salt and pepper. When it is done 
dish the onions in the centre, the beetroot and sauce 
round, and serve very hot. 

407. Fricassee of Beetroot. 

Boil some beetroots tender, slice them and put them into 
a saucepan with some parsley, chives, and sweet herbs 
minced fine ; a little bit of shallot, a pinch of flour, salt, 
pepper, and a spoonful of vinegar or more. Let it boil 
a quarter of an hour, and it will be ready to serve. 

408. Stewed Beetroot. 

Bake beetroots in an oven till they are tender; take them 
out, and when they are cold remove the outside, cut them 
in slices, and pour a little vinegar over them ; then put 
them into a stew-pan with as much gravy as will cover 



152 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 

them ; simmer for half an hour. Thicken the gra^^^ be- 
fore serving with some cream in which yon have mixed 
a slice or two of beetroot beaten up in the mortar to give 
it a fine colour. 

409. Tomatoes. 

Scrape out the inside of eight tomatoes, drain, rub them 
through a sieve ; add one ounce of bread-crumbs, the 
same of butter, salt, and a very little cayenne. Put this 
back into the skins and bake for ten minutes. Serve 
with a cullis sauce round them. 

410. ToMATEs Farcies. 

Take the pips out, and fill the tomatoes Avitli sausage- 
meat mixed with a venj little bit of garlic, some parsley, 
tarragon, and small onions minced fine; put them into a 
"tourte" or silver souffiepan, cover them with bread- 
crumbs, and bake. Just as you send them up, which you 
must do in the dish they were cooked in, squeeze over 
some lemon-juice. 

411. Tomatoes au Jus. 

Stew the tomatoes whole in some good gravy, drain them 
on a sieve, and pour over them a little gravy reduced to 
a half glaze, and a teaspoonful of vinegar in it quite hot. 

412. Tomatoes Stewed. 

Stew them in a little fresh butter till quite tender, and 
squeeze a little lemon-juice over them before serving. 
Tomatoes are also excellent roasted in the Dutch oven, 
with only a few little bits of butter to prevent their 



VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 153 

sticking to the pan. About twenty minutes will cook 
them. 

413. Layer 

Is usually bought prepared in pots, and then merely re- 
quires heating over a lamp and a squeeze of lemon added 
to it. Serve over a lamp that it may be very hot. If 
you pick it fresh by the seaside it requires most careful 
washing in many waters to get rid of the sand. Salt 
water is best, if you can get it quite clear, to w^ash it in. 
It should then be slowdy stewed for many hours in weak 
veal broth till it is quite a pulp ; add more broth if it 
gets too dry. 

414. Grilled Mushrooms. 

Choose large fresh mushrooms ; skin them and remove 
the stalks ; lay them on a dish with a little fine oil, pepper, 
and salt over them ; let them stand an hour, and then 
broil on a gridiron over a clear sharp fire. Serve them 
either dry on a toast or with the following sauce : — Mince 
the stalks or any spare pieces of the mushrooms fine, put 
them into a stew-pan with a little broth, some chopped 
parsley and young onions, butter, and the juice of a lemon, 
or instead of the two latter the yolk of an egg beat up in 
some cream. Beat all thoroughly together and pour round 
the mushrooms. 

415. Mushroom Toasts. 

Put some moderate-sized mushrooms skinned and 
cleaned into a stew-pan with the juice of a lemon, a piece 
of butter, some pepper and salt, three cloves, some green 
onions, parsley, and sweet savory, tied up together in a 
bit of muslin ; set them over a moderate fire, and let 



154 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 

them stew gently till nearly dty; give them a dust of 
flour, add some veal broth, and let them stew a quarter 
of an hour. Take out the herbs, etc., and thicken the 
sauce with two eggs beaten up in a little cream. Cut the 
top off a French roll, remove the crumb, butter and 
toast it, and then pour in the mushrooms and sauce, and 
serve. 

416. Ragout of Mushrooms. 

Skin and cut them in slices, toss them in melted lard 
or butter, seasoned with salt, pepper, and minced parsley ; 
moisten with broth and a spoonful of cullis. Just before 
serving, add a squeeze of lemon. 



417. Mushrooms Farcie. 

Take some large mushrooms, skin and trim them, stew 
them in a little broth, but not too much ; take them 
out and put in the stalks and trimmings, stew them till 
quite tender, drain them, mince them very fine, mix 
them with a little butter, some pepper, salt, and a very 
little minced parsley ; lay this on the inside of the mush- 
rooms ; strew fine bread-crumbs over them, and bake in 
a Dutch oven. 

418. Mushrooms a la CrIime. 

Cut the mushrooms in pieces and toss them over a brisk 
fire in butter seasoned with salt, a very little nutmeg, 
and a bunch of herbs. When they are done enough and 
the butter nearly all wasted away, take out the herbs ; 
add the yolk of an egg beaten up in some good cream, 
make very hot and serve. 



VEGETABLES, SALALS, ETC. 155 

419. To Dress Truffles. 

Having peeled the truffles, cut them m slices, wash and 
drain them well ; put them into a small saucepan with 
some essence of ham, or ham-sauce (see Sauces), and set 
them on to stew gently over a slack fire. When they 
are quite tender, bind them with a good cullis, and serve. 

420. Truffles Maigre. 

After having peeled, cut and wash the truffles as in the 
last recipe ; put them into a stew-pan with some fish 
stock ; season with salt, pepper, and a bunch of sweet 
herbs, and stew them over a gentle fire. When they 
are done enough, thicken the sauce with roux, take out 
the herbs, and serve. 

421. Truffles au Vin de Champagne. 

Take ten or twelve fine truffles, put them in warm water, 
brush them clean and change the water ; brush them 
again, and rinse them thoroughly in fresh water that 
they may be quite clean; drain them, cover the bottom 
of a stew-pan with slices of bacon, and put in the truffles ; 
season with a little salt, a bunch of parsley and scallions ; 
add a little good stock, and half a bottle of champagne. 
Make them boil. Cover the top of the stew-pan first 
with paper, and then with the lid. Put fire over as well 
as under, and leave them to cook an hour. Ascertain if 
they are done enough by pressing them. If they are, 
drain them on a cloth, and serve in a folded napkin ; 
if not, let them stew longer. A slice or two of ham 
may also be added. 



156 vegetables, salads, etc. 

422. Morels in Cream. 

Having taken off the stalks of the morels, cut them in 
two, and wash them in several waters that they may not 
be gritty ; put them into a saucepan with a piece of 
butter ; season with salt, pepper, a bunch of herbs, and 
a little shred parsley j toss them over the stove, then 
moisten with some good broth, and set them to simmer 
over a slack fire. Make a thickening with the yolks of 
two eggs beaten up with cream ; take out the herbs, add 
this to the sauce, and serve. Mushrooms may be dressed 
in the same manner, and morels are good done in the 
different ways mushrooms are. 

423. German Salad. 

The fillets of four salt herrings chopped very small, 
one beetroot and four boiled potatoes, two hard-boiled 
eggs, two russet apples, two stalks of celery, all minced 
fine. (For sauce, see Salad Sauces.) 

424. Anchovy Salad. 

"Wash them in fresh water tni the liquor be clear, then 
dry them on a linen cloth. Cut off the tails and fins, 
and bone them ; split them and lay them on a dish. 
Mince young onions, parsley, beetroot, and lettuce ; 
arrange it round them. Beat up oil and lemon-juice 
together and pour it over. 

425. Lobster Salad. 

Eub two hard-boiled eggs through a sieve, add to them 



VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 157 

two tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, the same of 
common vinegar, and one of chili, two teaspoonfuls 
of ketchup, and the same of anchovy sauce, some 
cayenne pepper, mustard, and salt ; mince some parsley, 
tarragon, and a little shallot very fine, and mix with the 
sauce ; then add six tablespoonfuls of the best olive-oil 
or tliick cream. Mix all these well together with the 
inside of the head and coral of the lobster. Cut the 
meat of the tail into pieces, and the claws in two ; lay 
them in a bowl or deep dish, pour the sauce over, and 
then heap the salad on the top — lettuce, endive, 
cucumber, small salad, etc. Salmon is equally good 
done in this way. The cold salmon should be cut into 
fillets, and may either be served in the same way, or the 
fillets ranged round the sauce in the centre, and sur- 
rounded with the salad and slices of cucumber. 

426. Salad of Lobster or Crab. 

Chop one large onion, t^yo sour apples, and the meat of 
one crab or lobster together ; pour over it three spoon- 
fuls of oil, two of vinegar. Season with cayenne pepper 
and salt to taste. 

427. Salade de Poulets aux Coxcoi^ibres. 

Choose three good cucumbers, cut off both ends, peel 
and cut them in quarters, take out the seeds, and cut 
them in oval pieces of an equal size ; blanch them in 
water with a little salt and vinegar ; stew them in a 
"blanc" (see No. 402). "When sufficiently done drain 
them and lay them aside to cool. Take the white meat 
of a previously-cooked chicken, cut it in scollops the 



158 VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 

same size as the cucumbers ; dish them alternately. 
Put small salad in the centre, and pour over a good 
salad sauce (see Cold Sauces) in which a little bechamel 
or aspic has been mixed. Minced parsley or chervil 
may be added. 

428. Endive Salad a la FRANgAisE. 

Wash and dry the endive quickly, as leaving it in the 
water makes it bitter. It should be well blanched, and 
any green parts left out. Eub a salad bowl with a clove 
of garlic, slice the endive into it, add a teaspoonful of 
salt, a quarter one of pepper, five tablespoonfuls of good 
oil, and two of vinegar. Eub a piece of garlic on two 
crusts of bread, each about the size of a walnut ; add 
them to the salad, which you must stir well with a 
wooden fork and spoon for a few minutes, and then serve. 

429. Salad a la Tart are. 

Well wash and dry the salad — cabbage or cos lettuce ; 
boil four onions ; when cold cut them in slices. Cut 
also four pickled cucumbers. Put salad at the bottom, 
then cucumbers and onions, and again salad. Have 
ready two Dutch salt herrings ; broil them, but not too 
much. Take out all the bones, and cut them in small 
square pieces, and add them to the salad. Pour over 
three tablespoonfuls of vinegar and five of oil. Season 
with salt and pepper, and mix all well together. 

430. Chaudfroid en Salade. 
Prepare a fricassee of chicken, pouring the sauce over it. 



VEGETABLES, SALADS, ETC. 159 

SO that when it is cold it may adhere all over. Cut up 
any salad that may be in season — lettuce, endive, etc. ; 
place it in the middle of the dish, and just moisten it 
with tarragon vinegar, oil, and a little mustard worked 
up in it. Arrange the chicken round it, place some of 
the cold fricassee sauce on the top, garnish with aspic 
jelly, or surround it with a border of aspic made in a 
mould. Cold salmi of partridge or grouse is good in 
the same way. 

431. Boiled Salad. 

Boil tender beetroot, potatoes, Brussels sprouts, and 
celery ; slice the two first, and cut the celery in largish 
pieces. There should not be many sprouts. Pour over 
a rich salad sauce (see Sauces). The vegetables must be 
cold. This salad may be made of any sort of vegetables 
which are improved by being cooked in a blanc (see 
No. 402), such as Jerusalem artichokes, cucumbers, Por- 
tugal onions, French beans, asparagus tops, etc. 



EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 



432. German Omelette. 

Fry a quarter of a pound of bacon cut in dice. When 
done beat up eight eggs with some pepper and salt ; add 
them to the bacon, and fry all together. Stir till it gets 
thick, and turn it into the dish you mean to serve it in 
very hot. 

433. A VERY Light Omelette. 

A quarter of a pint of cream and the yolks of six eggs 
beaten well together with a little cayenne and a little 
salt ; then add a small piece of shallot and a little parsley 
minced very fine ; mix well together ; whip the whites 
of five eggs, and stir into the omelette till very light ; 
melt a little butter in the frying-pan, and pour in the 
eggs ; do them over a quick fire for five minutes. 
Serve it very hot, with or without a good gravy over 
it. This is an excellent recipe. 

434. Omelette. 

Two yolks of eggs and one white, a tablespoonful of 
cream, a little minced parsley and shallot, and a very little 
nutmeg. Whisk all- well together, and fry in as little 
butter as possible. ,Yery good. 



eggs, cheese, entremets, etc. 161 

435. Omelette aux Fines Herbes. 

Break six very fresh eggs into a basin ; add a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, a quarter one of pepper, two of minced 
parsley, and half a one of minced onion ; beat them well 
together. Put into a clean dry frying-pan two ounces of 
butter ; set it on the fire, and when the butter is hot 
pour in the eggs. Keep mixing quickly with a spoon 
till it is lightly set, then tilt the pan sideways so as to 
let the omelette slip to the edge, which mil make it of 
an oval shape. Let it set a minute, and turn it over on 
to a hot dish and serve. If you wish it to be flavoured 
with parmesan or gruyere cheese leave out the parsley and 
onions, and put two table spoonfuls of the cheese grated 
to the eggs. 

436. Buttered Eggs. 

Put in a stew-pan two ounces of butter; break four fresh 
eggs into it ; add a tablespoonful of chopped mushrooms 
or truffles, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter one 
of pepper. Set it on the fire and stir continually with 
a wooden spoon till it is of a good consistency. Have 
ready some slices of buttered toast on a hot dish j pour 
the eggs on to them, and serve. 

437. Eggs 1 la Bonne Femme. 

Cut a middle-sized onion in dice ; fry them in a stew-pan 
with a pat of butter a light brown ; add a teaspoonful of 
vinegar when done ; then butter a dish lightly, spread 
the onions over it, break the eggs into it, and put the 
dish in the oven. When the eggs are done, strew them 
over with fried bread-crumbs, and serve very hot. 



162 EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 

438. Eggs 1 la PRovENgALE. 

Take the yolks of eight and the whites of five eggs ; beat 
them well ; add a spoonful of cullis or brown sauce, a 
little minced green onion and parsley, pepper and salt ; 
stir it over a slow fire till it thickens ; squeeze in the 
juice of a lemon or orange, and serve with fried bread, 
or put them into small moulds. When done enough, 
turn them out, and serve with a sauce of cullis seasoned 
with pepper, salt, and a little lemon-juice. 

439. Egg Vermicelli. 

Boil eight yolks of eggs hard ; add three ounces of butter 
to them ; pound them together, and rub all through a 
coarse sieve into the dish it is to be served in, on which 
you have previously laid cold toast buttered. 

440. Ham and Eggs. 

Cut an ounce of well-cooked ham in small dice ; put it 
into a pan with an ounce of fresh butter and three eggs, 
a little pepper, and a spoonful of chopped chervil. Stir 
continually till the eggs are enough done. They should 
not be very stiff*. Serve on toast. 

441. Eggs en Caisse. 

Make some small paper boxes. Take a piece of butter 
and mix it with some stale crumbs of bread, a little 
minced parsley, salt, and cayenne pepper. Butter the 
bottoms of the boxes; then put in some of this mixture; 



EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 103 

break an egg into each box, cover it over "wdth bread- 
crumbs ; see that the boxes are filled ; put them on the 
gridiron for two or three minutes, pass a salamander 
over the top, and serve. 

442. Des (Eufs au Soleil. 

Poach about eight fresh eggs very nicely ; take them out 
and put them into cold water ; when they are cool lay 
them for about a quarter of an hour to marinade in a 
glass of white wine vinegar, with some sweet herbs ; 
then dry them upon a cloth, dip them in a batter pre- 
pared with flour mixed vnth equal quantities of ale and 
water till it is of the right consistency, about the thick- 
ness of double cream. Fry them of a nice light brown 
in hot lard. Serve upon a bed of fried parsley. 

443. TiMBALES OF EgGS AU JuS DE PeRDRIX. 

Take a partridge, split it down the back, notch the 
breast and legs ; put it into a small stew-pan with a bit 
of ham, an onion, a carrot, and a little parsley. Pour 
in a spoonful or two of broth, and let it stew gently till 
it is dry and brown at the bottom. Add a ladleful 
more broth, and let it boil gently for about a quarter of 
an hour. Then strain it through a Hnen sieve, take off 
the fat, add a little salt and pepper, and when cool pour 
in six or seven eggs previously well beaten ; pass it 
through a tammy, and pour it into small china cups or 
timbale moulds. Place them in a pan of hot water ; let 
it boil till you perceive they are set like custard ; turn 
them out, and pour the same gravy over them. 



104 EGGS, CHEESE, ENTEEMETS, ETC. 

444. Curried Eggs. 

Slice two onions, fry them brown in a little butter, add 
a pint of broth and a tablespoonful of curry powder ; 
stew till quite tender. Thicken a cup of cream with 
some arrowroot or rice-flour; mix it with the broth, etc.; 
simmer a few minutes, and add six or eight hard-boiled 
eggs cut into slices ; heat them thoroughly in the sauce, 
but do not let them boil. 

445. CEuFS AU Bouillon. 

Put into a stew-pan six yolks of fresh eggs and two 
whites, with six spoonfuls of good stock ; mix all well 
together, and pass it through a sieve. Butter some 
small moulds ; let them drain and cool ; pour the eggs 
into the moulds and set them in a pan of boiling water 
on the fire. When they have properly taken, turn them 
out with care on a dish, and serve with a rich gravy round 
them. 

446. Les (Eufs EN Fricassee. 

Put a piece of butter in a stew-pan with some finely- 
minced parsley and green onions, a teacupful of broth, 
and a shake of flour ; reduce it a little and skim it well. 
Boil some eggs hard, cut them in slices not too thin, 
and put them in with a little salt and pepper. Beat up 
the yolk of an egg in a small cupful of cream ; add this 
to the rest, and the juice of half a lemon. Mix well, 
make very hot, and serve with sippets of toasted or fried 
bread. 

447. (Eufs Farcies. 

Boil some fresh es^p-s hard ; cut them carefully in halves 



EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 105 

lengthways, first removing the shell ; take out the yolks 
and beat them up with a bit of butter, some bread- 
crumbs soaked in milk and squeezed dry, a little minced 
parsley, pepper and salt. Add cream enough to moisten 
the paste, fill the whites to the original shape of the egg, 
cover the top with bread-crumbs, and fry in butter of a 
light brown. 

448. (EuFS SUR LE Plat. 

Break five or more fried eggs carefully into a dish, so 
that the yolks are at equal distances from each other. 
Pour a little hot butter on them, either browned or not. 
Strew them lightly with bread-crumbs, and put them 
into a moderate oven till the white is well set. 

449. CEuFS EN Puree. 

Boil some fresh eggs hard; let them get cold; take out 
the yolks and beat them in a mortar with butter, 
pepper, salt, and the yolks of tliree raw eggs ; chop the 
whites small, and stew them a few minutes in a little 
good gravy without letting them boil ; pass the yolks 
through a colander into the dish they are to be served 
in. Arrange the whites round, garnish with sippets of 
bread dipped in egg, place the dish in an oven, and 
serve as soon as it is browned. 

450. Fried Eggs. 

Put into a frying-pan some olive-oil or butter; set it over 
the stove, and when it boils raise the handle of the pan 
that the hquid may run to one side. Break an egg 
carefully into the pan, and with a pierced ladle throw 



166 EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 

the boiling oil or fat over the egg, which will cause the 
white to boil up and cover the yolk. As soon as one is 
cooked, take it out with the strainer, and do another in 
the same way, till you have enough. Take care to keep 
them hot. They should be a nice light brown, and may 
be served with a puree of tomatoes, a sauce piquante, or 
a good gravy, and seasoned with pepper and salt. 

451. (Eurs Au Fro mage. 

Place in the dish you will serve them in, and which 
must be strong enough to resist the fire, a piece of butter, 
a little oil, and some slices of good rich cheese. "WTien 
it is melted, break whole eggs into it, put the dish in 
the oven or before the fire. When the white sets, 
sprinkle grated cheese and pepper on them. Brown at 
the top, and serve as hot as possible. 

452. OEuES Aux Truffes. 

Mince fine a slice or two of bacon ; put it with a little 
butter in a saucepan over a slow fire. When it has 
cooked a few minutes, pour it into the dish the eggs 
are to be served in ; add a spoonful of gravy and a little 
white wine. Break into it the quantity of eggs you 
require, being careful not to break the yolks ; add salt, 
pepper, and a little nutmeg. When they are quite set, 
strew over the top minced truffles, which have been 
i")reviously stewed in butter. 

453. Boiled Cheese. 
Take four ounces of cheese (single Gloucester or Dunlop 



EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 167 

do well), two ounces of fresh butter, and a tablespoonful 
of cream ; cut the cheese into thin slices ; put all into a 
stew-pan, and set it over a slow fire. Stir it till it boils, 
and is quite smooth. Take off the pan ; break an egg 
into it, stir both yolk and white cjuickly in ; put it in a 
dish, and brown in a Dutch oven before the fire. 

4:54:. Fromage Cuit. 

Cut half a pound of Cheshire cheese into thin slices; 
pound it well in a mortar; add by degrees the well-beaten 
yolks of two and the white of one egg ; also, half a pint 
of cream. Mix well together, and bake on a dish for 
ten or fifteen minutes. 

455. Stewed Cheese. 

Melt three-quarters of an ounce of fresh butter in a tea- 
cupfal of cream ; mix with a quarter of an ounce of good 
cheese, finely grated ; beat it well together, stew till it is 
quite smooth, stirring all the time. Serve upon well 
toasted bread, and brown the top with a salamander. 

456. Cheese Toasts. 

Grate three ounces of Gloucester cheese ; mix it with the 
yolks of two eggs, four ounces of grated bread, and three 
ounces of butter ; beat the whole well in a mortar, with 
a dessert-spoonful of mustard, a little salt and cayenne 
pepper. Toast some bread thin and crisp, cut it into 
neat pieces, lay the paste as above thick upon them, put 
them into a Dutch oven, covered with a dish, till hot 
through ; then remove the cover, let the cheese brown 
a little, and serve as hot as possible. 



168 EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 

457. FONDU. 

A quarter of a pound of fine flour well dried, half a pint 
of cream, a piece of butter the size of a nut ; mix them 
well together in a stew-pan over a slow fire, stirring con- 
stantly till it is quite thick, and smooth ; then add the 
yolks of five eggs, half a pint of new milk, and two 
ounces of grated parmesan cheese. Stir all together, but 
not over the fire. Beat up the whites of the five eggs to a 
strong froth, and mix it very lightly with the other 
ingredients. Bake in a souflie-dish or paper case, in a 
gentle oven, for half an hour. Take care it is served the 
moment it comes out of the oven, or it will fall and 
become heavy. 

458. Ramequins. 

Take a quarter of a pint of milk, one ounce of butter, 
and boil together, adding two spoonfuls of flour; stir 
constantly till quite hot. Mix in smoothly four whole 
eggs, and two ounces of grated parmesan cheese. Fill 
small paper cases, and bake in a moderate oven a little 
more than a quarter of an hour. 

459. Ramequins Souffle. 

Melt one ounce of butter ; mix into it a spoonful of flour 
and a little salt ; stir for a few minutes over the fire. 
Have ready boiled half a pint of milk, and a quarter one 
of cream. Pour this on the butter and flour by degrees, 
and work it perfectly smooth. Take the pan ofi" the fire 
and add half a pound of grated parmesan cheese, a little 
pepper, a very little powdered sugar, the yolks of eight 
eggs, and the whites of two well beaten. AVhen well 



EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 169 

mixed, add the other six whites, beaten to a froth. It 
should then be about the consistency of cream. Fill 
paper cases, but not quite to the top, and bake in a 
slow oven eighteen minutes. 

460. Eamequins 1 LA Sefton. 

Make half a pound of puff paste (see Pastry) ; roll it four 
times, then sprinkle some grated parmesan cheese all 
over it ; roll it out four times more, repeating the 
sprinkling of cheese between each rolling ; cut the paste 
with a cutter in any form you please ; sprinkle cheese 
over the top, and bake them a good brown in a moderate 
oven. Serve very hot on a napkin. 

461. Failles au Parmesan, or Cheese Straws. 

Take six ounces of flour, four of butter, two of cream, 
three of grated parmesan cheese, the slightest grating of 
nutmeg, two grains of cayenne, a little salt, and white 
pepper ; mix the whole well together, roll it out, and 
cut it in strips the size and thickness of a straw. They 
must be baked in a moderate oven, should be quite crisp, 
and of a pale colour. Serve very hot in the second 
course. 

462. Cheese and Ale. 

Cut some good Gloucester cheese into thin slices, carefully 
removing the rind ; lay them in a dish over a lamp ; 
spread each piece of cheese with mustard, and pour over 
as much strong ale as will cover them; stew till the 
cheese is quite dissolved. Toast and ale should be served 
Avith this. The toast should be thick, and well browned, 
and hot ale, with or without spices, poured over it. 



170 EGGS, CHEESE, ENTKEMETS, ETC. 

463. Canapes. 

Take the crumb of a large loaf; cut it in slices three- 
quarters of an inch thick ; cut this into any shape you 
please, and fry a good colour in oil. Mince separately 
the yolks and whites of hard-boiled eggs, capers, cucum- 
bers, some herbs (such as chervil and tarragon), and 
some small salad, fillet some anchovies, and put all this 
in a little of the best oil. Season the canapes that are 
fried with salt, pepper, and vinegar ; arrange the salad 
on them, with the anchovies on the top ; dress them 
neatly in the dish, and garnish with hard-boiled eggs, 
ham, beetroot, small herbs, capers, anchovies, etc. 

4G4. EoTiES d'Anchois. 

Toast some slices of bread, cut thin and in neat slices, 
and then soak in a little good oil. Take some 
anchovies, a little rasped lemon-peel, onion or shallot, 
parsley or chervil, tarragon and burnet, and the yolk of 
a hard-boiled egg; mince all together very small, and 
mix well. Drain the toasts from the oil as much as 
possible ; spread the mixture pretty thick on them ; 
arrange on the dish they are to be served on, and pour 
over a sauce made with two spoonfuls of oil, one of 
lemon-juice, some mustard, and a little pepper. 

465. E6TIES 1 LA MiNIME. 

Cut some slices of bread about two fingers' length and 
the thickness of a crown-piece ; j^ut them into a stew- 
pan with a little oil over a gentle fire ; turn them often 
till they acquire a good colour. Dress them on your 



EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 171 

dish, and lay some slices of well-Avashed anchovy or 
sardines on them. Add to the oil you fried the bread 
in some minced shallot, parsley, green onion, minced 
thyme, sweet basil, a bay-leaf, some whole pepper, and 
a little vinegar ; boil it a moment, pour over the toasts, 
and serve cold. The bay-leaf, sweet herbs, and pepper to 
be removed. 

466. Salmagundi. 

Wash and bone two large Dutch or Lochfine herrings ; 
mince the meat fine ; take the breast of a cold roast 
chicken, skin it and mince it ; also two hard-boiled eggs, 
an onion, an anchovy, and a little grated ham or tongue. 
Mix well together ; moisten with salad oil and vinegar, 
and season to taste with salt and cayenne pepper. 
Serve on toast. 

467. Indian Sandwiches. 

Cut the breast of a roast fowl or pheasant in very small 
square pieces, also about four ounces of tongue or lean 
ham, four anchovies washed and filleted ; mix well with 
the chicken, and put it into a stew-pan with two spoon- 
fuls of veloute sauce, a dessert-spoonful of curry paste, 
half a teaspoonful of chutnee, the juice of half a lemon, 
and a little salt and pepper. Boil for a few minutes on 
the stove, mixing well. Have ready prepared some thin 
slices of bread cut with a ciixular cutter, as many as 
you require for your dish, fry them in oil of a bright 
yellow, drain them on a napkin, and place half of them 
on a baking-sheet covered with clean paper ; spread a 
thick layer of the above preparation on each, and cover 
with another crouton. Next grate four ounces of 



172 EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 

parmesan cheese, mix it into a paste witli butter, divide 
it into as many parts as there are sandwiches, roll each 
into a round ball, and place one on the top of each sand- 
wich. About ten minutes before serving put them into 
oven ; let them be thoroughly heated ; pass a red-hot 
salamander over them ; dish on a napkin ; and serve. 

468. Minced Sandwiches. 

Cut some thin slices of bread, fry them crisp in oil ; take 
some ham or tongue, and any sort of game or poultry. 
Cut in thin small slices a few pickled gherkins and olives 
— there should be equal proportions of each ; mince fine, 
and mix well ; moisten with a sauce made of a spoonful 
of shallot vinegar, a little oil, mustard, and a little sugar, 
worked well together ; spread the mixture on the toast, 
and lay another piece on the top ; cut them of a neat 
shape, and not too large. 

469. Anchovy Toast. 

Bone a few anchovies, pound them in a mortar or mince 
very fine with dried parsley, half a clove of garlic, a little 
cayenne, a squeeze of lemon-juice, and a very little salad 
oil. Serve on toasted bread, or bread fried in oil. 

470. Croutons aux Rognons 

Are best made with veal kidneys. Take two, cut them 
in small pieces, and put them into a stew-pan with some 
butter, salt, and two or three onions minced ; let them 
stew till they are tender. Meanwhile, put into another 
saucepan a piece of butter, a spoonful of flour, and a 



EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 173 

little broth. Eeduce it till it is thick ; then put in the 
kidneys, four whole eggs, some finely-minced parsley, and 
a little grated nutmeg ; stir well together over the fire 
for a few minutes, and let it get cold. Cut some slices 
of French roll of the day before's baking; dip them 
in milk in which you have beaten up an egg. Spread the 
mince on them thickly. Fry them in hot oil or clarified 
butter, and serve very hot. 

471. Ravioli a la Napolitaine. 

Take some of the best ^N'aples macaroni, parmesan cheese, 
good fresh butter, a dozen livers of chickens, some celery, 
an onion or two, some carrots and turnips. Begin by 
mincing the livers and vegetables very fine, and put 
them into a saucepan to cook in a little butter over a 
gentle fire. IMeanwhile blanch the macaroni, add pepper 
and a little fine spice ; and when done enough let it 
drain. 'Now take the dish you mean to serve it in, and 
which should be rather deep and able to stand the fire ; 
lay some macaroni first in the dish, then a layer of the 
minced livers and vegetables, then one of grated parme- 
san cheese, and so on till the dish is full enough. You 
should end with a layer of cheese. Then set the dish 
over a gentle fire on the stove or in the oven, and let it 
cook for a few minutes. Brown it on the top, and serve 
very hot. 

472. Macaroni a la Kapolitaine. 

Put a pound of macaroni into boiling water, with a 
piece of butter, some salt, and an onion stuck, with 
cloves. Let it boil for three-quarters of an hour ; then 



174 EGGS, CHEESE, ENTREMETS, ETC. 

drain the macaroni, and put it into a saucepan with 
some grated parmesan cheese, r. very little nutmeg, some 
pepper, salt, and as much cream as will make sufficient 
sauce. Let the whole stew gently together a few 
minutes, and serve very hot. These are genuine Nea- 
politan recipes. 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 



473. Gateau au Eiz. 

Two handfuls of rice, a small quantity of lemon-peel, 
half a laurel-leaf, and a pint of milk ; boil together till it 
is quite dry, then put in the yolks of three eggs and one 
white ; sweeten to taste with moist sugar. Butter a 
mould, shake in some fine bread-crumbs, put in the rice, 
and bake three-quarters of an hour. 

474. Gateau de Nouilles. 

Take the yolks of five eggs and the white of one, and 
as much flour as will work it into a stiff paste ; roll it 
out as thin as a wafer, then roll it up very lightly and 
cut it in strings as fine as a packthread ; shake it together 
and throw it into water ready boiling on the fire, and let 
it boil five minutes ; then put it into a colander, and let 
some cold water run through it ; drain it Avell ; butter a 
mould, sprinkle it all over with fine bread-crumbs, then 
put in the nouilles mixed with a quarter of a pound of 
sugar and the grated peel of a lemon. Melt two ounces 
of butter and pour over them, sprinkle some bread- 
crumbs on the top, and bake three-quarters of an hour. 
A gateau of macaroni or vermicelli may be made in the 
same way, previously boiling them tender in a little 
milk with some seasoning, and the yolks of two eggs 
may be added. 



176 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

475. EiCE Pudding without Eggs. 

Put half a pound of rice well washed into three pints of 
milk, with half a pound of moist sugar. Bake till the 
rice is tender. 

476. Tapioca Pudding. 

Boil a pint of cream and a pint of milk with some sugar, 
a pinch of salt, and the rind of a lemon ; when boiling 
put in half a pound of tapioca and let it simmer over a 
slow fire till quite tender, then add a small piece of 
butter and six eggs, previously beaten ; mix well, and 
pour it either into a dish or mould, and bake till it is 
brown on the toip ; if baked in a mould the mould 
should be buttered and strewed with bread-crumbs, 
which makes it turn out better. Tapioca swells very 
much, and requires a long time cooking. If boiled over 
a strong fire and too quickly it becomes tough, therefore 
this is to be avoided. 

477. Poor Man's Tapioca Pudding. 

Put into a stew-pan five ounces of tapioca, one pint of 
new milk, five ounces of sugar, and a little salt ; stir this 
over the fire till it boils, then cover the stew-pan with 
its lid and let it simmer for twenty minutes; add a small 
piece of butter melted in a little cream and the grated 
rind of a lemon. Pour into a well-buttered pudding- 
dish, and bake for a quarter of an hour. 

478. A Pudding without Eggs. 

Boil a pint of milk ; take a thick slice of bread and 
grate it down fine, pour the boiling milk over and cover 
it close up for half an hour ; then add some marmalade, 



rUDDIXGS, JELLIES, PASTIIY, ETC. 177 

grated lemon, or any other flavouring you like, sugar to 
taste, and half a teaspoonful of salt. If you like you 
may also add a glass of wine. Pour all together into a 
pudding-dish and bake for a quarter of an hour. 

479. Arrowroot Pudding. 

One tablespoonful of arrowroot, half a pint of milk, and 
a small quantity of lemon-peel ; put it on a slow fire 
and stir till it boils ; then add the yolks of four eggs, a 
glass of white wine, and a teaspoonful of orange-flower 
water. Beat up the whites of four eggs and stir them 
in lightly. Sweeten to taste with loaf-sugar. Butter a 
mould, place dried cherries round it, or in any form you 
fancy, and pour in the pudding. Set the mould in a 
stew-pan of water, and steam for half an hour, with fire 
on the lid of the stew-pan, which makes it light. Serve 
with an arrowroot and wine-sauce. 

480. Custard Pudding. 

Half a pint of thin cream or new milk, a little loaf- 
sugar, a small bit of laurel-leaf, a very little cinnamon, 
and a small quantity of lemon-peel. Put it on the fire, 
and let it boil ; then let it stand till it is cold, when 
add the yolks of five eggs ; strain through a sieve, butter 
small moulds, put the custard into them, steam twenty 
minutes. Serve with either a wine or custard-sauce. 

481. Baked Custard Pudding. 

Make the custard with eight yolks of eggs, half a pint 
of cream or new milk, half a lemon-peel grated, two 
spoonfuls of orange-flower water, and two ounces of 

N 



178 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTEY, ETC. 

sugar. Boil the milk and add the eggs when cold ; 
then strain ; line a pudding-dish with tart paste, placing 
some round the edge ; put in the custard, and bake till 
set; or line a mould with biscuit paste, fill it with flour, 
and bake it. Wien done, take out the flour, fill it with 
the custard, and put it again in the oven till the custard 
is set and brown at the top. 

4&2. Sago Custard Puddings. 

Take a spoonful and a half of sago, and put it into a 
saucepan with as much water as will cover it, a drop of 
cinnamon, three blades of mace, and some lemon-peel, and 
set it on to boil. When you find it clear and thoroughly- 
done, add to it half a pint of new milk, and keep stirring 
it over the fire. AVhen it becomes thick take it off, 
remove the seasoning, beat the yolks of four and the 
white of one egg well up with half a pint of cream ; 
sweeten to taste ; then take the milk and sago boiling 
hot, and mix well with the cream and eggs. Put it 
into small moulds, and bake or steam for ten minutes. 
Tapioca may be done in the same way. 

483. Ground Eice Custard Puddings 

Boil a pint of new milk with a bay-leaf, two or three 
bitter almonds, and some brown sugar, for a quarter of 
an hour ; take two ounces of ground rice and stir it in 
by degrees while the milk is boiling until thick ; let it 
boil a few minutes longer ; dip your cups in cold water, 
pour the mixture into them, turn them out just before 
serving. They are best eaten cold, with the following 
sauce : — 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTEY, ETC. 179 

Take about half a pint of milk or cream, a little 
whole cinnamon, some lemon-peel, a bay-leaf, and enough 
brown sugar to sweeten it. Boil it a quarter of an hour, 
and when cold add to it three yolks of eggs. Put it on 
the fire again, but do not let it boil. Two minutes before 
you take it off thicken with a little ground rice, with 
the addition of a glass of madeira or sherry. This is a 
good sauce for all puddings that require one. 

484. Lemon Custard Puddings. 

Take the yolks of six eggs and the whites of three, the 
rinds of two lemons grated and the juice of one, half a 
pound of powdered sugar, two Naples biscuits grated, 
and a small glass of brandy. Beat all well together, 
add a pint of good cream and two ounces of fresh butter. 
Butter small moulds, put in the pudding, and bake half 
an hour in a quick oven. This is a very good recipe. 

485. Vermicelli Pudding. 

Take two ounces of vermicelli, boil it in a pint of milk 
till the milk thickens, stirring it all the time it is boil- 
ing ; then add six ounces of butter, half a pound of 
sugar, six yolks and four whites of eggs, and the grated 
rind of^a lemon. Line a dish or shape with puff-paste, 
and boil half an hour. 

486. Macaroni Pudding. 

Simmer one or two ounces of pipe macaroni in a pint 
of milk, with a bit of lemon-peel and cinnamon, till 
tender ; add cream, three yolks of eggs and one white, 



180 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

a little nutmeg, and some sugar. Bake in a dish or 
sliape lined with puff -paste half an hour. 



487. Bread-and-Butter Pudding. 

Cut thin slices of bread and butter, and lay them in a 
well-buttered mould or pudding-dish ; between each 
layer strew currants and a little powdered cinnamon 
and sugar ; fill your dish or mould thus three parts full, 
and pour in a cold custard made with four or six eggs 
(according to the size of the pudding), beaten up with 
cream or milk, and flavoured with lemon-peel ; pour it 
in by little at a time so that the bread may absorb it 
without floating ; when full, bake one hour. If wished 
rather richer, when made in a mould, a little wine or 
brandy may be poured on the bread before the custard. 

488. Batter Pudding. 

Two spoonfuls of fine flour, the whites of two eggs and 
yolk of one, with milk enough to moisten ; beat well 
together and boil twenty minutes. Serve with wine- 
sauce, or eat it with cold butter and brown sugar, 
which is much the best. 

489. BxiTTER Pudding Baked, 

Take six ounces of fine flour, three eggs, and a pinch of 
salt ; add by degrees as much milk as will when well 
beaten mali:e it the consistence of thick cream. Pour 
into a pudding-dish, and bake three-quarters of an hour ; 
or it may be boiled in a basin, buttered and floured, and 
tied up in a cloth. It will require two hours' boiling. 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTllY, ETC. 181 

490. Yorkshire Pudding. 

Six eggs, six heaped tablespoonfuls of flour, and a tea- 
spoonful of salt ; beat and strain the eggs, and mix 
them with the flour. It should be rather a thin batter. 
Heat the pan and rub it with butter or dripping before 
the batter is poured in ; it should be about an inch 
thick. A\T.ien the pudding is browned on one side, turn 
and brown it on the other. It may be made plainer 
with half a pound of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, three 
eggs, and a pint of milk, and baked in a tin under a 
joint of roasting beef or mutton. 

491. Hasty Pudding. 

Boil a pint of milk with a pinch of salt ; while boiling 
stir into it by degrees as much flour as will thicken it, 
pour it out, and eat with cold butter and brown sugar. 

492. Fig Pudding. 

Chop six ounces of suet and half a pound of the best 
figs fine, add three-quarters of a pound of bread-crumbs, 
and four ounces of moist sugar ; mix first the bread and 
suet, then the figs and sugar ; add a little nutmeg, a 
well-beaten egg, and a cup of milk. Boil in a mould 
four hours. 

493. Bread Pudding. 

Put into a stew-pan a pint of bread-crumbs, with as 
much milk as will cover them, the peel of a lemon, 
and a small bit of cinnamon ; boil about ten minutes, 
sweeten with powdered sugar, take out the lemon and 



182 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

cinnamon, and add four eggs. Beat all well together, 
and boil one hour, or bake half an hour. 

494. New College Puddings. 

Beat six yolks and three whites of eggs, mix them with 
one spoonful of flour and four of bread-crumbs ; add a 
little salt and nutmeg, with sugar to taste, four ounces 
of shred suet, and the same of picked and washed 
currants ; mix well together. Make the batter into 
egg-shaped pieces with a spoon, and fry in very hot 
butter, or they may be baked in pattypans. 

495. Puddings in Haste. 

Mix shred suet with grated bread-crumbs, a handful of 
currants cleaned or a few stoned raisins, the beat yolks 
of three eggs and the white of one, with a little grated 
lemon-peel, to a stiffish paste. Poll this in flour, and 
with two spoons make it into small balls ; have ready 
a pan of fast-boiling water, drop them in ; when done 
they will rise to the top. 

496. Sponge-Cake Pudding. 

Steep sponge-cake in brandy, butter a mould and stick 
it over with dried cherries ; put the cake in and make a 
custard with three whole eggs and four yolks, about 
half a pint of milk, and a little sugar and nutmeg ; fill 
up the mould and boil it an hour. Serve with arrow- 
root and brandy sauce. 

497. The Ted worth Albert Pudding. 
Take twelve ounces of bread-crumbs or sponge-cake ; boil 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 183 

a pint of cream and pour it over the crumbs ; leave them 
to soak a Httle, rub off on a piece of lump sugar the 
rind of a lemon ; when pounded it should be about a 
quarter of a pound. Well whip the yolks of six and the 
whites of two eggs. Mix all well together, adding a 
pinch of salt ; butter a mould well, and pour in the mix- 
ture ; boil or steam the pudding one hour and a half ; 
serve with clear wine-sauce. Currants or cherries may 
be added if liked. 

498. Marmalade Pudding. 

Take about half a teacupful of milk, one tablespoonful 
of fine flour, and about two ounces of white sugar ; put 
it on the fire, and stir till it boils ; then add the yolks of 
four eggs, and one small pot of marmalade, reserving 
most of the chips to line the mould with. Mix all well 
up together, then beat up the whites of five eggs, and stir 
them lightly in. Butter a mould and line it completely 
with orange chips, put in the pudding, and steam it for 
half an hour with fire under and over. 

499. Sir Watkin Wynne's Pudding. 

Take ten ounces of bread-crumbs, eight ounces of chopped 
suet, three ounces of pounded sugar, the grated peel and 
juice of two large lemons, three eggs, and a little salt. 
Mix all well together, put it into a mould that will just 
hold it, and boil for three hours. Serve with a clear 
wine-sauce. 

500. Marrow Pudding. 

Take half a pound of marrow from beef bones, grate 
about half a pound of bread into crumbs ; put both into 



184 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

a basin and pour a pint of boiling cream over them, cover 
it close, and let it stand till nearly cold ; beat up six 
eggs very light and mix them in, add a little grated nut- 
meg and cinnamon, a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, 
and a spoonful of smooth marmalade. If liked a small 
glass of brandy may also be added Mix all well to- 
gether, butter a mould, lay it with dried cherries or 
orange-chips, put in the pudding, and boil one hour ; or 
it may be baked for the same time in a dish with good 
puff-paste round the edge. 

501. Sunday Pudding. 

Take half a pint of raisins, and half a pound of currants, 
the same of suet chopped fine and of bread-crumbs, one 
tablespoonful of flour, half a glass of brandy, a small 
piece of lemon-peel chopped fine, three ounces of moist 
sugar, four eggs, and one teacupful of milk. Mix all 
these ingredients well together, put it in your mould, 
and boil four hours. 

502. Plibi Puddings. 

Suet, flour, currants, and stoned raisins, of each one 
pound, the rind of a lemon grated, four eggs, as much 
milk as will mix it into a proper consistency, and a wine- 
glassful of brandy. Flour a cloth, tie it up tight, and 
boil eight or nine hours ; or it may be boiled the same 
time in a mould. Instead of all flour, half the weight of 
bread-crumbs is an improvement. 

503. A Rich Plum Pudding. 

Four ounces of bread-crumbs, two ounces of flour, half a 
pound of muscatel raisins stoned, the same quantity of 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 185 

picked and washed currants, a pound of sliced kidney 
suet, a quarter of a pound powdered sugar, a saltspoon- 
ful of salt, a little mixed spice, two ounces of candied 
lemon, orange, or citron peel, chopped ; the rind of two, 
and the juice of one lemon ; beat six eggs well with 
some new milk, and a glassful of brandy. Mix all well 
together, and let it stand two or three hours. Scald and 
flour a cloth, tie the pudding in firmly, and boil for five 
hours briskly. 

504. Mince Pies. 

Take a good fat salted bullock's tongue ; parboil, skin, 
mince, or scrape two pounds of it. Mince separately 
two pounds of beef Iddney suet, the same of good sound 
apples peeled and cored, half a pound of candied citron 
and orange peel, a pound and a half of stoned raisins ; 
add two pounds of picked and washed currants, an ounce 
of mixed spices, a teaspoonful of salt, a pound of sugar, 
the grated rind and juice of two lemons, and two Seville 
oranges. Mix well, and keep in jars in a cool airy place. 
Before using, moisten with a pint and a half of sherry, 
half a pint of brandy, and the same quantity of orange- 
flower water. Cover baking-pans of any size ^vith rich 
pufi'-paste, fill with the minced meat, put a cover of 
paste over, trim the edges neatly with a cutter, glaze 
them with sugar, and bake half an hour in a moderate 
oven. The minced meat should only be moistened just 
before using, and the apples are better added in the same 
way, or they may be omitted altogether. 

505. Monday Pudding. 

Place some slices of Sunday pudding at the bottom of a 
mould, take half a pint of thin cream or new milk, a 



186 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTEY, ETC. 

very little cinricamon, a little lemon-peel, and one laurel- 
leaf; set it over a slow fire and let it boil, then add the 
yolks of four eggs ; beat it all up together, and strain it 
through a sieve over the plum-pudding in the mould ; 
then set the mould in a stew-pan of water, and steam it 
half an hour. 

506. Ratafia Pudding. 

Grate a large slice of stale bread, boil a pint of cream or 
new milk, put the bread in a basin and pour the cream 
over, and cover the basin with a plate. Pound two 
ounces of sweet almonds and two or three bitter ones 
with a little cold milk or cream till they are quite 
smooth ; mix it with the bread in the basin, beat up six 
eggs till they are quite light, and add them, also a very 
little cinnamon and nutmeg grated, a little sugar, and a 
glass of brandy. Mix all well together; butter a mould, 
pour in the ingredients and put it to boil in a pan of 
boiling water for an hour, taking care to keep the water 
at the same height by adding more as it boils down, but 
be careful it does not boil over into the mould, which 
should have a cover and weight on it. Turn it out and 
serve with a custard-sauce poured over it (see Pudding 
Sauces). 

507. Muffin Pudding. 

A pint of milk boiled, sweetened, and flavoured with 
cinnamon and lemon-peel ; strain it and add the yolks 
of four eggs. Take half a pound of ratafia biscuit 
crumbled down, two muffins sliced, some dried cherries, 
half a gill of brandy and the same of sweet wine ; butter 
a mould well with fresh butter, stick the cherries on the 
inside, then put in a layer of grated biscuit, next of 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 187 

muffin, and so on alternately, till the mould is near full, 
then pour in the brandy and wine. Three-quarters of 
an hour before you wish to serve the pudding add the 
custard as above, and put the mould into a stew-pan of 
boiling water, taking care that the water does not get in 
over the top of the mould. Serve with a wine-sauce. 

508. Cabinet Pudding. 

Boil a pint of cream with a bit of lemon-peel and a little 
salt ; pour the cream while boiling over six pounds of 
sponge or Naples biscuits, and let them soak ; then add 
the yolks of eight eggs, and the beaten whites of six, 
also a little brandy ; butter a mould, decorate it with 
preserved cherries, pour in the mixture, and put it into a 
bain marie to steam for half an hour ; serve either with 
a clear wine or custard sauce. This pudding may also 
be made with the remains of Savoy biscuits, or the 
crumb of a French roll or penny loaf. 

509. Ginger Pudding. 

Take twelve sponge-biscuits soaked in a pint oi cream 
or milk, ten yolks of eggs, two ounces of preserved wet 
ginger cut in small pieces, a spoonful of the ginger-syrup, 
and two ounces of dissolved butter ; boil it half an hour 
in a buttered mould au bain marie, or bake it in a dish 
lined with puff-paste. Pine-apple pudding may be made 
the same. Serve with a custard-sauce flavoured with 
ginger or pine-apple. 

510. Lemon Pudding. 

Take eight yolks and four whites of eggs, a quarter of a 
pound of sugar, one pound of butter, half a pint of 



188 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

cream, the juice of one lemon and the grated peel of two. 
Mix well together, put it in a form of puff-paste, and 
bake about half an hour. 

511. Another Lemon Pudding. 

A teacupful of water, two ounces of butter, one ounce of 
loaf-sugar, the juice and grated rinds of two lemons. 
Boil all together for ten minutes, then add the yolks of 
eight eggs well beaten ; stir without ceasing after putting 
in the eggs till it is as thick as custard ; take the pan off 
the fire. Have ready, half baked, a shell of puff-paste, pour 
in the pudding, and bake for half an hour ; or it may be 
baked in a dish lined with puff-paste. 

512. Orange Pudding. 

Take three China orange skins, boil them in rose water 
till tender, pound them in a mortar ; add twelve yolks 
of eggs, twelve ounces of sugar, and six ounces of butter. 
Beat all well together in the mortar till thoroughly mixed ; 
put it into a shell of puff-paste, and bake half an hour. 

513. DuNNiKiER Orange Pudding. 

Take five ounces of butter, melt it in a pan, but do not 
let it oil ; add to it while warm five ounces of sugar, and 
the yolks of ten eggs beaten ; mix well together, and 
beat till the mixture turns white. Have the bottom of a 
baking tin covered with puff-paste ; spread thickly on it 
orange marmalade, and pour the rest of the ingredients 
over; bake in a moderate oven about half an hour; turn 
it out of the tin and serve. Pine-apple and apricot may 
be made in the same way. This is an excellent recipe. 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 189 

514. Apricot Pudding. 

Take twelve large apricots, scald them till they are soft ; 
pour on the grated crumb of a penny loaf, a pint of 
cream boiling hot ; when cool, add four ounces of sugar, 
the yolks of four eggs well beaten, and a glass of madeira 
or sherry. Pound the apricots in a mortar with the 
kernels ; then mix the fruit and other ingredients well 
together. Line a pattypan with puff-paste, put in the 
pudding, and bake half an hour. 

515. Gooseberry Pudding. 

Stew gooseberries in a stone jar over a hot stove, or 
placed in a saucepan of water, till they will pulp ; rub 
them through a coarse sieve, and take a pint of the pulp 
and beat it with three whole eggs, previously whipped 
together and strained, an ounce and a half of butter, and 
as much sugar as will sweeten it ; add some crumbs of roll, 
or four ounces of Naples biscuit, to give it consistence ; put 
into a shape of puff-paste, and bake half an hour. 

516. Apple Pudding. 

Stew some apples, and pulp them through a sieve. To 
about half a pound of apples, after they are pulped, add six 
ounces of melted, but not oiled butter, in which mix as 
much sugar as will just sweeten the pudding ; add the 
yolks of six eggs, and the whites of four, whipped. Mix 
all with the apples, and beat it very light ; add the rind of 
a lemon. Cover the bottom of a baking-tin with puff- 
paste, and pour the pudding into it ; bake in a moderate 
oven half an hour, strew sugar over it, and serve. 



190 puddings, jellies, pastry, etc. 

517. Another Apple Pudding. 

Peel one dozen and a half of good apples, take out the 
cores, cut them small, and put them into a stew-pan that 
will just hold them, with a little water, a little cinnamon, 
two cloves, and the peel of a lemon ; stew over a slow fire 
tiU quite soft, sweeten with moist sugar, and rub through 
a hair sieve ; add to it the yolks of four eggs, and the 
white of one, a quarter of a pound of good butter, a little 
nutmeg, the juice and grated peel of one lemon. Beat 
all well together ; butter a mould, put in the pudding, 
and bake or boil half an hour ; serve with a custard-sauce 
made without wine. 

518. Citron Pudding. 

Slice half a pound of citron thin, and shred it very small ; 
pound it with half a pound of powdered sugar in a marble 
mortar till well incorporated. Beat the yolks of twelve 
eggs to a cream ; mix them by degrees with the citron, 
beating well together ; add as much spinach-juice as will 
make it a fine green ; bake in a shape of puff-paste ; just 
before putting it in the oven add five ounces of oiled 
butter and a little brandy. ^ 

519. Riz Meringuee. 

Take six ounces of rice, put it in a quart of milk, and 
set it over a slow fire to simmer till the rice swells and 
gets thick ; add half a pint of good thick cream, and 
let it simmer till it gets thick again ; then take it off the 
fire, have six ratafia biscuits dried and crumbled small, 
a quarter of a pound of sugar, and the gi\ated peel of a 
lemon ready to put into it. Mix all well together, and 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 191 

let it stand by the fire till the first course is served. 
Whip the whites of three eggs to a fine froth, stir it 
quickly into the rice, put it into the dish it will be 
served in, and set it over a stove. Sprinkle sugar over 
when nearly done, brown with a salamander, and serve. 

520. Sweet Omelette. 

Break six eggs, separate the whites, mix the yolks with 
a quarter of a pound of sugar, two spoonfuls of flour, 
the peel of a lemon grated, and a very little mace. 
Whisk the whites to a, stiff froth, then mix all together 
and fry it. When done at the bottom, turn it into a 
a dish, sift fine powdered sugar over it, and glaze it 
with a hot salamander. 

521. Cream Soufflie. 

Take three yolks of eggs, three spoonfuls of flour, one 
spoonful of maraschino ; mix them together, and add a 
pint of cream ; beat up four whites of eggs to a strong 
froth, and stir them in. Bake in a case, and sift 
pounded sugar over. 

522. SouFFii:. 

Souffles require the greatest care in their preparation 
and baking ; their lightness mainly depends on the 
proper whisking of the eggs, but also much on the oven 
being the right heat. Experience alone can determine 
this. They should be served the moment they come 
out of the oven, or they will fall and become heavy. 
They are better under than over done. A really good 
souffle cannot be made without practice and experience. 



I 

192 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

If it fails, there is one consolation, that a souffle 
" manque " generally makes a very good pudding. They 
should be baked in a proper souffle-dish, which is double, 
the inside case being put in the oven, and then placed 
in the finer one when sent to table. 

Souffle. — A quarter of a pound of fine flour, half a pint 
of cream, and a piece of butter the size of a nutmeg ; stir 
this constantly together in a stew-pan over a slow fire 
till it is very thick ; then add the yolks of five eggs, half 
a pint of new milk, and sugar to your taste. Flavour 
with orange-flower, vanille, or what you please. Stir it 
well together, but not on the fire ; beat the whites of 
five eggs to a strong froth, and mix it lightly in. Bake 
in a gentle oven half an hour. Take care it is served 
immediately it comes out of the oven. Sprinkle a little 
sugar on the top. 

523. SOUFFLIE AU Riz. 

Boil two ounces of rice flour in a pint of milk quite 
thick, stirring it all the time till cold ; mix with it four 
yolks of eggs, the peel of a lemon grated, and half a 
pound of fine powdered sugar. Whisk twelve whites of 
eggs to a very stiff froth, and stir them quickly and 
lightly in. Bake in a case or mould, and sift pounded 
sugar over the top before serving. It may be flavouied 
with vanille, orange-flower, coff'ee, ginger, etc. 

524. Souffle de Fecule de Pomme de Terre. 

Mix two ounces of potato-flour with half a pint of boil- 
ing cream, in which you have infused the peel of a 
lemon ; add a little sugar, a large lump of butter, and 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 193 

a very little salt ; break six eggs, and add the yolks of 
four of them ; now beat the six whites to a froth, which 
pour gently into the mixture, and then the whole into 
a souffle-dish, which place in a moderate oven. When 
done enough powder a little sugar over, and serv^e the 
moment it comes out of the oven. The sugar must of 
course predominate over the salt ; but observe, that the 
less sugar there is in a souffle the lighter it will be. 

525. Omelette Souffle. 

Break six eggs ; separate the yolks and whites ; add to 
the yolks two spoonfuls of sugar, a little orange-flower 
water, or a few drops of spirit of lemons. Work them 
well together. Whip the whites to a firm froth, and 
mix lightly with the rest. Put into the frying-pan a 
small bit of butter ; let it melt, that the pan may be 
buttered all over ; pour in the omelette, set it on a slow 
fire, and take care it does not burn. In a minute or 
two, when it has set, turn it out upon the dish it is to 
be served on. Sift sugar over, and put it in the oven. 
As soon as it has risen, take it out and serve imme- 
diately. 

526. Pancakes. 

A spoonful of flour, a pint of new milk, and a little 
cream, if you have it, mixed well ; the yokes and whites 
of three eggs beat together, but not too much, as it 
makes the pancakes tough, added, with sugar to your 
taste, and a teaspoonful of salt ; they may be flavoured 
also with grated lemon-peel, or whatever is liked. Melt 
a piece of butter in a frying-pan ; pour in, when it is hot, 
as much of the batter as will cover the bottom of the 



194 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

pan, fry brown on l)otli sides, roll up the pancake, and 
serve very hot with sugar sprinkled over them. 

527. English Pancakes. 

Take six yolks of eggs, break them into a bowl, sepa- 
rating the whites, which beat up until they are quite 
light ; beat the yolks also with a little sifted sugar, a 
teacupful of cream, and a quarter of a pound of flour ; 
mix in the whites, have a good clear fire ready, put a 
bit of fresh butter into the frying-pan, and when it 
froths pour in a breald'ast-cupful of the batter; keep 
shaking the pan for a little, loosen the batter round the 
edge with the point of a knife, give it a shake, toss it 
over, and do it the same time on the other side ; then 
turn it over, and lay them on a hot dish. Cook as many 
as you require in the same way. Strew sugar over and 
serve very hot. Lemon should be served with them, 
but separately. 

528. French Pancakes. 

Take four eggs, beat the whites quickly to a snow ; then 
beat the yolks up with a spoonful of fine sugar, two 
spoonfuls of flour and one of cream. Mix all together, 
and fry in butter of a light brown colour. Lay it over 
with apricot marmalade, fold it up, and serve very hot. 

529. French Thick Pancake. 

Take the yolks of four eggs, and beat them up with 
four tablespoonfuls of sugar till very light, add a table- 
spoonful of orange or jDine-apple marmalade, a little nut- 
meg, four tablespoonfuls of flour, and four of good 
cream : whisk the whites to a snow, and mix all well 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTllY, ETC. 195 

together ; pour the batter into an omelette-pan, in which 
you have melted a piece of butter. Fry on a slow fire of 
a light brown ; turn it over, strew sugar over it either 
simply or glazed with a salamander. 

530. French Light Pancakes. 

Mix the yolks of seven eggs, half a pint of cream, and 
one ounce of butter broken up into small pieces, with 
three spoonfuls of flour ; wliisk the whites of the eggs to 
a snow, a,nd when ready to be fried mix all together. 
Fry in a very little butter as thin as possible ; do not 
turn them in the pan, but as they are done turn them 
out one upon the other, sifting sugar between till you 
have enough. A few seconds is enough to cook each, 
but they must not be left for a minute till they are 
served, and should be very hot. 

531. Rice Pancakes. 

A quarter of a pound of rice boiled quite tender in milk, 
pounded in a mortar with a little sugar, nutmeg, and 
cream ; add four eggs well beaten, mix all together, and 
fry them like other pancakes. 

532. Cheesecakes. 

Beat a quart of milk with eight eggs till it comes to a 
curd, strain the whey from it, and put the curd, with a 
quarter of a pound of butter, three eggs, and three 
spoonfuls of sugar, into a mortar; beat and mix tho- 
roughly, add half a nutmeg and a little salt. Bake in 
very light puff-paste cases. 



196 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

533. Curd Cheesecakes. 

Beat in a mortar till it looks like butter a pound and a 
half of clieese-curd, with ten ounces of butter; add a 
quarter of a pound of almonds previously pounded with 
orange-flower water, a pound of sugar, eight yolks and 
four whites of eggs, and a little cream. It will take a 
quarter of an hour to incorporate all these ingredients 
thoroughly. Bake in puff-paste in a quick oven. 

634. Almond Cheesecakes. 

Take six ounces of sweet and three of bitter almonds, 
and beat them fine in the mortar ; add eight eggs well 
whipped, twelve ounces of loaf-sugar, half a pound of 
fresh butter carefully melted, and four ounces of ground 
rice. Mix well together, and beat it up for half an 
hour. Bake in pattypans lined with puff-paste in a 
moderate oven. 

535. Lemon Cheesecakes. 

The peel of two lemons boiled in two or three waters 
till tender ; pound them with six ounces of sugar ; add 
the yolks of six eggs beaten up well with six ounces of 
melted butter and the juice of half a lemon. Bake in 
pattypans lined with puff-paste in a quick oven. 

536. Orange Cheesecakes. 

Blanch half a pound of sound sweet almonds, and beat 
them very fine with two spoonfuls of orange-flower 
water, half a pound of fine pounded sugar, three quarters 
of a pound of melted butter added when almost cold, 
eight yolks and four whites of eggs. When well beaten 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 197 

and mixed, strain it. Boil the peel of a Seville orange 
till the bitterness is out, pound it fine, and mix with 
the rest. Bake in very light puflf-paste. This is an in- 
comparable cheesecake. Orange, apricot, or pine-apple 
marmalade may be substituted for the Seville orange- 
peeL 

537. Egg Cheese. 

Take a quart of new milk, add to it sixteen yolks and 
eight whites of eggs ; beat and strain them ; then put 
in a piece of sugar dissolved in water, a large piece of 
cinnamon, the rinds of a lemon and an orange. Mix 
well together ; and before you set it on the fire, squeeze 
in the juice of a lemon. Let the fire be slow, and stir 
with a wooden spoon from the bottom till you see it 
come to a soft curd ; then take it ofi' and put it to drain 
in a frame. Let it hang two hours, and serve, covering 
it with the following cream : — A quart of cream, eight 
yolks of eggs, a piece of sugar dissolved in water, half a 
spoonful of fine flour, a piece of cinnamon, the rind of 
an orange and a lemon. Set over a slow fire, whisk till 
it begins to bubble ; take it off, let it get cold, and 
serve, poured over the cheese. 

538. Portugal Eggs. 

Take nine eggs and boil them hard ; pound them in a 
mortar with some sugar, a little pounded cinnamon, and 
nutmeg ; add two raw eggs to bind them. Roll the 
paste, with your hands well floured, into eight or nine 
round balls ; then take half a pint of good cream, put it 
into a pan with some sugar, a stick of cinnamon or 
vanille, and the rind of a lemon ; add the egg-balls ; let 



198 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

them stew gently over a slow fire, moving the pan 
occasionally. When you think they are done enough, 
take them out carefully with a spoon, arrange them on 
a dish, pour the cream over, and serve. 

539. (Eurs a la Neige. 

Beat to a strong froth some whites of eggs, and boil it 
in milk with a little salt ; cut them all of a size with a 
spoon, and set them to drain. Boil a pint of cream ; 
when it is boiling throw in the outer rind of half a 
lemon, a little sugar, and a very small quantity of salt ; 
beat the yolks of four eggs with the cream, and let it 
thicken on the fire, stirring it continually. AVlien thick 
enough strain through a tammy and pour over the oeufs 
a la neige, which you must previously arrange on the dish 
they are to be sent to table in. The flavouring of this 
sauce may be varied with vanille, almond, rose, etc. 

540. Pate 1 Fpjre. 

Sift half a pound of flour, put it into a dish with two 
spoonfuls of oil, a little salt, and three yolks of eggs ; 
moisten it with small beer in such quantities that the 
paste is not stringy ; work it till it is of the consistency 
of thick cream ; whip one or two whites of eggs and 
mix them lightly with the paste. Make it two or three 
hours before it is wanted ; remember that the lightness 
of the paste depends upon the whites of eggs being well 
whipped. The paste may be made with butter instead 
of oil, and with hot water instead of beer, adding a glass 
of white wine. The fat taken from the stock-pot makes 
the best fritters, after that the kidney fat of beef minced. 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 199 

Fine oil is also good, but hog's lard softens them and 
prevents theii- being so crisp. 

541. Creme Patissiere. 

Break two eggs into a stew-pan, with a little salt and as 
much sifted flour as they will take up ; mbc in a pint of 
new milk, put it on the fire, stir constantly that it may 
not stick till you do not smell the flour ; then add a 
lump of butter the size of a walnut, put it into a dish, 
and rub a little butter over it that it may not harden on 
the outside. 

542. CrMe Frangipane. 

Take the above creme, add to it a little sugar, a spoon- 
ful or two of orange-flower water, and some crumbled 
macaroons. Mix all well together till it is quite smooth ; 
then add eggs to it, mixing them in one by one till it is 
of the consistence of thick soup. To be used for tourte 
de frangipane, cream tartlets, fritters, etc. 

543. Gateau aux Pistaches. 

Make a creme patissiere (which see). Blanch a quarter 
of a pound of pistachios and of sweet almonds ; pound 
them together, occasionally adding a drop of water to 
prevent their oiling. When quite smooth take them out 
of the mortar, have ready prepared a spoonful of spinach 
blanched, pressed in butter, beaten and rubbed through 
a colander : add this to the paste, and put both into 
the cream, which should have as much flour in it as it 
will take. Add now three-quarters of a pound of sifted 
sugar, a teaspoonful of orange-flower water, four whole 
eggs, six yolks, and a quarter of a pound of melted 



200 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

butter. Mix all well together. Whip the six whites, 
mix them in lightly. Prepare a stew-pan by buttering 
it with clarified butter, drain it and powder it all over 
with fine crumbs of bread ; put in the mixture and bake 
it in the oven for three-quarters of an hour. Serve 
immediately it comes out. 

544. Genoises Glace a l'Italienne. 

Put into a sweetmeat-pan five ounces of sugar and five 
eggs ; mix as for a biscuit ; add a quarter of a pound of 
sweet almonds beaten, and the same quantity of flour ; 
butter a baking-sheet, roll the paste the thiclmess of a 
crown-piece, lay it on the sheet, and bake of a fine 
colour in a quick oven. Wlien done you may cut it into 
any form you please. Clarify a pound of sugar, put the 
pan into cold water, and gather the sugar; mix gradually 
the whites of five eggs well whisked with it ; glaze the 
tops of the genoises with this, and set them to dry for a 
quarter of an hour in the stove. 

545. Gateau a la Reine. 
Beat a pound of sweet almonds to a paste ; add a pound 
of sifted sugar, and four whites of eggs, by degrees. 
When well mixed, it may be cut into what shapes you 
fancy. Bake in a slow oven, and glaze the same as the 
genoises. 

546. Gateau Napolitaine a la Chantilly. 

Weigh one pound of flour, eight ounces of sifted sugar, 
eight ounces of pounded sweet almonds, and the same 
of butter ; mix them on the pastry slab with five yolks 
of eggs, the zest of two oranges rubbed off" on a piece of 



PUDLINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 201 

sugar, and a very little salt. Work all well together. 
When thoroughly mixed, knead the paste into the form 
of a rolling-pin, and divide into twelve equal parts. 
Knead these again into round balls, and roll them out 
to about seven inches diameter. Cut them all the same 
size with a circular cutter, prick them all over with a 
fork, egg them, and lay them on previously buttered 
baking-tins, and bake them in a moderate oven, keeping 
them a light colour. AVhen they are done, lay a weight 
on them to keep them flat, till they are cold ; then lay 
one upon another, with a layer of apricot or other jam 
between each. The sides and top may be iced with 
sugar, or decorated according to taste. 

547. Baba. 

Take half an ounce of salt, five whole eggs, a pound and 
a half of butter, the same quantity of picked raisins, half 
that quantity of currants, a little powdered saffron, and 
a small quantity of yeast. Make a hole in the centre of 
a pound of flour ; put all these things in, and work it 
Avith a little warm water to a smooth and not too stiff" 
paste. E,ub a saucepan with butter, and put in the 
baba. If in winter, leave it five or six hours to rise ; in 
summer it will not require so long. When it has risen 
bake like any other cake in a moderate oven. 

548. Beignets de Pommes 1 la Bavarie. 

Pare and quarter some large pij)pins ; lay them to soak 
in brandy with some fine sugar, cinnamon, and lemon- 
peel ; turn theirf often, and, when near dinner-time, dry 
them in a cloth, roll them about in flour, and fry them 



202 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

tender in hot lard. Dish, and sift over them a quan- 
tity of fine sugar, and colour them with a salamander. 

549. Beignets de P:&ches au Vin du Rhin. 

These should be made of a fleshy kind of peach, and 
each cut in two. Put them to soak in some Elienish 
wine, with plenty of sugar, some cinnamon and lemon- 
peel. Wlien ready to serve, dry them, and fry in hot 
lard, without any flour. Strain the wine into a stew- 
pan, and boil it to a syrup ; add the kernels of the 
peaches blanched and split, and pour it over the fruit 
when dished. Any sort of large good fruit may be done 
in the same way, with the difference only that they 
should be dipped in a thin batter made with flour and 
small beer. 

550. Beignets de Fraises. 

Make a batter thus : To two eggs, whites and yolks, 
well beat, put half a pint of cream thickened with fine 
flour, sugar, and a little cinnamon. Put the strawberries 
raw into this batter, and fry them in a pan of hot lard, 
a spoonful at a time. Dish them in a pyramid, and sift 
sugar between and over them. Raspberries and other 
fruit are good done in the same way. 

551. Beignets d'Orange. 

Take four or five sweet oranges, and slice off the peel 
with a knife ; cut them in quarters, and take out the 
pips ; put them on the fire with a little sugar. Mix 
some white wine, a little flour, a spoonful of good oil, 
and a very little salt together ; it should be of the con- 
sistency of thick cream. Dip the quarters of oranges in 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 203 

this batter, and fry them in hot lard of a good colour ; 
sift sucrar over them and salamander them. 



552. Beignets d'Abricots. 

Take apricots that are not too ripe ; cut them in two, 
take out the stone, pare, and put them to soak in brandy 
for an hour with a little sugar and lemon-peel. A little 
before serving, drain and dip them into a pate k frire 
(which see) ; fry them in butter to a good colour, sift 
sugar over them, and glaze either in the oven or with a 
salamander. 

553. Beignets en Surprise. 

Take small rennet apples ; leave the stalks on ; peel 
and cut them in two near the top ; take out the heart 
with a round-topped knife ; put them to steep in a little 
brandy with some lemon-peel and whole cinnamon; 
drain and fill them very full with apricot marmalade or 
creme patissiere (which see). Mix the yolk of an egg 
with a little flour, fix the tops of the apples well on 
with this, that they may look whole ; dip them into pate 
a frire ; fry, sugar, glaze, and serve. 

554. Beignets de Groseilles. 

Make a rich paste, and roll out very thin ; brush it all 
over with egg, and lay the currants, preserved or fresh, 
down in little lumps on it. Prepare another sheet of 
paste, and lay over it, pressing well down at the edges, 
that they may not come out in frying. Make the lard 
pretty hot, fry of a good yellow colour, dish with fine 
sifted sugar over them, and glaze with a salamander. 



204 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

555. Spanish Fritters. 

Cut the crumb of a French roll into lengths as thick as 
your finger ; soak them in cream with some nutmeg, 
pounded cinnamon, sugar, and an egg beaten up in it ; 
when well soaked, fry them in butter of a good brown, 
and serve very hot. 

556. Strawberry Toasts. 

Soak thin long-shaped pieces of bread in cream, lay 
good red strawberries on them, and fry in butter ; or 
fry them crisp in butter without soaking the bread, 
which many prefer. 

557. Pine-apple Toasts. 

Pound the pine-apple to a pulp with some sugar, then 
spread it neatly on thin pieces of bread ; fry them crisp 
in clarified butter, and serve. 

55 S. Prussian Fritters. 

Stew well a dozen of apples, sweeten them sufiiciently ; 
a small bit of cinnamion or a few cloves should be stewed 
with them. When done enough, set them to cool ; have 
ready some pufi'-paste rolled thin and cut into rounds 
about the size of the top of a teacup ; lay a teaspoonful 
of the apple marmalade on one of these pieces, brush 
round the edges with egg, and lay another piece of paste 
on the top ; press the edges close together, and trim 
them neatly with a smaller cutter. Proceed thus till 
you have enough for your dish. Fry them quickly in 
butter, that they may not become sodden. Arrange 
them on the dish, after having sifted pounded sugar 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 205 

over them, and passed a salamander over them on both 
sides. 

559. Croquettes de Eiz 1 la Fleur d'Orange. 

Take six ounces of picked and well- washed rice ; set it 
on the fire with three-quarters of a pint of new milk or 
cream ; when the rice is tender add three ounces of 
butter, three ounces of powdered sugar, and four yolks 
of eggs. Mix all well together, and set it again on the 
fire to acquire some consistence. Flavour it with orange- 
flower water, or you may use vanille, citron, or any other 
flavouring you prefer. TOien the mixture is firm enough 
take the saucepan ofi" the fire and turn it on to a dish to 
cool ; when cold take a spoonful of the rice according to 
the size you vrish the croquettes to be, and dip it into 
some very finely-sifted bread-crumbs, which you have 
previously prepared ; roll them of a neat shape, and dip 
them into three eggs well beaten up in a basin, and 
again into the bread-crumbs ; roll them well, and fry 
them quickly of a fine clear brown. Just before serving 
sift sugar over them, and send them up very hot. 

560. Rice Fritters. 

A quarter of a pound of ground rice boiled tender in a 
very little milk, with a bit of cinnamon, a laurel-leaf, 
and a small piece of lemon-peel; when done enough 
take out the seasoning. Grease a stew-pan with a little 
bit of fresh butter, put in the rice and stir into it two 
ounces of sugar and the yolks of two eggs. Work it well 
over the fire till it comes to a paste, then spread it on a 
well-floured board ; when cool throw a little flour on it, 



206 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

cut it in pieces, and roll into small balls or long-shaped 
rolls ; dip them lightly into the beaten yolk of an egg, 
and then roll them in very fine bread-crumbs ; repeat 
this a second time, then fry them in very hot lard a good 
brown, shake some powdered sugar over, and serve. 

561. German Puffs. 

Make a smooth batter with three tablespoonfuls of 
flour and a little cream ; beat up the yolks of four and 
the whites of three eggs, and mix with the batter. Add 
sugar to taste, a little powdered cinnamon, and a pinch 
of salt ; then melt in a little cream a piece of fresh 
butter the size of a walnut; let it get cold, and mix all 
well together. Butter small moulds well, fill them half 
full, and bake for ten minutes in a moderate oven. Serve 
with wine-sauce. 

562. Rice-Cakes. 

Beat up five yolks and one white of eggs, a quarter of a 
pound of sifted sugar, and a little pounded cinnamon well 
together ; pound in a mortar half an ounce of sweet and 
four bitter almonds ; while pounding add by degrees the 
eggs, etc.; when sufficiently mixed it should look like 
thick cream ; then add to the mixture a quarter of a 
pound of ground rice, a large wineglassful of brandy, and 
a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, melted ; pour this 
when well beaten together into buttered pattypans, and 
bake about a quarter of a hour. 

563. Lemon Puffs. 

Beat the juice of a lemon with half a pound of finely- 
powdered sugar, adding as you beat it the wliite of an 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 207 

e^g whipped to snow ; when well beaten add three eggs 
and the rind of a lemon finely grated, beat again till 
well mixed. Strew some sheets of paper with sugar, drop 
the mixture on them, sift a little sugar over, and bake in 
the oven. 

564. Dampfnudel (Bavarian). 

Take a pound of flour, one ounce and a half of yeast, and 
rather more than a quarter of a pint of hot milk. Set the 
paste to work in a warm place the same as for bread. 
AMien it has well risen add a quarter of a pound of 
melted butter, two whole eggs, and four ounces of 
pounded sugar ; mix and beat the paste well, and let it 
swell again. When it begins to rise make it with your 
hands into small balls, and place them on a well-buttered 
cold dish, then place them in a gentle heat to rise. 
MTien they have attained double their original size put 
them into a hot oven, and when about half cooked pour 
over a cup of milk sweetened and flavoured with essence 
of vanille ; finish cooking them, and serve with a sauce 
of whipped eggs and cream, a la vanille. 

565. ZWEIBACH. 

Put through a tammy into a bowl half a pound of flour, 
and set it in a warm place to heat moderately ; while 
this is doing make half a glass of milk just lukewarm, 
with a quarter of a pound of butter, some sugar, and a 
pinch of salt. When this is well mixed add the flour, 
mixing it well in with the yolks of two and the white of 
one egg. Wlien well incorporated add a teaspoonful of 
beer yeast passed through a tammy. The paste should be 
of a consistency fit to roll with the hands j if too soft 



208 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

more flour may be added. EoU the paste into round 
balls, which when baked should be about the size of 
billiard-balls. Bake in a quick oven. 



PUDDING SAUCES. 

56Q. Custard-Sauce. 

Boil together some sugar and cream ; beat up the yolk of 
an egg, and add it to the boiling cream with a glass of 
sherry or madeira ; stir well, and serve. 

567. Brandy Butter Sauce for Plum Pudding. 

A quarter of a pound of butter to be beaten with a 
wooden spoon all one way till it looks like thick cream ; 
then add a quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar (less is better), 
a glass of sherry, and a small glass of brandy ; mix well 
with the butter and sugar, adding only a small quantity 
at a time. 

568. Gert^ian Pudding-Sauce. 

Just bring to the boil half a pint of white wine, with a 
little lemon-peel and sugar in it ; beat up well the yolks 
of seven eggs, and pour the hot wine over them ; whisk 
it or mill it to a froth, and serve with almost any boiled 
pudding. 

569. Sabajone or Sabaillon. 

Mix eight very fresh yolks of eggs with three glasses of 
madeira or sherry wine, some sugar, and a little cinnamon. 
Put all into a saucepan over a quick fire ; do not let it 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTEY, ETC. 209 

boil, but beat it constantly till it rises and is of the con- 
sistency of thick cream. This is an excellent pudding- 
sauce, but in Italy it is poured into glasses and eaten by 
itself, being served at balls, etc. 

570. ArPvOWROOT-Sauce. 

Mix smooth with cold water a spoonful or two of arrow- 
root, pour boiling water over it, stirring continually till 
it is smooth and clear ; then put it into a saucepan with 
a glass of sherry, a bit of lemon-peel, and a little sugar ; 
heat thoroughly, stirring all the time, take out the lemon- 
peel, and serve. 

571. Wine-Sauce. 

Make some thin melted butter, sweeten it with brown 
sugar, add a little grated lemon-peel, or a little nutmeg, 
and two glasses of sherry or madeira ; make it quite hot, 
but do not let it boil, and serve immediately. 



PASTEY. 

572. To MAKE Puff-Pastry. 

Take rather more butter than flour — about half a pound 
of flour makes a good dish of pastry. Mix lightly with 
your hands rather less than half the butter with all the 
flour, then add some water and mix again, but work it 
as little with your hands as possible ; roll it out, then 
put into the centre of the sheet the rest of the butter, 
and fold it up into six folds ; then roll it out again, and 



210 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

refold it in the same way ; repeat this three times ; lastly, 
fold it only in three, roll it once more out, and it is ready 
to use, and can be cut into any form you please. For 
shells, tartlets, or patties, it should be about three-quar- 
ters of an inch thick ; for puffs, etc., it must be rolled 
thinner. 

573. Paste for Eaised Pies. 

Take two ounces of butter and three pounds of flour ; 
pour on it a pint of boiling water, mix it into a very 
stiff paste, put it into a covered stew-pan, and set it near 
the fire to heat for half an hour ; then knead it well, 
and raise it in a pie or other shape to suit ; wash it 
well over with egg beaten up ; ornament the sides in 
any way you choose ; fill it with bran, and bake in a, 
moderate oven of a light brown. 

574. Paste for Lining Moulds or Timbales. 

One pound of flour mixed with a quarter of a pound of 
butter, six yolks of eggs, and a glassful of milk. Mix into 
a stiff paste. 

575. Crisp Paste for Tarts. 

To half a pound of flour well dried add half an ounce 
of loaf-sugar in fine powder ; make it into a stiff paste 
with half a cupful of boiling cream and an ounce and a 
half of butter; work it well, and then add a yolk of 
an egg. 

576. Another. 

A pint of flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, and two 
eggs, one spoonful of pounded sugar, and a spoonful of 
cream ; work it well and roll it thin. 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 211 



577. A Good Tart Crust to Cover a Disil 

Rub half a pound of butter in one pound of flour, wet it 
with as much water as will make a stiff paste, roll it out 
three times, as thin as a crown-piece. This is a good 
paste to cover all fruit tarts in dishes. 

578. Biscuit Paste. 

One pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of sugar, six 
yolks of eggs, one wineglassful of milk, worked together 
into a stifli* paste. This is good for tarts baked in pans, 
or lining moulds. For custards line small moulds, fill 
them with flour, bake them hard ; when done take the 
flour out, clean, fill with custard, and bake till set. 

579. Almond Pastry. 

Make some square thin pieces of puff-paste, pound some 
sweet and a few bitter almonds very small, mix them 
with the white of an egg and a little sugar ; spread this 
upon the pieces of pastry, and bake them in an oven till 
they are as crisp as possible. 

580. Madaleine Cakes. 

To one tablespoonful of flour add four of cream and 
three yolks of eggs, with two spoonfuls of pounded sugar; 
put it on a slow fire, and just let it come to a boil, then 
set it aside to cool. Have ready some puff- paste rolled as 
thin as a half-crown. Cut the piece in half, and on one 
spread the above preparation pretty thinly, then cover 
it with the other half. Glaze it with egg spread with 
a brush ; bake in a quick oven, and when it is done cut 



212 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

it into equal-sized pieces the shape of an ordinary 
spongecake. Sift coarsely-powdered sugar over them, 
and glaze with a salamander, so that they may look 
candied on the top. 

581. Frangipane. 

A quarter of a pint of cream, four yolks of eggs, two 
ounces of flour, two or three almond-cakes crumbled, 
four tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little grated lemon-peel, a 
small quantity of candied peel cut fine, a teaspoonful of 
brandy, and a very little nutmeg. Set it upon a gentle 
fire, give it a boil, and stir that it may not become 
lumpy. Prepare either a square, oval, or round shape 
of puff-paste, rolled to the thickness of half an inch ; put 
in the mixture, lay bars of paste across it, glaze, bake in 
a quick oven, and salamander before servmg. 

582. Another Frangipane. 

Take six bitter and a handful of sweet almonds ; pound 
them as fine as possible in a mortar, add a quarter of a 
pound of powdered sugar, a tablespoonful of flour, the 
yolks of two eggs, half a lemon-peel grated fine, one 
spoonful of orange marmalade, and a little nutmeg ; 
mix all together with half a pint of good cream. Line 
a baking-tin with a thin light paste, laying a thicker bit 
round the edge, put in the preparation, and bake in a 
moderately hot oven. About half an hour should do it. 

583. Custard Tart. 

Cover a tart-pan with puff-paste; stew some apples very 
soft, then rub them through a sieve, sweeten them to 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 213 

taste, and put them in the paste ; make a custard with 
half a pint of cream or good milk; set it on to boil 
Avith a laurel-leaf, a bit of lemon-peel, and an ounce and 
a half of loaf-sugar ; when it boils stir in the yolks of 
three eggs, stir till thick, and pour it over the apples. 
Beat the whites of ten eggs to a very stiff froth and 
spread it over the custard, sift fine sugar on to it, and 
bake in the oven for about twenty minutes. Marmalade 
or fruit tarts of any sort may be made in the same way. 

584. Orange Tart. 

Pare off the rind, quarter and remove the core of a 
dozen and a half of China oranges ; boil them in a little 
sugar and water about three minutes, and lay them on a 
sieve to drain. Take the juice that runs from them 
and the liquor they were boiled in and boil it to a syrup; 
put the oranges in for a minute or two, but without 
boiling them ; then lay them in the shape of crust, 
which must be previously baked. Just before serving 
pour the syrup over the oranges. 

585. Raspberry Tart 1 la Cr^me. 

Roll out some puff paste thin ; line a pattypan with it ; 
put in some fine ripe raspberries, and strew fine sugar 
over them ; put on a lid of paste, and bake in the oven. 
When done enough cut it open and put in half a pint of 
cream well beaten with the yolks of two eggs and a 
little sugar. 

586. Gateau de Pommes. 
One pound of fine sugar boiled to a syrup, one pound of 



214 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

apples cored and peeled, some lemon-peel, and the juice 
of one lemon, or more if necessary, to be boiled over a 
slow fire in a saucepan without a lid on it till the apples 
fall and become smooth, and of a proper consistency ; 
then put it in a mould, and serve cold with the fol- 
lowing : — 

587. Burnt Cream. 

Make a rich custard of cream and eggs, boiling lemon- 
peel in it, but no sugar. When cold, pour it over the 
gateau de pommes, sift a good deal of sugar over, and 
brown the top with a salamander. 

588. Apples a la Portugaise. 

Take eight or nine of the best and largest apples, peel 
and core them, put them in a pewter dish with a little 
water, set the dish in the oven, fill the core with sugar. 
When they are baked enough, serve with either lemon, 
orange, apricot, or pine-apple marmalade poured over 
them. 

589. Apples with Cream. 

Pare the apples and cut them in four, take out the core, 
put them to stew with a little water and sugar in a 
saucepan. When they begin to fall take them off the 
fire. In another pan put four yolks of eggs, a spoonful 
of flour, a pint of good cream, and a little sugar. Set 
the pan upon a slow fire, and keep stirring the cream 
continually, taking care it does not boil for fear of 
curdling it. When done enough, add a glass of madeira 
or sherry. Arrange the apples in the dish, and pour 
the sauce over. 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTIIY, ETC. 215 



590. PoMMES AU Eiz Meringue. 

Stew pared and cored apples in a saucepan over a slow 
fire, with a little bruised ginger, three or four cloves, a 
bit of lemon-peel, and some brown sugar. Boil a quarter 
of a pound of rice with a pint of milk or cream, an ounce 
of butter, two ounces of sugar, and half a lemon-peel 
grated ; make it stiff enough to put round a dish. Put 
the apples in the centre, pour a custard over. Beat the 
wliites of eight eggs to a stiff froth, which will take half 
an hour; place this over all, sprinkle with sugar, and 
bake in the oven a nice light brown. 

591. Apples with Jelly. 

Take the largest apples you can get, peel and cut them 
in half, remove the core, and hollow them out a little, 
put them in a broad saucepan nearly full of water, turn 
them occasionally in the water, and when they are 
pretty soft take them out, drain and place them on the 
dish with the hollow side uppermost. When they are 
cold fill them with the following apple-jelly : — Take 
twenty golden pippins, pare and quarter them, leaving 
in the cores ; put them in a pipkin with a pint of spring 
water, and boil them till they are tender and sink to 
the bottom, then rub them through a colander. To 
every pint of the juice put half a pound of fine sifted 
sugar, and set it on to boil as fast as possible. Wlien it 
begins to jelly, put in the juice of two lemons and a 
little cinnamon. The rind of a pine-apple boiled with 
the jelly is a great improvement. 



216 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTEY, ETC. 

592. Fastnachts Krapeen. 

This is a German cake "which is eaten on Shrove Tues- 
day, as pancakes are in EngLand ; it is very good, and is 
made in the follo^ying manner : — Take a pint of hike- 
warm milk, six ounces of butter, two ounces of sugar, 
six yolks of eggs, and two ounces of yeast. Mix all 
this well together with as much flour as will make a 
paste, just stiff enough to roll out ; then with a round 
cutter cut out cakes about the diameter of an orange, 
and an inch and a half thick ; put them on a board in 
a warm place to rise, and then fry them in hot lard from 
five to ten minutes, so that they may acquire a nice 
brown colour ; drain them on blotting-paper to free them 
from fat, sprinkle them with sugar, and serve very hot. 
It is usual before they rise to 0]3en them and introduce 
a spoonful of jelly or marmalade, and to glaze the outside 
with egQ. 

593. Almond Paste. 

Blanch and pound one pound of Jordan almonds very 
fine, adding a spoonful of orange-flower water while 
pounding, to keep them from oiling ; add three-quarters 
of a pound of fine sifted sugar ; stir it together over a 
gentle fire to dry off the moisture ; when it becomes a 
stiff paste take it out of the pan and put it into pots to 
keep. It is useful for many things, iceing of cakes, etc. 

594. Almond Cups. 

Roll out some of the above paste, and form cups of it in 
moulds ; bake them in a slow oven, and fill with wliipt 
cream, custard, or preserves. 



rLT)DINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 217 



595. Charlotte de Pommes aux Abricots. 

Take a dozen rennet apples, or more if your mould is a 
very large one ; cut them in quarters, peel and put them 
into a pan with a lump of butter, a small piece of cinna- 
mon, the peel of half a lemon, and a little pounded 
sugar. Stew all this together over a very brisk fire, but 
do not allow them to burn ; when the apples are nearly 
done, take them ofi" the fire, mix them with half a pot of 
apricot marmalade, and then put them into the mould, 
which you will previously have arranged, with thin slices 
of bread dipped in melted butter; cover apples with 
similar slices of bread, and bake the charlotte in a moder- 
ate oven of a fine rich brown ; serve very hot and crisp. 
The mould should be rubbed all over with clarified but- 
ter, and the slices of bread-crumb may be cut in any 
shape you please, but the neatest way is with a plain 
round cutter ; dip each piece in melted butter, and lay 
them in the mould with the edge of one just resting on 
the other piece like fishes' scales. Take care that the 
bread is not cut too thick, and bake it very crisp. 

596. Calf's-Foot Jelly. 

Put six calves' feet into six quarts of water, set them on 
the fire, and boil eight hours, when it should be reduced 
to four quarts ; strain and carefully remove all the fat ; 
whisk up twelve whites of eggs with a pound and a half 
of coarsely-pounded sugar, the juice of ten lemons and 
the peel of two, and a small stick of cinnamon ; add the 
stock from the calves' feet to this while warm, boil it up 
for a quarter of an hour, then put it in half a pint of 



218 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

white wine ; boil it up once more, and let it stand for 
ten minutes covered up in the pan, then strain through 
a jelly-bag two or three times till it runs quite clear, and 
put it into a mould, which place on the ice or in a cool 
place to set. A very good nourishing jelly may be made 
of neats' feet, omitting the wine and using only four 
lemons. 

597. Sponge Jelly or Jelly 1 la Russe. 

Take a pint of calves'-feet jelly ; just melt it ; whisk it 
over some ice till it looks like thick cream ; fill a mould 
with this, and when cold turn it out. 

598. Punch Jelly. 

Add half a teacupful of brandy, and the same of rum, to 
a pint and a half of calves'-feet jelly ; put it in moulds, 
and ice. 

599. Clarified Isinglass. 

Break the isinglass in pieces with a hammer, wash it in 
several waters, and to four ounces add six pints of water, 
which reduce by boiling to one-third, skimming it mean- 
while carefully ; strain through a silk sieve, and it is 
ready to use for jellies or creams. 

600. Jelly of Orange Flowers and Chalipagne. 

Take a handful of orange-flowers, put the leaves of them 
in fresh water in a pan, set them on the fire, and give 
them one boil ; drain and throw them into clarified 
syrup ; boil them again in this a minute or two, take 
them ofi", and when nearly cold add five or six glasses 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTEY, ETC. 219 

of champagne, a little melted isinglass, and the juice of 
two lemons. Mix well together, and pass it through a 
double tammy ; shake it well, and pour it into china 
cups ; set them in three pounds of ice which you have 
previously beaten fine and placed in a convenient vessel 
that will hold eight or nine cups ; cover them with a 
sheet of paper, and leave them to get firm. When 
ready, wipe the cups and dish them. The jelly should 
not be too stiff", but delicate and shaking. If, however, 
it is wished to set it in a mould, more isinglass must be 
added or it will fall. Other flowers may be used in the 
same way, and maraschino noyeau, etc., substituted for 
champagne, 

601. Pine- Apple Jelly. 

Cut the best part of a pine-apple either in slices or 
rounds, rather thicker but of the size of a crown-piece ; 
boil these and the rind in clarified sugar, with the juice 
of two lemons, then add some ready prepared isinglass ; 
strain the whole through a jelly-bag, and pour the 
jelly into the mould to the depth of a quarter of an 
inch, then set the mould on the ice to freeze. When 
the jelly is firm lay slices of the best part of the pine- 
apple, in any design you please (taking care that they 
are dry), on the jelly, sticking them together with a 
little more jelly, which you must allow to set on the 
ice before filling the mould. As soon as this is firm fill 
it up, and surround the mould with ice. 

602. Cherry-Jelly in Moulds. 

Boil Morello cherries till they come to a pulp, which 
will be in about twenty minutes ; strain them through a 



220 rUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

jelly-bag ; bottle and cork it till wanted for use, tlien 
heat as much as you require, sweeten to taste, and add 
an ounce and a half of melted isinglass. Strain through 
a jelly-bag into a mould, and set it in a cool place or on 
the ice till wanted to serve. 



603. Oeange- Jelly. 

Take twelve oranges ; cut each in two ; squeeze them 
through a silk sieve into a dish ; rub the peel of three 
of the oranges off on a lump of sugar, and scrape off all 
the yellov/ part, which gives the jelly a fine flavour ; 
break half a pound of sugar into small pieces ; put it in 
a pan ; beat the white of half an egg up with water till 
it gets white, and add it to the sugar ; let it reduce till 
it begins to bubble, then pour in the juice of the oranges. 
The heat of the sugar will clarify the jelly. Do not let 
it boil, but as soon as you perceive a yellow scum, skim 
the jelly, and pour it through a jelly-bag. Boil an 
ounce of isinglass in three-quarters of a pint of water 
for two hours, and when the jelly is nearly cold mix it 
with it. When the jelly is cold, hut not before, pour it 
into a mould to set. Lemon-jelly is made in the same 
way, but requires rather more sugar. 

604. Orange Sponge Jelly. 

Dissolve two ounces of isinglass in one pint of water, 
and strain it through a sieve ; add the juice of two 
China oranges, four Seville oranges, and one lemon, with 
about half a pound of fine sugar ; whisk it till it looks 
like a sponge, put it into a mould, and when set turn it 
out. 



puddings, jellies, pastry, etc. 221 

605. Apple- Jelly. 

Keduce two pounds of juicy apples boiled with a 
teacupful of water, rub them through a sieve, add half a 
pound of sugar, the juice of two and the peel of one 
lemon. Have ready half an ounce of isinglass boiled 
in half a pint of water to a jelly, add it to the apples, 
and boil all together ; strain it, take out the lemon-peel, 
and pour it into your mould ; set it in a cool place. 
If half an ounce of isinglass is not enough to stiffen it, 
more may be added ; but as little as possible should 
always be used. Pine-apple is an excellent addition. 

60G. Eed Strawbepjiy- Jelly. 

To a pint and a half of calves'-foot jelly add, when 
melted, two spoonfuls of cochineal ; arrange whole 
strawberries in the mould; pour in the jelly; when cold 
and set turn it out. Other fruit may be done in the 
same way. 

607. Easpberry- Jelly. 

Put the fruit into a mortar, with a sufficiency of sugar 
to sweeten it ; mix together, and add a little water. 
When all the juice is extracted pass it through a jelly- 
bag, add isinglass to stiffen it (the quantity depends 
upon how much fruit you have), then put it into a 
mould, with ice over and under. No salt must be 
mixed with the ice. When set, turn it out. Do not 
bruise the fruit too much, or the small seeds will spoil 
the flavour. Strawberry and currant may be done the 
same. 



222 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTKY, ETC. 

608. Jelly and Miroton of Peaches. 

Cut a dozen peaches into halves, peel them gently, and 
boil them a short time in a tliin syrup. If the peaches 
are very fine you may leave them almost raw. Break 
the stones, peel the kernels, and throw them into the 
hot syrup with the fruit ; leave the peaches to soak 
in the syrup about an hour, and then use them as fol- 
lows : — Drain the peaches on a sieve, squeeze into the 
syrup the juice of six lemons ; pass this through a jelly- 
bag ; when very clear put some clarified isinglass into 
it. Choose a plain mould, and pour some into it, and 
set it on the ice ; when quite firm drop the peaches on 
to the jelly, and lay the kernels between ; pour some 
more jelly over, and let it freeze ; then fill the mould 
gently, and again put it on the ice. A great quantity 
of ice, with some salt, should be round the mould, as 
this jelly is very delicate and extremely liable to break. 

609. CrIiime au Gelee. 

Take half a pint of jelly and half a pint of cream ; the 
jelly must be warm ; whip them well together, till it is 
about milk-warm ; put it into a mould, and set it in a 
cool place. If ice is to be had, it should be placed on 
it, and also whipt in ice. It may be flavoured with 
maraschino, noyeau, or any other flavour preferred. 

610. Flemish Cream. 

Three-quarters of a pint of thin cream, the yolks of six 
eggs, a small quantity of lemon-peel, a teaspoonful of 
arrowroot, one laurel-leaf, and as much loaf-sugar as will 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTEY, ETC. 223 

sweeten it to taste ; set it over a slow fire in a saucepan, 
and keep stirring till it boils ; strain through a sieve, 
and stir again till it is cold to prevent its getting 
lumpy ; add to it a glass of madeira, then beat the 
whites of the six eggs very light, and stir them in. Put it 
in a mould, and set it in a cool place or on the ice till it 
is served. 

611. Dutch Cream. 

Break ten yolks of eggs into a stew-pan, with four 
glasses of white wine, a little cinnamon and lemon-peel ; 
stir it over a slow fire till it becomes thick ; have ready 
melted half an ounce of isinglass and a pint of cream, 
well whipt. Mix the isinglass and eggs together, and stir 
them round till quite cold ; then add the cream, and put 
the whole in a mould to set on the ice or in a cool place. 

012. iTALLiN Cream. 

Take a pint of thick fresh cream ; whip it well ; add 
half a handful of fine sugar, the juice of half a lemon, 
and three tablespoonfuls of madeira ; dissolve half an 
ounce of isinglass in a little water, and strain it into the 
cream, then put it in your mould. A little less isinglass 
in mnter will be sufficient. 



613. Plojubiere. 

Take one pound of sweet almonds and four ounces of 
bitter ; pound them fine together, and put them into a 
stew-pan with one pound of fine lump sugar, a quart of 
single cream, and twelve yolks of eggs ; turn on the fire 



224 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTE Y, ETC. 

till thick, pass through a tammy, and when cold freeze 
like any other ice. Twenty minutes before serving work 
into it half a pot of apricot jam, and as you serve lay 
the rest of the jam on the top, or put it in the centre. 
It should be dished rough, not put in a mould. 

614. Queen Mab's Pudding (Cold). 

Take one pint of cream, one ounce of isinglass, one ounce 
of mixed citron and lemon-peel, two ounces of preserved 
cherries, and sugar to taste ; add half a wineglassful of 
brandy ; mix well, pour it into a mould, and ice. 

615. Lemon-Cheese. 

Take a quart of cream just on the turn, rasp the rinds 
of two lem-ons, and squeeze their juice into the cream ; 
whip with a whisk always the same way for about 
twenty minutes ; take a sieve, on which lay a piece of 
fine muslin large enough to contain the whipped cream ; 
pour the cream on to it, place the sieve on a hollow dish 
that the whey may run off, and let it stand twenty-four 
hours. You can sweeten it to taste while whipping. 

616. Preserved Pine- Apple Creajnl 

Take a teacupful of syrup of preserved pine-apple, and the 
juice of two lemons, two ounces of sugar, and four slices of 
pine-apple cut in small dice ; mix with this an ounce of 
isinglass boiled for half an hour in half a pint of water ; 
whisk all together till nearly cold, then add a quart of well- 
whisked cream ; mix well, and put it into your mould, 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTKY, ETC. 225 

which set on the ice or in a cool place. Ginger cream 
of preserved ginger may be made in the same way. 

617. Orange-Creaji. 

Boil the rind of a Seville orange very tender ; beat it fine 
in a mortar ; add to it a spoonful of the best brandy, the 
juice of a Seville orange, four ounces of loaf-sugar, and 
the yolks of four eggs ; beat all together for ten minutes ; 
then by degrees pour in a pint of boiling cream; beat it 
till it is cold ; put it into custard cups or glasses ; set 
them in a deep dish or pan of boiling water to stand till 
cold. If preferred in a mould, half an ounce of isinglass 
dissolved in a very little water must be added with the 
cream. This is excellent ! 

618. Coffee- Cream. 

Boil a calf's foot in a quart of water till it reduces to a 
pint of jelly, clear of sediment and fat ; make a tea- 
cupful of very strong cofi'ee, clear it with a bit of isinglass 
that it may be perfectly bright ; pour it on the jelly, and 
add a pint of very good cream ; sweeten to taste ; give it 
one boil up, and pour it into your mould. 

619. Strawberry, Easpberry, or Currant CREA:\r. 

If the fruit is fresh pulled, take equal weights of fruit 
and sugar ; then clarify the sugar and put in the fruit ; let 
them boil till the sugar has quite penetrated the fruit ; 
when cold, take two or three spoonfuls of it and whisk 
it up with a pint of cream ; then take some of the whole 

Q 



226 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

fruit picked, and mix a few spoonfuls with the whisked 
cream ; stiffen with a little isinglass, and put it in a mould. 

620. Sack-Cream. 

Boil a pint of cream, the yolk of an egg well beaten, 
three spoonfuls of white wine, a little lemon-peel and 
sugar, over a gentle fire ; stir it till it has the consistency 
of tliick cream ; then take it off, and continue stirring till 
cold. Serve in cups or glasses. 

621. Cr^me au The Vert. 

Boil a pint of cream and the same of milk, into which 
throw a pinch of salt and some sugar ; when the cream 
boils, throw three spoonfuls of the best green tea into it ; 
give it a boil ; add the yolks of ten very fresh eggs ; keep 
constantly stuTing it on the fire till the cream becomes 
thick, but mind that the eggs are not over-done ; then 
add some melted isinglass ; pass it through a tammy, 
and put it in the mould, which set in ice. When you 
wish to make the cream more delicate, let it get cold, 
and before you put the isinglass in, set it in a vessel 
over ice, and whip it when quite frozen ; add some cold 
melted isinglass. This method requires less isinglass, and 
the cream is lighter. 

622. Orange-Flower Cream. 

Boil half a pint of cream mth a handful of fresh orange- 
flowers, and let the cream cool ; strain and mix with a 
pint of thick cream ; keep whipping it over ice till it is 
quite thick ; add half an ounce of melted isinglass ; put 
it into a mould and surround it with ice. 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTEY, ETC. 



623. MiLLE Fruit Cream. 

Take a spoonful each of preserved strawberries, rasp- 
berries, apricots, currants, greengages, ginger, pine-apple, 
gooseberries, plums, and orange-peel cut small ; add an 
ounce of isinglass boiled in half a pint of water for half 
an hour, and three ounces of sugar ; whisk till nearly- 
cold, then add a quart of cream whisked to a froth. 
Mix well and put in a mould, which surround with ice. 

624. Cae amel-Creajm. 

Take a quarter of a pound of lump- sugar ; put it in a 
sugar-pan with three tablespoonfuls of water ; set it on a 
stove fire till it becomes burnt brown and tastes rather 
bitter ; have ready a quarter of a pint of boiling cream, 
which pour into the sugar ; strain it through a fine sieve 
into a basin, and let it cool a little ; take six yolks of 
eggs and mix mth the cream ; put it in a stew-pan over 
the fire, and whisk it till it becomes thick, but be sure 
it does not boil, otherwise it will curdle and spoil. Now 
put it back into the basin, and add warm as much melted 
isinglass as will make it stiff enough for a mould (about 
half an ounce). Stir it with a wooden spoon, or whisk 
till nearly cold ; have ready a pint of whipt cream to 
mix with it j sweeten to taste ; and immediately put it 
into the mould. 

625. Clouted Cre/jvi to eat with Tarts. 

Take four pints of new milk ; set it on a clear fire, and 
stir it now and then ; whenever it begins to boil take it 



228 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTE Y, ETC. 

off, and put it into broad flat dishes to cool ; stir it about 
in the dishes for some time after it is turned out of the 
pan ; set it in a cool place and let it stand twenty-four 
hours. It is excellent to eat with all sorts of fruit tarts, 
and may be served with cream poured over it. 



626. Velvet-Cream. 

Take a little syrup, lemon, orange, or pine-apple ; put 
two or three spoonfuls of it in the bottom of a dish ; 
heat some new milk lukewarm ; pour it on the syrup ; 
put in as much rennet as will set it, and cover it over 
till ready. 

627. To Freeze Ices. 

Make them according to the following receipts ; put 
them in the freezing-pots, cover them with the lid, and 
prepare the natural ice in the following manner : — Pound 
it small, and with about eight pounds of ice mix one 
pound of salt ; bury the freezing-pots in this ; then take 
the lids off them, and work the fruit or other ice in them 
with a wooden spattle, scraping it from the sides and 
mixing well till it is sufficiently frozen to hold together. 
If the ice is to be made in a shape, fill the mould quite 
full, shaking it so as to avoid air-holes ; put it in the ice 
in the same manner, and let it stand half an hour. To 
turn it out, dip it in cold water, take off the ends of the 
mould, then dip it again, and gently touch it with a 
spoon, when it will come out. If it is to be served in 
china ice-pails, take it out with a spoon, arrange it in the 
pail, and put ice underneath. 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 229 

628. To Clarify Sugar for Ice. 

To three pounds of sugar add half a teaspoonful of the 
white of egg whisked together with a quart of water ; 
when melted, let it boil, and skim it carefully. "WTien 
no more scum rises, it is fit for use. 

629. Strawberry Water-Ice from Fresh Fruit. 

Pick the strawberries from their stalks and rub them 
through a sieve ; then take fine pounded sugar and mix 
with the pulp till it is smooth and the thickness of cream ; 
add a little lemon-juice to freshen it and give it more 
the flavour of fresh -picked strawberries. 

630. Peach Water-Ice. 

Take fresh peaches and rub them through a hair-sieve ; 
to whatever quantity of pulp you have add the same 
of clarified sugar, half as much water, and lemon-juice 
sufficient to make it as near the original flavour of the 
fruit as possible. 

631. Cherry Water-Ice. 

Take good fresh Duke cherries, and pick them from 
their stalks ; then pound them in a mortar and break the 
kernels ; lay them on a sieve, drain the juice from the 
pulp ; then add to the quantity of juice you have half as 
much water, pouring it over the pulp in the sieve to get 
out what juice may remain, and the same quantity of clari- 
fied sugar ; pass the juice through the sieve again, and 
add a small quantity of lemon-juice. 



230 rUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 



632. Orange Water-Ioe. 

Choose three rough rind oranges, and rub them on a 
piece of sugar till all the zest is off ; then scrape all the 
sugar where they have been rubbed off, and squeeze the 
juice of the oranges and of six lemons on to it ; add to 
the quantity of juice half as much water, and the same 
of clarified sugar. 

633. Pine-apple Water-Ice. 

Grate and pound one pound of fresh pine-apple ; add 
a pint of clarified sugar- syi^up, the juice of two lemons, 
and half a pint of water ; pass the whole through a sieve ; 
cut three slices of pine-apple in small dice, mix with the 
rest, and freeze. 

634. Noyeau Water-Ice. 

Take half a pint of lemon-juice, half a pint of sugar- 
syrup, a quarter of a pint of water ; mix together and 
freeze ; then stir in one glass of noyeau and four whites 
of eggs whisked up to a strong froth. Maraschino may 
be made in the same way. 

635. Lemon Water-Ice 

Is made the same as orange water-ice, but the zest of 
two lemons is sufiicient. 

636. Barberry Water-Ice. 
Pound ripe barberries ; beat them, and rub them through 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 231 

a sieve ; to a pint of the juice add the same quantity of 
syrup and half a pint of water ; then freeze. 



637. Frontignac Grape Water-Ice. 

Squeeze out the juice of the grapes through a sieve, and 
to four spoonfuls of grape-syrup add half a pint of lemon- 
juice, a pint of clarified sugar-syrup, and half a pint of 
water ; mix together and freeze. 



638. Punch-Ice. 

Rub the rinds of two lemons off on sugar ; take a pint of 
lemon -juice, the same of syrup, and half a pint of water; 
mix all together and freeze it hard ; then add a teacup- 
ful of brandy and one of rum ; mix well together, and 
then stir in the whites of six eggs whipped to a very 
stiff froth. 

639. Eed Currant Water-Ice. 

Squeeze the currants through a sieve ; to a pint of the 
juice add half a pint of s}T:up and a quarter of a pint of 
water. Wliite and black currants may be made the same. 

640. Plain Ice-Cream. 

Take good thick fresh cream ; sweeten it with a very 
little sugar ; then put it in the freezing-pot ; take a 
whisk and whisk it well together ; freeze it in small 
oval shapes, like an egg or a plum, and serve to eat 
with strawberries or other fruit. 



232 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 

641. Coffee-Ice. 

Two ounces of the best whole coffee, four yolks of eggs, 
a quart of cream, and sugar to sweeten it to taste ; mix 
all together, and set it on to boil ; stir till nearly cold ; 
when you take it off, pass it through a sieve, and freeze. 
The coffee-berry may be either roasted or green ; if green 
the ice will look nearly white, which is usually pre- 
ferred. 

642. Green Tea Ice-Cream 

Is made as above, and with the same proportion of in- 
gredients. 

643. Brown Bread Ice-Cream. 

Cut brown bread in thin slices ; dry it crisp before the 
fire, and sift it through a sieve ; to a quart of plain ice- 
cream, made as above, add a teacupful of the bread- 
crumbs j mix well together, and freeze. 

644. Eatafia Biscuit Cream. 

Two ounces of ratafia, the yolks of two eggs, and a 
pint of cream ; boil all together, pass through a sieve, 
and freeze. 

645. Custard Ice-Cream. 

A cjuart of cream and five eggs, whisked together, with 
a little sugar ; boil it, stirring all the time, with the 
rind of two lemons cut fine ; strain it, stir till nearly 
cold, and freeze. The same mixture is very good served 
unfrozen in cups, as custard. 



PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTRY, ETC. 233 



646. Chocolate Cream-Ice. 

Shred one cake of chocolate ; dissolve it with three 
ounces of sugar, a quart of cream, and three yolks of 
eggs ; boil, and then whisk till cold, and freeze. 

647. Pine- Apple Cream-Ice. 

Grate one pound of fresh pine-apple ; add half a pint of 
syrup, a pint and a half of cream, and the juice of two 
lemons ; rub through a sieve ; cut two slices of pine- 
apple into small dice ; mix with it, and freeze. 

648. Pine- Apple Jam-Ice. 

To a pound of jam add a half a pint of good cream, and 
mix it together ; rub it through a hair sieve, and add 
as much lemon-juice to it as will make it near the 
flavour of the fresh fruit. All jam-ices, such as straw- 
berry, raspberry, and apricot, may be made in the same 
way. 

649. Orange-Flower Cream-Ice. 

Chop an ounce of fresh candied orange-flowers fine ; add 
three ounces of sugar, four yolks of eggs, one quart of 
cream, and two spoonfuls of orange-flower water ; boil ; 
take it oS", and whisk till cold, then freeze. 

650. China Orange-Cream. 

Paib the rinds of six oranges on sugar, and scrape it off ; 
add the juice of two lemons^ three ounces of sugar, and 



234 PUDDINGS, JELLIES, PASTEY, ETC. 

a pint and a half of cream ; rub all together through a 
hair sieve, and freeze. Lemon may be made in the 
same way, 

651. GriNGER Cream-Ice. 

Take four ounces of preserved ginger ; cut it in small 
pieces ; two spoonfuls of ginger syrup, four yolks of eggs, 
and a pint and a half of cream ; let it boil, then whisk 
together till cold, then freeze. 



BAKING. 

BEEAD, BISCUITS, CAKES, etc. 

652. Yorkshire Method of Making Yeast. 

One ounce of hops boiled in a gallon of water for twenty 
minutes; let it stand till lukewarm; mix gradually 
with this half a pound of flour, and cork it up for three 
days. Before using bruise a few potatoes very fine, stir 
them into the yeast, and set it before the fire to work 
for a few hours before it is to be used. A pint is suffi- 
cient for a stone of flour. When once this yeast is made, 
some of the old should always be kept to mix with the 
new, when it need only be corked up for thirty-six 
hours. 

653. Other Methods. 

Boil one pound of good flour, half a pound of b^o^^^l 
sugar, and a little salt, in two gallons of water, for an 
hour ; let it cool till it is lukewarm, then bottle, and 
cork it close. It will be fit for use in twenty-four hours. 
One pint is sufficient to make eighteen pounds of bread. 

654. An Excellent Yeast. 

Boil five English pints of soft water ; take a large break- 
fast-cupful of ground malt, mix it in a basin with a little 
of the boiling water, let it stand for a quarter of an hour, 



236 BAKING. 

then put it into the pan with the rest of the water and 
two ounces of hops ; let it boil twenty minutes, strain it 
into a large jar, and add to it by degrees, that it may 
be well mixed, a pint of flour. Let it stand till it is 
about milk- warm, and then pour into it a bottle of yeast. 
Let it stand ten hours in a warm place, when it may be 
bottled and is fit for use. This yeast must not be kept 
in too cold a place. In making bread you must use at 
least two-thirds more than of common yeast. There 
cannot be a better method. 

G55. To Clarify Yeast. 

Take a quart of yeast ; put it in two gallons of cold 
water ; let it remain one night. By the next morning 
the yeast will have fallen to the bottom. Drain off the 
water, and any yeast that may be floating on the top. 
Your yeast will now be white and sweet. When it is 
to be used, mix about half a handful of bran with it, and 
then strain from the bran through a sieve into the flour 
you are going to make your bread of. This makes it 
perfectly sweet. 

656. To MAKE Fine Bread or Rolls. 

To three pounds of flour add one pint of warm milk and 
a quarter of a pint of clarified yeast ; stir it thinly into 
part of the flour, and leave it all night. Next morning 
warm another pint of milk ; add it to the flour and yeast, 
stir it round a few times, and then work in lightly the 
rest of the flour ; let it remain half an hour, then make 
up your rolls. Let them rise till they are quite light, 
and bake in a hot oven. This paste for loaf-bread should 
be made somewhat stiff'er than for rolls. 



BAKING. 237 



657. Excellent Bread. 

Fourteen pounds of flour, four eggs, a pint of yeast, and 
enough lukewarm milk to make it into a dough the 
thickness of hasty pudding ; leave it two hours to rise ; 
sift over it some fine salt ; work enough flour into it to 
make the dough of a proper consistence ; make into 
loaves, and bake in a quick oven. 

658. A Plain Loaf of Bread. 

Half a peck of the best seconds flour, one teaspoonful of 
salt, three tablespoonfuls of yeast, and a pint and a half 
of water, allowed to rise, and baked, makes one good large 
loaf of bread. 

659. To MAKE Brown Bread. 

Take thirty pounds of flour and forty pounds of bran, or 
seventy pounds of flour only once bolted or sifted, so that 
merely the coarser bran is removed. Into forty-two 
pounds of this mix a quart of good thick yeast previously 
strained through a hair sieve (if thin it will require more) ; 
then stir in with a spoon a sufficient quantity of luke- 
warm water to make a proper dough, not too stiff. It 
makes two loaves more, and still better bread, if you use 
bran-water instead of plain water. It is made by boil- 
ing five pounds of coarse bran in rather more than four 
gallons of water, so that when boiled perfectly smooth 
you have three gallons and three quarts clear bran-water. 
Leave the dough to stand two hours ; if it does not rise 
sufficiently, add two teaspoonfuls of coarse brown sugar. 
When it has risen, add a pint of salt dissolved in plain 




^38 BAKING. 

or bran water, according as you have made your bread 
(this and the bran water must both be strained), and the 
rest of the flour. Work it well for an hour — ^the coarser 
the flour the more working it requires ; cover it up, and 
leave it to stand at least two hours more. Next lay it 
on a table (it is better if near the fire), and alternately 
work it with your hands and roll it out with a rolling- 
pin for a little while ; then shape it into two round pieces 
for loaves of this shape. Wet the sides 
that are to be joined with a little water, 
and make a hollow with the hand in the 
upper part. See that the oven is properly 
cleaned and heated, and put the bread in, where it 
should remain about two hours. Keep the oven closed 
otherwise the bread will crack. 

660. Very Good Bread. 

Take a peck of the best flour, two quarts of milk and 
water, mixed half-and-half, together with a teacupful of 
yeast and a little salt ; make a hole in the flour ; pour it 
in, and stir all well up with a wooden spoon ; set it in a 
warm place, and let it stand till you think it has sufii- 
ciently risen, which is usually in from two to three hours ; 
then work it up lightly, and let it stand two minutes 
before you put it in the oven ; bake according to your 
judgment, but it generally takes an hour and a half. 

661. Aerated Bread. 

One pound of flour, ninety drops of muriatic acid, 
seventy-five grains of carbonate of soda, seventy grains 
of salt, and half a tumbler of water ; mix the salt and 



BAKING. 239 

soda together ; stir tlie flour, in small quantities at a 
time, slowly and thoroughly into the salt and soda ; then 
add the water and acid, kneading as quickly as possible 
together (half a minute should do it) ; then put it at once 
into the oven. 

662. French Eolls. 

Take a quarter of a peck of flour, a teacupful of yeast, as 
much warm milk, with an ounce of butter in it, as will 
mix them not very stifi* ; add one egg. Cover the dough 
mth a clean flannel, and let it stand to rise ; when risen, 
if for making smooth French rolls, add an ounce more 
butter ; if for rasped ones, use as it is ; bake them on a 
tin in a quick oven, leaving the door open till they are 
brown on one side, then turn them, and close the oven- 
door (a quarter of an hour will do them). They should 
be rasped immediately, or they will turn soft. The same 
dough is good for other rolls, and if a little sugar is 
added, and currants or carroway seeds, makes excellent 
buns. 

663. Sally Lunns. 

Two pounds of flour, two ounces of butter, and one ounce 
of sugar ; rub them well together ; take four tablespoon- 
fuls of yeast, mixed with a little warm water ; set the 
yeast to rise, and when it rises a little, beat up with it a 
gill of cream and some milk (or all milk, if new, will do), 
and the yolks of four eggs. "Warm this a little ; add to it 
the dough, and work it all together ; the dough must 
nob be quite so stiff" as bread dough. Mould it w^ith 
your hands in small round cakes ; lay them on an iron 
baking-plate to rise, in a warm place j bake them in not 



240 BAKING. 

too hot an oven. They will take about an hour, and are 
eaten cut open and buttered. After they are buttered 
they should be closed and returned to the oven for a 
minute or two. 

6Q4:. Bath Cakes. 

Rub half a pound of butter into a pound of flour ; add a 
spoonful of good yeast ; and with some warm cream work 
all into a light paste ; set it by the fire to rise. When you 
make them up, work in four ounces of carraway seeds, 
keeping some to strew on the tops. Make them in round 
cakes the size of a bun. Bake them on tins, and serve 
hot. 

665. Cheltenham Cakes. 

Six pounds of flour, a quarter of a pound of butter, the 
yolks of two eggs, and a teacupful of yeast ; mix all 
together with some warm milk ; set it to rise for an 
hour ; make into round cakes ; let them rise again ; and 
bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes or a quarter of 
an hour. 

6CjQ. Breakfast Cakes. 

A pint of flour, two eggs, one spoonful of yeast, and as 
much cream as will mix it up light ; make it up into 
cakes ; let them rise an hour, and bake in a moderate 
oven. 

667. Whigs. 

Eub a quarter of a pound of butter into a pound and a 
half of flour, very fine ; beat three eggs together with two 
spoonfuls of yeast ; add a pint of milk ; mix well, and 
strain througli a sieve on to the flour ; beat all together 



BAKING. 241 

till quite smootli ; cover it over, and let it stand three 
hours at a little distance from the fire ; then stir in 
half a pound of sugar and half a pound of currants ; cover 
it over again, and let it stand an hour ; bake them in 
tins, wliich fill half full, and stand them before the fire 
for an hour to rise. A quarter of an hour in a quick 
oven is sufiicient to bake them. 

CG8. Buns. 

Mix a quarter of a pound of butter with a pound of flour ; 
beat up the yolks and whites of two eggs in half a pint 
of new milk, and add a quarter of a pound of sugar and 
a tablespoonful of yeast ; mix this with the flour, and 
work all well together ; drop it out of a large spoon in a 
round form on tin plates, and when it has risen, bake. 
This quantity should be sufficient to make eight buns. 

669. Barn Break (Irish). 

Tlie dough of half a quartern loaf, two ounces of carra- 
way seeds, six ounces of sugar, four eggs, and a quarter 
of a pound of butter ; work it all up together with as 
much flour as will make it a fit consistency to bake ; 
this will take half an hour to do ; make it into a round 
cake or loaf, and bake. 

670. Muffins. 

Take four pounds of fine flour, two pints of warm milk, 
two eggs well beaten, a little salt, and four spoonfuls of 
new yeast ; mix all together, and beat it up Avell with 
your hand ; set it before the fire to rise ; make the 



242 BAKING. 

muffins round with the bottom of a plate well floured ; 
flour them on both sides, and bake on an iron plate in 
the oven. 

671. Another Eeceipt for Muffins. 

One pound of flour, two tablespoonfuls of yeast, mixed 
with as much warm water as together will fill a teacup ; 
set it up to rise and fall ; then beat it to a thick batter 
till it draws out as you take it up. Make the muffins 
round with a knife and spoon ; roll them well in flour ; 
let them lie a few minutes, and bake on an iron j)late. 
AVhen they are quite done they will rattle on being- 
knocked. 

672. Cribipets. 

A pound and a half of flour, three pints of milk, two 
spoonfuls of yeast, two fresh eggs ; mix the milk just 
warm with it ; beat the whole into a batter ; let it stand 
till it rises in blisters to the top, and bake on a polished 
iron baking-sheet with a rim to it. 

673. Cringles. 

Eub a quarter of a pound of butter in one pound of flour 
and two ounces of sugar ; take half the dough, and set 
it to rise, with two spoonfuls of yeast and a quarter of a 
pint of milk ; when risen add the rest of the dough to 
it, with two eggs and a quarter of a pint more milk ; 
make it up into a light dough ; roll it out the thickness 
of a finger ; twist it up in the shape of iigurcs of eight, 
rings, or fingers ; let them rise on the tins before baking ; 
when done brush tliem with sugar dissolved in milk, and 
sprinkle a few small bits of sugar on the top. 



BAKING. 243 



674. German Eolls. 



Half a peck of the finest flour, and as much new milk as 
will make it into dough ; mix it with half a pint of 
yeast and half an ounce of sugar, and set it to rise ; when 
risen add an ounce of butter melted, and two e^Q:s 
beaten up in it ; make the dough into rolls ; put them 
to rise in a warm place, and bake on buttered tins in a 
brisk oven for twenty minutes. 

675. EusKS. 

One pound of flour, one ounce of butter, one ounce of 
sugar, one Qgg, four spoonfuls of yeast, and as much 
warm milk as will make the whole into dough ; roll it 
out, and cut it into cakes the size you wish ; set them 
before the fire a quarter of an hour before you bake ; 
put them into the oven, and when they are just coloured 
take them out and split them ; return them to the oven, 
and bake till they are quite brown. 

676. French Eusks. 

Take a clean copper pan, and break into it a pound 
weight of yolks of eggs ; add a pound and a half of 
pounded sugar, and with a large wooden spoon stir them 
well together for ten minutes ; to this put two pounds 
of flour and two handfuls of carraway seeds, and mix 
well ; roll out the paste in a roll about fourteen inches 
long, and six or seven thick ; lay three sheets of paper 
on a baking-plate, put the roll of paste on it, and flat it 
down with your hand. It should be an inch thick in the 
middle, and thin at the edges. Do not bake them too 



244 BAKING. 

mucli, or tliey will not cut without breaking. Damp the 
paper to remove them from it, and with a sharp knife 
cut out the rusks about a quarter of an inch broad and 
a finger long ; lay them flat on a wire baking-plate ; put 
them again into the oven, so as to make them quite 
crisp and dry, and they are done. 

677. Brioche. 

A quarter of a pound of flour, two spoonfuls of yeast ; 
let it rise for half an hour ; then take three-quarters of 
a pound more flour, and rub into it half a pound of 
butter and a little salt; now mix eight eggs with it, 
and work it till it looks quite like cream ; add this to 
the flour and yeast ; mix them well together, and set 
it to rise gently for three or four hours ; butter the 
mould well ; put in the brioche ; let it stand in a warm 
place an hour longer ; bake in a moderate oven. An 
hour is generally sufiicient. 

678. Des Echaudies. 

To a pound of flour add six eggs well beat, half a pound 
of butter, and two spoonfuls of yeast ; mix thoroughly ; 
roll them in pieces about the size of an apple ; put them 
into boiling water for two or three minutes ; take them 
carefully out with a skimmer ; drain them, and put them 
on a tin in the oven. In three or four minutes they will 
be done enough. 



"iD' 



679. Bread Cake. 

Two pounds of the best flour, a quarter of a pound of 
moist sugar, one ounce of carraway seeds, two eggs, a 



BAKIKG. 245 

quarter of a pound of butter, a pint of milk, and two 
tablespoonfuls of yeast ; let it rise like ordinary bread, 
and bake about an liour in a moderate oven. Currants 
may be used instead of caiTaway seeds. 

680. A Diet Loaf. 

"Beat a pound of eggs with a pound of sifted sugar till it 
looks quite thick and white ; then add a little ginger 
and cinnamon, powdered, some carraway seeds, and one 
pound of dried flour ; butter a mould, and bake it. 

681. A Gingerbread Loaf. 

To a pint of treacle add six eggs well beat up, two 
I)Ounds of flour, and twelve ounces of fresh butter beat 
to a cream ; half a pound of brown sugar, half a pound 
of orange-peel cut into small pieces, two ounces of ground 
ginger, and one of ground cloves ; mix all these ingre- 
dients together, and the more it is beat up the lighter it 
will be. When ready for the oven put it into a tin 
shape, with buttered paper round the loaf; do not 
allow the oven to be too hot. It should be baked about 
an hour. To know if it is thoroughly done put a knife 
into the cake ; if it comes out clean it is done enough. 
Leave it in the mould till cold. 

682. NUREMBURG GINGERBREAD. 

Beat the whites and yolks of eight eggs, together with 
one pound of finely-sifted sugar, for half an hour ; mix 
with this the peel of a lemon cut very thin, and minced 
fine, and a tablespoonful of ground spices in the pro- 
portion of two parts of cinnamon and one part each of 



246 BAKING. 

cloves and cardamoms ; a tablespoonful of fmely-cut 
candied orange-peel, half a pound of blanched and 
roasted almonds sliced small, and one pound of fine dry 
flour ; all to be thoroughly mixed together, made into 
cakes about eight inches long by four wide and two 
thick, spread on wafer paper, and baked in a quick 
oven. 

683. Gingerbread without Butter. 

Mix with two pounds of treacle a quarter of a pound 
each of candied ginger, orange and lemon peel, all 
sliced very thin, half an ounce of carraway seeds, half 
an ounce powdered ginger, and as much flour as will 
mix it into a soft paste ; lay it on tin plates in con- 
venient-sized cakes, and bake in a quick oven. 

684. Honeycomb Gingerbread. 

Eub together half a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound 
of butter, a quarter of a pound of moist sugar, a tea- 
spoonful of ground ginger, one each of allspice and 
cinnamon in powder, the rind of one lemon grated, and 
as much treacle as will make it into a paste to spread 
very thinly on tins ; bake it gently while hot ; cut it in 
squares, and roll it over a stick like wafers till cold. 
Keep them in a dry place, or they will lose their crisp- 
ness. 

685. Gingerbread Nuts. 

One pound of butter rubbed fine in three pounds of 
flour ; add to it a pound of fine-sifted sugar, an ounce 
of carraway seeds, an ounce of ginger, and a grated nut- 
meg; mix all well together with a pound and a quarter 



BAKING. 247 

of treacle ; make it into a stiff paste, and form into nuts 
or little cakes ; bake on paper in a slack oven till quite 
crisp. The quantity of spices may be increased if liked. 
They are excellent. 

68G. Ginger Cakes. 

Half a pound of flour, three ounces of Lisbon sugar, 
three ounces of butter, half an ounce of ginger, and the 
yolks of two eggs mixed with either cream or milk ; 
then dropped on tins or paper and baked in a slack oven. 

687. EicE Cake. 

Beat twelve yolks and six whites of eggs with the 
grated peel of two lemons ; mix one pound of ground 
rice, eight ounces of flour, and one pound of fine-sifted 
sugar ; beat it up with the eggs by degrees for an hour, 
with a wooden spoon ; butter a pan well, and put it in 
at the mouth of the oven, w^iich should be a gentle one. 
An hour and a half will bake it. 

G88. Oat Cakes. 

A quarter of a pound of butter to two pounds of oat- 
meal, then add as much water as will just work them 
together, but the less the better, and hot water is best ; 
roll them out with a rolling-pin as thin as possible. One 
side should be done on the girdle and the other on the 
toaster. Oat cakes may also be made without any 
butter, mixed with hot water, and a pinch of salt added. 
As little water should always be used as possible, for it 
makes them flinty. 



248 BAKING. 

689. Barley-Meal Scones. 

Put a pan full of milk on tlie fire, and when it boils stir 
in barley- flour till it is as thick as possible ; add a little 
salt, and roll them out as thin as you can ; bake them 
on the girdle, but do not keep them too long on it as it 
makes them tough. 

690. Yorkshire Cakes. 

Tliree pounds of flour, a pint and a half of warm milk, 
four spoonfuls of yeast, and three eggs ; beat the whole 
well together, and let it rise ; then form the cakes 
round ; place them on the baking-tins and let them rise 
again before putting them in the oven, which must be 
of a moderate heat. Five ounces of butter may be 
warmed with the milk and added if preferred. 

691. Balloon Cakes. 

Mix two tablespoonfuls of yeast with four of cream ; 
add to it six of flour ; make it into a light dough ; set it 
to rise in a warm place ; roll it out very thin ; cut it 
into round cakes and bake on tins for four minutes. 

692. Savoy Biscuit or Cake. 

Half a pound of very fine dry flour, one pound of dry 
pounded sugar, fourteen very fresh eggi:> , rasp over the 
sugar the peel of two oranges or lemons ; i)ut the sugar 
again to dry ; break the eggs, separating the yolks from 
the whites. Be very careful to see the eggs are fresh, as 
one bad one would spoil all. Put the sugar with the 
yolks, and beat them together with a wooden spoon ; 



BAKING. 249 

beat the whites to a firm froth, then mix with the yolks, 
and sift the flour through a hair sieve over them. Mix 
gently with the whip. Butter a mould, and powder it 
over with sugar ; put the biscuit in the mould — a little 
at a time, to prevent its blistering at the top ; put some 
ashes on a baking-dish, and put the mould over this in 
the oven. The heat must be moderate. About an hour 
is sufficient, but be careful not to remove it till it is done. 

693. Sponge-Cake. 

To one pound of flour finely sifted take twelve good 
fresh eggs ; break the eggs into a pan, whisk them over 
a cool stove till milk-warm ; whisk for about a quarter of 
an hour, or till they are quite thick and light ; then stir 
in by degrees the flour, but not till the eggs are cold ; 
add the grate of two lemon peels ; bake in whatever 
shape or shapes you please, in a quick oven. 

694. Sugar Biscuit. 

One pound of eggs, one of sugar, and one of flour. The 
sugar must be sifted fine, and mixed carefully with the 
eggs ; then stir in the flour, previously well dried ; drop 
them in rounds on paper, bake, and glaze on the top with 
sugar. 

695. Naples Biscuits. 

One pound and a half of Lisbon sugar put into a pan 
with three-quarters of a pint of water and a small cupful 
of orange-flower water. Boil the sugar with the water 
till quite melted, then break twelve eggs, yolks and 



250 BAKING. 

whites together, and whisk them well together. Now 
pour the Lisbon syrup, boiling hot, in with the eggs, 
whisking all the time as fast as you can, and continue 
till it is cold and set. Then mix in as lightly as possible 
one pound and a half of flour ; lay two sheets of paper on 
the baking-plate ; make the edges stand up about an inch 
and a half high ; pour the batter in, sift powdered sugar 
over, and put it the oven, but do not leave it a minute 
for fear it should burn. When baked, take it out in the 
paper ; let it stand till cold ; then wet the paper till it 
comes off with ease, and cut the cake what shape and 
size you like. It may also be baked in tins. 



G96. Biscuits a la Cuilliere 

Are made of the same mixture as Savoy biscuits. Use 
a silver teaspoon to shape them ; fill the spoon, and drop 
the batter on paper, pulling it along so as to make it 
about three inches long and half an inch wide ; with 
your fingers spread it a little wider at both ends than in 
the middle; sift sugar over them, and bake in a moderate 
oven. When done cut them hot off the paper. 



697. Little Short-Cakes. 

Eub into a pound of dried flour four ounces of butter, 
four ounces of pounded sugar, one egg, and a spoonful 
or two of thin cream to make it into a paste ; roll them 
out thin, and cut "with a wine-glass into round cakes. 
Currants or carraways may be added to them. 



BAKING. 251 

G98. Luncheon Cake. 

One pound of flour, six ounces of butter, half a pound of 
sugar, half a pound of currants, one egg, a pint of milk, 
and three tablespoonfuls of baking powder. The egg 
and milk should not be added till the cake has risen and 
is ready to be put into the oven. 

G99. PiTCAITHLEY BANNOCK. 

Dry before the fire one pound of fine flour ; then melt 
half a pound of butter, and mix it well with the flour. 
Add two ounces of almonds blanched and thinly sliced, 
two of candied orange-peel cut fine, two of sugar, and 
the same of carraway comfits. Knead all well together, 
and bake an hour in a slow oven. 

700. Potato Biscuits. 

Eub potatoes through a sieve ; take half a pound of this 
and mix with a pound of flour, a pinch of salt, and as 
much butter as will enable you to roll the paste out into 
rounds the size of a saucer; knead all well together, and 
bake in a quick oven. 

701. Marathon Biscuits. 

Rub into a pound of flour three ounces of butter, a pinch 
of salt, and some sugar ; then make it into a paste with 
new Avarm milk ; add a tablespoonful of yeast ; knead "it 
quickly ; let it stand an hour ; and bake in a quick oven. 



LTQUEUES, CUPS, &a 



702. Orange Brandy. 

Take ten fine China oranges, two pounds of the finest 
white sugar, a little cinnamon, and one gallon of best 
pale brandy ; put all into a stone jar and stir gently 
every day with a large wooden spoon, so as not to bruise 
the oranges, for six weeks ; then filter through a layer 
of cotton wool covered with a piece of fine flannel, which 
must be well scalded, and bottle in pint bottles. 

703. CuRAgoA. 

Two quarts of brandy to a pound and a half of brown 
sugar-candy, and an ounce and a half of fresh Seville 
orange-peel pared as clean from any white as possible ; 
let them infuse six weeks in an earthen jar, stirring every 
two or three days till the sugar-candy is dissolved ; 
filter through blotting-paper, and bottle. 

704. Lemon Liqueur. 

Pour four bottles of the best brandy into an earthen 
jar with a cover, and add to it a pound and a half of fine 
sugar pounded, the juice of sixteen lemons, and the 
peel of the same, cut clean from the white ; pour on this 
two quarts of millv boiling hot ; stir well together, and 



LIQUEURS, CUPS, ETC. 253 

let it stand in the jar, covered, for eight days, repeatin.i;- 
the stirring every day ; filter and bottle it. 

705. Cpierry Brandy. 

Pick a stone of black cherries clean from their stalks and 
bruise them well, then strain the juice through a flannel 
bag ; pound the stones till they are all broke, and put 
them into a stone jar ; pour over them brandy enough 
to cover them, and set it in a pan of water on the fire 
till it boils, then strain it also through the bag ; pour a 
little boiling water over the pulp of the fruit ; strain it 
off, and add to it two pounds of lump-sugar ; boil and 
skim it, and when cold add it to the juice. The juice 
of two quarts of raspberries added to it is also an im- 
provement. Make it as strong with brandy as you like, 
and put the whole into a stone jar ; shake it every now 
and then for three or four days ; let it settle four 
more, when it is fit to rack and bottle, and then for 
immediate use. Another method is to stone twenty 
pounds of black cherries, bruise the stones in a mortar, 
and put them and the cherries into two gallons of the 
best brandy in an earthen jar ; let it stand forty days 
well covered, then rack it off*, and bottle. Morello 
cherries are also excellent for making cherry brandy. 

706. Currant Brandy. 

Gather black currants when the sun is hot ; jDick them 
clean from the stalks ; put them into a stone jar, and to 
every six pounds of fruit add a pound of fine sugar 
pounded and sifted ; fill the jar up with brand}' ; cork it 



254 LIQUEURS, CUPS, ETC. 

up close for three or four weeks ; shake the jar once or 
twice a-(lay, then strain and bottle it. 



707. Ratafia d'Abricots. 

Take twenty-five apricots cut into pieces ; break the 
stones j take out the kernels ; peel, and crush them in 
a mortar; put all together into a jar with half a pound 
of sugar, eight cloves, some cinnamon, and a quart of 
brandy; stop the jar very close; let it infuse three weeks ; 
shake it very often; pass through a straining-bag, and 
bottle. Peaches are very good done in the same 
manner. 

708. NOYEAU. 

Take a handful of the young sprouts of the peach-tree ; 
pour over them two quarts of brandy ; let it stand three 
days to extract the fine flavour of the leaves, then take 
them out and add to the brandy two quarts of clarified 
sugar, and a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds, 
blanched and cut small ; let it stand six weeks, then 
strain and bottle. Another method is to beat all to- 
gether in a mortar half a pound of apricot kernels with 
the skins on, two drachms of cinnamon, six cloves, two 
ounces of coriander seed, and four pounds of the finest 
sugar ; infuse all this in four quarts of the best brandy 
in an earthen jar with a narrow mouth, not too closely 
corked, for a month, often shaken, and exposed as much 
to the sun as possible ; then strain and bottle. These 
liqueurs are very useful for flavouring jellies, creams, 
etc. 



LIQUEURS, curs, ETC. 255 



709. Ratafia de Framboises. 

Take six pounds of raspberries ; pick them, and put them 
in a jar with twelve quarts of brandy, two drachms 
of cinnamon, and one of mace bruised; dissolve three 
pounds of sugar in three quarts of water ; add this 
to the rest ; mix, and leave it for fifteen days to 
infuse, shaking it from time to time; pass it through 
a bag, and bottle it. 

710. PtATxiFIA DE FlEURS D'OrANGE. 

Put twelve ounces of fresh orange-flowers into a stone 
bottle or jar with twelve quarts of the best brandy ; cork 
it well, and leave it to infuse for two days. Take three 
pounds and a half of sugar, dissolve it in two and a half 
pints of water ; drain the orange-flowers from the brandy, 
and mix the infusion with the sugar; pass it through a 
bag, filter through paper, and bottle it. 

711. Eatafia des Quatre Fruits. 

Take five pounds each of morello and duke cherries, the 
same quantity of currants and of raspberries ; all must 
be ripe, but particularly the cherries ; break them all up 
separately, and mix them in an earthen pan ; leave them 
in this, stirring them occasionally for five hours; after 
tliat press them through a fine sieve, and to every pint 
of juice allow a pint of brandy and half a pound of 
sugar ; mix well togetlier, and put it in a stone bottle ; 
let it stand for a month, stirring or shaking very often ; 



256 LIQUEUES, CUPS, ETC. 

then let it clear, and draw off gently all the liquid while 
it runs clear ; pass the remainder through a bag till it 
also is clear ; add it to the other, and bottle. 

712. Cider Cup. 

Cut the peel of a lemon very thin ; put it into a cupful 
of boiling water ; add a few lumps of sugar, a pint of 
sherry, madeira, or malaga, and two bottles of cider, a 
sprig or two of borage, and some cucumber ; to be well 
iced. 

713. Cider Cup. 

A bottle of cider, two glasses of brandy, half a pint of 
water ; add to it some sprigs of borage, balm, a small bit 
of verbena, some slices of cucumber, and sugar to taste ; 
then ice. Some add a quarter of a pint of green tea. 

714. Beer Cup. 

A quart of beer or ale, a glass of brandy, a spoonful of 
brown sugar, some borage and burnet, the peel of a 
lemon, a little nutmeg, and a few slices of apple. 

715. Claret Cup. 

One bottle claret, one pint of spring water, two glasses 
of sherry, a few sprigs of balm, burnet, borage, and one 
of verbena, the peel of a lemon, and a little sugar ; let 
the whole stand in a jug two hours ; strain off clear, and 
ice it for four hours. A cucumber sliced is also a very 
good addition. 



LIQUEUllS, curs, ETC. 257 

716. Claret Cup. 

One bottle of light claret, one glass of brandy, one lemon 
peeled thin, half a pint of water, a little sugar, a sprig 
or two of borage, and some slices of cucumber ; to be 
well iced. Another cup, which is very light and good, 
is, one bottle of claret, one of soda-water, a little sugar, 
and a slice or two of cucumber with the peel left on. 

717. NUREMBURG PUNCH. 

Strain through a fine sieve, upon three-quarters of a 
pound of loaf-sugar, the juice of two good-sized oranges ; 
add a little of the rind, cut very thin ; pour upon this 
a quart of boiling water, the third part of a quart of 
good old Bataviau arrack, and a bottle of hot but not 
boiling red or white French mne — the former is perhaps 
the best. Stir all well together, and taste the result. 

718. Cold Punch. 

Rum and brandy, of each three-quarters of a pint, the 
peel of six lemons steeped four hours, the juice of one 
with sherry enough to make it up to a pint ; pour all 
this on one pound of white sugar; add three pints of 
cold water and one pint of boiling milk ; — the whole to 
be well mixed, strained through a jelly-bag, bottled, and 
iced. It keeps well, and is rather the better for it, but 
laay be used the same day. 

719. Punch k la Eomaine. 

Five pounds of the best lump-sugar, two pints of the 
clearest spring water, the juice of eight oranges and five 



25 S LIQUEURS, CUPS, ETC. 

lemons ; put all together into a stew-pan, and simmer 
till well clarified ; when cold put in an ice-pail, and 
when well frozen add the whites of six new-laid eggs 
whisked to a froth ; beat the whole together, and just 
before it is served add four tablespoonfuls of the best 
Jamaica rum. This will make a sufficient quantity for 
ten persons. The juice of the oranges and lemons 
should be strained through a fine sieve, and it is an 
improvement if the eggs are added before it is iced. 

720. EuM Punch. 

One lemon, one glass of rum, thirteen glasses of water, 
either hot or cold, and sugar to taste ; squeeze the 
lemon and pare it thin, mix well with the sugar and 
water, and then add the rum. 

721. Glasgow Punch. 

One bottle of old rum, five bottles of water, two large 
lemons, half a pound of sugar ; a little of the lemon-peel 
to be pared thin and put into the rum, the water to be 
well boiled, and the punch made hot. 

722. Punch as iviade at the Black Tavern, 
Bristol. 

One small ladleful of lemon-juice, to which,- if to be had, 
add the juice of one lime, two small ladlefuls of old rum, 
and to this, if for cold punch, add a quart of fresh cold 
spring water; if for hot punch, the same quantity of 
boiling water. Add to each bowl half a lime or a little 
lemon-peel. 



LIQUEUIiS, CUPS, ETC. 259 

723. Prince Eegent's Punch. 

Take half a pint of boiling water, to whicli add the peel 
of half a lemon cut very thin, and about two ounces of 
double-refined sugar ; let this stand a few minutes, then 
put in a bottle of dry champagne and a gill of the best 
arrack ; mix the whole well together, and ice for an 
hour before it is required. It should not be taken out 
of the ice for more than five minutes before it is used, 
and then should be kept in a cool place. 

724. Brandy Punch. 

Half a pint of water, the peel of two lemons cut very 
thin, three-quarters of a pound of fine lump-sugar, a 
little cinnamon, nutmeg, and mace, two or three cloves ; 
let them simmer till the water tastes strong enough of 
the spices ; strain, and add a bottle of the best brandy 
and the juice of two lemons ; make it very hot ; pour it 
into a bowl, and set fire to it ; let it burn five minutes, 
and serve. 

725. Sabengou. 

The yolks of five eggs, five ounces of sugar, a brealdfast- 
cupful of sherry, half a wine-glassful of brandy ; beat 
the eggs and sugar well together before adding the 
brandy and sherry ; then put the whole into a pan and 
whisk it well over the fire till it boils ; take it off the 
fire at once, and drink it hot. 

72G. Mulled Wine. 
Boil any spices you like in water until the flavour is 



260 LIQUEURS, CUPS, ETC. 

extracted ; add an equal quantity of port wine with 
sugar, lemou-peel, and nutmeg to taste. 

727. Ginger Wine. 

To ten gallons of water add thirty pounds of loaf-sugar ; 
boil and skim it for half an hour ; when cold add a 
little yeast, and put it into a cask, adding for every 
gallon four ounces of bruised ginger, the juice and rind 
of two lemons, and twelve pounds of raisins chopped 
very small ; stir all this well together for three or four 
days ; when it has done working add ten quarts of good 
brandy ; stop the cask up close ; let it stand three 
months, when it will be ready for bottling. ' 

728. Another. 

To ten gallons of water put three-quarters of a pound of 
the best ginger, two dozen lemons, nine pounds of sugar, 
and two gallons of the best brandy. The peel of only 
one dozen of the lemons is to be used. Put all this in a 
cask j shake or stir it frequently for three days, then 
bung it up ; let it stand for six weeks, and then 
bottle it. 

729. Currant Wine. 

To every gallon of water add two quarts of currant-juice, 
and to each gallon of this liquor three pounds of sugar. 
Put it into a cask, and allow it to stand three weeks to 
ferment, then take it out and rinse the cask well with 
cold water ; add a quarter of a pound more sugar to 
every gallon of the mne, and at the same time to every 
six gallons an ounce of isinglass. Put it back in the 



LIQUEURS, CUPS, ETC. 261 

cask to work for three weeks more, then add to every 
six gallons of wine one quart of good brandy, and close 
up the cask ; it should stand at least six months before 
it is bottled. If made with white currants, it closely 
resembles champagne, and a pint more juice to the same 
quantity of wiiter should be used. The currants should 
be picked clean from the stalks, slightly bruised, so as 
not to break the seeds, and the juice strained through a 
hair sieve. This is an excellent receipt. 

730. Green Gooseberry AVine. 

Pick from the stalks and bruise the gooseberries, and to 
every pound of them add one quart of water ; let it stand 
tliree days, stirring tmce a-day; then strain it; and to 
every gallon of juice put three pounds of loaf-sugar; 
barrel it, and to every five gallons of the \dne allow a 
bottle of brandy and a piece of isinglass ; bung the cask, 
and in six months, if the sweetness is gone off, but 
longer if not, bottle it. 

731. Easpberry Vinegar. 

Mash two quarts of raspberries ; put them in a dish, and 
cover them with white wine vinegar; let them stand 
twelve hours or more, then run the juice through a jelly- 
bag ; to each pint allow two pounds of sugar, which you 
have previously pounded, melted in a little water, and 
clarified with the whites of four eggs. When it boils, 
skim it well, and add it to the juice. Let the whole 
boil half an hour, and when cold, bottle ; cork, seal it 
over, and keep in a cool dry place. 



262 LIQUEURS, curs, ETC. 

732. Receipts for Ginger Beer. 

To ten gallons of water put twelve and a half pounds 
of lump-sugar and three-quarters of a pound of ginger, 
broken in a mortar ; set this on to boil for twenty minutes 
with the whites of ten eggs, and skim it well during the 
time ; then pour it into a tub to cool, and add to it the 
thin rind of twelve lemons ; then cut all the white part off 
the twelve lemons, slice them, put them into a barrel, and 
when the beer is cold, pour it over them ; add two spoon- 
fuls of yeast ; let the barrel stand in a cool place, and 
when the beer has done working put in a little isinglass 
to clear it ; bung it up, and in a few days it is ready for 
bottling, and fit to drink in a week afterwards. 

733. Another. 

To five gallons of water add seven and a half pounds of 
lump- sugar and five ounces of ginger ; boil the whole one 
hour ; peel six lemons very thin, and squeeze the juice 
over it ; add this to the liquor when cold ; spread half 
a teaspoonful of yeast on a toast ; put it into a cask with 
the beer, and let it stand in a cool place twenty-four 
hours ; then stop the barrel close, first removing the 
toast ; in six weeks it will be ready to bottle, and in a 
fortnight after to drink. The bottles should stand on 

end. 

734. Ginger Pop. 

One pound of loaf-sugar, one ounce of cream of tartar, 
one ounce of ground ginger, one gallon of boiling water ; 
mix together ; when nearly cold add one spoonful of 
yeast ; strain and bottle it ; tie the corks down, and in 
.six hours it is fit for use. 



LIQUEURS, CUPS, ETC. 263 

73d. 'White Spruce Beer. 

To ten gallons of water put eight pounds of lump-sugar ; 
boil them together for half an hour ; skin it well all the 
time ; pare twelve lemons as thin as possible ; pour the 
boiling water on the rind ; cover it up and let it stand 
till cold ; then squeeze in the juice of the twelve lemons ; 
now mix well into it three bottles or pots of essence of 
spruce and half a pint of good yeast ; put it into a cask 
and let it work four days, taking care to fill it up as it 
works over (for which purpose you must keep a little 
back when filling the barrel) ; at the end of four days 
draw off a little ; dissolve an ounce of isinglass, and put 
it into the barrel ; stir it up well with a stick ; bung it 
close ; let it stand a few days to fine, and bottle it off". 

736. Ginger Beer made with Molasses. 

To ten quarts of water add a pint and a half of molasses 
and four ounces of ground ginger ; put the ginger in a 
pitcher and fill it with boiling water ; let it stand twenty- 
four hours ; then mix the molasses and ginger together, 
and add as much boiling water as will dissolve the 
molasses ; stir the whole well together, and put it in the 
cask ; when the cask is half full add a pint of yeast ; 
then fill it up to the top ; let it stand six days, then 
bottle it, and in eight more it will be fit to drink. 

737. Herb Ale. 

Take tliree pounds of water-cresses, twenty ounces of 
dandelion roots, twelve ounces of juniper berries, and 
twenty-four drops of vvormwood ; mince all well together 



2G4 LIQUEURS, CUPS, ETC. 

quite small, and put them hi a brown Ihien bag ; which 
place in six pints of beer-wort to steep for forty-eight 
hours ; then take a four-gallon cask of ale, draw off as 
much as will leave room for the infusion ; when quite 
fine, bottle it, and in each bottle put a piece of orange- 
peel. This is very wholesome, and very pleasant to 
drink. 

737 "^ Maitrank. 

This, which is a most popular drink all over Germany, 
should be made of a bottle of light Ehine or Moselle 
wine, into wdiich you infuse for an hour a large handful 
of " woodroffe," a sweet-smelling plant, which is common 
enough in England, growing in almost every wood — in 
German it is called " Waldmeister ;" add a couple of 
lumps of sugar, and ice it well. The woodroffe, after it 
has infused for about an hour, should be removed, and 
only a few fresh sprigs added to float about on the top 
— some should be in each glass served. It is excellent, 
and supposed to be peculiarly wholesome. Care must 
be taken to use only the leaves of the plant, which has 
a small white flower. On the Ehine it is usual to add 
some strawberry and a few black-currant leaves, and 
almost everywhere a slice of orange is served floating in 
each glass ; but it is far better with nothing but the wine, 
sugar, and woodroffe, well iced. 



PICKLING AND PEESERVING. 



738. Indian Pickle. 

One gallon of vinegar, and a quarter of a poimd of 
garlic, half a pound of salt, a quarter of a pound of 
ginger, two ounces of white mustard-seed, two teaspoon- 
fuls of cayenne pepper ; mix all well together ; lay any 
vegetables you wish to pickle, such as onions, cauli- 
flowers, French beans, radish pods, gherkins, capsicums, 
etc., in salt for three days ; then put them into the 
pickle-bottle, and cork, and in three weeks they will be 
fit for use. 

739. Hot Pickles. 

One gallon of vinegar, two pounds of mustard-seed, one 
pound of long pepper, one of black pepper, tw^o pints of 
Chili vinegar, a bottle of Cayenne pe]3per, six pieces of 
horse-radish the size of an egg, sliced, and two cloves of 
garlic. All tliese ingredient must be well boiled, and 
put in a jar till it cools ; then put in enough turmeric to 
colour it with, or cover the jar till the pickle is quite 
cold, when you must boil it again ; have ready prepared 
the different vegetables you mean to pickle — cabbages, 
cut cauliflowers, and French beans, shoots of young elder, 
celery, radish roots, apples, cucumbers, etc. These should 
be dried some days previously in the sun. If dusty, 



266 PICKLING AND PRESERVING. 

they must be cleaned by j^ouring boiling vinegar over 
them ; take them out, drain, and let them lie a night ; 
then put them into the pickle, and tie the jar or bottle 
down with a bladder. If, after some months, you find 
there is not sufficient vinegar, pour off the pickle, and 
boil it up again with a quart of plain and a pint of Chili 
vinegar, adding another ounce of mustard-seed. These 
receipts are for a large quantity ; but if smaller, the 
same proportions must be observed. 

740. Pickle for Ham or Tongues. 

Boil twenty pounds of salt in two gallons of water, 
skimmiing it well; then add one pound/ of saltpetre, 
three pounds of sugar, one ounce of cloves, the same each 
of mace and allspice, two ounces of whole pepper, garlic, 
shallots, thyme, and bay-leaves ; boil it for a quarter of 
an hour, then put it by to cool ; when cold pour into 
oval crocks ready to receive the tongues or ham. The 
tongues should be well cleaned before putting them in 
by rubbing them with common salt, and laying them on 
a sloping board to drain for a night. This is a very 
good receipt. 

741. Hameurgh Pickle. 

Four gallons of water, six ounces of common salt, four 
ounces of saltpetre, eight ounces of brown sugar ; boil it 
well and strain it. Wlien cold you may put in beef, 
mutton, pork, or tongues. Mind that the meat is 
covered with the brine ; and in nine or ten days it will 
be fit for use, but it will keep in the pickle quite good 



PICKLING AND PRESERVING. 2G7 

for two or three months. The pickle should be reboiled 
and strained once a month. 

742. American Pickle. 

To eight pints of cold spring water add seven pounds of 
large salt, half a pound of saltpetre, and one pound of 
treacle ; mix all well together, and it is then fit to re- 
ceive the meat — pork, beef, or tongues. In this pickle 
they never get hard. It will keep good three or four 
months, according to the quantity of meat that is put 
into it. 

743. To Clarify Sugar for Preserving. 

Allow to every pound of sugar half a pint of water, and 
to every two pounds the white of an egg ; beat the eggs 
up well, and mix them among the water ; then put in 
the sugar, and let it stand to soften a little before you 
set it on the fire ; stir it after the pan is on the fire till 
the sugar is quite dissolved ; when it comes to a boil, 
and the scum rises fast, throw in a little cold water, and 
let it continue to boil till it rises again, then take the 
pan off ; let the sugar settle a little, and skim it, letting 
the scum run through a hair sieve into the pan, so that 
nothing but the dress remains ; set the pan again on the 
fire, and when it comes to a boil add more cold water, 
which miakes a second scum rise ; treat it the same 
way as the first, and it is ready for use. The terms in 
sugar-boiling are first a " small blow," which is when it 
bubbles if blown through a skimmer ; five minutes more 
makes it a '' strong blow ;" in four minutes it becomes a 
" flutter ;" and in five minutes after a " crack," which is 



268 PICKLING A^D PRESERVING. 

ascertained by dipping a stick in cold water, then in the 
sugar, and again in the water, when the sugar which ad- 
heres should slip off and crack between the fingers. One 
minute's more boiling makes it caramel, when the pan 
should be taken off the fire, and stood to cool for a minute 
in water ; if allowed to boil longer, the sugar becomes 
burnt, and is unfit for use. 

744. Dried Fruits. 

Take fresh-gathered peaches ; cut out the kernels ; put 
them on a tin in the oven just as the bread comes out ; 
when about half-done take them out, flatten them, and 
replace them till done sufficiently. Plums may be done 
in the same way, choosing those that fall from the trees. 
Apricots the same as peaches. Pears should be peeled, 
takmg care to leave on the stalks ; then put them with 
the peel in a large pan full of water, boil them till they 
begin to soften, and then dry in the oven as the others. 

745. To Preserve Currants and Gooseberries. 

Have ready some perfectly dry clean bottles ; cut the 
currants from the larger stalks, and drop them gently 
into the bottle ; to each bottle allow a quarter of a pound 
of pounded sugar ; tie bladder over the bottles ; set them 
in a saucepan up to the neck in water, and let them boil 
half an hour, and remain in the water all night. Goose- 
berries the same : keep them in a cool place. Almost all 
fruit and young peas may be preserved in the same way. 
The bottles are better if kept in sand with the cork 
downwards : they should be carefully corked and 
rosined. 



PICKLING AND rRESERVlNG. 2G9 

74 G. To Preserve Plums for Tarts. 

Put the plums into a narrow-mouthed stone jar, and to 
every twelve pounds of plums allow seven pounds of raw 
sugar ; strew it among the plums as you put them in the 
jar ; tie up the mouth of the jar with several folds of 
paper, put them in a cool oven, and let them stand till 
the sugar has thoroughly penetrated the fruit, when they 
will be done enough, and the bottles must be corked 
close, and tied over with bladder. 

747. To Preserve Cucuimbers. 

Lay a dozen large green cucumbers in a pickle of salt 
and water for two days ; then take them out and put 
them in plenty of fresh water for other two days, with 
a plate on the top of them to keep them down. Cover 
the bottom of a pan with vine leaves (cabbage will do), 
lay the cucumbers on them and cover with more leaves ; 
set the pan on the fire and give them a scald ; take the 
pan off, and let them stand till almost cold ; repeat the 
scalding and cooling till the cucumbers begin to look 
green, then take them out, drain them, put them in a 
pan with water and leaves, and boil them three minutes ; 
take them out carefully; make a slit in the flat side mth 
the end of a teaspoon ; scrape out the pulp and seeds ; 
dry the cucumbers between the folds of a cloth; fill 
them with white pepper, a little mace, some sliced 
ginger, and some thin parings of lemon ; tie them round 
with a fine packthread to keep in the seasonings; 
clarify a thin syrup of double-refined sugar, and when 
it is nearly cold pour it over the cucumbers, and keep 



270 PICKLING AND PRESERVING. 

them covered fpr two days ; then strain, reboil the 
syrup, and when cool again pour it over them. Eepeat 
this five times every two or three days, or till the 
cucumbers look quite transparent. Take them out of 
the syrup, and put into a rich syrup, which you will 
have meanwhile prepared, adding the juice of four 
lemons. Put them into jars, cover with paper dipped 
in brandy, and tie them down close. 

748. To Imitate Ginger. 

AVhen white cos lettuce is beginning to run to seed cut 
off the stalks, and peel all the stringy part off them till 
only the heart is left ; then cut in pieces about the size 
West India ginger usually is, and throw the pieces into 
water as you cut them ; wash it well ; have ready some 
sugar and water, in the proportion of a pound of sugar 
to five pints of water ; add a large spoonful of pounded 
ginger, and boil the whole together for twenty minutes ; 
let it stand two days and boil again for half an hour ; 
repeat this five or six times, always leaving it in the 
same syrup, then drain it on a sieve and wipe it with a 
cloth. Prepare a fresh syrup, with as much raw ginger 
in it as will make it taste quite hot ; boil the mock 
ginger in this two or three times, till it looks quite clear 
and tastes as hot as India ginger ; put it then in pots ; 
when it is cold tie it close down. If this is done with 
care it is difficult to detect the mock from the real 
ginger. 

749. Apple Ginger. 

Pare and cut twelve pounds of apples in round pieces ; 
add to them eight pounds of fine-sifted white sugar and 



PICKLING AND PRESERVING. 271 

four ounces of pounded ginger ; let them stand forty- 
eight hours ; then put all into a preserving-pan, and boil 
till the apples look clear ; pot them, and tie bladder 
over the top of the pots. It is better if the ginger is 
only bruised and put into a muslin bag, to be afterwards 
taken out ; but you must then use nearly double the 
quantity of ginger. 

750. To MAKE CurrainT Jelly. 

Take the largest berries you can get; strip them off the 
stalks ; keep back all green ones and the hard red ones 
at the end of the bunch ; then weigh the currants, and 
take the same weight of single-refined sugar ; clarify the 
sugar, and let it boil to candy, which you will know if, 
when it boils thick, you take some out in a spoon, and 
if it hangs in broad flakes it is ready ; then throw the 
currants into the sj-Tup, and let them boil very fast for 
ten minutes ; then pour the jelly through a hair sieve 
into an earthen pan ; stir the currants gently with a 
spoon, but do not break them, or the pulp will run 
through and make the jelly thick. AVhile it is passing, 
clean out the pan it was boiled in; then return the jelly 
and warm it on the fire, but do not let it boil again ; 
pot it up, and cover it with oiled paper. This method 
of making jelly preserves more of the flavour of the 
fruit than by running it through a bag ; and it is 
not so apt either to candy or become fluid as by the 
usual way. 

751. To MAKE Jelly without Boiling. 
Pick the currants carefully; squeeze the juice through 



272 PICKLING AND PRESERVING. 

a linen cloth ; to every pint of juice allow a pound of 
refined sugar ; pound, sift, and put in the oven to dry, 
and get as hot as it can be without melting ; add it in 
this condition to the juice in small quantities at a time. 
It must be constantly stirred by another person while 
the sugar is being added ; when it is all dissolved the 
jelly is ready for potting. If it is well made it will 
keep good three years, and is superior in colour and 
flavour to other boiled jellies. 



DIFFEEENT METHODS OF MAKING 
MARMALADE. 

752. Smooth Marmalade. 

Weigh the oranges, and then take the same weight of 
white sugar ; wipe all the oranges with a wet cloth, and 
grate the zest off them ; cut the oranges longways in 
quarters, take off the skins, scrape all the white pulp off 
the inside of the skins, and from the oranges pick the 
pips out carefully, and put the skins into water in a pan 
to boil till they are so tender they will beat to a mash ; 
squeeze all the water out of them, and remove all 
stringy parts before you pound tliem ; then clarify the 
sugar, and mix the syrup by degrees with the pounded 
skins, stirring with a spoon as if you were making 
starch. When it is well mixed put it into *he pan, and 
let it boil till the sugar is incorporated with it ; then 
put in the pulp of the orange and boil till it is smooth 
and thick. You will know when it is enough done by 



PICKLING AKD PRESERVING. 273 

its becoming more difficult to stir and looking of a finer 
colour. Pound the grated zest in a mortar ; take off 
the marmalade and stir it in carefully; then set the pan 
on the fire again, and let it boil till thoroughly mixed. 
If you do not wish it very bitter you may leave out 
some of the zest, and this you can dry, mix with a little 
sugar, and pot, for seasoning puddings, creams, etc. 

753. Mrs. Eay's IMartmalade. 

Take Seville oranges, grate them, cut them in two, and 
squeeze out the juice ; remove all the l^ithy part, and 
lay them in cold water all night ; then boil them in a 
copper pan till tender ; throw them into cold water ; 
take them out, and drain them well ; then cut them in 
small shreds, but reserve some to pound, which must be 
done quite to a paste ; strain the juice through a sieve, 
and add it and the grating to the rest ; clarify an equal 
weight of sugar as you have of oranges, and when it is 
boiled to proof (which you will know by dropping a 
little into cold water, if it crackles then it is ready for 
you to put in the oranges) ; boil for half an hour ; put 
it into pots, and let the marmalade be quite cold before 
you tie them up. Only the outside part of the peel of 
the orange should be grated in making marmalade. 

754. Orange- Jelly. 

To every pound of oranges two quarts of water ; cut the 
oranges in pieces, remove the pips and core, and put them 
Vv'ith the oranges in a pan on the fire ; let it boil till the 
skins are quite soft ; then press it through a hair sieve, 
rubbing it with a spoon till no more will pass. To every 



274 PICKLING AxN'D PEESERYING. 

pint of this pulp add one pound of sugar ; boil it, re- 
moving the scum as it rises, till it jellies, which you will 
know by letting a little cool in a saucer ; and it is ready 
to pot. 

755. Chip-Marmalade. 

Commence, as in the foregoing receipt, by weighing 
the oranges, wiping and grating them ; as the oranges 
are grated pour boiling water over them, and cover them 
up till ready to use ; take equal weight of sugar ; cut 
the oranges across, and squeeze them through a sieve ; 
boil the skins quite tender ; scrape off all stringy 
parts, and cut them into very thin chips ; set them on 
with the syrup, and boil them till they are transparent ; 
then put in the juice, and strain the water from the 
gratings through a sieve into the pan ; let all boil to- 
gether till the juice jellies. Lemon-marmalade may be 
made in the same way. 

756. Marmalade of the whole Orange. 

For every pound of oranges take two pounds of sugar 
and one quart of water; cut the oranges across, and 
quarter them ; take out the pips and core, and slice all 
down as thin as possible ; to every two pounds of oranges 
allow the juice of three lemons ; mix all together, and 
boil the whole slowly together a full hour ; take care the 
chips do not float, but keep constantly under the sjrrup. 
If well made it should look full of jelly. 

757. Seville Orange Syrup. 

Squeeze the oranges through a fine sieve ; to every pint 
of juice add a pound and a quarter of fine white sugar, 



PICKLING AND PP.ESERVING. 275 

broken into lumps ; stir it up all together in a large 
earthen pan ; skim it twice a-day till the sugar is all 
dissoh^ed, which it ^\ill not be under nine days ; it mast 
not be made near a fire, and should be kept in a cool 
place ; then bottle it. It is useful for making orange 
jelly or cream, and a tablespoonful in a glass of water 
makes a very pleasant drink. Lemons may be made in 
the same way. 

758. Sliced Oranges. 

Choose Seville oranges with the thickest rind, which are 
usually those of the middle size ; cut as many thin round 
shces from the top, bottom, and sides, as you can till 
you come to the pulp ; throw them into a large basin of 
spring water, and let them soak two days, then bqii 
them in the same water till they are cjuite tender ; make 
a syrup with the juice of the oranges and some of the 
water they have been boiled in, allowing to every pound 
of liquid and orange-peel included, a pound of fine loaf- 
sugar; then boil them again, taking one-third of the 
sugar till they look clear, and allow them to lie in this 
thin s}Tup two days ; then strain off the syrup and boil 
it with the rest of the syrup ; skim it well ; put in the 
slices, and boil them a quarter of an hour ; take them out, 
and pot for use. 

759. Orange-Biscuits. 

Boil Seville oranges in water very gently, changing the 
water three or four times till the oranges are quite ten- 
der, and a good deal of the bitterness out of the peels ; 
then cut them in lialves ; scrape out the whole of the 



276 PICKLING AND PEESERVING. 

inside carefully ; weigh the peels, and take twice their 
weight of fine-pounded loaf-sugar, and beat it up with 
the oranges in a marble mortar till it becomes a smooth 
paste ; with the back of a spoon spread this paste upon 
sheets of glass, and set them in a window in the sun to 
dry ; by the next day you may cut the paste into any 
shaped biscuit you please, and just raise it from the glass; 
the day after, turn the biscuits, but let them remain on 
the glass, and as much as possible in the sun till quite 
dry. Keep them in boxes with sheets of paper between 
each layer. Lemon-biscuits may be made in the same 
way. 

760. White Currant Jelly. 

Bruise the currants with the back of a wooden spoon, 
and run the juice tlirough a jelly bag ; to every pint of 
juice take a pound of double-refined sugar ; clarify, and 
boil it to candy ; then put in the currant juice ; boil it 
ten minutes ; skim well, pass through a fine sieve, and 
pot it. 

761. Black Currant Jelly. 

Strip three pints of black currants and one of red from 
their stalks, and put them into a jar with half a pint of 
water ; tie it close over with folds of paper ; set the jar 
in a pan of water, and boil for twelve hours, taking care 
none of the water gets into the jar ; add more water to 
that in the pan as it wastes in boiling ; turn the currants 
when boiled on to a sieve, and bruise them well with 
the back of a spoon, then gather the bruised berries to- 
gether, and put them into a clean bowl ; pour on them 
a pint of water, and bruise them again ; return them to 



nCKLIXG AND PRESERVING. 277 

the sieve, and let them drain all night ; add what runs 
through to the rest of the juice, and for every pint take 
one pound of sugar, clarified and boiled to candy height ; 
let it boil half an hour ; skim as it rises, and pot. 

762. Black Curr^int Syrup. 

Pick any quantity of black currants you please clean from 
their stalks ; put them into a large earthen jar ; cover the 
jar with a cloth, and put it into a cellar or any damp 
place to stand for eight days ; they will probably be 
mouldy on the top ; remove this ; stir them up well with 
a large silver spoon ; put them on to a hair sieve, and the 
juice v^^ill run through quite clear ; to each pint put one 
pound of powdered sugar ; boil ten minutes ; let it stand 
till cold ; bottle, cork, and seal it up. This is very good 
for colds, coughs, etc. 

7 03. To Preserve Cherries for Drying. 

Take the best Kentish cherries ; remove the stones, and 
weigh the fruit ; allow half a pound of double-refined 
sugar to each pound of fruit ; clarify and boil the sugar 
to blow^ing height ; put in the fruit ; boil a minute or two ; 
then take it off the fire, and let it stand a little ; put 
the pan on the fire, and let it boil till the fruit looks 
transparent ; leave the cherries to stand in the syrup 
four or five days, then lay them on sieves, and dry them 
on a slow stove ; change them on to clean sieves every 
day till they are dry ; put them away in card-board 
boxes. 

764. Brandy Cherries. 

Take fine ^lorcllo cherries, cut their stalks short, and 



278 PICKLING AND PEESERVING. 

put them into a glass jar, with a stick of cinnamon, 
twelve cloves, a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar- 
candy, and a quart of brandy. N.B. — The glass jar 
must be quite full. Tie it over with bladder. 

765. Greengages in Brandy. 

Take greengages preserved according to the following 
receipt, put them in a glass jar, fill them up with good 
French brandy, tie the jar over, and keep a few weeks. 
Peaches, nectarines, and a^^ricots may be done in the 
same way. 

766. To Preserve Greengages. 

Pick the plums when full grown and nearly ripe ; let 
them lie in cold water twenty-four hours j lay some 
vine leaves in the bottom of a clean brass pan; take the 
plums out of the water and lay them in the pan, pouring 
over as much water as will just cover them ; strew a 
pinch of powdered alum over, and set the pan on a clear 
fire ; when they rise to the top, take them out, and put 
them into a bowl with a little fresh warm water ; clean 
the pan and lay fresh vine leaves in it ; return the fruit 
to the pan ; cover it with boiling water, and a small 
pinch more powdered alum ; put a cloth over the pan, 
and let it stand a quarter of an hour ; then take the 
plums out of the water, weigh them, and take the same 
weight of double-refined pounded sugar; put the fruit 
into a clean pan, strew the pounded sugar over them, 
add a little water, set the pan on a clear fire, and let it 
boil slowly till the fruit looks green and transparent. Tt 



PICKLI^s^G AND PRESERVING. 279 

is then ready to put into pots; boil the syrup, however, 
a little longer, and let it get cold, when you may pour it 
over the greengages and let them stand two or three 
days ; then pour off the syrup, and boil it up again AA^th 
more sugar till it is thick and smooth ; pour it over the 
fruit, and close up the pots. 

767. Crystallised Fruits 

May also be made, Avhen preserved, by first draining 
them thoroughly from the s}Tup ; cover them with 
clarified sugar ; boil a minute or two ; drain them on 
sieves, placing them so that they cannot touch each 
other ; dust them over with coarsely-powdered sugar ; 
when dry on one side, then powder the other ; repeat 
this, and when quite dry put them away in boxes. 

768. To Preserve Apricots. 

Choose ripe apricots ; take the stone out at one end, so 
that they may look whole ; prick them all over -with 
the point of a knife, and lay them in a shallow stew-pan, 
taking care they do not touch each other ; add a little 
clarified sugar to them, but not enough to cover them ; 
let them boil gently up ; take the pan ofif, and when the 
apricots are cold turn them in the pan, and boil them 
up again ; repeat this twice more, taking care to let 
them get cold between each turning. AA^ien they have, 
after the last boil-up, stood twelve hours, drain them ; 
put into each a kernel which you have previously 
blanched, dust them over with pounded sugar, lay them 
on tins, and put them into a cool oven to dry. Kext 
day turn tliem on a sieve, let them get perfectly dry 



280 PICKLING AND PRESEIIVING. 

and hard, and put them away in boxes with paper 
between. Peaches and nectarines may be done in the 
same way. 

769. ApPvICOT-Jam. 

Stone and peel the apricots ; take equal weight of sugar 
and fruit; clarify and boil the sugar to candy; put in 
the apricots, and let them boil very quick till they are 
well broke, and bruise them a little mth a spoon ; 
blanch the kernels and add them. A little white 
currant jelly boiled with the apricots is also an improve- 
ment. Take the pan off, and when the jam is cool, pot 
and tie it down. Greengages and other plums may be 
made into jam in the same way. 

770. Compote d'Abpjcots. 

Take apricots nearly ripe ; remove the stone without 
breaking them ; put them in a pan of water on the fire, 
but do not let them boil ; for every twenty-five apricots 
take a pound of sugar ; clarify it, and put in the apricots ; 
set them on a very slow fire, that the sugar may incor- 
porate ; when quite tender, they are done. If they are 
to be preserved for future use, drain them, boil the sjrrup 
next day, and pour it, when cold, over the fruit ; con- 
tinue doing this for five days, adding each time a little 
more sugar, as it is necessary the fruit should be quite 
covered with the syrup. On the last day put the apricots 
into the boiling sugar, and give them a gentle boil ; 
skim them well ; and peaches and quinces may be done 
in the same way, either for present use or to keep a year. 



nCKLING AND PRESEEVING. 281 

771. ArmcoT Paste. 

Take any quantity of perfectly ripe apricots you choose ; 
take out the stones ; put them in a pan of water on the 
fire to boil till they break ; drain and rub them through 
a sieve ; dry and weigh the paste ; take as much clarified 
sugar as fruit ; mix well together ; put it again on the 
fire to boil ; it must be more done than for marmalade ; 
then put the paste into moulds, or make it into thin flat 
cakes, and dry them in the oven or stove ; paper each 
one, and put them by in boxes. 

772. Pine- Apple Jelly. 

Boil two dozen of the best common apples as for apple - 
jelly ; pass them through a jelly bag, and to every two 
quarts of juice add the juice of a fine pine-apple, wliich 
you extract by cutting it into slices, and laying it for 
two days in fine pounded sugar ; add this to the apple 
juice, clarify, and boil three pints of syrup to a crack ; 
boil the refuse of the pine-apple and the juice ten 
minutes ; pass through a, jelly bag, and pot. 

773. Pine- Apple Ja^l 

Pare, cut in slices, and pound a pine-apple to a pulp ; 
to a pint of pulp put a pound of sifted sugar ; boil it 
twenty-five minutes, and joot. 

774. Pine- Apple jMarmalade. 

Pare the pine-apple, then cut it round and round in 
small thin shreds or strips like orange marmalade ; to 
each pound of fruit the same weight of fine sugar ; boil 



282 PICKLING AND PKESERVING. 

till jellied. If there is not enough juice in the pine- 
apple, add either lemon or apple-juice. 

775. Pine- Apple IN Slices. 

Pare off the outside, and cut the pine-apple in slices 
about half an inch thick; put a layer of fruit and a layer 
of sugar alternately in an earthen pan ; let it remain on 
the stove three or four days, then put it into a preserv- 
ing-pan with the juice of four lemons, and boil for ten 
minutes, skimming it well ; next day boil it again for 
ten minutes, and put it up. Or the slices may be 
drained from the syrup, powdered with sugar, and dried 
in the oven ; the syrup being kept to flavour jellies, 
creams, etc. 

776. Apple- Jelly. 

Pare and core six pounds of green codlings or any juicy 
apples ; cut them in pieces, and add a quart of water to 
them ; boil them gently till quite mashed, stirring all 
the time ; put this through a jelly-bag, and to a quart 
of this juice add three pints of clarified syrup ; boil the 
sugar to a crack, add the apj^le-juice, and boil together 
ten minutes. Care must be taken not to boil it too 
much, or it becomes like treacle. Any sort of fruit may 
be added to this jelly, boiling the fruit whole in it, and 
putting it into pots while hot — such as strawberries, 
raspberries, cherries, etc. 

777. Strawberpjes Whole. 

Take two quarts of clarified sjrrup, boil to a strong 
blow, put eight pounds of fine large strawberries in it, 



PICKLING AND PRESERVING. 283 

and boil them up gently, taking care they do not break 
Kepeat this boiling three times, letting them stand a 
quarter of an hour to cool between each. Now add two 
quarts of apple-jelly made as above ; boil it up three 
times more, and put it hot into glasses or pots. 

778. Easpberry-Jam. 

Pick and clean the raspberries well, and to every pound 
add a pint of red currant juice and a pound and a half 
of lump-sugar ; pound it and put it into a pan alter- 
nately with the fruit ; let it stand some time before you 
set it on the fire, that the sugar may soften ; boil over 
a quick fire, and when the fruit falls to the bottom it is 
done enough. 

779. Gooseberry- Jabi. 

Take the same weight of pounded sugar as of goose- 
berries, strewing the sugar over them as you put them 
in the pan ; pour half a pint of water over them, and 
set them on a slow fire to boil gently a few minutes ; 
skim as clear as you can ; then put them on a hotter fire, 
and boil till they look quite clear, and will jelly (about 
t\v'enty minutes). They are then ready to pot. 

780. Gooseberry- Jelly. 

Fill a stone jar with ripe gooseberries ; cover the top 
close up with paper ; set the jar in water, and boil till 
the gooseberries are quite tender ; then pass them 
through a sieve, and to every pint of juice add a pound of 
single-refined sugar, clarified ; put in the juice, and boil 



284 PICKLING AND PKESERVING. 

till it jellies, which you will easily know by letting a 
little cool in a saucer. Green gooseberry jelly, from un- 
ripe gooseberries, may be made in the same way. 

781. Gooseberry-Cheese. 

Mash two quarts of ripe red or green gooseberries, add 
a pound of fine-sifted sugar to them, and let them stand 
all night ; next day boil it up ; rub the gooseberries 
through a sieve, and boil the pulp, stirring it all the 
time over a gentle fire for twenty-five minutes ; put it 
in moulds or pots. Cheese of apricots, peaches, or plums 
may be made in the same way. 

782. Gooseberry-Biscuits. 

Gather the fruit when full grown, but not ripe ; put 
them into a jar, and set them to boil in a kettle of water 
till they become soft ; rub through a sieve. To every 
pound of pulp add a pound of loaf-sugar ; stir it till the 
sugar is dissolved over the fire ; then pour it into shallow 
dishes to dry in the sun or in a cool oven. When it be- 
gins to candy, you may cut them into any form you 
please. Turn them every day till they become dry and 
hard ; keep in tin boxes in a dry place. Barberries, 
apricots, lemons, etc., to be done the same way. 



COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND POOR. 



783. EuMFORD Soup. 

Take double the quantity of water you want to have 
soup ; one pound of split peas, three carrots and turnips, 
or more if they are not large, and put it overnight to 
simmer by a slow fire ; strain it next morning ; add a 
quarter of a pound of rice, pepper, salt, celery, and any 
other vegetable you may have. Let them simmer on a 
slow fire till tender. 

784. Soup for the Poor. 

One pound of beef, a quarter of a pound of rice or 
barley, two onions, five turnips, pepper, and salt ; put 
all together into a gallon of water ; when it has boiled 
for an hour, take out the beef and cut it in small pieces ; 
add some potatoes, and boil an hour longer. It may also 
be thickened with meal, which makes it more nourishing. 

785. A Nourishing Soup for the Poor. 

Take the liquor in which meat has been boiled the day 
before, with the bones of leg and shin of beef, and add 
as much water as will make thirty gallons ; add also 
two ox heads, the meat of ten stone of leg and shin of 
beef, all cut in pieces ; two bunches of carrots, four of 
turnips, two bunches of leeks, half a peck of onions, a 



286 



COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND POOR. 



bunch of celery, half a pound of pepper, and some salt ; 
boil six hours, and thicken it with either barley or oat- 
meal. This can, of course, be made in smaller quantities. 
The estimated cost of the thirty gallons of soup, when 
the receipt was given to me, was as follows : — 



Stone leg and shin of beef 


s. 
11 


8 


2 Ox heads 


4 





2 Bunches carrots . 







6 


4 Bunches turni]:)s . 




. 


8 


2 Bunches leeks 







4 


i Peck onions 







8 


1 Bunch celery 







6 


J Pound pepper 




1 


8 




20 






786. Sago Milk for the Poor. 

I^ut a teacupful of sago into a quart of water, with a 
bit of lemon-peel; when thickened, add some grated 
ginger, half a pmt of raisin or port wine, brown sugar, 
and two spoonfuls of geneva ; boil all up together. To 
be given in cases of great weakness. 

787. An Excellent Soup for the Poor. 

Put two cow-heels and a breast of mutton into a large 
pan, with four ounces of rice, an onion, a turnip, a 
carrot ; twenty Jamaica and twenty black peppercorns, 
and a little salt ; pour on it four gallons of water ; cover 
the i^an with brown paper, and bake in the oven six 
hours. 



COOKEKY roil THE SICK AND POOR. 287 

788. Stew for the Poor. 

Take a pound and a quarter of fat mutton; cut it into 
pieces ; add nine potatoes, two turnips, eight onions, 
half a gill of split peas, and a little celery-seed ; cut all 
the vegetables up small ; season with salt and pepper, 
and pour five quarts of water on the whole ; let it 
simmer two hours and a half on a slow fire. The whole 
expenses will not exceed Is. 6d., and it will feed more 
than five persons. 

789. Pea-Sour 

One pound of split peas, one teaspoonful of celery-seed, 
a large onion, some ground and whole pepper, salt, and 
a beef bone or two, either raw or cooked ; boil the whole 
together slowly two or tliree hours ; strain it, and set it 
on to boil again slowly for a short time. Potato-soup 
may be made in the same way, but do not strain, and 
leave out the celery-seed. 

790. Beef-Tea. 

Cut three pounds of beef into pieces the size of a walnut, 
and if there are any bones chop them up also ; put it 
into a saucepan with some vegetables, such as carrots, 
turnips, celery, an onion, or some leeks, etc., half an 
ounce of salt and some pepper, a teaspoonful of sugar, 
and a pint of water; set it on a sharp fire for ten 
minutes, stirring it now and then with a spoon. It 
should form a thick, but not brown, gravy at the 
bottom. Then add six pints of hot water ; set it on 
a sharp fire, and when it boils take it off and set it 



288 COOKEliY FOR THE SICK AND POOR. 

by the side to simmer for an hour ; skim off all the 
fat, strain it through a sieve, and it is ready to serve. 
This is very good to drink cold during the night for 
invalids; but, when made for this purpose, the onion 
should be left out. This receipt makes about six pints. 

791. Beef-Tea. 

Cut a pound of lean meat into thin slices ; put it into 
a pan with two pints and a half of cold water ; set it 
over a slow fire, to become gradually warm, after the 
scum rises, which you should remove ; let it continue 
gently simmering an hour, then strain through a fine 
sieve ; let it stand ten minutes to settle, and pour off 
the clear tea ; a little salt and a few grains of black 
pepper should be added, and a little celery-seed and a 
whole carrot boiled in it improves the flavour. Yeal or 
mutton tea may be made in the same way. 

792. Calves'-Feet Broth. 

Boil two calves' feet, two ounces of veal, and two of 
beef, the bottom of a penny-loaf, a blade or two of 
mace, and a little salt, in three quarts of water till it 
comes to three pints ; strain, and carefully remove all 
the fat. 

793. A VERY Nourishing Yeal Broth, 

Put the knuckle of a leg or shoulder of veal, with but 
little meat on it, an old fowl, and four shank-bones of 
mutton well soaked and crushed, three blades of mace, 
ten peppercorns, an onion, and a large piece of bread, 
with three quarts of water, into a stew-pot that covers 



COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND POOR. 289 

close ; let it boil up, skim it, and then let it simmer 
four hours as gently as possible ; strain it, remove the 
fat, salt it to taste, and it is ready to serve. 



794. Chicken-Tea. 

Skin and divide the chicken in pieces, leaving out the 
back ; put it in some clear water, with a blade of mace, 
a few white peppercorns, and an onion sliced ; simmer 
till it is sufficiently strong, then strain, and when cold 
carefully remove all the fat. It m.ay be drunk cold or 
heated again. 

795. Very Strengthening Chicken-Broth. 

Cut down and bruise two or three cock chickens ; put 
them in a saucepan with three quarts of water ; rimmer 
till the juice is entirely drawn from them ; press it well 
out, strain, and return the soup to the saucepan ; add 
salt, whole pepper, rice, or vermicelli ; a whole chicken 
may be boiled in the soup, and served so in it. In 
spring, young vegetables, parsley, and chervil may be 
added. 

796. Stewed Partridges. 

Half-stew one or two partridges ; cut them up, take out 
the largest bones, put them in a pan with the liquor they 
were stewed in, with a little salt, a blade of mace, and a 
bit of lemon-peel ; when done, serve with the gravy in 
the dish. All sorts of poultry and game are light and 
nourishing done in the same way. 

u 



290 COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND POOR. 

797. Eestorative Jelly for the Poor. 

Take a neat's foot cleaned and j^repared, two ounces of 
hartshorn shavings, two quarts of milk, and two quarts 
of water ; bake for several hours in a slow oven, strain 
it, and when cold remove the fat ; warm it a little 
and sweeten it ; a cupful to be taken as often as liked. 
In summer it is best to omit the milk in making it, and 
add a little when used. 

798. Strengthening Jelly. 

Bake four calves' feet in two quarts of water, and the 
same of new milk, in a close covered jar four hours. 
When cold, remove the fat j it may be flavoured with 
lemon-peel, cinnamon, mace, etc., and sweetened to taste. 
Give a glassful the first and last thing. 

799. Another. 

Boil half an ounce of fine isinglass with a quart of new 
milk, till reduced to a pint ; add some sugar and two or 
three bitter almonds, pounded. Drink this at bedtime ; 
it is good for a cough. 

800. Nourishing Jelly. 

Simmer six sheep's trotters, two blades of mace, a little 
cinnamon, lemon-peel, a few hartshorn shavings, and a 
little isinglass, in two quarts of water till it is reduced 
to one ; when cold, remove the fat. Give half a pint 
twice a-day, warming it with a little new milk. 



COOKEEY FOE THE SICK AND TOOK. 291 



801. Strengthening Jellies. 

Boil cow-heel down to a strong jelly ; take equal parts 
of the jelly and white wine ; flavour with lemon-juice, 
zest, and sugar, and to each pmt add three fresh yolks 
of eggs ; beat it well ; heat it over a stove, stirring 
constantly ; pour it out, continue stirring till cold, and 
put it into cups. 

Two ounces of isinglass dissolved in a jnnt of water ; add 
a glass of white wine, the juice and peel of two lemons, 
and sugar enough to sweeten ; beat the yolks of six very 
fresh eggs, and add them ; thicken it over the fire, stirring 
all the time ; pour it into a basin, and stir till cold. 

802. To iviAKE Cake Jelly to Keep. 

Take nine or a dozen gang or set of calves' feet, scald them 
well, slit them up, and lay them to soak in warm water 
for several hours. Put them on in a large pot, with 
water enough to cover them ; when they are boiled 
enough for the bones to come out, remove them, and 
return the meat to the pot, and let it boil slowly till 
all the substance is out of it ; strain it through a hair 
sieve into an earthen vessel that will hold it ; while it 
is warm, skim all the fat you can from it ; let it stand all 
night ; and if there is any more fat, remove it carefully ; 
when you take it out of the vessel, cut the sediment 
from the bottom of it, then put the jelly into a clean 
brass pan, and set it on a moderate fire. It must boil 
till it is very thick, and appears almost black in the pan ; 
then pour it out as thin as you can on stone plates. 
When it is cool, take it from the plates and lay it at a 



292 COOKERY FOE THE SICK AND POOR. 

distance from the fire to dry gradually. "VVlien it is quite 
dry, and looks clear and hard like horn, put it by in tin 
boxes to keep for use. 

803. Hartshorn Jelly. 

Put half a pound of hartshorn shavings into three quarts 
of water ; boil to a quart ; then add an ounce of the 
strained juice of Seville oranges or lemons, four ounces 
of Malaga wine, and half a pound of fine sugar ; boil 
down to a consistence fit to drink when warm, or jelly 
when cold. 

804. IcELAND-Moss Jelly. 

Boil three-quarters of an ounce of Iceland moss (un- 
washed) in a pint and a half of water until only a pint 
remains ; add the juice of a Seville orange, and take a 
wine-glassful two or three times a day. (Very nourish- 
ing and good in consumptive cases.) 

805. IvoRY-DusT Jelly. 

Boil one pound of ivory-dust in three quarts of water 
for eight hours. It will require no skimming. When 
done strain through a jelly-bag. This may be flavoured 
in various ways with wine or lemon and sugar ; but it 
is very strengthening, and its principal use is, that, 
having no taste, it may be mixed in tea or coff'ee or 
other fluids, and given without the patient's detecting it. 

806. Gloucester Jelly. 

Barley, sago, rice, and eringo root, of each one ounce ; 
boil them in a quart of water till reduced to a pint ; 



COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND POOR. 293 

then pass it through a sieve. A teacupful, with a 
little milk, to be taken night and morning ; or it may 
be dissolved in beef-tea, wine, etc. 

807. Pork Soup or Jelly. 

Cut up and break the bone of a leg of pork ; simmer it 
gently in three gallons of water till reduced to one ; 
add salt and pepper, and let half an ounce of nutmeg or 
other spice stew in it ; and strain it. This may either be 
taken as soup, a cupful tliree times a day, or eaten cold 
as jslly, and is extremely nourishing. 

808. Yeal Soup or Jelly. 

Slice a pound of veal very thin ; put it into a closely- 
covered jar or other vessel in alternate layers, with 
sliced turnips ; add one teacupful of water and a little 
salt ; place in a pan of water, and simmer gently four 
hours ; or it may be done for the same time in the oven ; 
strain it, and when cold it will be a strong jelly, and is 
equally good and nutritious eaten so, or w\armed into 
soup. 

809. Fowl Soup or Jelly. 

Skin and cut in pieces an old fowl ; break the bones ; 
put it in a covered earthen pan with a cup of water ; 
simmer seven hours either in a bain marie or the oven ; 
season to taste, and strain it. To be eaten either hot, or 
cold as jelly. 

810. PARTRroCE OR PHEASANT SoUP OR JeLLY. 

Skin and cut in pieces two large old partridges or one 
pheasant ; fry it with a small quantity of butter or fat 



294 COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND POOR. 

bacon, together with an onion or two, some celery, and 
a little salt. When quite done, pour three quarts of 
boiling water on it, and put it in a close-covered vessel, 
which place either in the oven or in a pan of water on 
the fire to simmer slowly three hours ; then strain off the 
soup. 

811. Bread-Berry. 

Pour boiling water over thin slices of bread in a bowl, 
as much as will make it thick or thin as you wish; 
sweeten it with brown sugar, and add a little cinnamon 
water. 

812. Bread Panada. 

Set some water on the fire, about a tumblerful, with a 
glass of sherry, some loaf-sugar, and a little grated 
nutmeg and lemon-peel. Have some grated crumbs of 
bread ready, and the moment the water boils put them 
in without taking the pan ofi" the fire. Let it boil as 
fast as possible. When sufiiciently thick just to drink 
it is ready for use. 

813. Chicken Panada. 

Skin a chicken, and boil it in a quart of water till about 
three-parts ready; let it stand till cold, then cut all the 
white meat off"; put it into a mortar and pound it to a 
paste "vvith a little of the water it was boiled in; season 
with a little salt, a grate of a nutmeg, and a small piece 
of lemon-peel ; boil gently a few minutes to the con- 
sistency yoLi like. It should be tolerably thick, but 
such as you can drink if you please. Barley or rice may 
be boiled to a pulp, passed through a tammy, and added 



COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND POOR. 295 

to it, which makes it more nourishing. The panada 
can also be made mth partridge or pheasant in the 
same way. It is very nutritious and easy of digestion. 

814. Caudle. 

Put two spoonfuls of oatmeal into a quart of water, with 
a little mace and lemon-peel, stir it often, and let it boil 
half an hour ; strain it ; add some sugar and nutmeg, 
and a large glass of white wine. Brown caudle is pre- 
pared as above, but after straining you add a pint of 
good mild ale, and flavour with brandy and sugar. 

815. Grit Gruel. 

Well wash half a pint of split grits, boil them in three 
pints of water till rather thick and smooth, stirring it 
frequently ; strain through a hair sieve, and add either 
sugar or salt to taste. 

816. Oatmeal Gruel. 

If for thick gruel, mix well together in a basin two 
tablespoonfuls of oatmeal with three of water ; if for 
thin gruel, only one with the same quantity of water ; 
have ready in a stew-pan a pint of boiling water or milk ; 
pour this by degrees to the oatmeal you have mixed, 
and then return the whole to the sauce-pan, set it on the 
fire, and let it boil five minutes, stirring it all the time; 
then strain it through a hair sieve, and it is ready for 
use. If wished more nourishing, it may be made with 
broth instead of water or milk. 



296 COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND POOR. 



817. To MAKE Arrowroot. 

For one cupful take a teaspoonful of the best arrowroot, 
and mix it by degrees with cold water till it is quite 
smooth, but so stiff that the spoon will only just turn 
round in it; have ready a kettle of quite boiling water, 
and fill the cup up, pouring at first slowly and then 
more rapidly, and stirring all the time in the same 
proportion. The result should be a perfectly clear jelly, 
to which you may add a tablespoonful of brandy or 
sherry, or flavour it with lemon, and sweeten with sugar 
to taste. It is much better made in this way than 
boiled. 

818. Porridge. 

Fill a pan with water, and while it is boiling add a little 
meal and as much salt as you think will be necessary to 
season the porridge ; then take the porridge-stick (a 
round stick like a thin rolling-pin) in the right hand 
and the oatmeal in the left, and when the water begins 
to rise shake in the meal with one hand and stir 
with the other quickly, but adding the meal by degrees ; 
continue putting it in till it is thick enough not to fly 
over when stirred ; continue to boil it for some time, 
well beating it with the porridge-stick. It may be made 
thinner or thicker according to taste. Barley-meal por- 
ridge is made in the same w^ay, and should be served in a 
soup plate, which is better than a wooden bowl, in which 
oatmeal porridge is best. They are both eaten with 
milk and cream, or ale and brown sugar. Nothing is 
so wholesome and nourishing for children. 



COOKERY FOR THE SICK A^^D POOR. 297 

819. Fltrmity. 

Boil wlieat till it comes to a jelly, and to a quart of this 
add by degrees two quarts of new milk ; stir and boil 
till well mixed ; beat the yolks of three eggs, with a 
little nutmeg, and sugar to sweeten it to taste ; stir this 
well in over the fire ; pour it into deep dishes, and eat 
either hot or cold. 

820. Flummery. 

Put three handfuls of fine white oatmeal to steep a day 
and night in cold water ; then pour the water off clear, 
and add as much more water ; let it again stand the 
same time ; then strain it through a fine hair sieve, 
and boil it till it is as thick as hasty pudding, stirring 
it all the time ; add to it, while boiling, a spoonful of 
sugar and two of orange-flower water. When ready, 
pour it into shallow dishes. Wine, milk, or cream are 
eaten with it. 

821. Dutch Flummery. 

Boil two ounces of isinglass in a pint and a half of water 
very gently for half an hour ; add a pint of white mne, 
the juice of three lemons, and the rind of one cut very 
thin ; rub a few lumps of sugar or another lemon to 
obtain the essence ; add as much of this sugar as will 
sweeten it sufficiently ; beat the yolks of seven eggs, add 
and mix into the above, and give the whole one scald, 
stirring all the time ; pour it into a basin, and stir till 
cold ; let it settle, and put it into cups, or any shape. 
This is very strengthening. 



298 COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND POOR. 

822. EiCE Flummery. 

Boil with a pint of new milk a bit of lemon-peel and 
cinnamon, mix with a little cold milk ; rice-flour enough 
to make it rather thick ; add to the hot milk, and boil it 
till it is, smooth and of good consistency, taking care it 
does not burn ; then pour it into a basin ; when cold, 
turn it on to a dish, and serve with cream, milk, or 
custard. 

823. Barley Gruel. 

Wash four ounces of pearl barley ; boil it into two quarts 
of water, with a bit of cinnamon, till it is reduced to 
one quart ; strain, and return it to the sauce-pan, with a 
little sugar and three-quarters of a pint of port wine ; 
make it quite hot, and it is ready to be used as wanted. 
It is very strengthening. 

824. Ground-Eice Milk. 

Boil one spoonful of ground rice, rubbed down smooth, 
with a pint and a half of milk, a bit of cinnamon and 
lemon-peel, a little nutmeg and sugar to taste ; add the 
sugar only when nearly done. It should be thick and 
smooth. 

825. Thick Barley- Water. 

Wash a quarter of a pound of pearl barley, and boil it in 
a gallon of water till it is quite soft, smooth, and white ; 
then strain, and flavour with lemon-juice, and sweeten 
with a little syrup. Some people consider barley-water 
made with common barley as preferable to pearl barley. 
It should be well washed, and allowed to simmer slowly, 



COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND POOR. 299 

with a little lemon-peel, in water, and when thick enough 
strained. 

826. Clear Barley- Water. 

Wash a large cupful of pearl barley twice in cold and 
once in warm water, throwing away the water ; then put 
the barley into a jug holding about two pints, with the 
peel of a lemon cut very thin and a small piece of sugar ; 
pour qidte boiling water over this, cover it close, and let 
it stand till cold ; do not strain, but pour it off clear. 

827. Toast and Water. 

Cut a crust off a loaf of stale bread, about twice the 
thickness toast is usually cut ; toast it carefully till it is 
hard and brown all over, but not at all blackened or 
burnt; put this into a jug, and pour over it what quantity 
of water you require, boiling hot ; cover the jug close, and 
let it stand till cold. The fresher it is made the better, 
as it is apt to turn sour. 

828. Oatmeal- Water 

Is made in the same way as toast and water. The oat- 
meal may be browned in the oven or before the fire ; boil- 
ing water is then poured over it as above. It is very 
useful in stopping sickness. 

829. Orgeat of Montpellier. 

Take one pound of barley; wash it and soak it in water; 
separate the grains well ; tie it up in a piece of muslin, 
put it in a pot with a quart of water, and set it on the fire 



300 COOKERY FOE THE SICK AND POOE. 

to boil gently four hours. Then put into the water one 
pound of sweet almonds, without their skins ; boil a few 
minutes ; then take out the barley and almonds ; pound 
them together in a mortar ; mix well with the water ; 
strain all together through a piece of linen ; pound again 
the residue ; pour the water over ; stir, and repeat the 
straining. This water should now look very thick. Add a 
pound of pounded lump-sugar, and boil to a syrup. You 
will know that the syrup is done by dropping some on 
to a plate, and it remains like paste. Then take it off 
the fire, and flavour it with fleur d'orange, or anything 
else you please. Bottle and keep it for use. To make 
the drink, put into the bottom of a decanter one ounce 
of syrup, pour fresh water over it, shake to mix it well, 
and it is ready to drink immediately. 

830. Fresh Orgeat or Almond-Milk. 

Blanch and pound four ounces of sweet almonds and 
four bitter almonds ; when pounded very fine, add one 
quart of water, a spoonful of syrup, or some pounded 
sugar, and two spoonfuls of orange-flower water. This 
latter may be omitted, and it may be made with milk 
instead of water. It is very good for a cough, and very 
serviceable in many inflammatory attacks. 

831. Raspberry- Water to Drink. 

Mash one pint of raspberries in the juice of two lemons, 
a pint of water, and as much syrup as will sweeten it to 
taste ; strain through a lawn sieve. Strawberry, cherry, 
and mulberry water may be made in the same way. It 
is a very refreshing drink when feverish, or in hot 
weather. 



cookery for the sick and poor. 301 

832. Lemon Cup. 

Tlie peel of a lemon added to an ounce of clarified sugar 
and a pint of quite boiling water ; when quite cold add 
the juice of the lemon and a glass of white wine. 

833. Lemonade. 

To a dozen of lemons add two quarts of water, two 
pounds of sugar, a pint and a half of any kind of white 
wine, and a pint of milk ; peel all the lemons, and pour 
the water boiling on the peel ; let it stand till nearly 
cold, then squeeze in the juice, and add the sugar and 
wine, and the milk, which must be boiling ; let it stand 
a few minutes, and pour it through a jelly-bag till it is 
quite clear. 

834. Apple-Water. 

Peel and slice some sharp apples ; add a little sugnr and 
lemon-pee], then pour over it boiling water. Let it stand 
in a covered jug by the fire for two hours, when it is fit 
for use. It may be drunk cold or hot, and is very re- 
freshing, iced. Another way of making it is to cut 
six apples in pieces, leaving the skins on ; pour over 
them a quart of boiling water ; let it stand an hour, and 
add two ounces of honey, and the juice of two lemons. 

835. Ehubarb-Water. 

Boil six clean-washed stalks of rhubarb ten minutes in 
a quart of water ; strain the liquor through a tammy 
into a jug ; add the peel of a lemon cut very thin and 
one tablespoonful of clarified sugar ; let it stand five or 
six hours, and it is fit to drink. 



302 COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND POOK. 

836. Drink for a Fever. 

Boil three ounces of currants, two ounces of raisins care- 
fully stoned, and an ounce and a half of tamarinds, in 
three pints of water till it is reduced to a quart ; strain 
it ; add a piece of lemon-peel, and let it stand an hour, 
when it is fit for use. 

837. Imperial Drink. 

Pour two quarts of boiling water upon an ounce of 
cream-of-tartar and the peel of half a lemon ; let it 
stand till quite cold ; then pour it off, and sweeten to 
taste. If liked, the juice of the lemon may be added. 

838. Lemon-Whey. 

Boil a quart of milk and water (a pint of each) ; add 
to it the juice of two lemons ; let it simmer five minutes, 
then strain it ofi", and add a little sugar. This is an 
excellent drink for a cold. 

839. White-Wine Whey. 

Put a pint of new milk on the fire ; when it boils up 
pour in a glassful of wine — sherry or madeira ; if one 
glassful is not enough, add more — it must be enough 
completely to turn the milk ; let it boil up once, and 
set it aside till the curd subsides; pour the whey gently 
off, add a little boiling water, and sugar to taste. 

840. An excellent Drink for a Cough. 

Beat up two eggs w4th half a pint of milk, warmed, two 
tablespoonfuls of capillaire, and the same of rose-water. 



COOKERY FOR THE SICK AND POOR. 303 

It must not be warmed after the egg is added, or it 
will curdle. 

841. Linseed Drink. 

Pour over a teaspoonful of linseed, or more if required 
thicker for a cough, a quart of boiling water ; the whole 
or half the peel of a lemon and two or three pieces of 
sugar-candy are to be added, and the whole left to stand 
in a covered jug till cold. 

842. Clarified Milk Whey. 

To six pints of milk add enough rennet to turn it ; leave 
it to make in a warm place j press out the whey, and 
strain ; clarify it by adding the whites of three eggs, 
and half a drachm of cream-of-tartar ; boil, and filter 
through paper. 

843. Brandy Mixture. 

A gill of brandy, the same quantity of cinnamon water, 
beaten up with the yolks of two eggs and half an ounce 
of pounded sugar. This is a valuable restorative in cases 
of extreme exhaustion. A tablespoonful or two should 
be given at intervals of from ten to fifteen minutes. 

844. Egg Cordial. 

A tablespoonful of cream, the white of a very fresh egg^ 
and a tablespoonful of brandy ; whip first the egg nearly 
to a froth, then the cream with the egg ; add the brandy 
by degrees, and mix well -, do not let it stand after it is 
made. This is very nourishing, and so light, it will 
remain in the stomach when nothing else will. The 
receipt was given to me by the late Professor Miller of 
Edinburgh. 



304 COOKEPtY FOR THE SICK AND POOK. 



845. For a Weak Digestion. 

Beat up in a basin a fresh-laid egg, add six tablespoon- 
fuls of cold water, then two of potato-flour; mix it 
thoroughly with the water and egg, and pour as much 
boiling water over it as will make into a jelly, stirring it 
well. This is useful in all cases of stomachic debility ; 
it is light, wholesome, and nourishing. It may be eaten 
for breakfast with the addition of a little milk and sugar. 

846. Lait de Poule 

Is simply the yolk of an egg well beat, then carefully 
adding to it by degrees boiling water, stirring it all the 
time to prevent its curdling. It should be sweetened 
with sugar-candy. For a cold, a spoonful of wine or rum 
may be added to it, or it may be made with beef-tea 
instead of water, which makes it very nourishing. 

847. Cordial for the Weak. 

Add a pint of wine to a quart of barley-gruel ; boil it 
down to one-third ; add lemon-peel or any seasoning 
preferred. A teacupful taken several times a-day is 
very strengthening. 

848. Cordial for an Invalid. 

Half a pmt of the best French brandy, boiled with as 
much coarse brown sugar as the brandy will imbibe, till 
it becomes about the consistency of treacle. Boiling the 
brandy takes away its heating qualities ; and tliis receipt, 
taken frequently in small quantities, has been found of 
the greatest use to consumptive persons. 



DAIEY-CHEESE, BUTTER, etc. 



G49. To Prepare Rennet. 

Take a calf's maw and turn it out of the bag ; then tali:e 
nutmeg crushed small, a large handful of sweet bay 
leaves minced, and a large handful of salt ; when well 
mixed together put it into the bag. Boil a strong pickle 
of salt and water ; when cold, pour three pints of it over 
the bag ; cover it up, turning it every day for a fortnight, 
and pricking it with a fork ; then squeeze it all through 
a cloth, and bottle for use. A few nettles boiled with 
the water are considered an improvement. Or it may be 
prepared thus : — Take out the stomach of a calf just 
killed, and scour it well with salt and water both inside 
and out ; let it drain ; put tAVO large handfuls of salt in it, 
and sew it up ; dry it, and soak a bit in fresh water 
when wanted ; or it may be left wet in the salt and 
water. 

850. A Cream Cheese. 

Dip a cheese-cloth in salt and water ; take the thickest 
cream you have ; lay it in a shape (which should be 
square) ; pour the cream in, and leave it untouched one 
day ; then turn it on to a dry cloth, and put a weight of 
four pounds on it ; change the dry cloth once more. 
On the third day it is ready to eat. 



300 DAIllY— CHEESF, BUTTEE, ETC. 



851. Irish Creaim Cheese. 

Let twelve quarts of new milk stand two or three days 
until it is quite thick ; skim it, and tie up the cream in 
a linen cloth wet with salt and water ; hang it up to 
drain ; when it has done dripping, open the cloth and 
put the cheese on a deep plate, with a wet cloth under it, 
arranged so that you can turn the cheese till it is dry ; then 
put it on another plate without a cloth, and cover it with 
nettles fresh every day till you think it fit for use. In 
warm weather the cream thickens and the cheese ripens 
quicker than in cold. This is particularly good. 



S52. Cream for Butter 

Should he kept constantly stirred — /. e. three or four 
times a-day — and changed from one tub to another every 
day. To prevent milk or butter tasting of turnips or 
cabbages, the best way is to pour a quart of boiling- 
water on two ounces of saltpetre ; when dissolved and 
cold, bottle and cork it for use ; put two large spoonfuls 
of this to every four gallons of milk immediately it is 
brought in, stirring it well ; a piece of saltpetre about 
the size of a walnut may also be put in the cream - 
pot, and stirred at least once a-day. This method, if 
regularly attended to, has been found very effectual ; 
but turnips should never be given to milking-cows raw. 
If steamed with hay they impart a much less disagree- 
able flavour to the milk. Charcoal put into the milk- 
pan is said to be a good remedy. 



DAIRY — CIIEESK, BUTTER, ETC. 307 



853. To KEEP Cream. 

Mix with any quantity of good cream half its weight of 
finely-powdered lump-sugar ; stir it together, and put it 
into bottles, closely corked, and tied down. It is said 
to keep good six or eight months. 

854. A Cream Cheese for Ijnbiediate Use. 

Skim a pint of thick cream ; let it stand twelve hours ; 
add a little salt to it ; dip a napkin in salt and water ; 
fold it four times double ; pour the cream into it, and 
hang it up for twelve hours to drain ; lay it on a plate ; 
cover it with nettles or vine-leaves ; put a plate on the 
top, and it is fit to eat next day. It may also be made 
in the same way in the morning, and 'eaten that night at 
dinner ; but then you put no nettles on it, and serve as 
soon as made. 

855. Curds and Cream. 

Take a pint of new milk, and half a pint of cream ; warm 
them together with a spoonful of rennet ; cover the pan 
w4th a cloth wrung out in cold water till the curd is set, 
then gather it ; lay it on rushes till all the whey has run 
out. Serve in a bowl with cream poured over it. 

85G. Crea^i Curds. 

Take a quart of cream and six eggs, mix them well to- 
gether ; set on the fire to boil in a pan, three quarts of 
water with a little salt in it ; when it boils jDut in a 
tablespoonful of vinegar, or a pint of thick sour butter- 



308 DAIEY — CHEESE, BUTTER, ETC. 

milk ; then stir in the eggs and cream, and as the curd 
rises keep sprinkhng in a little cold water with your 
hand. When sufficiently risen take it ofi the fire ; let it 
stand a little ; lay a wet cloth on a sieve or colander ; 
skim the curds on to it, put them in a cool place ; next 
day turn them on to a dish, and they are ready to serve 
and excellent to eat. 

857. Galling Cueds and Whey as in Italy. 

Take a number of the rough coats that line the gizzards 
of turkeys and fowls ; clean them from what they 
contain, rub them well with salt, and hang them to dry; 
when used break off some bits and put over them some 
boiling water ; in eight or nine hours use this liquor as 
you do other rennet. It makes a much more delicate 
curd. Put three or four pints of milk into a pan, make 
it a little warm, and add some of the Gallino liquor ; 
when the curd is come, put it with a saucer into a china 
basin, filling it up as the whey runs from it without 
breaking or pressing the curd ; if done only two hours 
before it is wanted it is very light and good. 

858. Devonshire Cream. 

Let the milk stand twenty-four hours ; then put the pan 
on a warm hearth, where it must remain till the milk is 
quite hot, but on no account let it boil, as it would spoil 
the whole ; you may judge when it is enough scalded as 
a ring will form in the cream round the pan the size of 
the bottom of it ; then remove the pan into the dairy 
and skim it next day. Observe that the fire should be 
slow, and in summer the milk, previous to scalding, need 



DAIIIY — CHEESE, BUTTEK, ETC. 300 

not stand more than sixteen hours. Butter made of this 
cream is excellent, and in Devonshire it is usual to do so. 

859. Devonshire Curd. 
Put ■warm milk into a bowl ; turn it with a bit of rennet ; 
then put some of the above scalded cream, a little sugar 
and cinnamon on the top, taking care not to break the 
curd. 

860. Clotted Cream. 

The milk which is put into the pan one morning is to 
stand till the next : then set the pan (which is best of 
brass like a preserving pan) on a hot hearth, or in a 
copper tray full of water ; put this on a stove for from ten 
to twenty minutes, according to the quantity of milk and 
the size of the pan. When bladders rise on the surface 
you will know it is near boiling — when it is enough 
done, and must instantly be removed and the pan placed 
in the dairy till next morning, when it may be skimmed, 
and is ready for use to eat plain with fruit, etc., or it may 
be made into butter. 

861. An Irish Receipt to Salt Butter. 

To one pound of common salt add one pound of salt- 
petre and a quarter of a pound of white sugar ; pound 
all these together, and mix them well, and to every 
pound of butter allow one ounce of this mixture ; make 
it fresh as you want it, observing to be very careful 
always to keep the same proportions, and to mix the 
ingredients thoroughly. The butter shoidd stand for a 
month before you use it. 



310 DAIKY — CHEESE, BUTTEK, ETC. 

862. To Purify Salt for Making Salt Butter. 

To one gallon of sweet whey add fifty-six pounds of salt 
dissolved in warm water ; set this on to boil ; when it 
begins boiling, keep constantly skimming it ; after no 
more scum appears, boil it down, decreasing the fire 
towards the end that it may boil very slowly, and the 
salt fall to the bottom in large crystals, when it is to be 
raked out ; continue this till only about two quarts of 
liquid are left, which may be saved for the next refining. 
To prove if the salt is pure, add about half a teaspoonful 
of hartshorn to some of it. If the mixture becomes 
turbid, it is still impure ; if it remains clear, it is all right. 

8G3. To Salt Butter. 

Take sixteen ounces of this purified salt, four ounces of 
white sugar, and an ounce of saltpetre ; pound and mix 
well together. The proportion of this to be mixed with 
the butter is one ounce to the pound. 

864. To Make Salt Butter Fresil 

To every pound of butter allow one quart of new milk ; 
churn them . well together, and in about an hour take 
out the butter, and, treat it exactly as fresh butter, 
making it up in water, and adding the usual quantity of 
salt. The butter gains in weight about three ounces to 
the pound, and is as good as fresh. 

865. Milk-and-Water Cheese. 

To every three parts of milk, fresh from the cow, take 
one of water ; make the water hot enough to warm the 



I) AIIIY— CHEESE, BUTTEK, ETC. 31 1 

milk sufficiently for the rennet ; but the colder curd is 
made the better, the whey runs from it quicker and 
purer ; the water keeps in all the richness of the milk. 
When the curd is formed, break it as little as possible ; 
salt it on the outside ; change the cheese-cloth round it 
three times a-day ; put it for two days in the press, but 
with little weight on it ; then lay it to ripen on vine or 
nettle leaves, turning it night and morning for ten days 
or a fortnight, when it will be fit for use. It will not 
keep many weeks, but is an excellent cheese, and very 
rick 

866. A Scotch Cheese. 

To four Scotch pints of milk, new from the cow, add 
one Scotch pint of cream ; put to this only just enough 
rennet to make a curd that will break well ; press it, 
and treat it as usual. If made in summer, it is fit to 
eat by winter. It is an admirable cheese, similar to a 
Bath cheese. 

8G7. An Excellent Cheese. 

One-half butter milk, one-half sweet milk ; the one fresh 
from the churn, the other hot from the cow. To be 
kept about a twelvemonth, when it will be of a fine 
gi-een mould, and eat like Stilton. 

86S. A EouND Cheese. 

Take twenty pints of sweet milk, fresh from the cow ; 
add to it two pints of cream, and to the whole a gill of 
rennet ; when the whey is taken off, put half a pound 
of salt among the curd ; tie it up in a cloth, and Jiang it 



312 DAIRY — CHEESE, BUTTER, ETC. 

to drip, changing the cloth every day for eight days ; 
after which put it into a vat, and press it. 

869. Parmesan Cheese, as made at Lodi. 

The milk is to be skimmed once, l3oiled, and coagulated with 
rennet in the usual manner. When the curd is completely 
formed (which takes from one to three hours, according 
to the weather) it is then to be broken in pieces with 
two different machines, — one a flat board, the other 
the same shape and size, but made of wire. By striking 
the curd against these machines it is broken into very 
small pieces ; when this is done the curd must be salted, 
and immediately put into the cheese-vat ; the only pres- 
sure to be used is a middle-sized stone laid on the 
boards, and that only for twelve hours. 

870. New Milk Cheese. 

Warm the milk to about the heat it has when drawn 
from the cow, add to it a sufficiency of rennet to turn it, 
and cover it over ; let it remain till well turned, then 
strike the curd well down with the skimming-dish, and 
let it separate, observing to keep it still covered ; as soon 
as the whe}^ is out salt it ; put the vat over the tub, and 
till it with curd, ^vliich must be squeezed close with the 
hand, and more added as it sinks ; fill up till it is about 
three inches above the edge of the vat ; draw the cheese- 
cloth (which should be laid in the bottom of the vat 
before the curd is put in) smoothly over on all sides ; 
put a board under and over the vat, which should have 
holes in the bottom ; put it in the press, and let it remain 
two hours ; turn it out, change the cheese-cloth, and press 



DAIRY — CHEESE, BUTTEE, ETC. 313 

again for ten hours ; turn it out again, salt it all over, 
return it to the vat to be pressed for twenty hours more, 
and it is done. Skim-milk cheese may be made in the 
same way. 

871. Bath Cheese. 

Take six quarts of new milk, two quarts of water, and 
one spoonful of rennet ; when the curd is formed, press 
it for four hours, then take it out, and rub into it four 
spoonfuls of salt ; put it again into the press for another 
four hours ; when taken out lay it on vine or nettle 
leaves, change these every day, and wipe the cheese with 
a clean cloth, and it will be ready in a fortnight. 

872. EusH Cream Cheese. 

Take a pint of very thick sour cream from the top of a 
pan set by for butter ; lay a napkin on two plates, and 
pour half into each ; let them stand twelve hours, then 
put them on a fresh napkin, wet in salt and water, on 
one plate, and cover with the other ; repeat this every 
twelve hours till the cheese begins to look dry; ripen it 
with nettle -leaves. It will be ready in ten days. Fresh 
nettles or two pewter plates ripen cream cheeses very 
well. 

873. Double Gloucester Cheese. 

To twenty-four pints of new milk add four pints of cream 
that has risen twelve hours ; warm them together in a 
milk-pail, by standing it in a boiler of hot water ; while 
warming add as much annotto as will give it a good 
colour, mixing well together ; put it then into a tub, and 
add the rennet as usual ; in separating the whey do not 
break the curd, but press it down with a flat dish ; when 



314 DAIEY — CHEESE, BUTTEU, ETC. 

that is done warm some of the whey, and when near 
boiling pour it over the curd, and let it stand a few 
minutes ; then mince the curd down with a mincing-knife, 
strain off the whey, and put it into a cheese-mould, and 
press as usual. When the cheese-cloth conies off it dry 
it is sufficiently pressed, and must then be rubbed every 
day for eight days with salt, and laid on a strainer, that 
the pickle may run oft". As the cheese dries its appear- 
ance is much improved by occasionally scraping the out- 
side, and rubbing it with butter. 

874. Stilton Cheese. 

Very early in the morning take the cream of five gallons 
of milk, and five gallons of milk hot from the cow ; mix 
the two well together, and add as much boiling water as 
will make the whole of the proper warmth for the curd 
to come ; then add the rennet, but as weak as possible, 
for if it is strong it makes the cheese crumble ; lay a wet 
napkin over the sieve, and if, as sometimes happens, the 
cream lias risen to the top, take this curd off first and lay 
it on one side, being careful not to break it ; then take up 
with a skimmer the rest of the curd ; lay it on the sieve 
also without breaking ; put the cream curd over it in 
order that it may be well mixed, otherwise the cheese 
will be rich in one place and poor in another. When the 
whey is strained from it, tie the curd up in the napkin 
and hang it up till it gives over dripping ; now cut the 
curd in pieces and lay it for half an hour in as much 
fresh water as will cover it ; then take out one-half and 
put it in a cheese-hoop, strewing a little salt over it ; 
put the other half on the toj:), breaking it a little so 



DAIiJY — CHEESE, BUTTER, ETC. 315 

as t(') make tliem join well, and lay a small weight 
upon it. Care must be taken that it is not heavy enough 
to make the whey run white. It must be turned every 
hour during the day upside down on to a clean wet cloth, 
keeping the slight weight on it ; next morning lay it on 
salt for twenty-four hours, then SAvathe it tight in l)and- 
ages, which must be clianged, and the cheese wiped and 
turned every day, and covered with a cloth for a consider- 
able-time till it dries and ripens. The cheese may be 
made to any size ; and the best season is in August, 
September, or October, if the weather is dry. 



VAUIOUS RECEIPTS FOE MAKING 
COFFEE. 

875. COFEEE. 

The best kind is Moclia, but Java is also good, and a 
mixture of the two makes excellent coffee. It is always 
best to buy it raw, and roast and grind it yourself as you 
want. It should not be too much roasted, as it makes it 
bitter ; and not more than a week before it is used, 
as it loses its flavour ; it ought also always to be ground 
fresh just before using. A great secret in making good 
coffee is to use plenty in proportion to the quantity of 
water, at least one cupful of coffee to every two of 
water. It should never be allowed to boil, as it gives it 
a coarse bitter taste. There are now an endless variety 
of coffee-pots for making coffee, but the simplest are 
always the best. The usual French coffee-pot is made in 
two parts, fitting closely into one another ; the bottom 
of the upper part is perforated with small holes, and it 
contains two movable metal strainers ; on the under one 
tJie coffee is placed, and boiling water poured on it 
through the upper one ; the lid is then closely shut down, 
and the pot placed by the fire till it all strained through, 
and clear. A still simpler pot, and one which makes 
excellent coffee, is a tin pot, in which is suspended a 



VAKIOUS ILi:CEIPTS FOK MAKING COFFEE. 317 

strong linen bag, sewn to a ring which fits into the top 
of the pot ; the cofiee is placed in the bag, which is 
shaped like a funnel, and boiling water poured over it ; 
it runs through quite clear. Care should be taken to 
scald the bag every time it is used. Many prefer the 
bag to be made of flannel, or use both — one inside 
the other, the first being made rather shorter. In 
Germany I have seen a very ingenious coffee-machine 
for making coffee yourself in the drawing-room. It 
consists of two vases, one of glass and the other of 
china ; the latter is stopped close with a cork at 
the top, and is provided with a tap to draw the 
coffee off' ; the two are connected with a syphon, which 
passes into both, and the end in the glass vase is fitted 
with a fine strainer ; a balancing weight is also attached 
on the side of the glass vase. The requisite quantity of 
coffee is placed in the glass, the water in the china vase ; 
a lamp is then lit under the latter ; as the water boils, 
the pressure of the confined steam forces the water up 
the syphon and into the glass vase ; as the water as- 
cends, the Aveight being removed from the china vase, it 
rises, and the lamp underneath, which is also pro- 
vided with a cover and a balancing weight, is ex- 
tinguished by the cover falling on it ; at the same time 
the strainer at the end of the syphon descends and 
presses the coffee down, the water forces itself through 
the coffee, and bubbles up in the glass. The atmospheric 
air now meets it coming through the hole down which 
the syphon passes, and forces the coffee back into the 
china vase, which, as the weight falls into it, again de- 
scends into its original place, and the coffee is ready to 
be drawn off clear and good. It may be passed in this 



318 VAEIOUS RECEIPTS FOR MAKING COFFEE. 

way twice to make it stronger, but it is better if enough 
coffee is put in to make it strong enough with once pass- 
ing. This scientific and pretty little machine has, how- 
ever, the slight objection that it is apt to explode, if at 
least great care is not taken that no obstruction occurs 
in the pipe of the syphon. 

876. To MAKE Coffee as at Paris. 

The coffee-berries should be more roasted than is gener- 
ally the case in England, and the fresher they are 
roasted the better ; in any case they should not be kept 
longer than a week, and never ground longer than an 
hour before the coffee is prepared. The powder is to 
be placed in the ordinary French coffee-pot, in the propor- 
tion of half an ounce to every good-sized cupful of water, 
which should be poured in a hoiling state on the coffee. 
^The coffee-pot is then to be placed near the fire in such 
a way as to keep it very hot, but under the boiling- 
point ; so that all the strength is brought out, but the 
aroma not carried off. It is usually kept thus for two 
hours, and then gently poured into the coffee-pot in 
which it is to be served. Many persons prefer an addi- 
tion of chicory-powder, which should be in the propor- 
tion of a teas^^oonful to the ounce of coffee. 

877. To ]\iake Good Coffee. 

Take one pound of fresh-ground Mocha coffee ; put it 
into a saucepan with three quarts of water ; set it on 
the stove, and whisk it till it comes to a boil ; draw the 
pan to the side of the fire, and let it simmer gently for 
then throw into it a larcre tumblerful of 



VARIOUS RECEIPTS FOR MAKING COFFEE. 319 

cold water, in which you have dissolved a quarter of an 
ounce of isinglass ; this is to clarify it ; let it simmer a 
minute or two longer, and take the pan from the fire ; 
let it stand half an hour to settle ; then you can pour 
the coffee off clear and fit for use. It is better made a 
day before, and when wanted heated in a bain-marie — 
i.e. by putting the coffee-pot into boiling water. Great 
care must be taken that the coifee itself does not boil, 
as it makes it bitter. 

878. Coffee Milk. 

Boil two ounces of well and fresh ground coffee in a 
pint of milk for twenty minutes ; put in two or three 
shavings of isinglass to clear it ; let it boil a few minutes 
longer ; set it aside till it fines, and sweeten it to 
taste. 



820 



PEPPER POT. 



This soup, wliioh is of AVest Indian origin, sliuulcl be 
made in an earthen pot, which ahvays remains by the 
side of the fire, where the contents simmer but do not 
boil These should consist of an equal admixture of 
fish, flesh, fowl, and vegetables, seasoned with chilis or 
Cayenne pepper and salt, — the only attention it 
requires being occasional skimming and the addition of 
a little water when it gets too dry. Anything and 
everything may be put into it ; and as it should at all 
times be simmering by the fire, a good meal is always 
ready for any guest that may chance to come uninvited. 



INDEX. 



Ale, herb, 263 
Allemaude sauce, 35 
Almond cheese-cakes, 196 

cups, 216 

paste, 216 

pastry, 211 
Anchovy salad, 156 

toast, 172 
Appetissante sauce, 47 
Apple cakes, 213 

ginger, 270 

jelly, 221 

jelly, to preserve, 282 

pudding, 187 

sauce, 42 

water, 301 
Apples with creani, 214 

with jelly, 215 

with rice meringue, 215 
Apricot compote, 280 

jam, 280 

paste, 281 

pudding, 189 
Apricots, ratafia of, 254 

to preserve, 279 
Arrowroot, to make, 296 

pudding, 177 

sauce, 209 
Artichoke bottoms au blanc, 149 

a la creme, 148 

Jerusalem, 149 
Asparagus a la creme, 145 

au jus, 146 

to boil, 146 
Aspic, 97 

of fillets of chicken, 96 



Baba, 201 

Balbimie salad sauce, 28 

sauce for cold pheasant, 20 
Balloon cakes, 248 
Barberry water-ice, 231 
Barley gruel, 298 

meal scones, 248 

water, clear, 299 
thick, 298 
Bam break (Irish), 241 
Bath cakes, 240 
Batter pudding, 180 

baked, 180 
Beans, broad, au jus, 135 

FrcQch, a la poulette, 135. 
stewed, 135 

white, k la maitre d'hStel, 
134 
Becassines, salmi de, 103 
Bechamel, or white sauce, 34 
Beef, a la vinaigrette, 91 

round of, baked, 79 

bouilli, 80 

broth, 5 

collared, 81 

dressed to eat cold, 82 

Dutch, 81 

en papillotes, 83 

en saucissons, 83 

sausages, 126 

sportsman's, 80 

steaks, to cook, 86 
relishing, 87 

tea, 287, 288 ' 

to boil, 80 

to salt, 79 



322 



INDEX. 



Beer cup, 256 

ginger, 262 
white spruce, 263 
Beetroot, fricassee of, 151 

stewed, 151 

and small onions, to dress 
with a sauce piquante, 151 
Beignets d'abricots, 203 

de fraises, 202 

de groseilles, 203 

d'orange, 202 

de peches au vin du Rhin, 
202 

de pomines a la Bavarie, 201 

en surprise, 203 
Beurre de Montpellier, 

noir, for skate, etc., 54 
Biscuits, a la cuilliere, 250 

gooseberry, 2S4 

Marathon, 251 

Naples, 249 

orange, 275 

paste, 211 

potato, 251 

sugar, 249 
Black puddings, 125 
Blanquette of veal a la Paysanne, 

115 
Bloaters, Yarmouth, to cook, 73 
Boudins of rabbit, 114 
Bouillabaise a I'Anglaise, 19 

a Marseilles receipt, IS 
Brandy butter sauce for plum- 
pudding, 208 

cherries, 277 

cheny, 253 

currant, 253 

mixture, 303 

orange, 252 

punch, 259 
Bread, aerated, 238 
Bread and butter pudding, 180 

berry, 294 

brown, ice-cream, 232 

cake, 244 

excellent, 237 

a plain loaf of, 237 

panada, 294 

pxidding, 181 



Bread sauce, 42, 43 

to make brown, 237 
to make fine, 236 
very fine, 238 
Breakfast cakes, 240 
Brioche, 244 
Broth, beef, 5 

calves' feet, 288 
chicken, 289 
clear, or English, 5 
Scotch mutton, 2 
sheep's head, 3 
Sir Robert Preston's, 3 
sportsman's, 10 
veal, a very nourishing, 
288 
Brussels sprouts au jus, 141 
Buns, 241 
Burnt cream, 214 
Butter, melted, 51 

salt, to make fresh, 310 
salt, to purify salt for 

making, 310 
sauce, a la maltre d'hotel, 
25 
anchovy, 26 
Montpelliei-, 26 
pimento, 26 
shallot, 26 
to salt, 310 

to salt, an Irish receipt, 309 
Buttered eggs, 161 

Cabbage a la bourgeoise, 140 

en sur]Drise, 140 

lettuce, to stew, 143 

red, a Dutch receipt for, 
141 

red, to stew, 141 
Cabinet pudding, 187 
Cakes, balloon, 248 

Bath, 240 

breakfast, 200 

Cheltenham, 240 

ginger, 247 

luncheon, 251 

oat, 247 

rice, 247 

Savoy biscuit or, 243 



INDEX. 



323 



Cakes, sponge, 249 

short, 250 

Yorksliire, 248 
Calves' feet pie (Scotch), 119 

foot jelly, 217 

head pie (Scotch), 119 

feet broth, 288 
Camp vinegar, 30 
Canapes, 170 
Canard a la Beamoise, 102 

a la puree verte, 103 
Caparata, 123 
Capres sauce for fish, 53 
Caramel cream, 227 
Carp, matelote of, 62 

sauce for, 49 
Carrots a I'Allemande, 1C7 

au jus, 136 

mashed, 136 

au Sucre, 136 

to stew, 136 
Casserolles of rice, 120 
Caudle, 295 
Cauliflower a la bechamel, 11 5 

au gratin, 143 • 

stewed, 142 
Celery sauce, 45 

soup, 13 

stewed, 145 

a la creme, 145 
Chaud-froid en salade, 153 
Char, potted, 77 
Charlotte de pommes aux abricots, 

217 
Chartreuse of vegetables, 139 
Cheese, a cream, 305 

for immediate use, 307 

and ale, 169 

a round, 311 

a Scotch, 311 

an excellent, 311 

baked, 167 

Bath, 313 

boiled, 166 

double Gloucester, 313 

gooseberry, 284 
Irish cream, 306 

lemon, 224 
milk-and-water, 310 



Cheese, new milk, 312 

Parmesan, as made at Lodi, 
312 

rush cream, 313 

stewed, 167 

Stilton, 314 

straws, 169 

toasts, 167 

with eggs, 166 

cakes, 195 

almond, 196 
curd, 196 
lemon, 196 
orange, 196 
Cherries, brandy, 277 

for drying, to preserve, 277 
CheiTy brandy, 253 

jelly, 219 

water ice, 230 
Cheltenham cakes, 240 
Chicken broth, 289 

capilotade of, 95 

cold minced, aux fines 
herbes, 96 

fricassee of, 93, 94 

panada, 294 

pie aux feuilletages, 116 

quenelles of, 114 

salad with cucumbers, 157 

tea, 289 

cold, to dress, 96 
Chocolate cream-ice, 233 
Chou a la bourgeoise, 140 

en surprise, 140 
Choufleurs a la bechamel, 1 43 

au gratin, 143 
Chutnee sauce, 29 
Citron pudding, 190 
Cider cup, 256 
Clai'et cup, 256 
Clotted cream, 309 
Clouted cream, 227 
Cock-a-leekie, 13 
Cod a la creme, 67 

curry, 75 

pie, 72 
Cod's-head soup, 16 
Cofi"ee, 316 

cream, 225 



324 



INDEX. 



Coffee ice, 232 

milk, 319 

to make as at Paris, 318 

to make good, 318 
Colcannon, 141 
Cold chicken, to dress, 96 

game, to dress, 96 

minced chicken, aux fines 
herhes, 96 

punch, 257 

veal, to dress, 96 
College pudding, 182 
Collops, hare, 123 

minced (Scotch), 123 
Cordial for an invalid, 304 

for the weak, 304 
Crab au gratin, 74 

salad, 157 
Cream, burnt, 214 

caramel, 227 

cheese for immediate use, 
307 

clotted, 309 

clouted, 227 

coffee, 226 

curds, 307 

currant, 226 

Devonshire, 303 

Dutch, 223 

Flemish, 222 

for butter, 306 

Italian, 223 

mille fruit, 227 

orange, 225 

orange-flower, 227 

pine-apple, 225 

raspberry, 226 

sack, 226 

souffle, 191 

strawberry, 226 

to keep, 307 

velvet, 228 
Creme, frangipane, 199 

au gelee, 222 

patissiere, 199 

au the vert, 226 
Cringles, 242 

Croquettes de riz k la fleur d' orange, 
205 



Croutons aux rognons, 172 
Crumpets, 242 
Crystallised fruit, 279 
Cucumbers and onions, 147 

stewed, 148 

to preserve, 269 
Cullis, or brown sauce, 31 
Cup, beer, 256 
cider, 256 
claret, 256 
lemon, 301 
Curagoa, 252 
Curd cheese-cakes, 196 
Curds and cream, 307 

whey, gaUino, as in Italy, 
308 
Currant brandy, 253 

cream, 225 

jelly, to make, 271 

jelly, black, 276 
white, 276 

red, water-ice, 232 

syrup, black, 277 
Currants, to preserve, 268 
Currant wine, 260 
Curried eggs, 164 
Curry, the admiral's, 108 

the baronet's. 111 

the general's, 109 

powder, 110, 112 

the professor's, 110 

Bengal, 110 

sauce, 45 

a wet, 109 
Custard ice-cream, 233 

pudding, 177 

baked, 177 

sauce for puddings, 208 

tart, 212 
Cutlets, mutton, aux concombres, 
88 

en rob de chambre, 86 

a la mariniere, 86 

relishing, 87 

veal, 116 

Dampfnudel (Bavarian), 207 
Devonshire cheese, 308 
curd, 308 



IKDEX. 



325 



Dried fruils, 268 

Drink for a cough, an excellent, 
302 

for a fever, 302 

imperial, 302 
Duck a la Bearnoise, 1 02 

a puree verte, 103 

ragoiit, 103 

salmi, 104 

wild, sauce for, 41 
Dunnikier orange pudding, 188 
Dusselle saiice, 37 
Dutch cream, 223 

flummery, 247 

sauce for cold meat, 21 
for tish, 50 

EcHAUDiEs, des, 244 
Eels, matelote of, 62 

a la poulette, 60 

spitchcocked, 61 

a la Tartare, 61 
Egg-cheese, 191 
cordial, 303 
sauce for fish, 52 
vermicelli (Flamande), 162 
Eggs a la bonne femme, 101 

au bouillon, 164 

au soleil, 163 

buttex'ed, 161 

curried, 164 

en caisse, 162 

with cheese, 166 

farcies, 164 

en fricassee, 164 

fried, 165 

and ham, 162 

a la neige, 198 

a la Provencale, 162 

en puree, 165 

sur le plat, 165 

timbales of, au jus de per- 
drix, 163 

with truffles, 166 
Endive, to stew, 144 
Espagnole sauce, 36 

Fastnacht Krapfen, 216 
Fig pudding, 181 



Filets de macqeraux, 67 

de Lievre en poivrade, 113 
Fillets of turkey, 101 
Fish pie, 72 

pudding, 72 

sauce, to keep, 29, 30 

without butter, 48 

soup (Scotch), 17 

soup, stock for, 15 
Flemish cream, 222 
Flounders, 62 
Flummery, 297 

Dutch, 297 

rich, 298 
Fondu, 168 

Fowl scollops a I'essence de con- 
combres, 98 

soup or jelly, 293 
Frangipane, 212 

creme, 189 
Friar's chicken, thick, 7 
clear, 8 
Fricassee of beetroot, 151 

of chicken, 93 

of eggs, 164 
Fritters, apple, 201 

apricot, 203 

currant, 203 

en surprise, 203 

orange, 202 

peach, 202 

Prussian, 204 

rice, 205 

Spanish, 204 

straAvbeny, 202 
Fromage cuit, 167 
Fruits, crystallised, 279 

dried, 268 
Furmity, 297 

Galling curds and whey as in 

Italy, 308 
Game, cold, to dress, 96 

to roast, 107 
Gateau a la reine, 200 

au riz, 175 

aux pistaches, 199 

de nouilles, 175 

de pommes, 213 



32G 



INDEX. 



Gateau Napolitaine a la Cliantilly, 

200 
Genoises Glace a I'ltalienne, 200 
German omelette, 160 

puddhisc sauce, 20 S 

puffs, 206 

rolls, 243 

salad, ]56 

sauce, 23 

sauce, 25 
Ginger-apple, 270 

beer, 262 

cakes, 247 

cream ice, 234 

pop, 262 

pudding, 187 

to imitate, 270 

wine, 260 
Gingerbread honeycomb, 243 

loaf, 245 

Nuremburg, 245 

nuts, 246 

without butter, 246 
Glasgow punch, 258 
Gloucester jellies, 292 
Godiveau, or veal forcemeat, 127 
Gooseberry biscuits, 284 

cheese, 284 

jam, 283 

jelly, 283 ^ 

pudding, 189 

to preserve, 268 

wine, green, 261 
Grape water-ice, 231 
Gravy, brown, for sauces, 34 

for game or fowl, 44 
of veal, clear, for sauces, 33 
Green sauce for boiled chicken, 44 ; 

for ducklings, 42 
Greengages in brandy, 278 

to preserve, 278 
Grill, sauce for, 48 
Grillon sauce, 50 
Grit gruel, 295 
Grouse salad, 105 

salmi, 101 

to roast, 107 

sauce, 22 
Gruel, barley, 298 



Gruel, grit, 295 

oatmeal, 295 
Gunner's delight, 30 

Hach^b sauce, 37 

Haddocks a la maitre d'hotel, 53 

aux capres, 58 

rizard, 73 

with brown sauce (Scotch) 
57 
Haggis, 122 
Ham and eggs, 162 

sauce, 36 
Hanoverian sauce, 20 
Hare collops, 123 

filets en poivrade, 113 

hashed or stewed, 113 

jugged, 102 

pie (Scotch), 118 

soup, 9 

to dress, 85 
Haricots a la Bretonne, 133 

blancs au jus, 134 
Hartshorn jelly, 292 
Hasty pudding, 181 
Herb ale, 263 
Herrings, baked, 70 

boiled, 71 

in a crust, 71 

pickled, 71 

red, 74 

red, a la Bruxelloise, 73 
Hollandaise sauce (a real Dutch 

receipt), 50 
Horseradish sauce, 47 
Hotcli potch, 4 

Ice, barberry water, 231 
cherry water, 230 
coffee, 232 
cream, bro^wm bread, 232 

China orange, 234 

chocolate, 233 

custard, 233 

ginger, 234 

green tea, 232 

orange-flower, 234 

plain, 232 

pine-apple, 233 



INDEX. 



327 



Ice, cream, pine-apple jam, 233 
ratafia "biscuit, 233 

Frontignac grape-water, 231 

lemon-water, 231 

noyeau-water, 230 

orange-Avater, 230 

peach-water, 229 

pine-apple water, 230 

punch, 231 

red-currant water, 231 

strawberry water, 229 

to clarify sugar for, 220 
Ices, to freeze, 228 
Iceland moss jelly, 292 
Indian sandwiches, 171 

sauce, 24 
Irish stew, 88 
Isinglass, clarified, 218 
Italian cream, 223 

sauce, 38 
Italienne sauce for fish, 52 
Ivory-dust jelly, 292 

Jam, gooseberry, 283 

pine-apple, 281 

raspberry, 282 
Jellies for the sick and poor, ^UO 
Jelly, apple, 221 

black currant, 276 

cake, to make to keep, 291 

calf's foot, 217 

cherry, 219 

currant, to make, 271 . 

Gloucester, 292 

gooseberry, 283 

hartshorn, 292 

Iceland moss, 292 

ivory-dust, 292 

orange, 220 

of orange-flowers and cham- 
pagne, 218 

orange sponge, 220 

pine-apple, 219, 281 

pine-apple, to preserve, 281 

punch, 218 

raspberry, 221 

red strawberry, 221 

sponge, 218 

without boiling, to make, 271 



Jelly, white currant, 276 v 

with cream, 222 

and miroton of peaches, 222 
John Dorey, sauce for, 53 

Kedgeree, 76 
Kidneys, 121 

a la brochette, 122 

saute, 122 

veal, 172 

Lait de poiile, 304 

Lamb chops a la Boulangere, 87 

a I'Africaine, 89 

au feu, 87 
Lamb's-head stove, 89 

and fry, 89 
Lapereaux aux fines herbes, 107 
Lark pie, 118 
Larks en ragout, 121 
Laver, 153 
Lemonade, 301 
Lemon cheese, 224 

cheesecakes, 196 

cup, 301 

custard pudding, 179 

liqueur, 252 

pudding, 187, 188 

pufls, 206 

sauce for boiled fowl or 
rabbit, 42 

water ice, 231 

whey, 302 
Lentilles soup, 12 
Linseed drink, 303 
Loaf, a diet, 245 

a gingerbread, 245 
Lobster au gratin, 74 
curry, 75 
salad, 156 
sauce, 49 
Luncheon cake, 251 

Macaroni k la Napolitaine, 173 

pie, 116 

pudding, 179 
MacMoine, a Dutch, 140 
Macedoine of vegetables, 139 
Mackerel a I'ltalienne, 65 

a la maltre d' hotel, 66 



328 



INDEX. 



Mackerel fillets, 67 

pickled, 71 
Madaleine cakes, 211 
Maigre soup, 13 

white, 14 
Maitrank, 266 
Maitre d'hStel maigre, 38 

sauce, 38 

sauce for fish, 54 
Marathon biscuits, 251 
Marmalade, chip, 274 

Mrs. Kay's, 273 

of the whole orange, 274 

pine-apple, 281 

pudding, 183 

smooth, 272 
Marrow pudding, 183 
Mayonnaise sauce, 24, 25 
Melton-Mowbray soup, 16 
Meringuee riz, 190 
Milk-and-water cheese, 310 
Milk-whey, clarified, 361 
Mille fruit cream, 227 
Mince pies, 185 
Minced collops, 123 

sandwiches, 172 
Monday pudding, 185 
Moorfowl soup, 11 
Morels in cream, 156 
Mouton emince, 90 

langues de, 90 

queues de, 90 

tourte de cotelettes de, k la 
Perigord, 92 
Muffins, 241, 242 
Muffin puddmg, 186 
Mulled wine, 259 
Mulligatawny soup, 11 
Mushroom gravy, 47 
ketchup, 31 
toasts, 153 
Mushrooms a la creme, 154 

farcie, 154 

grilled, 153 

ragout of, 154 
Mustard sauce, 24 
]\[utton broth, 2 

Sir Robert Preston's, 3 

chops, to cook, 86 



Mutton chops au feu, 87 

cutlets aux concombres, 88 
cutlets a la mariniere, 86 
cutlets en robe de chambre, 

86 
hashed, a la Nell Gwynne, 

91 
hashed, 91, 92 
haunch, to eat like venison, 

84 
leg of, a la Perigord, 84 
shoulder of, marinade, 84 

Naples biscuits, 249 
Newcastle sauce for fish, 52 
Noyeau, 254 

water-ice, 231 
Nuremburg punch, 257 

Oat-cakes, 247 
Oatmeal gruel, 295 

water, 299 
(Eufs a la Neige, 193 

au bouillon, 164 

au fromage, 106 

au soleil, 163 

aux truff"es, 166 

en fricassee, 164 

en puree, 165 

farcie, 164 

sauce aux (^Flamande), 52 

sur le plat, 165 
Omelette, 160 

a very light, 160 

aux fines herbes, 161 

German, 160 

souffle, 193 

sweet, 191 
Onion sauce, 44 
Onions and cucumbers, 147 

stewed, 142 

to boil, 142 
Orange biscuits, 275 

brandy, 252 

cheesecakes, 116 

cream, 225 

cream ice, 233 

flowers and champagne 
jelly, 218 



INDEX. 



329 



Orange-flower cream, 226 

ice, 233 

jelly, 220 

jelly to preserve, 273 

pudding, 188 

sponge jelly, 220 

tart, 213 

syinip, 274 

Avaterice, 230 
Oranges, sliced, 275 
Orgeat, fresh, or almond milk, 300 

of MontpeUier, 299 

Failles an Parmesan, or cheese 

straws, 169 
Panada, bread, 294 

chicken, 294 
Pancakes, 193 

English, 194 

French, 194 

rice, 195 
Parmesan cheese as made at Lodi, 

312 
Parsnips, mashed, 137 
Partan pie, 75 
Partridge pie, 117 

salmi, 101, 105 

soup or jelly, 293 

stewed, 289 

old, to stew, 101 
Paste biscuit, 211 

crisp for tarts, 210 

to fry, 198 

for linmg moulds or tim- 
bales, 210 

for raised pies, 210 
Pastry, almond, 211 
Pate afrire, 198 
Patissiere, creme, 199 
Patties, petits, 121 
Pea-soup, 287 
Peach water-ice, 229 
Peaches, jelly and miroton of, 222 
Peas a la crGme, 133 

a la Frangaise, 133 

soup, green, 13 

to stew, 132 

pudding, 133 
Pepper pot, 320 
Perch, boiled, 60 



Perdreaux au celery blanc, 92 

Mayonnaise de, 98 
Perigord pie, 117 
Pheasant soup or jelly, 243 
Pickle, American, 267 

for ham or tongues, 266 

Hamburg, 266 

Indian, 265 
Pickles, hot, 265 
Pie, calf's head (Scotch), 119 

calf's feet (Scotch), 119 

chicken, 120 

cod, 72 

fish, 72 

hare (Scotch), 113 

lark, 118 

mince, 185 

partan, 75 

perigord, 117 

pigeon, 120 

sheep's head (Scotch), IIS 
Pigeons a la Tai-tare, 100 
Piquante sauce, 20, 22, 37, 40 
Pike, farci, 63 
Pine-apple cream-ice, 233 

cream, preserved, 224 

in slices, 282 

jam, to presei-ve, 280 

jam ice, 233 

jelly, 219 

jelly, to preserve, 231 

marmalade, 281 

toasts, 204 

water ice, 230 
Pistaches, gateau aux, 199 
Pitcaithley bannock, 251 
Plum pudding, 184 

rich, 184 
Plums for tarts, to preserve, 2G9 
Plombit-re, 223 
Poivrade sauce, 43 

to keep, 24 
Pork sausages, 126 
Pork soup or jelly, 293 
Porridge, 296 
Portugal eggs, 197 

onions, stewed, 142 
Potato biscuits, 251 

chips, 132 



330 



INDEX. 



Potato fritters, 129 

salad (German), 132 

soup, 8, 9 

snow, 131 
Potatoes a la Lyonnaise, 130 

a la maitre d' hotel,- 130 

baked, 129 

broiled, 128 

fried mashed, 129 

mashed Cindian), 129 

roasted, 128 

to boil, 128 
Pot au feu, 1 
Poulets a I'estragon, 94 

a la Tartare, 101 

aux petits pois, 93 

matelotte de petits, 95 

salade de, aux coucombres, 
157 
Poulette sauce, 37 
Prince Eegent's punch, 259 
Provengale sauce, 20 
Prussian fritters, 204 
Pudding, apple, 189, 190 

apricot, 189 

arrowroot, 177 

batter, 180 

baked, 180 

black, 125 

bread, 181 

bread and butter, ISO 

cabinet, 187 

citron, 190 

college, 182 

custard, 177 

custard, baked, 177 

fig, 181 

ginger, 187 

gooseberry, 189 

ground-rice custard, 178 

hasty, 181 

in haste, 182 

lemon, 187, 188 

lemon custard, 179 

macaroni, 179 

marmalade, 183 

marrow, 183 

Monday, 185 

muffin, 186 



Pudding of fish, 72 

orange, 188 

orange, Dunnikier, 183 

pease, 133 

plum, 184 

rich, 184 

Queen Mab's (cold), 224 

ratafia, 186 

rice, without eggs, 176 

sauces, 208 

sago custard, 178 

Sir Watkin Wynne's, 183 

sponge cake, 182 

Sunday, 184 

tapioca, 176 

poor man's, 176 

Tedworth Albert, 182 

vermicelli, 179 

white, 125 

without eggs, 176 

Yorkshire, 181 
Puff pastry, to make, 209 
Puffs, German, 206 

lemon, 206 
Punch a la Romaine, 257 

as made at the Black Tavern, 
Bristol, 258 

brandy, 259 

cold, 257 

Glasgow, 258 

ice, 231 

jelly, 218 

Nuremburg, 257 

Prince Regent's, 259 

rum, 258 
Puree de navets, 138 

Queen Mab's pudding (cold), 234 
Quenelles auxtrufles, 114 
of chicken, 114 

Rabbits a la Provengale, 112 

boudins of, 114 

hashed or stewed, 113 
Racines a la creme, 138 

en menu droits, 138 
Ramequins, 168 

a la Sefton, 169 

souffle, 168 



INDEX. 



331 



Raspberry cream, 22G 
Raspberry jam, 283 

jelly, 221 

tart a la creme, 213 

vinegar, 261 

water, 300 
Ratafia biscuit ice-cream, 233 

d'abricots, 254 

de fleixrs d' orange, 255 

de fraraboises, 255 

des quatre fruits, 255 

pudding, 186 
Ravigote sauce, 23 
Ravioli a la Napolitaine, 173 
Relishing sauce, 40 
Reraoulade sauce, 25 
Rennet, to prepare, 305 
Rhubarb water, 301 
Rice cake, 247 

cakes, 206 

casserolles of, 120 

croquettes, 205 

fritters, 205 

ground, custard - pudding, 
178 

ground, milk, 29S 

meringue e, 190 

pancakes, 195 

pudding, without eggs, 176 

souffle, 192 

for curries, to boil, 108, 
109, 111, 112 
Roe-deer, to dress, 85 
Rognons, croutons aux, 172 

de bceuf, 121 
Rolls, French, 239 

German, 243 

to make fine, 236 
R6ties a la minime, 170 

aux epinards, 147 

d'anchois, 170 
Roux, or thickening for sauces, 32 
Royal sauce, 41 
Rum punch, 258 
Rumford soup, 285 
Rusks, 243 
Rusks (French), 243 

Sabajoxe sauce for puddings, 2C9 



Sabengou, 259 

Sack cream, 226 

Sago custard pudding, 178 

Sago milk for the poor, 286 

Salad a la Tartare, 158 

anchovy, 156 

boiled, 159 

endive, a la Fran^aise, 158 

German, 156 

lobster, 156 

lobster or crab, 157 

saxice, 27, 28 

(German), 28 

of grouse, 105 
Salade, chaudfroid en, 158 

de poidets aux concombres, 
157 
SaUy lunns, 239 
Salmagundi, 171 
Salmi a rancienne, 106 

chaud-froid, 105 

de becassines, 103 

de chasseur, 106 

of duck, 104 

of grouse or partridge, 101 

of partridge, 105 

of woodcock, 104 
Salmon au court boudlon, 67 

boiled as at Berwick, 68 

brailed, with a brown sauce, 
69 

broiled with a white sauce, 
68 

collops, 70 

dried, Yorkshire receipt to 
dress, 70 

en caisse, 69 

trout, sauce for, 52 

Irish pickle for, 70 

method of kijjpering, 78 

soup, 15 
Salad sauce, Balbimie, 28 
Salsifis en salade or aspic, 150 

fried, 150 
Sandwiches, Indian, 171 

minced, 172 
Sauce, a la grillon, 50 

a la ravigote, 23 

a la Tartare, 22, 23 



332 



INDEX. 



Sauce, ancliovy 'butter, 2G 
aux capres, 53 
aux oeul's (Flamande), 52 
Balbirnie, for cold pheasant, 

20 
Balbirnie salad, 28 
beurre a la maitre d'hutel, 

25 
beurre noir, 54 
Dutch, 50 
for carp, 49 
for cold game, 21 
Dutch, for cold meat, 21 
for cold meat or fish, 21 
for fillets of sole, 51, 53 
for grouse, 22 
for salmon trout, 52 
for turbot or John Dorey, 53 
German, for boiled beef, 23 
German salad, 28 
Hollandaise, 50 
Indian, 24 
Italienne, 52 
lobster, 49 
maitre d'hutel, 54 
Mayonnaise, 24, 25 
melted butter, 51 
mustard, 23 
Newcastle, 52 
oyster, 49 
piquante, 20, 22 
pimento butter, 26 
poivrade, to keep, 2 4 
Provengale, 20 
salad, 27, 28 
shallot butter, 26 
beurre de Montpellier, 20 
without butter, 48 
Sauce, cold, an excellent vinegar 

for salad, 31 
camp vinegar, 30 
chutnee, 29 
fish, 29, 30 
good, added to gi'avy for 

cutlets, 32 
gunner's delight, 30 
mushroom ketchup, 31 
shallot vinegar, 31 
Tarragon vinegar, 31 



Sauce, cold, tomato ketchup, 31 

to kee]i, useful for cold 

meat, etc., 29 

" volage," 30 
Sauce hot, a la Dusselle, 37 

a I'Espagnole, 36 

a la maitre d'hotel, 38 

a la marquise, 43 

a la reine, 41 

a la tripe, 46 

A Hem and e, 35 

appetissante, 47 

apple, 42 

au jus d'orange, 40 

au petit maitre, 43 

bechamel, or white, 3 4 

bread, 42, 43 

brown roux, 33 

brown gravy, 34 

celery, 45 

clear gravy of veal, 33 

curry, 45 

for a grill, 48 

for a steak, 46 

for teal, 41 

for veal cutlets, 46 

for venison, 48 

gravy for game or fowl, 44 

green, for boiled chicken, 44 

green, for ducklings, 42 

for wild ducks, 41 

hachee, 37 

ham, 36 

Hanoverian, 20 

horse-radish, 47 

Italian, 38 

lemon, for boiled fowl or 
rabbit, 42 

maitre d'hotel maigre, 38 

mushroom gravy, 47 

onion, 44 

piquante, 37, 40 

poivrade, 43 

poulette, 37 

puree of sorrel, 44 

relishing, for broiled bones, 
chicken, or fish, 40 

remoulade or vinaigi'ette, 25 

royal, 41 



INDEX. 



333 



Sauce, hot, Tarragon, 45 

tomato, 39 

toumee, 35 

tniffle, 38 

veloute, 35 

■white, for chicken, veal, or 
vegetables, 36 

white roux, 33 
Sauces lor fish, 48 
Sausages, beef, 126 

pork, 126 

veal, 126 
Savoy biscuit or cakes, 248 
Scollops of fowl a I'essence des 

concombres, 98 
Scones, barley-meal, 248 
Scotch fish soup, 17 
Seville orange syrup, 274 
Shallot vinegar, 31 
Sheep's head broth, 3 

pie (Scotch) 118 
and trotters, to pre- 
pare, 4 
Short cakes, 250 
Smelts aux anchois et capres, 60 

pickled, 71 
Sole, filets a I'orlie, 59 

sauce for, 51, 53 
Soles 4 la menuisiere, 64 

au gratin, 65 

saute a la ra^^gote, 64 
Sorrel sauce, 44 

stewed, 144 

to dress, 144 
Souffle, 191 

au riz, 192 

cream, 191 

de fecule de pomme de terre, 
192 

omelette, 193 

raniequins, 168 
Soup a la Flamande, 11 

a la Melton Mowbray, 16 

a la puree de lentilles, 12 

bouillabaise a I'Anglaise, 19 

bouillabalse, a Marseilles re- 
ceipt, 18 

cock-a-leekie, 6 

cod's head, 16 



Soup, fish (Scotch), 17 

for the poor, 285 

an excellent, 286 

a nourishing, 285 

fowl, 293 

friar's chicken, clear, 8 

friar's chicken, lie or thick, 
7 

hare, 9 

hotch-potch, 4 

knuckle of veal and rice, 8 

maigre, 13 

white, 14 

moorfowl, 11 

mulligatawny, 11 

oyster, 19 

puree of green peas, 13 

partridge or pheasant, 293 

pea, 259 

pork, 293 

pot au feu, 1 

potato, 8, 9 

Rumford, 285 

salmon, 15 

turnip, 12 

veal, 293 

wliite celery, 13 
Spanish fritters, 204 
Spinach juice for greening, 13 

to dress, 147 
Sponge-cake, 249 

pudding, 182 
Sponge jelly, 218 
Sportsman's broth, 10 
Sprats, pickled, 71 
Spruce beer, white, 263 
Steak, sauce for,- 46 
.Stew for the poor, 257 
Stock for fish soup, 15 
Strawberry cream, 226 

jelly, 231 
StrawbeiTy toasts, 204 
Strawberries preserved whole, 282 

water ice, 229 
Sugar biscuit, 249 

for ice, to clarify, 229 

to clarify for preserving, 
267 
Sunday pudding, 184 



334 



INDEX. 



Sweefbreads, roast, 121 
Syrup, black currant, 277 
Seville orange, 274 

Tapioca pudding, 176 
poor man's, 176 
Tarragon sauce, 45 
vinegar, 31 
Tart crust to cover a disli, 211 

custard, 212 

orange, 213 

raspberry, a la creme, 213 
Tea, green, ice-cream, 232 
Teal sauce, 41 
Tench, boiled, 62 

stewed, 62 
Tedwortb Albert pudding, 182 
Tendons de veau a la ravigote, 

116 
Timbales of eggs au jus de perdrix, 

163 
Toast and water, 299 
Toasts, 204 

strawberry, 32 

pine-apple, 32 
Tomato ketcbup, 32 

sauce, 39 

to keep, 39 

Spanish receipt, 39 
Tomatoes, 152 

au jus, 152 

farcies, 152 

stewed, 152 
Tournee sauce, 35 
Tripe a la Lyonnaise, 124 

gratin of, 124 

sauce a la, 46 

stewed, 124 
Trout, potted, 77 

stewed, 62 
Truffle sauce, 38 
Ti'ufiies au vin de champagne, 155 

maigre, 155 

tod ress, 155 
Turbot, good Avay to dress, 59 

sauce for, 53 
Turkey aux truffles, 99 

fillets, 101 

legs, 99 



Turkey rutie parfaite, 99 
Turnip soup, 12 
Tm-nips, glace au sucre, 137 
mashed, 137 

Veal, blanquette of, alaPaysanne, 

115 
Veal broth, 288 

cake (cold), 115 

cold, to dress, 96 

cutlets, 116 

sauce for, 46 

forcemeat, 127 

gravy, 33 

kidneys, 172 

pie, 117 

and rice soup, 8 

sausages, 126 

soup or jelly, 293 

tendons a la ravigote, 116 
Vegetable marrow, 148 
Vegetables, chartreuse of, 139 

macedoine of, 159 
Veloute sauce, 35 
Velvet cream, 228 
Venison, hashed, 91 

sauce, 48 
Vermicelli pudding, 179 
Vinegar for salads, 31 

raspberry, 261 
"Volage" sauce, 30 

Water-cresses stewed, Cornish re- 
ceipt, 147 
Water souclie, 60 
Weak digestion, for a, 304 

cordial for the, 304 
Whigs, 240 
Whitebait, fried, 63 
Whitings a la prevoyante, 55 

a ritalienne, 55, 66 

as in Scotland, 56 

fried fillets of, 56 

in sauce, 56 
White puddings, 125 
White sauce for chicken, veal, or 

vegetable, 36 
Wine, currant, 260 

ginger, 260 



INDEX. 



335 



Wine, green gooseberry, 261 

muUed, 259 

sauce, 209 

white, whey, 302 
Woodcock salmi, 104 
Wynne's, Sir Watkin, pudding, 
]83 



Yeast, an excellent, 235 
to clarify, 236 
Yorkshire method of mal:- 
ing, 235 
Yorkshire cakes, 248 
pudding, 181 

ZWEIBACH, 207 



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To be followed by other Papers. 



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